
Class /. 


cy^^i- ■ 


-^1 


Book 
GopvTightl' 


jG'/ 


5 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



PRACTICAL 
PATTERN MAKING 



A PRACTICAL WORK ON 

The Art of Making Patterns, Written by a Pattern-Maker 
with Thirty Years' Experience. Contains Information on 
Pattern-Making and Pattern-Makers in General, also a 
Detailed Description of the Necessary Materials and How 
to Use Them. Then the Tools, both Hand Tools and 
Machine Tools, with Special Chapters on the Lathe, the 
Band Saw and the Circular Saw, with Many Examples of 
Work Which May Be Done on These Machines. 
A Complete Section of Illustrated Examples of Pattern- 
Work in Wood, with Many Pages of Metal Pattern Work, 
Gating and Plate Work, both Vibrator and Stripping Plates, 
are Shown. Specific Instructions for Plaster Work are 
Given. And Finally, the Cost, Marking and Record of 
Patterns are Explained and Illustrated. 

By F. W. barrows 



SECOND ^^^^^ REVISED e^ 

EDITION ^.i^^^^^fc^ ENLARGED 




Fully Illustrated by Ettgravings made front Special Drawings 
for this Work by the A uthor 



NEW YORK 

The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 

132 NASSAU STREET 
1913 






Copyrighted 191 3 and 1906 

BY 

The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 



I3-:^^66J 



/^ 



/<..-t; 



©CI,A357958 



PREFACE. 

In presenting this new edition of Practical Pattern- 
making, we have endeavored to make the book more 
attractive and interesting by the addition of new ma- 
terial at places which seemed somewhat incomplete. 
The substitution of this new text for such part of the 
old volume as, in our opinion, was of less interest to the 
patternmaker, improves the general tone, and makes 
the entire book more useful and instructive to the trade. 

The specific examples, which could easily be increased 
in number, there being no lack of material, if the size 
of the work did not restrict their number to the allotted 
space, have been selected with the purpose of making 
the ones given of as great scope as possible, that they 
may be of wider appHcation; thus making this part 
cover a larger field of pattern work. 

All technical books must necessarily be only a more 
or less incomplete record of results attained by the efforts 
of the individual in the line of work or study to which 
the book is devoted. It is obviously impossible to make 
any such record entirely complete in a single volume; 
and in selecting the material for a book of this kind, 
much that is desirable must be discarded, retaining only 
the best, or that which seems, in the judgment of the 
author, to be of the greatest benefit to the average trades- 
man. 

If the inteUigent reader, making due allowance for 

9 



lo PREFACE. 

lack of space, finds that this book seems to cover the 
field of patternmaking thoroughly, giving satisfaction to 
those seeking information, and interesting those who are 
willing, or pleased, to learn from the experience of others, 
then we shall feel that our time has not been wasted in 
useless effort. 

Many of the subjects illustrated and discussed in this 
treatise originally appeared in the columns of the 
"American Machinist," others were published in ''The 
Patternmaker." And in ''Wood Craft," and "Cast- 
ings," the worthy successors to "The Patternmaker," 
appeared the new material used to make this edition 
more presentable. To these publications we are in- 
debted for the courtesy extended. 

Firm in the beHef that this revised edition will find 
favor in the eyes of my fellow craftsmen, I am, 

Yours very truly. 

F. W. Barrows. 



CONTENTS. 



PART FIRST. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Patternmakers and Patternmaking 15 

II. How Some Folks Make Patterns, 20 

III. Some Methods, . 24 

IV. Patternmakers, 27 



PART SECOND. 

MATERIAL AND TOOLS. 

I. Lumber, 31 

II. Varnish, 35 

III. Miscellaneous Materials, 39 

IV. The Bench and Its Attachments, 43 

V. Hand Tools, 47 

VI. Bench Work, . . • 51 

VII. Machine Tools for Patternmakers, 53 

VIII. The Band-saw, 56 

IX. The Circular Saw, 62 

X. The Lathe, 80 

XI. Fillets, 96 

XII. Stavework, 99 

XIII. Cant or Segment Work, 106 

IZ 



12 CONTENTS. 

PART THIRD. 

SOME EXAMPLES OF WOOD PATTERNS. 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Patterns for Belt Pulleys, 113 

II. Patterns for Cable Pulleys, ........ 120 

III. Making Patterns for Chain Wheels, 130 

IV. Patterns for Steam Cylinders, 139 

V. One Way of Making a Crosshead, 153 

VI. Making Gear Patterns, 158 

VII. Propeller Wheels 176 

VIII. Patterns for Screws, 189 

IX. Traction Wheels for Farm Engines, 205 

X. Globe-valve Patterns, 208 

XI. An Example in Projection, 225 

PART FOURTH. 

METAL PATTERNS. 

I. Common Practice, 233 

II. Some Patterns, 235 

. III. A Stripping-plate Job, 250 

IV. A Vibrator-plate Pattern, 256 

V. The Evolution of the Globe Valve Core-box, . .261 
VI. Multiple Core-boxes, 284 

PART FIFTH. 

COST, CARE, AND INVENTORY. 

I. Cost of Patterns, 309 

II. The Marking and Record of Patterns, 315 

III. Pattern Accounts 325 



PART FIRST. 
INTRODUCTORY. 



PATTERNMAKERS AND PATTERN- 
MAKING. 



CHAPTER I. 

PATTERNMAKERS AND PATTERNMAKING. 

If there should be as much time and skill devoted to the 
search for the original patternmaker as has been displayed 
in the search for ancestors who may be exhibited without 
detriment to our present social and moral standing, it 
would perhaps be found that he was known among his 
neighbors as the best man to build that new house for the 
mayor, or the sty for Farmer Jones' pigs, and, in fact, any- 
thing wanted, which was constructed principally of wood. 

Perhaps it was a plough which first demanded the services 
of a patternmaker, and as the plough had always been made 
of wood and constructed by the party mentioned above, 
what more natural than to employ the same capable indi- 
vidual to construct the desired pattern ? Or, what is still 
more probable, that this same talented man, whose many 
accomplishments have been handed down through genera- 
tions to the present skilful members of the trade, originated 
the pattern idea and used one of his own wooden mould- 
boards for the first pattern. Some of the castings made 
to-day look as if the original pattern were still in use. 

IS 



i6 PATTERNMAKING. 

Later, as the wood-workers became divided into classes, 
each individual following that particular branch which 
liking or necessity dictated, it seems to me most probable 
that each branch would be called upon to construct such 
patterns as might be needed for castings used in their line 
of business. With the demand for castings constantly in- 
creasing, the moulder commenced to be heard, and the 
sound of his voice has never since ceased. 

Men began to see that, whatever the casting, there were 
certain rules to be followed in the construction thereof: it 
must have draught, and the shrinkage of the casting must 
be allowed for. Even at the present day, if these simple 
rules are transgressed, it causes the moulder to grieve and 
the man who pays to swear. 

As you couldn't reasonably expect every wood-worker 
to know about these little things, the pattern work would 
naturally come to such as had shown their ability to con- 
struct useable patterns; this man would soon have work 
enough to keep him busy on patterns alone, and as a con- 
sequence the patterns would improve. 

As the struggle to produce more castings grew intense 
and it became necessary to have better castings, and more 
of them, the wood patterns were not substantial enough, 
or perhaps the wood pattern was used up, and some genius 
hit upon the happy idea of using one or more of the cast- 
ings already made for patterns. The next step was that 
the moulder, who is ever watchful of the master's interests 
when it happens also to be his own, suggested the gating 
of the patterns, having noticed the castings as he dumped 
the mould, with their runners tying them all together, mak- 
ing one pattern of the flask full. This shifted a portion of 



PATTERNMAKERS AND PATTERNMAKING. 17 

his own work upon the patternmaker. To be sure, he got 
better castings and more of them, but this was entirely the 
result of the patternmaker's efforts. 

Still the demand for more and better castings at lower 
prices would not be satisfied. As a result of the effort to 
supply this demand, we have now the moulding-machine, 
and a good many of them, which will do anything that the 
moulder can do and do it in a very superior manner, so the 
advertisements say. The moulding- machine lowered the 
cost, as the patterns are so arranged that less skill is re- 
quired of the moulder, thus making possible the employ- 
ment of cheaper help in the foundry, increasing the output 
and decreasing the cost of production. 

So we have advanced from the crude, inaccurate wood 
pattern, made by the wood- chopper of prehistoric days, to 
the highly finished metal patterns now required for the 
moulding-machine, and from the all-round individual of 
that time to the highly specialized patternmaker of to-day. 
The patterns that are constructed of wood, by the skilled 
members of the craft to-day, show evidence of good judg- 
ment in the selection and arrangement of the material, 
although there are some of us who are inclined to think 
that if the making of the wood were intrusted to us we 
could produce a very superior article in this line, and one 
which would be less subject to the influence of the weather. 
However, the man who constructs the pattern for some 
light, frail piece so that it gives good service and keeps its 
shape, is still entitled to some credit for so doing. 

The durability of the wood pattern depends greatly upon 
the wise selection of material, and by this I don't mean the 
kind of material, because this is usually dictated by the 



i8 PATTERNMAKING. 

firm, or by the foreman; but if the entire stock of lumber 
is Hmited to two boards, there is a choice between the two, 
and it is in making this choice that the expert shows his 
skill. Sometimes, it must be confessed, it seems as though 
each one of the two was a little poorer than the other. 

For large patterns or such as will be used but a few 
times there is probably nothing to be had better than white 
pine, while for small and medium-sized pieces, especially 
if they are to be much used, a harder wood is better. 
Many prefer cherry; for myself, I prefer mahogany, and 
for light, thin patterns would use what is known as Mexi- 
can wood. For short, thick forms, especially such as may 
be made almost completely in the lathe, Cuba wood is 
best. Whatever the material, it must be thoroughly sea- 
soned, and from old trees in preference to young timber, 
as young timber, while it is usually much harder, is also 
much more liable to spring and twist. 

In assembling the pieces which go to make up the com- 
plete pattern, glue is much used; here again experience 
counts, and even the boy has found that it is quite a knack 
to make glue joints that are really substantial. Wherever 
possible, glue joints should be nailed or strengthened with 
screws. Loose pieces are sometimes necessary on wood 
or metal patterns, but it is a good rule to make them as few 
as possible. They add to the cost and are often the cause 
of poor castings. 

Many shops use two colors of varnish, one for core 
prints and another for the body of the pattern. This is 
probably a good plan if not carried to extremes, as in the 
case of some regular stock pattern which is in use pretty 
much all the time. The moulder doesn't need to be con- 



PATTERNMAKERS AND PATTERNMAKING. 19 

tinually reminded that he must set a core in this mould, 
and the patternmaker can employ the time saved to much 
better advantage. 

After the first coat of shellac is the proper time to wax 
or putty a pattern. This operation often gives more satis- 
faction if the whole job can afterward be covered with 
black varnish, for black varnish, like charity, covers a 
multitude of sins. Putty will probably wear longer, but 
it isn't quite as nice to handle, and doesn't harden so 
quickly as wax, although when it has set it is much harder. 
Beeswax, unless it is pure, and put on hot, will not adhere 
to a wooden pattern. 

When we come to metal patterns, the master pattern, if 
one is required, is generally of wood, thus calling for the 
services of the woodworker, and the castings for gating are 
usually of brass; so the brass finisher, with his knowledge 
of soldering, is called upon to finish and gate the castings. 
Thus was the original metal patternmaker drawn from the 
ranks of the brass finishers. To-day the competent metal 
patternmaker is called upon to finish not only brass pat- 
terns, but also those made of cast-iron, aluminum, steel, 
and wrought-iron. He must also be familiar with the use 
of machine tools, the lathe, the planer, milling-machine, 
and drill press. So that the patternmaker of to-day may 
be said to have added to his previous knowledge of mechan- 
ical drawing, woodworking, moulding, and brass finishing, 
no small part of the machinist's trade. 



CHAPTER II. 

HOW SOME FOLKS MAKE PATTERNS. 

There are about as many different ideas in regard 
to the construction of any one pattern as there may be 
good ways of making the pattern. Where is the pattern- 
maker who, in looking over patterns he knew were made 
"outside," has not noticed that "they don't do their work 
as we do " ? This only shows that your way is not the only 
way, and very likely not the best way of doing the particu- 
lar job under inspection. 

Now, as a pattern is only a "means toward an end," 
which end is not always in the foundry, although a good 
many patterns are here brought to an early and untimely 
end, we should not consider the pattern of more importance 
than the end for which the pattern is made. This is 
sometimes the case with those who think that the moulder 
is simply a machine which, if supplied with any kind of a 
pattern, is bound to turn out a good casting. Moulders 
have some ideas in regard to moulding patterns which the 
patternmaker should respect; and if he would try to con- 
struct the pattern so that it would mould according to the 
moulder's ideas of right, I think that all hands would be 
better pleased with the result. The great idea is to get a 
nice casting, and where the patternmaker and moulder 
work in harmony this is usually accomplished. 

20 



HOW SOME FOLKS MAKE PATTERNS. 21 

The patternmaker certainly has the right to criticise his 
own work, and perhaps the work of any of his fellow- 
craftsmen; but let his criticisms stick to hard facts, and 
not be based on prejudice, as I am afraid is apt to be the 
case. I have noticed, and so have you, I presume, that 
when some outside pattern has found its way to our shop, 
how many faults we seem to see in it. Perhaps the whole 
gang will get after it in this style : There is a pattern which 
Overtheway & Co. have made, and it has been sent to our 
shop to mould, and has found its way to the patternmaker. 
If it is a new pattern, any of the help can see that it is a 
stranger as soon as they set eyes on it; then see how it 
will be criticised. Perhaps away down in our minds we 
can see that it is a neater-looking, better-constructed job 
than we ever made, or could make; still let us see if we 
can't find some fault in it. 

Yes, there it is — "See that short grain?" 

"How long do you suppose that will stand in the sand? 
They hadn't ought to have put in that short grain." 

There was really no way to avoid the short grain in this 
case, perhaps, but that makes no difference ; we set out to 
find some weak spot in this pattern, and we are bound to 
do it, and as long as no one has the courage to speak for 
Overtheway & Co., their reputation as first-class workmen 
will suffer in the judgment, or, more correctly, in the con- 
versation, of present company. 

"Here's another thing — a 2" core print that just fits the 
box. " 

"We always make the print a little larger because you 
know the core will swell a little in baking — at least, that 10" 
cylinder pattern I made, I left the core print a little full, and 



22 PATTERNMAKING. 

the moulder said it was all right, and of course a 2" print 
will swell the same in proportion to its size." 

Yes, that is the reason that none of your small work ever 
has the holes cored out in just the right spot. The core 
will always go to the top of the print and perhaps it will 
twist over one side a little. You have always laid the 
blame on the moulder's shoulders, when by a little experi- 
menting you would have found that a 2" core would, if 
the sand wasn't too rich, just fit the box after baking, and 
consequently a print ]ust the size of the box would be ]ust 
right for the core. But as we are bound to condemn this 
pattern, don't mention this. 

"Look at those fillets — just a little three-cornered piece 
which cuts off the angle of 90° but leaves two in its place 
of 135° each. This, any one (of the present company) can 
see is bad practice, because what is a fillet good for if it 
doesn't do away with angles ? " As for me, I would rather 
see this kind of a fillet, or corner, put in neatly (as in the 
present case) than to see some of the fillets that pretend to 
be a quarter circle, more or less, but are really no nearer 
the ideal fillet in shape than the present specimen. 

Now, see here, what is a fillet used for ? 

"To strengthen the casting or to prevent shrinkage in a 
place that would weaken the casting, or look bad, and it 
may be used to make the moulder happy, if you think he 
deserves it." 

Correct; and doesn't the present specimen fill all of 
these conditions ? There is really only one fault about it. 
It isn't a quarter circle, but see how much easier it can be 
made and put in than a regular fillet — no feather-edges to 
break off — and after it is in place there will be no feather- 



HOW SOME FOLKS MAKE PATTERNS. 23 

edges to roll up. In short, it is really better, so far as 
durability goes, and just as good in every other particular, 
except perhaps in regard to looks, and this, very likely, is 
only a cultivated taste like smoking, for instance. I pre- 
sume that the casting will be just as strong as though the 
fillets were all perfect arcs. 

''And now here is one more thing. See this chalk- 
mark, *2off '? That means two castings wanted from this 
pattern. See how cheaply we have sold ourselves ? Here 
is a pattern that we haven't been able to find any really 
serious fault in, even though our criticism was founded 
on prejudice, and was all on the supposition that this pat- 
tern was intended for a first-class job, and here is the proof 
that it was intended for two castings only. We shall have 
more respect for Overtheway's work after this." 

Now, be honest, and own up that this criticism, or 
rather this fault-finding, we have been indulging in, was 
nothing but prejudice. This is very apt to be the case 
with all criticism. We condemn others' ways of doing 
work only because they are different from our own, when 
in many cases our way is the one that would be condemned 
by a fair judge. 

If you wish to be at the head of your trade, strive to 
adopt all of the best ideas. If your own work won't bear 
comparison with Overtheway's, why, condemn your own 
and try to improve on their ways. 

If you are so short-sighted as to stick to your own way 
after you have found that it isn't the best way, or are so 
bigoted that you can't see any faults in your own work and 
be willing to acknowledge them, I am pretty sure that you 
will be left far behind in the race. 



CHAPTER in. 

SOME METHODS. 

An old patternmaker gives a method of obtaining the 
weight of irregular-shaped castings by immersing the pat- 
tern in water, measuring the displaced volume of water, 
and multiplying the result, in cubic inches, by .26, the 
weight in pounds of one cu. in. of iron. 

Another thinks that it would be simpler to weigh the 
displaced water, or, better yet,, to weigh the pattern itself. 
But as the material of which the pattern is made varies so 
much in weight, the result would be very uncertain. Still, 
as the weight of water is practically constant, by weighing 
the displaced water he would probably obtain the desired 
end as accurately as by the measurement of displaced 
water, and more especially as an error in measurement 
would, in the final result, become 7.21 times greater than 
an error in weight. 

I should consider that both gentlemen were advocating 
very bad practice when they suggest immersing wooden 
patterns in water, and would advise weighing the pattern, 
as the result would, in either of the three methods, be only 
an approximation. The difficulty arising from the vary- 
ing weight of wood could be lessened by cutting a small 
cubical block from the same plank used to make pattern; 
this piece to contain 3.85 cubic inches. Then the weight 

24 



SOME METHODS. 25 

of pattern divided by the weight of this block gives the 
weight in pounds for a solid casting from the pattern. 

I find many mechanics using the sense of f eehng in mak- 
ing fine measurements, the articles employed being usually 
a steel scale and a scriber or the point of a knife. In using 
a pair of dividers, their setting may be tested by placing 
one point in a line on the scale, using it as a centre, the 
dividers being held nearly parallel with the flat side of 
scale, the legs of the tool as nearly parallel with the Hnes 
as possible; then if the other leg is slowly brought down 
to the required line, the spring, or lack of spring, noted by 
the sense of feeling, as the other point enters the required 
line, will show whether they are correctly adjusted. There 
are some things that we can see better with our fingers than 
with our eyes. 

About scales, when the drawing comes into the pattern 
shop marked "Use dimensions only," and drawn to any 
scale whatever, there are usually many points which will 
have to be scaled by the patternmaker, and if the scale 
of the drawing is such as can be measured by the ordinary 
steel rule it saves much arithmetic and — talk. 

Imagine the patternmaker getting a drawing marked 
"|In. = I In." and then having to figure out all of his 
measurements to this scale. The fact that this scale 
made the drawing fit the standard size sheet doesn't 
seem to me of enough importance to warrant the risk of 
condemning the patternmaker to everlasting punishment 
by its use. 

An old friend of mine was in the habit of classing the 
graduates of our technical schools, or such of them as were 
privileged to add M.E. to the name given them by their 



26 PATTERNMAKING. 

parents, as ''pyrotechnic" engineers, and I sometimes 
think that his title wasn't so far off after all, for the "pyro- 
technic" engineer might be expected to produce, as he 
sometimes does, "pyrotechnics," as witness the language 
of the patternmaker in the case cited. 

The patternmaker, if he is so inclined, may, by consul- 
tation with the draughtsman or with the designer, assist 
in eliminating some faults of construction as regards the 
pattern or the casting; and no fair minded, conscientious 
draughtsman will take offense at honest criticism of this 
kind. 



CHAPTER IV. 

PATTERNMAKERS. 

Patternmakers may be considered as toolmakers for 
the foundry, and as the so-called toolmaker needs to under- 
stand the machinist's art in all of its details, so the pattern- 
maker, to be of any real use, must understand the moulder's 
trade, in order to make the special tools or patterns with- 
out which no castings could be produced. He should not 
only be competent to produce patterns for staple goods, 
but must continually be making new articles, or old ones 
in a new form. 

To this end he must be able to read mechanical draw- 
ings, and he is, in fact, constantly expected to read so- 
called drawings which are far from being mechanical and 
which, like Johnny's picture of the cow, would be un- 
recognizable without the title, which title is perhaps the 
only clew to the meaning of the drawing. 

Behold, now, the patternmaker in the r61e of Sherlock 
Holmes ; the draughtsman (?) may have as crude an idea of 
the article delineated as the boy had of the horse, which he 
described as an animal with a tail and four legs, one at each 
corner; still, if S. H. is in any sense worthy of the name of 
patternmaker, he will be able to follow the " clew" through 
the drawing, and point out the tail, and each of the four 
legs, and then to join them all together in a more or less 
complete and artistic whole. 

27 



28 PATTERNMAKING. 

Speaking of drawings, I am reminded of an old acquaint- 
ance who consented to give a young friend instructions in 
mechanical drawing, and did so, the complete course in 
one lesson, by instructing the pupil in the following words : 
''Make all the lines you can see, full lines, and those which 
you can't see, broken lines. That's all there is to it." 

After absorbing all of the information given by the draw- 
ing, the patternmaker usually makes a full-size lay-out of 
the piece to be made. He must now study the shape of 
the piece, and plan to so construct his pattern that the re- 
sulting piece of work will be strong and serviceable, and 
enough like the drawing that it will not, like Johnny's cow, 
require to have the name printed on in order that it may 
be recognized by its creator — the pattern, not the cow. 

This faculty of being able to see things before they exist — 
and, by the way, this is different from the faculty for see- 
ing imaginary things, which may be acquired by frequent 
internal applications of the contents of the alcohol jug — 
this faculty is, I say, one of the necessary qualifications of 
a good patternmaker. 

Without this skill, or foresight, the pattern becomes a 
freak job, and the only way to save it from the scrap-pile 
is to make up the bad spots with beeswax and give it a 
heavy coat of black varnish. 



PART SECOND. 
MATERIALS AND TOOLS. 



CHAPTER I. 

LUMBER. 

For the general line of pattern work there is probably 
no better material to be found than white pine. White 
pine is light, easily worked, takes glue and varnish nicely, 
and is fairly durable. As there are many patterns made 
for present use only, these points cannot be overlooked, 
else the labor cost gets too high. 

When I say that white pine is easily worked, I mean that 
it not only offers little resistance to cutting tools, but that 
it is not "hard on tools." A nicely seasoned piece of old 
timber can be sliced off by a sharp chisel or gouge with a 
faciHty only to be equalled in cutting whitewood timber. 
The tool, when cutting pine, does not dull very quickly, 
which makes it a pleasure to work this timber. 

Whitewood has the serious objection of being too suscep- 
tible to atmospheric changes. It also seems to be always 
shrinking; in short, one of the earlier settlers in Ohio 
said that there was a great deal of whitewood timber in 
that country; he himself had cut a tree which squared 24" 
for twenty feet in length. This log he had sawed into 
planks and used for a floor in a 20 x 30 building. It took 
just fifteen planks to cover the floor, "but the plaguey stuff 
shrunk so fast that I had to put in one new plank each year, 
and in fifteen years I had an entire new floor." 

Shrinkage and swelling of timber is caused by atmos- 

31 



32 PATTERNMAKING. 

pheric changes; temperature and moisture, or lack of 
moisture, both having some effect. Increase of tempera- 
ture, without a corresponding increase of humidity, will 
always cause shrinkage, while an increase of moisture 
invariably causes an increase in the size of the piece of 
timber under consideration, the expansion being greatest 
in a radial direction — this radial direction referring to 
the position of the plank in the log, which can be easily 
determined by examination of the cross section. As all 
timber grows in concentric layers, it is evident that a radial 
line (of the tree) must always be at right angles with these 
layers. 

Again, as all timber is porous, and as these pores, or 
pipes, run lengthwise of the log, and in the green, living 
tree are filled with liquid, the evaporation of which seasons 
or dries the timber, causing at the same time shrinkage, it 
is evident that the fluid near the ends of the log will evapo- 
rate fastest, and thus the ends will season, or shrink, first, 
the shrinkage strain often causing timber, both logs and 
planks, to crack at the ends. 

Moral : Don't put green or water-soaked lumber in the 
drying-room. 

Temperature, and perhaps moisture, causes a change in 
the length of timber; higher temperature causing expan- 
sion, which is partly offset by the changes due to increased 
evaporation of the contained moisture. In the case of 
"cross-grained" timber, it is evident that the same condi- 
tions which affect the width of a board will, in a lesser 
degree, affect its length. 

This question of shrinkage — or, more correctly, the neg- 
lect of it — has ruined many an otherwise good job. At 



LUMBER. 33 

its best, wood is very sensitive to moisture and should not 
be exposed to its influence. 

In mahogany we have a timber which, having a hard, 
dense surface, is invaluable for small, fragile patterns or 
for patterns which are in constant use. It is more difficult 
to work than pine, and doesn't take varnish and glue so 
readily, but it will stand lots of abuse. 

In selecting mahogany for patterns, use only the straight- 
grained timber. Mexican or Cuba wood is best, what is 
known as baywood being but little, if any, better than pine. 

Mahogany, being very close-grained, is not so susceptible 
to atmospheric changes as pine. This statement is per- 
haps unnecessary, as any close-grained timber is proof 
against slight changes in temperature and humidity; be- 
cause the term "close-grained" means small pores, and 
we all know that it is hard to force moisture through small 
holes, with only the slight variations in pressure caused 
by atmospheric changes. Therefore, let us use some kind 
of close-grained timber for such patterns as are expected 
to bear hard usage. And for the same reason that the old 
farmer ''didn't care what color the new school-house was 
painted, so long as it was red," let us use mahogany; you 
can't find any better (color) timber. 

Cherry has proved itself of value in making durable pat- 
terns ; in fact, many (otherwise) good patternmakers prefer 
it to mahogany, and it is cheaper. It is hard, but not so 
nearly immune to the influence of temperature and humid- 
ity as mahogany. 

On the whole, cherry is very good pattern material, 
the item of price, with its other good points, making it a 
strong rival of mahogany. One very important point in 
3 



34 PATTERNMAKING. 

cherry is this : Don't use young timber or you will suffer 
remorse. 

Maple and birch are both growing in favor, especially 
for lathe work. They take a good, smooth finish, and if 
kept well varnished will make a good fight against the ills 
to which all patterns are subjected. 

Until we patternmakers are able to get some material 
which is less sensitive to atmospheric changes than wood, 
we must go on making patterns which strive to become 
barometers; and we must endeavor to overcome this 
"hereditary" tendency by the exercise of such judgment 
as we may be endowed with and be permitted (if it don't 
cost the "old man" too much) to use. 



CHAPTER II. 



VARNISH. 



Patternmakers use varnish to fill the pores of wood 
patterns and thus make them more or less impervious to 
moisture. Any old varnish will do this, but when it is 
also expected that the varnish will give a smooth, hard 
surface, we must be careful in the selection of our varnish. 
Another vital point is that it must dry quickly. Thus our 
choice is narrowed down until, in place of being able to use 
any varnish, we are really restricted to the one kind — 
shellac varnish. 

There have been placed on the market many substitutes 
for shellac varnish, most of them "just as good," and some 
of them a great deal better, the advertisements say, than 
shellac. This alleged improvement is usually in the price 
alone, and the lower the price the greater the improvement, 
as the agent (who knows) will tell you. When you can buy 
shellac varnish for less than the price of grain alcohol, you 
may be sure of getting your money's worth — in quantity, if 
not in quality. 

There is nothing to be had quite as good as shellac cut 
with grain alcohol. I have tried nearly everything that 
has been put on the market for the last twenty years, and 
have gone back to the real gum and grain alcohol, mixing 
it myself, and getting results that are entirely satisfactory. 

Use a glass, or glazed earthenware jar, to prepare the 

35 



36 PATTERNMAKING. 

shellac. Put in the required amount of gum, and pour in 
sufficient grain alcohol to cover the gum, and you will find 
that the resulting mixture will be about right for general 
use — a little too heavy for fine, light work, which is easily 
corrected by the addition of a little more alcohol, and 
heavy enough for large surfaces. 

Shellac varnish should be fresh and always kept in a 
glazed vessel. Don't use oxalic acid to clear a pot of old 
varnish, so old that it won't dry hard. You had better 
empty your can into the garbage barrel and fill up with 
varnish so fresh that it will not need the oxalic acid to 
make a respectable-looking job. In short, you can add 
nothing to the varnish, made as above, which will im- 
prove it. 

The advantage in price induces many firms to use some 
one of the many grades of wood alcohol now to be had, and 
also the prices and quality are so graded that almost every- 
body can satisfy the patternmaker, the moulder, and their 
own conscience, if they don't expect too much for their 
money and have gotten the patternmakers and moulders 
thoroughly subdued. The saving in price will make a 
good showing on the books of the purchasing agent, but 
will cause the moulder's hair to turn gray, and make the 
patternmaker wish that he had been born Depfeller, with 
a Rockbilt conscience. 

There are many patterns made for a single casting only 
for which some of the cheaper varnishes are, perhaps, good 
enough; still, the apparent saving in price is always re- 
duced by the extra labor cost of applying and rubbing 
down. This increased labor cost will follow the pattern 
all through its usefulness; moulders will shun its society, 



VARNISH. 37 

and, if the varnish is mixed with wood alcohol, the pattern- 
maker will suffer, for it is well known that all wood pattern- 
makers subsist almost entirely upon the alcohol furnished 
by the firm to dilute the varnish, and they dare not drink 
pyroxylic spirit. 

While the shellac varnish in its natural color gives the 
best of results, it is sometimes thought advisable to color 
it. Black, the most common color, is produced by the 
addition of lampblack; red is best made by the use of 
Chinese vermilion, and blue of an indifferent quality 
may be produced with Prussian blue. It is unnecessary 
to state that all of the coloring matter used should be dry 
and very finely pulverized. 

In mixing colored varnish, add the coloring matter to a 
small quantity of varnish and mix thoroughly to a smooth 
paste, then add varnish, and alcohol if necessary, until the 
mixture is of the consistency necessary to spread and cover 
nicely. It requires some experience to produce both color 
and gloss, which are always the ocular proof of a good 
surface. 

In spreading shellac varnish, don't think that you can 
produce a good surface on a rough pattern by covering it 
with two or three coats of varnish. You will find that the 
varnish makes the unevenness of the original surface more 
and more apparent, and that the only way to produce that 
flat, glossy surface dear to the heart of every real pat- 
ternmaker is to first make the surface of the pattern flat, 
and then produce the gloss by the judicious use of the shel- 
lac, alternating with light doses of sandpaper. 

In the case of hollow patterns and core-boxes, it is a 
good plan to cover the entire surface, both inside and out- 



38 PATTERNMAKING. 

side, with shellac. If there is time, the inside of pattern 
and the outside of core-box might have one or two coats 
of good oil paint, which will wear longer than shellac, but, 
unfortunately, does not dry quickly; neither will it pro- 
duce the glossy surface given by shellac. 



CHAPTER III. 

MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS. 

Having considered the two principal elements of all 
patterns — lumber and varnish — let us turn our attention 
to the other necessary materials. Of these, glue is probably 
the most important. There are many kinds of good glue 
in the market suitable for pattern work. For a large shop, 
employing many patternmakers, where there is likely to 
be some one specially appointed to the preparation and 
care of all of the glue pots, any form of glue, of good quality, 
will probably give satisfaction, as the personal responsibil- 
ity of the glue-maker will eliminate the two most common 
defects : burned glue, and sour, or rotten, glue. 

For the small shop, or the shop which uses but little 
glue, I would recommend the pulverized form, because it 
can be very quickly prepared for use, thus making it possi- 
ble to always have sweet, strong glue ready for any job. 

Don't put anything on the joints that will prevent the 
glue jrom soaking into the pores of the wood. 

If you wish to make joints that will hold strongly, they 
should be nicely fitted; don't expect glue to hold two 
pieces together unless they are actually in contact. While 
it is possible to fill up large cavities between the pieces to 
be joined (if you have enough glue), when the glue dries it 
will ether distort the pattern by drawing the parts closer 
together, or, failing to do this, will give way through the 

39 



40 PATTERNMAKING. 

cavity which was filled with liquid glue, leaving the joints 
disconnected except at such points as were actually in con- 
tact before the glue was applied. 

As to the consistency of glue when apphed, I would re- 
mind you that the holding property depends entirely upon 
the ability of the glue to enter the pores of the wood, or 
other material. Thus glue mixed very thick, which might 
take a very strong hold on material with large pores, like 
white pine, would be almost useless for wood having a dense 
surface, like mahogany or cherry, as the glue would " chill* ' 
before ** taking hold," which means that it would not be 
absorbed into the pores of the wood. This can be partly 
remedied by heat, as the heat liquefies the glue, giving more 
time for absorption. 

After absorption, the strength of the joint depends upon 
the quahty of the glue, not upon the quantity used; for 
while it is best to use plenty of glue, it will readily be seen 
that when the joint is forced together, bringing the sur- 
faces actually into contact, there can be left only such an 
amount as has entered into the pores of the wood. 

Beeswax is another very necessary material in pattern 
work, as it has qualities which render it almost indispensa- 
ble. It is very easily worked and hardens almost imme- 
diately. It may be used in the pure state and worked cold, 
although it had better be worked hot, or at least warm. 
If it is thought desirable to have a harder material, melt 
beeswax and resin together, adding a little beef tallow to 
prevent the mixture from sticking to the slicking tools. 

Beeswax which has been adulterated with tallow or 
paraffin wax is poor stuff for pattern work, as it does not 
adhere to the wood readily. 



MISCELLANEOUS MATERIALS. 41 

A mixture of beeswax and tallow is sometimes applied 
to the surface of iron patterns, the patterns being first made 
hot enough to melt the mixture; but as iron has a surface 
which, if kept clean and free from rust, is good enough for 
patterns, I have found that bayberry tallow alone, applied 
to a hot pattern, answers the purpose just as well, and is 
much easier to use. 

Painter's putty is often used to fill nail holes and for 
fillets. If given sufficient time to dry thoroughly it adheres 
strongly to both wood and metal, and were it not for the 
time required it would easily force beeswax entirely out of 
use on wood patterns. 

Paraffin wax has always been used for finishing metal 
patterns and core boxes. As it stands the application of 
water I use it alone for core-boxes, which require frequent 
washings. It is essential that the boxes, after being 
treated with the paraffin, should be thoroughly wiped out, 
else a gummy substance is left upon the surface which will 
cause the core-maker to use language and lose time and 
temper. 

Paraffin is also used to treat wood which is to be used 
in mounting patterns for, or on, moulding-machines. The 
wood, after treatment, being impervious to moisture, 
makes what is otherwise an almost impossible material 
very useful for this purpose. 

A sheet-iron tank large enough entirely to immerse the 
pieces to be treated, and containing a steam coil to melt 
the wax and keep the temperature as high as is possible 
without danger of firing the wax, will be necessary for the 
process. White pine will require from ten to twenty-four 
hours to become thoroughly impregnated, which condition 



42 PATTERNMAKING. 

may be known by the sinking of the piece in the liquid wax. 
Pine absorbs from forty to sixty per cent of its own weight 
of paraffin. 

Sandpaper, used intelHgently, is a very necessary tool ( ?) 
to the patternmaker. If used before edged tools, it is 
rather a hindrance than a help. It requires quite a little 
care and some skill in using this tool to produce good 
results, said good results being improvement of surface 
while preserving the necessary angles and high places on 
the pattern. 

In some cases this final improvement, or grading, of the 
surface is delayed until one or two coats of varnish have 
been applied. This method, while it gives the pattern a 
piebald appearance, which some might think an improve- 
ment, never increases its usefulness. 

After varnishing, don't sandpaper until the varnish has 
thoroughly dried, and then only enough to cut off the 
raised " grain " of the wood. After the first coat of varnish 
and rubbing down, use no new, sharp sandpaper. (This 
is the only time and place where a dull tool is better than 
a sharp one.) If you have no partly-used-up sandpaper, 
dull some by rubbing two pieces together and then putting 
a few drops of oil on its surface or giving it a rub over 
your lump of wax. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE BENCH AND ITS ATTACHMENTS. 

The bench is a very important part of the pattern-shop 
equipment, as there must always be some bench work in 
making wood patterns. The size, style, and position of 
the bench must be in accordance with the character of the 
work to be done. 

The length, for nearly all classes of work, may be limited 
to eight feet, especially if the patternmaker has free access 
to both ends of his bench without interfering with his 
neighbors. 

The height cannot be arbitrarily fixed, as each man can 
best determine his individual needs in this respect, and, 
within limits, he should always be allowed to do this. 

The width of top surface should be from 28'' to 32"; too 
great width is a common mistake, and while it furnishes 
storage room for nails, screws, and various other small 
accessories, it is always a mistake. The bench surface is 
not profitably used for storage purposes, and the presence 
of unnecessary articles gives an untidy appearance which 
it is well to avoid. 

This too prevalent accumulation of unnecessary articles, 
such as bits of wood, broken packages of screws and nails, 
discarded parts of patterns, and many other things which 
are often entirely useless even to the one who has so care- 

43 



44 PATTERNMAKING. 

fully hoarded them, favors the accumulation of the pattern- 
maker's enemy, dust. 

We patternmakers are, perhaps, more prone to the 
hoarding habit than other tradesmen, as is witnessed by 
the joy with which we hail the coming of the new hand 
with his large, fat tool-chest, which promises many new 
and curious tools, often more curious than useful. The 
fortunate (?) possessor of a large collection of "curios" 
is constantly finding new things in his collection — new be- 
cause he had forgotten their presence, which fact will show 
how very useful he has found them. 

I am pleased to note the trend toward smaller and more 
compact tool-chests or closets. There being no room for 
articles which are curious only, they are not present to 
occupy valuable space, accumulate dirt, and create untidy 
habits. 

The front of top surface of bench should be from two 
to three inches thick and about sixteen inches wide, and 
this front plank should be somewhat higher than the re- 
maining surface in order that it may be surfaced off as 
often as may be found necessary to preserve the flat, true 
surface so essential for many portions of the work. 

To many patternmakers drawers under the bench are 
useful, and help not only the progress of the work by offer- 
ing a convenient and accessible storage for such articles as 
wax, nails, sandpaper, and other necessary materials, but 
they also protect these articles from dust (if they are kept 
closed), and thus tend toward general tidiness. 

There is a class of patternmakers to whom drawer space 
means only a place for the reception of such articles as they 
have no further use for; and for these men they usually 



THE BENCH AND ITS ATTACHMENTS. 45 

contain a collection of broken and worn-out tools, dirty 
and discarded aprons, spoiled parts of patterns, and occa- 
sionally an article of some value which has been mislaid. 

The bench should be provided with a good bench-hook, 
adjustable as to height and capable of being forced down 
even with the surface of the bench. The holding edges 
should be kept smooth, reasonably sharp, and always at 
the extreme top. To accomplish this last desirable effect, 
the hook may be fitted with its top inclined slightly toward 
the upper end of bench. This leaves the rear edge, which 
is to do the holding, higher than any other portion of the 
top. 

Another very necessary part of the patternmaker's bench 
is the vise. Many of the vises offered to the patternmaker 
are too small and flimsy to be of any real use. Don't be 
afraid of a large vise, one with big, flat jaws that may be 
opened sixteen inches or more. This vise will hold small 
pieces just as surely and carefully as the small vise, but the 
small vise cannot be made to successfully hold large, heavy 
pieces. 

If the vise has a swivel jaw so much the better, as the 
same adjustment which renders the vise capable of grip- 
ping tapered pieces may be used to give the vise a firm hold 
of parallel stock or work which from its shape can only be 
entered into one end of the vise. 

A table about four feet long, two feet wide, and from 
twenty-six to thirty inches high is a very useful adjunct to 
the bench for most classes of work, affording the pattern- 
maker a convenient surface on which to assemble the parts 
of his pattern, thus keeping the bench clear for working out 
the parts. 



46 PATTERNMAKING. 

And finally, but not lastly, there should be provided a 
stool for each man. This, I am sorry to say, is not always 
considered essential or even advisable. The conscientious 
workman would probably stand all day in a shop that 
didn't furnish stools, while the ^'soldier" would be found 
seated upon his chest, or even upon the bench itself, with- 
out, perhaps, a word of disapproval from the foreman. 
This, however, proves nothing, as all patternmakers are 
not ''soldiers," nor would they be if provided with suitable 
stools. 



CHAPTER V. 

HAND TOOLS. 

This portion of the patternmaker's outfit is less numer- 
ous and less bulky than in the past, when a first-class 
patternmaker required one or two tool- chests about the 
size of the modern seaside cottage to hold his belongings. 
In those days the firm furnished nothing but the bare 
materials (sometimes very little of them), and no machine 
tools; the patternmaker was even expected to furnish his 
own hand-screws, or get along without them. 

The old-fashioned hand tools, with the wooden stocks, 
are, in the modern, up-to-date shop, replaced in a great 
measure by the machine tools, with their many and ingen- 
ious attachments; and such hand tools as are still found 
necessary are principally of metal, thus doing away to a 
great extent with the wood stocks and frames, which re- 
quired a great deal of care and were, at their best, unrelia- 
ble where great accuracy and precision were called for. 

The hand tools of to-day also differ in kind, there being 
a greater demand for, and consequently a greater variety 
of, tools for measuring, laying out, and testing the various 
parts of the work ; the actual removal of the surplus stock 
being accomplished by machines that are competent to 
perform, expeditiously and with accuracy, many opera- 
tions which in the past could only have been intrusted to, 

47 



48 PATTERNMAKING. 

or attempted by, the most skilful of workmen, and at the 
expense of much time and individual energy. 

The caring for bench-planes to-day, with their accurate 
metal stocks and thin steel cutters, requires but a fraction 
of the time formerly used in keeping the old-style wooden- 
stock plane, with its heavy steel-faced ''iron," in good 
condition. 

The patternmaker of to-day may procure, at small cost, 
cutting tools of a quality formerly unobtainable, or, at best, 
only to be obtained at a price which was far beyond the 
means of the average workman. 

The skill of some men in the use of edged tools seems, 
to such of us as always find difficulty in making these tools 
do efficient work, to be an inherent quality of the individual, 
something not to be attained by mere application. This 
is largely a wrong conclusion, and it is usually found that 
the apparently greater skill of this much-envied individual 
is really the result of using sharp tools, supplemented by 
care in the selection and placing of the pieces of wood used 
in building up the pattern, which he finally cuts and carves 
into shape with such seeming ease. Sharp tools will not 
cure awkwardness, but they will always make it less 
apparent. 

In order to have sharp tools, the first requisite is a good 
oil-stone, one that will quickly put a smooth, keen edge on 
a tool. Here, again, the condition in which this indis- 
pensable article is kept may be such as to seriously affect 
its usefulness, a poor stone, well kept, giving better results 
than a good stone in poor condition. The stone should be 
kept clean, and with its surface flat and true; then it is 
always ready to do good work, and you will probably find 



HAND TOOLS. 49 

that you have got one of the best, if not the best stone in 
existence. Well, take good care of it, and you may thus 
prolong its efficiency. 

In purchasing tools, always look for quahty rather than 
quantity, as you will be able to do more and better work 
with a few really good tools than with any number of poor 
ones. Having gotten your good tools, including the oil- 
stone, take good care of them, and don't be afraid to put 
them to work. Tools that are too good to use for ordinary, 
every-day work should find no place in the patternmaker's 
''kit"; and even good tools can usually be replaced by bet- 
ter ones, so don't be afraid that too much personal effort 
on your part is going to cause a scarcity of good tools. 

If you wish to become the fortunate possessor of a really 
good " kit," buy only according to your needs, not in " sets," 
per some toolmaker's catalogue. These ''sets" are made 
up of two classes of units, the useful and the ornamental. 
While useful tools may also be ornamental, it is the useful 
quality which "pays the rent" of the owner. 

When you say that an edge-tool is "sharp," you mean 
that it has an edge (see Webster's Unabridged) of such 
thickness, or thinness, as will most readily cut the material 
being worked. Thus the condition called "sharp" is a 
relative condition of thickness or angle, fixed by the quality 
of the tool, the material to be worked or cut, and the oil- 
stone. A tool ground at such an angle as has been found 
best for cutting steel would be of little use in working pine ; 
and while the tool which cuts pine smoothly might be of 
such a quality of steel as would cut metal, the thin edge 
which makes the tool most efficient for pine would soon 
be destroyed by the metal. 



50 PATTERNMAKING. 

I shall attempt to give no rules for grinding edge-tools, 
as the proper or most efficient angle can only be fixed by 
the material to be worked and the quality of the tool. An 
edge which cuts pine with ease and persistency may be 
quickly destroyed if the tool is applied to some harder 
wood, such as mahogany or cherry. This destruction is 
caused by the breaking or crumbling of the edge, the 
greater resistance of the mahogany causing the edge to 
spring and break off. After one or two applications to 
the oil-stone this tendency is corrected, and we say that 
we have now got the tool "down to an edge," or that ''the 
edge stands up" now. What really happens is a thicken- 
ing of the edge, caused by application to the oil-stone. 

Continued rubbing on the oil-stone makes the edge so 
thick that we are, at times, obliged to resort to the grinder, 
or perhaps you still cling to the old grindstone, which has 
been, and still is, a real help to the wood-worker, but is not 
an indispensable tool, as the w«t tool-grinder more than 
fills its place. 



CHAPTER VI. 



BENCH WORK. 



Bench work, or the use of hand tools in reducing pat- 
tern stock to finished patterns, is to-day largely a question 
of facilities. The shop which is obliged to do, or allows 
to be done, too much of this sort of hand work, will find 
itself handicapped by the cost of its pattern work. Still 
there must always be some of this kind of work. 

In the old days, when the patternmaker was expected 
to do the whole job, except, possibly, the actual chopping 
down of the tree, with his own hands, assisted only by the 
tools he had been able to acquire personally, bench work 
was the beginning and the end and all the way between — 
in fact, pattern work was all bench work. 

To-day, with the bulk of the work accomplished by the 
machine tools, bench work has come to consist principally 
of laying out the different pieces required in building up a 
job, and, later on, of assembling the same into the finished 
pattern. This is duly attested by the decreasing number 
of cutting tools for hand use, and the greater number of 
measuring or "laying out" tools, such as scales, squares, 
bevels, angles, dividers, calipers, and the like. Note also 
the improvement in these tools both as regards their ac- 
curacy and their convenient forms. 

The shooting-board has been replaced by the trimmer; 
the bench planes by the hand jointer; the hand-saws by 

51 



52 PATTERNMAKING. 

the circular saw, and the whip-saw and draw-knife by the 
band-saw. In short, the bench work, in some of the pres- 
ent up-to-date shops, consists principally of the preparation 
and sharpening of tools and cutters for the machines. 

The tendency of the times toward specialization is seen 
in some pattern shops, where one man does all of the band- 
sawing, another the lathe work, while a third man runs the 
buzz-saw and still another has charge of the planers. This 
division of labor may result in making the bench- workers a 
class by themselves ; when it does, they will easily be at the 
top of the list, as the laying out and the final assemblage of 
the parts must necessarily fall to them. 

Another very important part of bench work is the trans- 
lation of the scale drawings, usually furnished to the pat- 
ternmaker, into full, pattern-size lay-outs, showing the 
actual shape and size of the patterns required, thus enabling 
the patternmaker to cut his material to the best advantage 
and with as little waste as possible. 

Thus bench work, or that part of it which is accomplished 
by hand cutting tools, has been reduced from the complete 
job to such parts as are of irregular shape and thus require 
cutting and carving to shape by hand. Patternmakers may 
come to be classed as '4athe-hands," "sawyers," and 
''bench-hands," but as most shops do not employ a suffi- 
ciently large number of patternmakers to make the em- 
ployment of these specialists profitable, there will always 
be a large percentage of good, all-round workmen. 



CHAPTER VII. 

MACHINE TOOLS FOR PATTERNMAKERS. 

Patternmaking, like the machinist's trade, is getting 
to be simply a question of a man's ability to manage the 
machines which do the actual work. A pattern shop fitted 
up with improved wood- working machines gets along with- 
out much hand work other than what may be necessary in 
putting the work together. It is possible to keep machine 
tools, not only the lathe, but the circular saw and the planer, 
in such shape that work may be cut right down to the hne, 
although there are some things to be considered beforehand. 
By the way, why is it that the pattern shop, with all its high- 
speed machinery, is located at the top of the building? 
This is usually the case, although I know of one shop that 
is located on the ground floor, and another that is now at 
the top of a three-story building, but used to be located 
under the foundry. 

High-speed machines need a solid foundation. A buzz 
planer running 4,500 revolutions a minute will soon show 
you if there is any spring to the floor it may stand on, es- 
pecially if the driving-belt is so laced that every time the 
lacing runs over the pulley it has the same effect as a blow 
struck on the spindle. A lacing seems like a little thing; 
but when it is fixed in a belt, and travelling at a speed as 
high as 4,500 feet in a minute, it becomes a factor which 

S3 



54 PATTERNMAKING. 

must be considered if you wish to get the best results from 
the machine. 

Did you ever notice the difference between a machine 
whose driving-belt was strained up like a fiddle-string, with 
the lacing so prominent that you could hear it all over the 
room every time it goes over the pulley, and a machine 
whose driving-belt was just tight enough to do the work 
well, with the lacing or fastening so made that it makes no 
noise as it passes over the pulley? The first machine will 
get hot, do poor work, and will impress any one not used 
to it wdth an uneasy feeling, as if something was wrong; 
while the second machine will run all day as cool as a 
cucumber ; and the man running it can do more and better 
work because he knows that the machine is all right, and 
therefore he can give his whole attention to the work. 

This belt question I consider of more importance than 
is usually allowed for in practice. In many cases, the cure- 
all for a machine that is not working right is to take a little 
out of the belt. This is sometimes like giving a tired 
horse the whip when it's oats he wants; or, to make my 
meaning plainer, be sure that your horse, or machine, is in 
good running order before putting on the whip. With the 
machine in good order, and the belts properly arranged, 
they need never be tight enough to cause any trouble about 
heating the boxes, or in making the spindle they may drive 
jump so that you can hear it and feel it, and also see it on 
the work. This jumping is generally owing to the uneven- 
ness of the surface of driving-belt; often it is caused by a 
lacing badly put in, which makes a lump on the inner sur- 
face of belt, and pounds on the pulley every time it passes 
over the latter. This we can remedy by using an endless 



MACHINE TOOLS FOR PATTERNMAKERS. 55 

belt, or some form of lacing that will make a smooth joint 
and thus imitate an endless belt, the great virtue of which 
lies in the fact that it has no joints and, therefore, will run 
perfectly smooth. It may still be too tight and make the 
journals get hot. This can only be cured by judgment 
and skill in the care and management of the machine. 

An excellent way of lacing a driving-belt for a high-speed 
machine is to hold the ends together and sew them with 
tough, strong wire, making the stitches as short as possible. 
This is the best thing I ever saw for a lacing in a fast-run- 
ning belt. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE BAND-SAW. 

A VERY useful tool in a pattern shop is a good band- 
saw. The more it is used the better it is liked, and one is 
continually being surprised by its capabilities. It will do 
nearly everything that a circular saw can do, and a great 
many things that can't be done by a circular saw. The 
band-saw, if kept in good order, will do nice work, but if 
the guides are allowed to get worn out of shape, leaving the 
edge of saw loose, the saw so badly set and filed that each 
and every tooth strikes in in a new place on the stuff being 
sawed, and then the hole through the table so large that 
you can stick your finger down through the table all around 
the saw, it won't be likely to do very nice work, and it 
wouldn't be safe to get very close to the line in sawing, be- 
cause you never would be sure of where the saw was cutting 
on the bottom side of the stuff. With a saw that is set and 
filed accurately you may safely cut right up to the line, 
when necessary, if you don't crowd the saw but allow it 
time to cut free and clean. 

In sawing short curves it is very easy to cramp the saw 
by feeding too fast or in the wrong direction. It is hard 
to give any explicit directions in regard to feeding when 
sawing curves, but let the feeding be so done that all the 
power exerted will tend to force the saw against the collar 

56 



THE BAND-SAW. 57 

or plate behind it. You shouldn't twist the stuff so that 
the saw is pressed hard against the sides of the guide, as 
this causes great friction and consequently throws a great 
strain on the saw, also heating it. If you persist in doing 
this you will break a great many saws, besides wearing out 
the guides very fast. The rubber covering on the wheels 
will also come in for an excessive amount of wear. 

When the saw needs setting or filing, before you take it 
off the wheels brush the dirt and gum out of the teeth. 
A file card does this first rate; then joint the saw with an 
emery stone, taking care to hold the stone square across 
the saw. Take off the saw and, if it needs setting, set it 
just as little as possible. Don't try to make a wide saw do 
the work for which you should use a narrow saw by setting 
it very wide, for it won't work nice, and it is hard on the 
wheel covering. In filing, it is customary to file all from 
one side and square across, although the saw would cut 
better if filed partly from each side. 

After the saw is replaced on the wheels, the guides are 
adjusted to the saw, not the saw made to run in the guides, 
just as they are, because it ran so before fihng; unless both 
the top and bottom guides are just right to fit and hold the 
saw. Make sure that they are just right. They should be 
exactly in line with the saw, and take in the whole width of 
saw except the teeth. Then adjust the upper wheel. This 
will usually have to be done whenever the saw is changed, 
and sometimes when a saw has been newly set. The wheel 
is usually, and I presume always, provided with means for 
tilting it over toward the front or back as may be necessary, 
so that the saw won't run off. It should run against the 
back of the guide very lightly when not doing any work. 



58 PATTERNMAKING. 

This saves the guides and also prevents any unnecessary- 
heating of the saw. 

Now joint off both sides of the saw in this way: use an 
emery stone having a fiat surface, then holding the stone 
against the side of saw touching the back edge first, and 
keeping it in contact with the back edge, swing it around 
until It touches the sides of the teeth. This method will 
prevent any possibility of cutting off the front corners of 
teeth, and therefore the saw will cut to its full width. 

The saw should run straight and true when in motion 
and not squirm around like a snake, as I have seen some do. 
You can perhaps imagine how close to the line it would be 
advisable to get with a saw that runs back and forth side- 
ways, three or four times in each revolution. Of course 
this sidewise motion should be controlled by the guides, 
but the same saw that has the most need of the controlling 
influence of the guides doesn't get it because the guides are 
in no better shape than the saw itself. 

A saw that has been broken and mended a number of 
times is very apt to run crooked, not only on account of the 
joints, but because the soft places which the brazing of the 
joints make are very apt to get bent. When your saw gets 
broken and you wish to mend it, begin by filing down the 
ends you wish to join. Make the joint from y to i'' long, 
taking care to file the ends to a straight taper, so that the 
joint will fit closely together without springing and also be 
of the same thickness as the rest of the saw. This is im- 
portant, as you will find that if you have to spring the joint 
together when you braze it, you will spring the saw on each 
side of the joint. Then when you are ready to braze the 
joint, take care to clamp it down straight, and don't get more 



THE BAND-SAW. 59 

thickness of brass, silver, or whatever solder you use than 
there will be of steel after the joint is finished. Put the 
saw on the machine, adjust the guides, and try it. If the 
edge runs in a straight line, and the new joint passes the 
guide without being heard, you have done a good job, and 
you will be repaid for all your trouble by the quality of 
work turned off. 

If I should try to tell all that might be done by a band- 
saw I should wear out the patience of the reader, and per- 
haps not tell him anything new after all. The best job I 
ever heard of as being accomplished on a band-saw was the 
sawing of gear-teeth, right to the line, so that they only 
required sandpapering to complete them. I didn't see the 
gear- teeth, but I always thought they must have been fin- 
ished before the sandpaper touched them. Seriously, 
about the only thing in the line of sawing that can't be done 
on a band-saw is making holes. This is where the band- 
saw has to yield to the jig-saw, its older relative. This 
machine (the jig-saw) as in use in most shops, makes more 
noise than all the rest of the machinery together, and does 
comparatively little work. It is just the opposite with the 
band-saw, which makes very little noise but does a great 
deal of work. 

There are, of course, some exceptions to the kind of jig- 
saw noted, but even the best of them require constant care 
and a good deal of it. The saw wants filing very often, 
and why shouldn't it when you remember that about five 
inches of its length does all the work, and consequently 
gets dull very quickly. Then the guides for the crossheads 
— perhaps there are two crossheads — must be kept snug, 
and the connecting-rod or pitman mustn't be allowed to 



6o PATTERNMAKING. 

get loose; and there is usually trouble in keeping the 
machine oiled, as the sawdust, more or less of it (generally 
more), falls directly on the crosshead and pitman, and soon 
absorbs the oil from these parts and from the guides. But 
we put up with them with all their faults, because we can't 
saw holes with a band-saw, until some genius ( ?) makes a 
band-saw with a joint in it. 

One great diiSiculty in the way of a smooth-running jig- 
saw is a little too much speed; they run too fast. If the 
pitman and crosshead are too heavy and are not well bal- 
anced, you can easily see what a little too much speed will 
do. Then there are jig-saws that are not provided with 
any appliance to ease the shock of reversing the motion at 
the end of stroke. The spring commonly used at the top 
to strain the saw helps the reversing at the lower end of 
stroke, but hinders it at the upper end. Another point 
where the jig-saw has the advantage of band-saw is in the 
size of work which may be done. On the band-saw the 
size is limited to the diameter of the wheels which carry the 
saw, but with the jig-saw the only limit to size of stuff 
sawed is the size of the room where the saw is located. 

A good jig-saw should have its crosshead and pitman as 
light as is consistent with the necessary strength, and well 
balanced, with a good tension for saw at the top end. 
This is a sure method of holding the saw, and one that can 
be operated quickly. The pitman must not be too short; 
neither should it be too long, as this will add unnecessary 
weight to the reciprocating parts. Not less than three, or 
more than five times the length of stroke will put the length 
within reasonable limits. The tension-spring helps the 
reversing at lower end of stroke. Then if the blower for 



THE BAND-SAW. 6i 

removing the sawdust could be located at the top end of 
stroke; but the difficulty in the way of this is the pipe 
necessary to convey the compressed air from the blower 
to the upper surface of work. Still an air cushion might 
be utilized to keep the sawdust off the crosshead and 
guides, and it would certainly make the saw run more 
steadily. Then, to bring out the good points, and make 
them show to the best advantage, the saw should stand 
on a good foundation. 

It is not a good plan to use much oil on the saw, or the 
saw-guides, because the sawdust sticks to it, and the oil 
gets on your work, and it makes things dirty and disagree- 
able. This applies equally well to the band-saw. It is 
much better to keep the saw in such good order that it will 
need no oiling at these points. 

I recollect reading in the American Machinist about the 
influence which poor tools, dirty machines, and the poor 
work resulting therefrom, had upon the character of the 
workman. Where these things are chronic, the man*s 
work will soon become, like the shop, poor and dirty, and 
who ever saw a dirty machine do a good job ? 

Take, for example, a band-saw that hasn't had the oil 
and dirt wiped off in six months, and this, too, where it 
has been the rule to oil the saw and saw- guide as oft*en as 
any one thought necessary. The oil will collect all the 
sawdust that will stick to it; the more oil, the more saw- 
dust. The saw itself I should expect to find in keeping 
with the machine, every tooth set to a different width, and 
filed to a length of its own. This saw won't do good work, 
and the man who has the care of it won't be apt to lose 
much sleep on this account. 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE CIRCULAR SAW. 

I THINK that the circular saw will rank first among 
machine tools for the patternmaker. A great variety of 
work may be done with a sharp saw that is mounted on a 
good table. 

In using a circular saw, the first thing to attend to, after 
we know that the belts are all right, is to see that the saw 
itself is in good order. Now, I am not going to give any 
rules for sharpening saws, but will just say what has been 
my experience. It would, in fact, be rather difficult to 
make any fixed rule in regard to setting and filing saws 
without first knowing just what they were to be used 
for. 

For pattern work, a saw needs to be kept sharp, jointed 
true, but as the lumber is dry and soft it won't need much 
setting. A saw may fill these two first conditions and still 
not do a good job, because of the way in which the saw has 
been set and filed. It may have been set unevenly, or 
when the teeth were not all of a length. The saw should be 
jointed before removing from the arbor. 

If you use any kind of a set that slips over the teeth until 
a gauge touches the point of tooth, you can see the object 
of jointing the saw before setting. It isn't necessary to 
set the saw every time we file it, and for this reason we 
should be particular, when it is necessary, to set the teeth 

62 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 



63 



all just alike, and as the point of the tooth is usually the 
guide in setting the saw, it is evident that the points should 
all be at the same distance from the centre of arbor. This 
is accomplished by jointing the saw while it is running in 
position. 

As to the filing, I have found that a splitting saw, if filed 
as near square across the saw as possible, gives the best 



i 




Fig. I. 



Fig. 2. 



results. It cuts more freely, leaves the stuff smoother, and 
will keep sharp as long as a saw which is filed at an angle 
or fleaming. 

If you believe in filing the teeth at an angle with the axis 
of saw, let me show you something which perhaps you have 



64 PATTERNMAKING. 

already noticed and can explain to your own satisfaction. 
After you have sharpened your saw take a piece of lumber 
and try it. After cutting in a little way, stop and see the 
shape of the end of kerf. The points of the teeth have cut 
ahead and left the wood in the middle of kerf projecting 
back toward the saw. What cuts away the wood that 
forms this point ? It must of course be removed by what- 
ever edge the tooth may have crosswise of the saw. 

With the saw filed as in Fig. 2 (which also shows the 
point of wood left at the end of kerf), there cannot be a 
very thin edge, and consequently it won't be an edge that 
will cut wood; and as it will require some crowding to 
make it tear or bruise off the wood, won't the crowding 
tend to force the points of the teeth away from the centre 
of the cut, making the saw cut a wider kerf than it should, 
and checking the speed until it runs slowly enough for each 
tooth to be heard as it enters and leaves the wood ? Then 
the saw will rattle, until it has cleared for itself a little wider 
channel. At the same time you will stop crowding the 
piece of stuff, and the saw will have a chance to regain its 
speed, when it will run on again for a little space, the dis- 
tance or time between two of these spells being governed 
by the kind of lumber, keenness of the saw, and the 
amount of force used in pushing the stuff up to the saw. 

Is this the way you have explained it to yourself? I 
claim that the cutting edge of the teeth on a splitting saw 
should be as nearly as possible at right angles with the 
grain of the wood operated upon. This is accomplished 
by filing the saw square across, both the front and top of 
tooth, as in Fig. i, which leaves every tooth with an edge 
or point like the edge of a chisel. What sort of progress 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 65 

would a man make in beating mortices with a mallet and 
chisel if he continually left the ends or heads in the shape 
of the end of kerf in Fig. 2? Doesn't he get along best 
when he places the edge of his chisel square across the 
grain ? Of course he does, and so will a splitting saw cut 
the best when the teeth cut like chisels and strike the wood 
square across the grain. 

For a cross-cut saw the points of the teeth should re- 
semble the point of a knife, so as to cut off the wood at 
each side of the "kerf." The centre of the kerf will take 
care of itself now. 

You will find that a splitting saw filed square across, in 
going through a piece of stuff cuts away the wood in the 
form of shavings, not sawdust, and it will also require less 
crowding and will cut cleaner and smoother. In short, it 
is the right way to file a splitting saw. But I am afraid 
that I have set down a rule, and a very arbitrary rule, for 
filing splitting saws. Well, try it, and see for yourself. 

Don't let your saw get worn off on the sides of teeth, 
because then it won't cut, but will bruise or tear the wood. 
A saw which cuts nothing but dry pine won't get this way, 
and a saw which is kept sharp won't, either. 

I have seen a saw-table, made of seven-eighths matched 
spruce, with the hole where the saw came through so large 
that it wouldn't be safe to saw anything less than a foot 
square, for fear that it would fall through the hole, but this 
wasn't a table for nice work, as any one could see. I 
remember another saw-table, also made of wood, where 
I sawed some curly maple veneers 6 J'' wide and only xV' 
thick, with an ordinary 16" or 18'' saw, and they didn't go 
down through the table either. This saw, which I am pretty 
5 



66 PATTERNMAKING. 

sure was filed square across, was located in Colt's armory 
pattern shop, at Hartford, Conn., and with other saws for 
the same table, were the best cutting saws I ever used. 

The iron saw-table of to-day is a marvel of convenience, 
compactness, and durability, and with the different attach- 
ments will do a great variety of work, and do it nicely. 

Did you ever have any trouble in setting the fence or 
guide on an old-fashioned (and some new-fashioned) saw- 
table to saw to an exact width? After measuring closely 
the distance between saw and fence, you turn down the 
clamp-screw and move the fence forward or back a little. 
Try it again and this time hold on to the fence. There, 
now, it is all right, sure you have got it clamped tight. 
You try it and find that it isn't tight, and give the screw 
another turn, with the same result as in the first trial. By 
this time you are getting tired, and long for a chance to 
get even with that fence. Then you took a hammer, and 
tried, by rapping it lightly, to correct the error, but it didn't 
move readily, and you got excited over it ; perhaps you 
broke something. 

How much better the fence on the iron table works, 
especially those having a quick and slow motion. Make 
a gauge Hne on a piece of stuff just where you want the 
inside of saw to cut. Set the fence by the quick motion 
nearly to this line, start the saw, and by the slow motion 
move the fence up until the saw splits the line. Your suc- 
cess will now depend upon the steadiness with which the 
saw runs and your skill in feeding the stuff up to the 
saw. 

Another bad feature about a wooden table is the wear. 
The fence gets rounding and out of square, the table 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 



67 



wears down into a hollow, which is lowest just in front 
of saw, and the hole where the saw comes through the 
table will wear off on 
each side of the saw, 
especially the top cor- 
ners. This leaves it in 
a bad state for doing any- 
small work. To offset 
this, the iron table is a 
little apt to be sticky 
hke an iron plane, and 
does not keep as clean 
as a good hardwood 
table. 

Fig. 3 will illustrate 
two ways of roughing 
out small core-boxes on 
the buzz saw. I have 
heard it asserted that it 
was possible to cut a 
small core - box for a 
straight round core ex- 
actly to the finished size, 
but I will show you why 
this can't be done, by 
referring to Fig. 3. 

Suppose we wish to 
saw a box the diameter 
of which is equal to the 
space between lines / g 
and i h. Let the line Fig. 3. 




68 PATTERNMAKING. 

a 6 be the top of saw-table ; set the saw to the right height, 
or one-half the diameter of the core-box. A part of the 
saw, represented by the arc d e, is now above the saw-table. 
We must now find the angle at which the box must be 
passed over the table, that the saw, which has been ad- 
justed to the correct height, may also be made to cut to the 
right width. It is evident that a line representing the 
chord of an arc d e made by the points of teeth on saw, 
which chord will be at the surface of table, when drawn 
on the core-box, if placed in such a position that one end 
touches line i h, while the other end touches line / g, will 
show the angle at which the box must pass over the saw. 

When the angle is small, as in the present case, allowance 
should be made for the thickness of saw. 

Now by making a diagram similar to Fig. 3, we will be 
able to see just what shape the core box will be in after 
passing over the saw. Draw lines j k I from a b, the top of 
table, to an arc of circle d e, and perpendicular to a 6, then 
from the points between these lines meet with a h draw 
other lines p qdX the same angle with a 6, that we found 
would be necessary to make the saw cut to the right width; 
draw a line r s 2X right-angles with p q; this line will rep- 
resent the face or joint of core-box. Now measure on 
lines j kl the distance between a h and arc d e^ transfer each 
of these spaces to lines p q, measuring this time from line 
r s and keeping the spaces the same on similar lines ; that 
is, make the space on line q the same, measuring from r 5, 
as the space between a b and d e measured on line j. After 
transferring all the spaces in the same way, connect the 
points found on lines, p q, and the result will be a curved 
line t u V. I have shown only a part of the whole curve, 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 



69 



but enough is shown to enable you to see that a section of 
the box, instead of being a true circle, would vary therefrom 
in proportion as the diameter 
of saw varies from the diam- 
eter of core-box. The nearer 
the two are of the same di- 
ameter the closer we shall be 
able to cut the box. If it 
were possible to use one-half 
of the whole saw, and move 
the box exactly square across 
the saw, we should be able 
to cut out a half-circle having 
the same radius as the saw, 
but this would not be possible 
with the ordinary saw- table, 
therefore it isn't likely that 
any one will cut round core 
boxes exactly to the line in 
this manner. 

Staves may be hollowed out 
in this way very nicely and 
rapidly. For this purpose you 
want a keen saw, and one that 
is very stiff. 

A better way of roughing 
out core-boxes is also shown 
in Fig. 3, where Vy 5, 6 is the circle of box and i, 2, 3, 
4 show grooves sawn lengthwise through the box, and of 
such depth as will just reach the line "z^, 5, 6. I have shown 
thin strips of wood left between the saw- kerfs, but the cuts 




Fig. 4- 



70 



PATTERNMAKING. 



may be made close together or even overlapping near the 
sides of box so as to remove more of the v^ood shown above 
groove marked i. 

Fig. 4 shows a very common way of sawing wedges. 
The gauge is made with one side shown by dotted line 




Fig. 5- 

having the required taper. Place the opposite side against 
the fence &, hold one edge of the piece to be cut against the 
templet, letting the end toward you rest against the shoul- 
der formed by the piece i, which is fastened to the back 
end of templet, then by moving the stuff over the saw while 
it is held against the templet, which in turn is guided by the 
fence, you will be able to saw any number of wedges all 
alike, and having the same taper as templet g. You may 
facilitate matters a little by putting a handle on the templet 
as shown at /, and by making the templet of the same thick- 
ness as the stuff to be sawed, and putting a piece on top, as 
shown by h, reaching nearly to the saw, you will prevent 
any piece being caught and thrown back by the saw. 

If you wish to cut the wedges to a point, reverse the 
templet and put the handle and the piece i at the opposite 
end. 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 



71 



Fig. 5 shows a way of sawing up staves which wastes no 
lumber, a b is the top of table, c is the saw, and e the 
templet or gauge piece used. This piece is made with the 
angle at upper corner next the saw, the same as the re- 
quired angle for staves, and the edge under fence d is sawn 
to a parallel thickness, as shown; or you may cut a shallow 




Fig. 6. 




Fig. 7. 

groove in the upper surface of this piece, the idea being to 
make provision for its being held in position by the lower 
edge of tilting fence, which is beveled off nearly to an edge 
in order to keep the face close down to the table when the 
fence is tilted, as shown by d in the present case. 

If the stuff is cut to the required length, then saw one 
stave off of each piece, a little wider than the finished stave, 
then you tilt the fence until it fits the beveled edge as 



72 PATTERNMAKING. 

shown at rf, and move it up to the right distance from saw. 
Now, by turning the stuff over endwise each time a stave 
is cut off, you cut them all to a width and bevel both edges 
at one operation. 

By a combination of the principles shown in Figs. 4, 5, 
a dovetailed wedge may be sawn as shown in Fig. 6, where 
e i is the table, a the saw, h the fence, and c the stuff to be 
cut; d is the beveled piece which forms the dovetail, g the 
wedge-shaped piece which gives the proper taper, / the 
handle, which is also shown in Fig. 4 at /, /j is a piece put 
on top of g and projecting over the piece to be sawed — the 
same as h in Fig. 4. The stuff is to be turned over every 
time a wedge is cut off. Thus you see they will be cut on 
the right taper, and both edges beveled at one operation. 
The dovetails for gear-teeth may be cut in this way, or the 
dovetails for holding loose pieces in place. 

With the aid of the tilting fence you may saw ordinary 
sized work so that the section shall have any form that is 
bounded by straight lines; but very small pieces cannot 
be sawed in this way, for lack of sufficient surface to steady 
them against the guide. In Fig. 7 I have shown a way of 
sawing small pieces to an octagonal form. The piece d 
has a groove cut in its upper surface, the two sides of which 
form an angle of 45° with the surface of saw-table a h. To 
set this in place, if the saw is raised and lowered by a 
screw, or in any other way that will admit of moving the 
saw while in motion, lower the saw below the surface of 
table, then place the piece d in its place, and fasten it in 
any convenient manner; then start the saw and raise it 
while in motion, letting it cut a passage for itself through d^ 
and raising it only just high enough to cut through the 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 73 

stuff. You can now cut any number of pieces to the same 
size and shape. The piece must have a parallel thickness 
and one square edge. 

Although I have shown the gauge d made to cut octa- 
gons, it is evident that the same principle may be applied 




Fig. 8. 

to any required angle. With the gauge as shown in Fig. 7, 
but with the saw coming up through the centre of groove, 
you can cut any amount of fillets, and with the saw as 
shown you can saw dowel-pins, and with the help of a 
dowel-plate (piece of steel with a hole through it the size 
you wish to make pins) you can finish them ready for use, 
taking them as they come from the saw and driving them 
through dowel-plate, which will shape them ready for the 
pattern. 

Dovetails may be cut on an ordinary saw-table if it is 
in good shape. Fig. 8 shows how the kind of dovetail so 
much used for small packing-boxes, and sometimes called 
Canada dovetails, may be made ; h is the saw- table, c the 
saw, and d the gauge-piece. This piece is made of a paral- 
lel thickness, and before fastening to table has a slot sawn 
through it, and a strip of hard- wood, e, which just fills the 
kerf, is placed in it. This piece d must be fastened on the 
saw-table in such a position that the hard- wood strip e will 
be parallel with the saw, and distant from it exactly the 
width of cut made by saw; then the pieces left standing 



74 



PATTERNMAKING. 



between the cuts will just fill the cuts on the piece used for 
the other half of joint. You will see that the only difficult 
part of the job is setting the piece d so that the tenon left 
between two cuts will be of the same width or thickness as 
saw kerf. Do it this way : Saw the slot in d for the strip e^ 
fit two hard- wood strips into it, letting them project above 
the surface of d Y or i"y ^^^ ^^^o saw a slot in another 
piece of stuff before moving either saw or fence. You now 
have two pieces with a groove in each one at the same dis- 
tance from one edge, the edge which was placed against 
the fence. In one of these pieces put one of the hard- wood 
strips, then use the other as a gauge-piece between the first 




Fig. 9. 

one and the saw, so that it will leave exactly the same 
thickness between the cuts that it cuts out. After finding 
the width necessary, lower the saw beneath the surface of 
table and place the piece d in position against the fence. 
Then start the saw and raise it up slowly, letting it cut 
through d. Set it to the right height, then, after moving 
the fence out of the way, you are ready to go on with your 
job. 

It will be found best to fasten a number of pieces to- 
gether for sawing, as this will give more length to the sur- 
face in contact with the fence or strip e, and thus hold the 
stuff steady while passing over the saw. 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 75 

For sawmg a regular dovetail, you must make the piece 
d with the surface inclined to give the bevel necessary for 
dovetail as shown at d^ Fig. 9. The hard- wood strip e 
must be fixed parallel with the saw, then you may take 



\ 1 ^ '^' { 




Fig. 10. 

choice between two ways of gauging or spacing the dove- 
tails. You may cut them all from one edge of the stuff by 
sawing one side of all the dovetails, and then by turning 
the gauge-piece d around to the position shown by dotted 
lines / and g, Fig. 9, being particular to place e at exactly 
the same distance from saw that it was when the first side 
of dovetails was cut. Then after locating the first cut from 
the same edge that was used in locating the opposite side 
of dovetails, you may finish cutting them. There is a diffi- 
culty about this which will be explained further on, and is 
caused by moving the gauge-strip e when the piece d is 
changed to the opposite side of saw. 

A better way is to get the pieces out all of the same 
width. This may be done by the saw. Then locate the 
first cut on either side of dovetail by the two edges of piece, 




76 PATTERNMAKING. 

and the strip or guide e will do all the rest, and won't have 
to be moved for the second side. If it is desired to make 
the first nearer the edge than the distance between e and 
the saw, use a parallel piece between the stuff and e. 

The other part of the joint, the gain or mortise, will 
have to be cut one piece at a time. If your saw- table has 
an adjustable slide for sawing horizontal angles, 
this may be accomplished very easily. Fasten 
to the slide a piece of stuff like section shown at 
Fig. II, making a the upright portion high 
enough to give a good support to the stuff to be 
Fig. II. sawed, and the rabbet at h about the same thick- 
ness as stuff to be cut. This piece should be in 
length about twice the width of the pieces to be dove- 
tailed, once the width on each side of saw, to support 
them as they are moved from one side toward the other. 
This piece is also shown at d^ Fig. lo. The fist cut on 
each side of dovetail will be gauged from the edge of 
stuff. This can be done by putting a hand-screw on the 
slide at the required distance from saw. The position 
of this cut will locate all of the others by means of the 
strip e. The cut which holds this strip is made before 
fastening the piece d to the slide, which will insure its 
being parallel with the saw. 

We can now saw one side of all the gains, then by turn- 
ing the slide around to the opposite angle, and making 
another cut for e parallel with the saw in its present posi- 
tion, we can finish the gains. 

If the saw-table has no adjustable slide, make a slide as 
shown in Fig. 12, where a is the fence, he the slide or 
gauge, and d the saw. The two sides of the gauge h and c 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 



77 



should have a section like Fig. 1 1, and should be far enough 
apart at the saw to give some length outside of saw to sup- 
port the stuff being cut, and the distance between the saw 
and fence must be equal to the whole width of pieces 




Fig. 12. 



to be dovetailed, as the fence is not to be moved while 
sawing the gains. 

At e, e are shown the hard- wood strips which determine 
the space between cuts. The saw kerfs for holding these 
slips are made by setting the fence one space nearer the 
saw before locating it for cutting the gains. There is one 
thing which is very important, the accurate spacing of the 
cuts at the two angles necessary to form the two sides of 
gains, and which is accomplished very easily and correctly 
by this means. It is evident that if the spaces between the 
cuts for one side of the gains are longer or shorter than the 
spaces for the opposite side, the width of the gains will 
increase or diminish in the same proportion. This is a 
point about which great care should be taken, as it will be 



78 PATTERNMAKING. 

almost impossible to make the dovetails fit together if they 
are not of the same size, and spaced evenly. This will, of 
course, apply to both the dovetails and the gains, or the 
tenons and mortises. The test of spacing the dovetails is 
to get your stuff to a width, then the same gauge does for 
both sides of the tenons without moving, and for cutting 
the gains. The method shown in Fig. 1 2 will give the best 
results, because the cuts for the pieces e, e are made parallel 
with the saw and both at one time; then as the angles 
formed by the two sides h and c of the sliding gauge are 
equal, it follows that the distance between the saw and 
either one of the pieces e will always equal the distance be- 
tween the saw and the other piece. 

This manner of cutting dovetails may be used for mak- 
ing snap-flasks, or for any other purpose where a good 
many pieces are to be made all alike. It would not pay 
for only a few. 

In sawing mitres (horizontal), as for picture-frames, it 
is evident that unless the opposite sides are of the same 
length the joints won't fit; to get them of the same 
length, place one on top of the other and cut them both at 
once. 

By using a gauge-piece similar to the one used in cutting 
staves, shown in Fig. 5, any number of pieces may be cut 
at once, as in making hexagonal or octagonal frames. 
This may also be done by putting a stop on slide after 
cutting one end of all the pieces to be sawed to the same 
length, and placing the cut end against the stop. 

In sawing pieces off square and of the same length, where 
they are to be cut pretty short, as in cutting up stuff for 
gear-teeth, one very common way of gauging the length is 



THE CIRCULAR SAW. 79 

by the fence ; but if the stuff sawed is narrow, the pieces are 
liable to catch between the fence and the saw and make 
trouble, perhaps break something. A better way is to 
fasten a piece down on table, back from the saw, in such a 
position that when the stuff is drawn back for another cut, 
the end may be pushed against this piece, thus gauging the 
length; then when it is moved up to the saw it is left all 
clear. This may also be accomplished by a piece placed 
against the fence and kept back from the saw. If you still 
persist in using the fence alone for a gauge, just count your 
fingers after you have done sawing to be sure that you still 
have the right number. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE LATHE. 

The lathe is another very essential tool in pattern work. 
In fact, patternmakers could hardly keep house without 
one at least in the shop, and there should be two in order 
to do the great variety of work which comes to nearly all 
shops. We must have a lathe large enough to swing the 
big pieces, and as this big lathe cannot be run at a high 
speed without a great waste of power and excessive wear, 
it will be good economy to put in a small lathe for the 
small work. 

The number and size of lathes necessary for any particu- 
lar shop will be governed by the size and kind of work to 
be done. Some shops can get along with one lathe, or, 
perhaps, only the occasional use of a lathe, while some other 
shops — as, for instance, a shop where steam and water 
fittings are made for plumbers — need a lathe for every 
man, and a good lathe, though it needn't be very large. 

There are plenty of lathes running every day now that 
ought to have been out on the scrap-heap ten or fifteen 
years ago. The pattern-shop is a kind of hospital or home 
for all the worn-out lathes in the works. 

I have seen an old, worn-out engine-lathe, one that had 
probably never run over 1,200 to 1,500 revolutions, brought 
into the pattern-shop with the back gear and feed attach- 
ment removed, and expected to get right up to 4,000 turns 

80 



THE LATHE. 8i 

a minute without any trouble. This expectation is, unfort- 
unately for us poor patternmakers, not often realized. 

I have tried to make patterns on a lathe where the face- 
plate slipped over the end of lathe spindle, and fastened 
with a set-screw, and as the end of spindle was at least ■^" 
smaller than the hole through face-plate, any job you hap- 
pened to be turning had to be finished without taking it 
out of the lathe, and I guess every man in the shop got his 
knuckles rapped by the set-screw. It seemed to me some- 
times as though it was all set-screw, and every time you 
touched the work it would revolve on a new centre. An- 
other lathe in the same shop had wooden shears, but it was 
a good-running lathe, as the head was fitted up nicely, and 
had a wooden cone. We usually had the luck to get lathes 
in the pattern-shop with iron cones, and with the large end 
of cone toward the front end of spindle. This is because 
they have been engine-lathes or brass-finishers' lathes, and 
the iron cone wrong end foremost was all right for the pur- 
pose the lathe was intended for. But this lathe had a 
wooden cone with the right end — that is, the small end — 
toward the front end of spindle. The only trouble with 
this lathe was speed. It ran too fast. On the fastest 
speed you could hear it hum, and it probably made 6,000 
turns a minute. This was too much for a lathe that would 
turn 2Z" in diameter over bed, and which was also made 
extra heavy for face-plate work, for which the back end of 
spindle was threaded. 

I can also remember another lathe with wooden shears, 

about the same size but not so good a lathe, and at the time 

I used it it was badly worn. You could hear the spindle 

rattle all over the shop when it was running. The face- 

6 



82 PATTERNMAKING. 

plates on this lathe were all right, but the hole in spindle 
for the spur- centre was not central. Therefore, if a job 
was removed from the lathe and the spur-centre taken out 
for any reason, it was almost impossible to get the work 
back in the lathe so that it would run true. 

The tail-centre was never in line with the spindle, but 
this isn't absolutely essential for a turning-lathe where all 
the work is done with hand tools; still, the lathe would 
work better if the two were kept in line. 

These are a few specimens of the lathes generally found 
in pattern shops, and are a fair sample of the general qual- 
ity of these tools. There are some shops, and it is a pity 
there are not more, where you may find good tools, which 
were made for the purpose they are serving. 

Here, again, is another trouble : There are a great many 
patternmakers, as there are men in all other trades, whose 
chief and seemingly only object in life is to pass away the 
time between two consecutive pay-days in the easiest possi- 
ble manner. Such men as these always use a lathe without 
looking to see if it wants oiling. In fact, the only time they 
ever oil a machine is when the need of it is brought to their 
notice by the spindle getting hot, and perhaps stopping. 
There is probably no class of machinery so easily injured 
by neglect in this particular as high-speed woodworking 
machinery ; consequently, one of these men can do a great 
deal of harm in a very short time. I call to mind a recent 
case of this kind, where a lathe was used without oiling, 
got hot and stopped; then the man using it, in order to 
make it run so that he could finish his job, oiled it, and, 
finding that didn't entirely cure it, he loosened the set-screw 
at tail end of spindle, and also loosened the cap-screws in. 



THE LATHE. 83 

both boxes. The lathe didn't get over it for three months, 
and I don't know as it has fully recovered yet. 

There was a time when it was not considered necessary 
— perhaps it was also thought to be impossible, or at least 
impracticable — to turn wood by means of any tool but a 
hand tool. A wood-turning lathe, fitted with a slide-rest, 
would have been looked upon as a great curiosity not many 
years ago. Now lathes fitted up in this way are getting 
quite common. 

There was also a time when iron was turned altogether 
by hand. Now the machinist has the slide-rest with auto- 
matic feed in any direction, and the patternmaker also has 
the slide rest, but usually without the automatic feed. The 
speed at which it is necessary to run in turning wood, in 
order to cut it smoothly, makes it difficult to use an auto- 
matic feed, as, for instance, in cutting a screw. I have seen 
this done on soft, dry pine in an engine-lathe, but it wasn't 
a job to be proud of, and had to be all dressed over by hand 
before it was anywhere near smooth enough to mould. 
Hard-wood works better. Rolls having a spiral groove 
turned on their surfaces are made successfully from any 
close-grained, hard wood. Such rolls are often used for 
winding the cable on elevators. I think, as a rule, that the 
automatic feed would be a hindrance rather than a help in 
wood-turning. It is, of course, used on lathes which are 
especially adapted to some one thing, as making broom- 
handles ; but this is entirely different from the turning done 
in pattern work. The speed at which the feed would have 
to run, in order to work successfully and economically, is, 
perhaps, the very reason that it cannot be used with satis- 
factory results. 



84 PATTERNMAKING. 

The requisites of a good speed lathe are a well-fitted 
spindle, having a taper-hole bored in front end for centres, 
and a thread cut on the front end for face-plates, leaving 
a good liberal shoulder for them to, bear against. The 
lathe should have wooden cones on both spindle and 
countershaft, in order that the lathe may be stopped and 
started quickly. The smallest step of cone on spindle 
should be toward the front end. This will give more room 
when working close to the lathe head, as in turning the back 
side of a piece on a face-plate. 

The tail- centre should be in line with the spindle and 
have a taper- hole the same as in spindle, then all centres 
and chucks that are fitted in the live spindle may also be 
used in the tail spindle. If the live spindle has brass boxes, 
see that they are well supported by the housings. The 
boxes should not be much longer than the thickness of 
housing, otherwise they are liable to spring and wear un- 
evenly, which will soon make them run hot. 

The tail spindle should be moved by a screw, and pro- 
vided with a clamp for fastening firmly at any point. 

The saddle and rest should be made so as to be adjusted 
and fastened in any position, without the use of a wrench, 
or any tool except what constitutes a part of the saddle or 
rest. A great many rests are fastened in position as re- 
gards height by a square-headed set-screw, and every time 
any change is made in the position it is necessary to first 
find the wrench which fits this screw, and if a monkey- 
wrench is used it will of course have to be adjusted to fit 
the screw before using. How much better a set-screw 
fitted with a lever handle works, both as regards the rest 
and also the operator's temper. 



THE LATHE. 85 

The speed at which a lathe should run depends upon 
its size and the work to be done. A very good speed for a 
lathe that will turn 1 2" in diameter would be on the fastest 
speed 4,500 revolutions, and on the slowest speed from 500 
to 800 revolutions. This cannot be considered as an arbi- 
trary rule for all classes of work, as there is a great differ- 
ence in the work done by the same size lathe in different 
shops, and it isn't every 12" lathe that can be coaxed or 
even compelled to run 4,500 turns a niinute. 

Faster speed than this means an extra fine lathe or a 
loose spindle and excessive wear. If you are fortunate 
enough to possess a lathe that can be run at this speed and 
keep cool, don't let anybody tinker with it on any pretense, 
for in nineteen cases out of twenty they will do it harm. 
Even taking out the spindle to clean it is bad. It is better 
to clean it without removing it from the boxes, and a still 
better way is to use such oil as won't make any dirt, unless 
you let it get hot enough to burn the oil. To prevent this, 
put a piece of rawhide between set- screw and tail end of 
spindle, keep both boxes well oiled, and don't get the belt 
too tight. 

Never locate the counter directly over the lathe spindle. 
Put it back so that the belt won't be exactly vertical. This 
helps the belt a little. Then use a belt as wide as possible, 
lace the belt with wire or shave down the ends and lap them 
and glue them. After the glue has set, sew the splice as 
belts are sewed which are made without rivets, using a 
small thin lacing and pounding it down flat after sewing. 
Make the belt just tight enough to do the work. Then if 
you find that the belt slips, it is likely that you are trying 
to make the lathe do a job that properly belongs to the big 



86 



PATTERNMAKING. 



lathe, or perhaps you are working on the same principle as 
one of my former shop-mates, who, when he had a piece 
in the lathe that had a good deal to be turned off, would 
point his gouge at the most prominent point, shut his eyes, 
and jam in the gouge. If the lathe didn't stop, or nothing 









Fig. 13. 



Fig. 14. 



Fig. 15. 



broke or gave way, he usually succeeded in jamming off 
considerable wood, but his method was rather hard on tools 
and the lathe. 

The centres for driving work may be of many different 
forms, some of which I have endeavored to show by draw- 
ings. 

Fig. 13 looks and works very nicely while it is kept in 
good order, but it is rather difficult to repair if the wings get 



THE LATHE. 



87 



broken, and it is also one that is expensive to make in the 
first place. That shown by Fig. 14 costs less and works 
fully as well as Fig. 13. This one may have a notch filed 
in one wing to locate its position in the piece to be turned, 
and insure its being always put back in the same position 








jn 




Fig. 16. 



Fig. 17. 



Fig. 18. 



in a job that has been taken out of the lathe for any 
reason. 

The one shown by Fig. 15 is the same as Fig. 14, except 
that a space is cut between the centre point and the wings, 
one of which is wider than the other, to locate its position 
in the piece to be turned. 

Fig. 16 shows a form similar to Fig. 14, except that the 
line of wings form tangents to central point instead of 



88 PATTERNMAKING. 

radial lines. This form may be marked by filing a notch 
in one wing, as in Fig. 14, or by cutting a space, as in 13 
and 15. It is best on all of these four centres to have the 
wings cut away where they join the centre point, as in Figs. 
13 and 15, in order to sharpen the spurs without spoiling 
the centre point; also to give room to turn up the centre 
when necessary. 

Fig. 17 shows two views of another form of spur centre, 
e being an end-view, where ^, k^ i show the location of spurs. 
This is the best form I know of for small work, and its 
having two spurs on one side and only one on the other 
makes it possible to replace any piece of work that has 
been taken out of the lathe, and to be sure that it will run 
true. More points may be left if it is thought best, as in 
making this centre it is turned up with a longitudinal sec- 
tion like /, then the ring at k is cut away, leaving the spurs 
at gf hj if and as many more as you wish. This centre is 
intended to be forced into the work up to the line /w, then 
it has no corners to catch the clothing or rap the fingers. 
This is another good feature. 

The central point on all these different centres should be 
kept a little longer than the spurs or wings. In order to 
locate the centre in the work accurately, keep this point 
always turned true at an angle not over 23°, to avoid 
crowding open the joint on split patterns. 

The tail centre may be an ordinary 60° centre, but this 
form is likely to crowd open the joint, and for a job that 
has a long spell in the lathe, it is liable to wear toward one 
side of a split pattern, as one side is almost invariably 
softer than the other. A centre having a slender point, 
with a ring around it from f to i" in diameter, will prevent 



THE LATHE. 89 

both these troubles. It should have a section like the one 
shown in Fig. 18. 

I have shown both this dead centre,Fig. i8,and the spur 
centre, Fig. 17, as being made from a single piece of steel, 
but an improvement is to put the centre point in as a sep- 
arate piece; and if Stubbs' steel is used for this point, it 
may be easily replaced if it gets broken. 

I have turned small split patterns of hard- wood without 
any fastening but the dowels and such as are afforded by 
centres like Figs. 17 and 18. This wouldn't be a good 
way as a rule, but it shows that the centres are both 
excellent in their way. A centre might be designed for 
live spindle that would safely hold small, light work, and 
would be a desirable tool. 

In preparing work for the lathe it is necessary to provide 
some way of holding split patterns firmly together. Small 
patterns may be held together by gluing a short space at 
each end, beyond the length of finished piece, but if fas- 
tened in this way the turning must all be done before 
separating the pattern. A better way is to put a screw in 
each end, then you may take the work apart as many times 
as you wish. This is sometimes desirable, as, for instance, 
in turning a piece any portion of which is required to be as 
nearly a perfect sphere as possible. After the pattern has 
been centred - accurately in the joint, turn down a place 
opposite the centre of ball to the size required, and make 
a line to locate centre of ball, then take the pattern apart 
and draw the centre line across one half, strike a circle the 
diameter of required ball, having its centre located on line 
already made, and with your knife or a chisel cut off one 
side of pattern to the line of circle, taking care to cut off 



90 



PATTERNMAKING. 



the right side. This will be on the side of joint toward 
you, at the top, as the pattern revolves in the lathe, or hold 
the half pattern with the live centre end toward you and 
the joint up, and cut off the right-hand side. Replace the 
pattern in the lathe and turn down just to this line and you 
will have, practically, a true sphere. Any split pattern, the 
outline of whose surface is composed of curved lines which 
are hard to locate from the outside, may be laid out in this 
way and turned up more accurately than is possible in any 
other way. The lathe should be stopped as often as is 
necessary to note where you must cut away the pattern. 
If your lathe has iron cones on counter and spindle you 
won't get along as fast as you could if they were properly 
provided with wooden cones, as it takes longer to stop and 
start the heavy iron ones. 

Large split patterns may be held together by dogs driven 
in each end, at one or both sides of the centres, or hard- 
wood centres may be used, like Fig. 
19. Iron plates are sometimes used 
similar to Fig. 19, but these are hard 
on the lathe centres, especially the 
tail centre when it isn't in line with 
the spindle, although they may be 
used at the spindle end in connection 
with some form of lathe-dog for driv- 
ing the work. In all cases a wooden 
centre piece at tail end, with a centre 
like Fig. 18, will always wear well and run true. I 
have seen an ordinary face-plate put on head end of 
pattern and then screwed on the spindle. At the same 
time an iron plate was put on the opposite end of pattern 




Fig. 19. 



THE LATHE. 



91 



for tail centre. This is a poor way. How are you going 
to square off the end of pattern for face-plate so that it will 
run exactly true ? that is, supposing the tail centre to be in 
line with spindle. If it isn't in line, it won't make any 
difference whether the end is square with spindle or not — 
it is bound to strain the lathe. 

After the face-plate is fastened on the work and then 
screwed on the spindle, it forms a rigid joint between spin- 



Centrc line of Spindle 



Axis of revolution 



Patternr 



^ 



Tail Centre 



Fig. 20. 

die and work, and they will revolve as one piece, or, more ' 
correctly, will strive so to do. The axis of revolution* will 
be a straight line, drawn from the centre of spindle to the 
tail centre ; and if the tail centre isn't in line, this axial line 
won't pass through the centre of front journal box, so your 
lathe will probably run hot. This is illustrated by Fig. 20, 
where the tail centre is below line of spindle. Heavy split 
patterns should not be run at too high a speed, as the 
centrifugal force generated will spring open the joint, 
and as a result the pattern, when finished, will not be 
round. 

Care should be taken in centring split patterns for the 
lathe. Get the centre exactly in the joint, especially if the 
pattern is to be made of more than one piece; and if it is 

* By this I mean the axis about which the pattern and spindle, now 
held rigidly together by face-plate, would strive to revolve. 



92 PATTERNMAKING. 

only one piece, and has any part of it squared up, how can 
you square it accurately if the pattern isn't parted at the 
centre ? If the pattern is made up of two or more pieces, 
and you get these pieces all centred out of the joint, how 
can you tell when the centres are all located in the correct 
plane? And if the casting is to be hollow, how will you 
make the core-box so as to leave the casting of the right 
thickness throughout? 

There is a way of getting round all these difficulties. 
You may fit your pattern together, making offsets in the 
parting, to keep the centres of all the different pieces in the 
same plane. These offsets give the pattern a kind of rustic 
look, and perhaps the moulder will have to borrow a step- 
ladder to get up and down over these offsetts, in making his 
parting. They will also help to make a poor casting. 
' Another, and a much better way, is to locate the centre 
exactly in the joint of each and every piece. 

Face-plates should be put on with a well-fitted thread 
and a good liberal shoulder. You will find it very easy 
to get one fast on the spindle, if the thread is a loose fit and 
the shoulder small. On the contrary, when they are 
properly fitted, it will be a pretty hard matter to get one 
fast; but as we are all Hable to meet with accidents when 
turning, we may be so unfortunate as to get one stuck 
fast. 

To prevent this I have found a paper washer, well- 
soaked in oil and placed between face-plate and shoulder 
on spindle, to be a good thing. If you have never tried 
this, you will be surprised to see what a difference it will 
make. To keep the dirt from collecting on the thread 
inside face-plate hub, file a notch across the thread on 



THE LATHE. 93 

spindle; just where it becomes a full thread, cut the notch 
to the full depth of thread. Then, if you keep the notch 
clean, it will, in turn, clean out thread inside face-plate. 
This won't work very well if the thread is a loose fit. 

Some lathes intended for very heavy face-plate work 
have no thread cut on spindle, but instead the end of 
spindle is turned to a slight taper, and the face-plate bored 
to fit, and is drawn up to the shoulder on spindle by a taper 
key passing through the hub of face-plate and through 
spindle. A face-plate fitted in this way don't get stuck 
on the spindle. 

A small face-plate fitted to go into the taper hole in either 
live spindle or tail spindle is sometimes very useful. 

A great many tools may be made for the lathe which are 
useful either in saving time or by bettering the quality of 
work turned out, but as these are to a great extent what 
may be called special tools, I shall not mention many of 
them. There are some that are useful to all; among these 
are a chuck for drills and another for bits with square ends ; 
both these chucks should be fitted to either spindle. Then 
a pair of female centres are very handy on small work. 
Make the live one on a very slight taper, that it may centre 
and hold any round piece that will go into the centre. 

In fitting centres, chucks, and all other tools for a speed- 
lathe, you should always keep them as close to the housing 
as possible. In other words, make them as short as you 
can, and as light as is consistent with strength. Weight 
in any part of a speed-lathe which revolves with the spindle 
is something to be avoided, especially where it is in such 
shape as to overhang the bearing; for while it doesn't mat- 
ter much about the weight if it is perfectly balanced, it is 



94 



PATTERNMAKING. 



hard on the front bearing of spindle, where it overhangs 
much. Then, if it is a tool to drive some piece of work, 
the nearer the work is to the journal the better it is for both 
work and lathe. Again, if it, the tool, isn't balanced and 
is also made to project away out toward the other end of 





Fig. 21. 



lathe, you will have hard work to keep the lathe from run- 
ning hot or to turn up a piece of work round and true. 

Fig. 21 shows a pecuhar job of turning. The finished 
piece was to be like the figure, bi being a section at &, and 
ai a section at a. To get this piece I turned a whole cir- 
cle, and after I had spent a couple of hours in chucking 
and rechucking it, and taking great care to have the taper 
both ways very regular, the man who ordered it, and who 
had been standing at my elbow all this time, watching the 
development, kindly informed me that he wanted it to form 
a gate for running a small gear from the bottom of hub. 



THE LATHE. 95 

A piece that would have answered for this I could have 
made in about fifteen minutes, so you may imagine how 
pleased I was to hear what it was for. I felt like throwing 
the piece at his head, but didn't, and I suppose that he 
had the most expensive gate of the kind that a moulder 
ever used. 



CHAPTER XL 

FILLETS. 

The mere thought of fillets is enough to make most pat- 
ternmakers feel tired. Fillets worked out of the solid wood 
of the pattern oftentime resemble almost anything but 
what they are intended for, being more or less cut and 
hacked, and varying in size and shape according to their 
location. They are generally pretty good when they fol- 
low the outside of a curve, but when they are on the inside 
of a curve of short radius, and the grain of the wood runs 
the wrong way, it does seem as though the patternmaker's 
trade was a little the worst business in the world. 

Sometimes wood fillets are made and put into the cor- 
ners, but they are not adapted to crooked corners, and it 
is hard to make the thin edges lay down tight. Even after 
they are put in in good shape, after being moulded a few 
times the edges begin to curl up, and if any glue has been 
used it works out and makes the moulder unhappy. A 
good way, when glue is used, is to wet the outside. Then 
the edges will stay down until the glue sets. 

There have been various ways devised to overcome these 
difficulties. A favorite method is to make the fillet of 
leather. To accomplish this, a plane has been devised 
which, when it is in good order and in skilful hands, will 
shave off a strip of leather with a section like a. Fig. 22. 
* This, after being wet and well rubbed into the corners with 

96 



FILLETS. 



97 



varnish, to make it stick, will look very well if you don't 
expect too much. There will be a hollow wherever a nail 
is driven, and a corresponding fulness at the edge. If the 
angle is very crooked, the leather fillet will look like the 
crimped edge of an old-fashioned pumpkin pie; but any 
little irregularities Uke these can be overlooked, for the 
leather fillet is really a very good 
fillet, having one quality, durabil- 
ity, which other fillets have not. 

Then there are wax fillets, and 
fillets of putty, which look better 
or worse according to the skill and 
tools used. I have found a round 
rod of the same radius as the fillet, 
and having the end turned ofiF 
round, to work first-rate. For 
wax, warm the rod so that it will 
not stick ; for putty, wet it. 

The best fillet made is when it is 
worked out solid. For crooked 
places, the fillet is worked on a 
piece by itself, like b in the cut. 
But, owing to the time necessary to 

do this in good shape, and the consequent cost, it is often 
dispensed with, and some cheaper method used. Putty and 
wax are both cheaper. Wax is probably the most used, 
as it is easier to work and gives better results for the time 
expended. For large fillets, putty is perhaps better after 
it gets hard, which takes a long time. The angles should 
have a light coat of lead and oil, before using the putty, 
or it will not stick. 
7 




Fig. 22 



98 PATTERNMAKING. 

When you turn a fillet between a flange and body, don't 
cut in too deep, like c. This makes the moulder trouble. 
Also, do not go to the other extreme and begin the fillet 
half way across the pattern, like d. 

It is sometimes necessary to make a pattern in a hurry, 
and then perhaps you will be persuaded to let the moulder 
cut the fillets out of the sand. I don't know whether this 
gives the moulder any satisfaction, but, as a rule, the ap- 
pearance of the casting isn't such as to give much pleasure. 
It is hard for the moulder to make a sharp corner of sand 
from the nature of the material; neither is it always prac- 
ticable or advisable to put fillets in all corners, so we shall 
probably go on about the same as usual, some using wood 
or leather and putting in the hard places with wax or putty, 
and giving the moulder, and the man who pays, more or 
less satisfaction — more for the moulder when the corners 
don't break away, and less for the payee when the bill is 
large. 



CHAPTER XII. 

STAVEWORK. 

Patterns for round pieces are made solid when not too 
large or if they are very irregular in outline. When the 
outline is nearly straight, with the exception of flanges, 
which may be put on, the patterns may be made to advan- 
tage by gluing up the stuff in staves. Possibly every pat- 
ternmaker has had some experience with stavework either 
on pipes or cylinder patterns, and each one may have some 
ideas of his own on the subject, or he will if he takes the in- 
terest in his work that he should to insure success. I don't 
mean to say that my way of putting up stavework is the 
best ; still, it will compare very favorably, as regards time, 
with any way I have ever seen. And there may be nothing 
original in this one method, yet it will be new to some, and 
to these I will try to make it plain. 

If your pattern isn't too large in diameter, say 14" or 16", 
you can make the heads out of plank. For larger work a 
better job can be made by gluing up the heads similar to 
cant or segment work, making them in half-circles, closing 
the straight sides, or what will be the joint of pattern, by 
courses of the same thickness as cants and lapped back 
and forth at the joint where they join the circle. You can 
also put in arms where the work is very large. These large 
heads should be jointed together in pairs and then laid out. 
They may be turned if you wish, and then, by working out 

99 



lOO 



PATTERNMAKING. 



the staves on the inside, to fit circle of head, as shown in 
Fig. 26, you will do a first-class job. Another way is to 
space off the heads for as many staves as you want and 
then cut them off, so that the staves may be put on without 




Fig. 23. 



any work on the inside except what may be necessary to 
take them out of wind. For a big job I think this would 
take more time than to work the staves as in Fig. 26. An- 
other point in favor of fitting them up as in Fig. 26 is that 
the staves maybe of almost any width and still come smooth 
on the inside surface of pattern. This will not be the case 
where the heads are cut into polygons unless one is 
very particular to get all the sides of the same length, 
and the inside width of staves the exact width of these 
sides. 

For small heads which are sawed out of plank, if you 
have a cross-cut saw with an adjustable slide for cutting 
bevels you can cut the heads for flat staves without any 
laying out. Joint off one edge of the pieces that are to 
form the head straight and square, set your slide to the 



STAVEWORK. loi 

angle h^ i, k, Fig. 23, and saw all of the heads at one end ; then 
put a stop on the sliding gauge, which will give the heads 
the right length, as from s to f. Fig. 23. Now, by putting 
the end i, which you have already cut to the angle h, i, k, 
against the stop, you may cut the heads to the length and 
also make the side a at the same angle with 5, z, as you have 
already made the side g. 

Now, you must change the slide to the angle of broken 
line hj,ky mark off on one of the sides, already cut, the 
length of side, as from i to k; then, by adjusting the stop 
on slide so that the saw will cut to this point, you can saw 
two more sides on each head, as b and /. Go through the 
same process for each succeeding pair of sides until the 
angle at / becomes too small to work from the sliding 
gauge. 

For the remaining sides cut a piece of board wedge- 
shaped, as in Fig. 24, and at an angle which will make the 




Fig. 24. 

side ;,/ parallel with the side of head you propose to cut 
when the head is laid against the slide in position for cut- 
ting. Fasten a piece on this gauge at n to bring all of the 
heads to be sawed into the same position. Use the fence, 




I02 PATTERNMAKING. 

which is parallel with saw, in connection with this gauge. 
In Fig. 23 the two sides c and e are to be cut by the help 
of gauge, shown in Fig. 24. 

For any number of sides up to eighteen I should saw all 
but the last three by the bevel gauge and the next two by 

the fence and wedge. The last 
side d needs no gauge, as it is 
parallel with side 5, i. Don't throw 
away the gauge. Fig. 24, but mark 
Fig ai; ^ the number of sides on head, bore 
a hole through it, and hang it up 
ready for the next job having the same number of staves. 
The diameter of pipe or cylinder makes no difference with 
the angles. 

You will find when you have finished the heads that they 
are more accurate than would have been the case had you 
tried to lay them out before working. Also, if there is any 
irregularity in one, it will be repeated in each head, so that 
all the faces will come parallel. This, as you see, over- 
comes one difficulty in stavework. You must keep your 
saw in good shape, for you can't do this job with a poor 
saw and make it satisfactory. 

If you are going to close over the joint of your pattern, 
you must saw from the joint of heads the thickness of stuff, 
as shown by broken line (?, Fig. 26, that you will put into 
the joint. I don't think this is any improvement ; in fact, 
I should rather leave the pattern open, and give it a good 
coat of paint inside to keep out the water. If it is closed 
up it will gather moisture inside, and then when the pat- 
tern is laid away the outside will dry first. This will try 
the joints and probably start some of them. If you make 



STAVEWORK. 



103 



up your mind to close over the joint, get out your stuff and 
fasten the heads to it in their right places, taking care to 
get them square with the axis of pattern and all on one 
straight line, else your staves won't fit. For an open pat- 
tern, fasten the heads on a flat board in their places, keep- 
ing them square and all on a line, and setting the end heads 
out far enough to clean up in good shape when you turn up 
the piece. 

I cut up the staves in this way : Make a piece a couple of 
feet long, having a section like r in Fig. 25. Let ^ be a 
section of a stave ; then make the piece ;' of such section as 
will make the angle /, y, x, formed by the combined sections 
of stave and piece r^ a right angle. The width of this piece 
I should make not far from the width of stave. Put this 
piece on saw-table between slitting saw and fence, with the 




Fig. 26. 



thick edge toward saw. Now, having your stuff for staves 
cut up to the right length, the small cut shows a section of 
one of these pieces before sphtting into staves. The lines 
I, 2, 3, 4 show where it is to be sawed. Begin by sawing 
one stave from each piece a little wider than necessary. 



I04 PATTERNMAKING. 

Then you must reset the fence. If the fence is made to 
tilt, set it to fit the bevel or stave. If you can't do this, 
get a piece to lay between fence and bevel edge of stave; 
for, if you gauge the width of stave from long corner, they 
will vary in width with the thickness of stuff used. By 
setting the piece r with the thick edge toward the saw, and 
then tilting the fence to fit the bevel of stave, you gauge the 
width of the staves on the inside surface regardless of the 
thickness of stuff. And then by turning over your stuff 
every time you cut off a stave you can save time and ma- 
terial. You will also be able to cut the staves closer to the 
finished size because you work from the inside of stave. 
This is the side to get to size, as the width of staves on the 
outside is regulated by their thickness. You may, in fact, 
with a keen saw and a good solid saw-table, cut them to 
the exact width and angle. Perhaps, to be on the safe 
side, you had best cut them a little wide, then joint one 
edge of all the staves straight and to the right angle, and 
then you could cut the other edge on the saw, making them 
at the same time of the right width. 

Mark piece r with the number of staves and hang it up 
with the gauge. Fig. 24, for future use. 

If you have made the heads Hke Fig. 23, put on stave d 
first, using screws and counter-boring for the heads so 
that the holes may be plugged. For heads like Fig. 26 
you can begin at the joint, and if the joint is to be closed 
over begin on each side, putting in the top staves d last. 

This will finish up one-half of the pattern. For the last 
half, if it is an open pattern, turn over the half already built 
up, and place the remaining heads, each on its mate, which 
has already been fastened into the first half, then begin 



STAVEWORK. 105 

putting on the staves as before. For a closed pattern each 
half may be built by itself, as it isn't necessary to have the 
heads match as closely as in an open pattern. 

Core boxes may also be made up of staves for a great 
many jobs. For these the heads will of course be on the 
outside. The usual way is to cut the heads out on a circle, 
allowing for the thickness of staves, then set them in posi- 
tion, and fit in the staves, beginning in the bottom. An- 
other way is to glue up the staves without any heads, then 
work out the inside of your box, cut it off to the right length, 
making draft on the ends, then nail on a piece of stuff at 
each end, which will form the head and also the end of 
box as shown by broken line b, a, c, e, Fig. 26. Now turn 
your box bottom side up and glue a block on inside of head 
under each stave. 

Another and better way to put on the heads, after you 
have worked out your box, is to gauge the staves at the 
ends of box to a thickness from the inside. Then cut them 
to this thickness back an inch or two from the ends. Put 
the two pieces for ends of box in the lathe and turn a groove 
that the ends of staves will fit into, and also turn off the 
draft necessary to get out the core, then fasten them on the 
ends of box. Where the staves are put on in either of the 
last two ways it makes a stronger box than when the heads 
are cut out to fit around the outside of staves, for then you 
have a weak place at b and e. If you want any heads be- 
tween the two ends they will have to be fitted around the 
outside of staves. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

CANT OR SEGMENT WORK. 

When we wish to make circular forms that are compara- 
tively thin and fragile, like a pulley rim, or that are ex- 
pected to keep round and true, like a pipe-flange, we can 
improve both the quality and strength of the job by making 
the piece up in layers, or ''courses," as they are technically 
called, each course consisting of six or more pieces, to be 
cut with the grain running in the longest direction of the 
piece; as it would, evidently, be of no advantage to saw 
out, in one complete circle, the material for a course and 
then cut it into segments or "cants." 

In Fig. 27 I show a ring which is made up of ''cants," 
having six cants in each of the four courses. Beginning 
with course A^ we cut six segments; and by the way, one- 
sixth of a circle is spanned by a chord equal to its radius, 
which makes it very easy to lay off the length of the cant, 
and as long as we stick to this division into six parts we don't 
need to make any templets for laying out the work, as the 
first cant laid out for each course forms a templet for the 
remaining five, it being very easy to lay down the length 
of this cant without drawing the full circle. In fact, when 
we have set the dividers or trams for the radius we have 
also set them for the length or chord of the 60° segment. 

To return to course Aj Fig. 27: This first course is set 

106 



CANT OR SEGMENT WORK. 



107 



up on the face-plate, as it is presumed that you will use the 
lathe to face off each course in the process of building up 
the ring. If the finished ring is to be very light, this first 
course may be glued fast to the face-plate, taking the 




I 



Fig. 27. 

chance that the completed ring may spring out of round 
when cut off from the plate. It will usually be found that 
there will be enough glue forced out of the joints between 
the ends of cants in the first course to secure them firmly 
to the plate. If the ring is to be long and heavy, this first 



io8 



PATTERNMAKING. 



course had better be fastened to face-plate by one or two 
screws in each cant, put in from back side of plate after 
the glue in joints of this course has dried. 

In putting on each succeeding course, locate the joints 
between the ends of cants, midway between those of the 





Fig. 28. 



preceding course, as shown by broken lines B, B, in Fig. 27. 
Another method of putting up cants is shown in Fig. 28, 
in which it is seen that but one "course" is made and that 
the cants are tied together by the ' ' feathers " ^ , ^ , ^ . This 
method requires that the cants be fitted together, then 



CANT OR SEGMENT WORK. 109 

grooved for the feathers, which should be made with the 
grain of the wood running directly across the joint. It 
requires some care on the workman's part to bring all of 
the joints together and at the same time have them properly 
glued, still this method is frequently used for short, circular 
patterns. 

In building up light work of this kind, care must be used 
to avoid springing each cant when forcing it into place, or 
it will be found, after the ring is turned off, that each cant, 
so sprung, is striving to regain its normal shape, and the 
result will be anything but pleasing. 

An ingenious way of avoiding this result is to cut the 
cants from very thick stock and to use care in making the 
joints between ends of first course; if possible, make this 
first course thick enough for the complete ring. After this 
first course has been glued to the face-plate and the glue 
has dried, take it to the lathe and face off level, then turn 
circumference of ring and face-plate square with face, take 
the work to the circular saw and cut from its face side, 
holding the true face against the splitting fence, and the 
circumference on surface of saw-bench, all but the thick- 
ness decided upon for the first course. Then return to the 
lathe, face off the new surface left by saw, then, reversing 
the ring cut off by saw, place its faced surface upon the 
first course, not forgetting to turn it round so as to "break 
joints" with the first course, and glue it fast in place. 

Going through the same series of operations a second 
time leaves two courses on face-plate and a somewhat 
thinner ring ready to be glued down for the third course. 
The advantage of this method lies in the fact that you 
have at all times a complete ring to be glued down to 



no PATTERNMAKING. 

face-plate, and as this ring will, or should be, much more 
rigid than any single cant, the danger of introducing 
strains when building up is greatly reduced. 

A good general rule for the thickness of courses is to 
make them somewhat less than the finished thickness of 
ring, measured radially. 

It is not essential to the success of this class of pattern 
work that the joints between ends of cants in each course 
be made "good"; in fact, for most jobs the band-saw will 
make good enough joints for all except first and last courses, 
in a straight ring Hke Fig. 27. 

Where portions of radial joints are exposed on the fin- 
ished surface, they had best be made "close," to preserve 
a good surface. 

Any piece of work made up in this way should be allowed 
to dry thoroughly before working, else the drying of the 
glue is liable to draw the pattern out of shape. If the piece 
is to be cut into two or more pieces, do this before finish- 
ing or turning and thus give the parts a chance to adjust 
themselves to the strains that may have been introduced 
in gluing up. 



PART THIRD. 

SOME EXAMPLES OF WOOD 
PATTERNS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PATTERNS FOR BELT PULLEYS. 

It is evident that a set of patterns for manufacturing belt 
pulleys to any extent must, to be practical, be capable of 
almost endless combinations in order to embrace all the 
different diameters, widths of face, sizes of shaft, and 
length of hubs. The different combinations of sizes would 
at first sight seem to require a great many patterns, each 
one complete in itself; and at the time when it was custom- 
ary to make crooked arms it was almost impossible to 
make a set of patterns that would fit nearly every order 
so that special patterns would be the exception and not 
the rule. 

The present custom of making straight arms has made 
it possible to construct a set of good durable patterns at a 
very reasonable expense, and one from which, by means 
of the great number of combinations made possible, you 
will be able to make a pulley of almost any description, 
provided you carry the system far enough. 

The rings for the rims may be made by sweeps, except 
the small sizes, which will require patterns. These rings 
should be cast thick enough to turn up, inside and out- 
side, before using for patterns. 

It will be necessary to make two, or perhaps three, dif- 
ferent weights of spiders for each ring. If it is desired to 

keep the number of arms uniform all through the set, the 
8 113 



114 PATTERNMAKING. 

difference in weight of the spiders is made by varying the 
size of the arms; or, if strength only is to be considered, a 
pulley may be made heavier by increasing the number of 
arms. I should consider this last way the best, as the iron 
will be distributed better and will consequently make a 
stronger pulley. There are exceptions to this rule, as in 
the case of a pulley having a rib on the inside of rim be- 
tween arms. Such a pulley may be cast with heavier arms 
than one having no rib inside of rim, but this last style 
may be made as strong as the other by increasing the num- 
ber of arms. 

A description of the manner of constructing a single 
spider or a series of spiders will answer for all. 

I have shown in Figs. 29, 30, 31, and 32 the way of mak- 
ing a series of six-arm spiders for different diameters of 
pulleys. Make a pattern for the centre Fig. 31 — this is 
to be of the same thickness as arms, one of which is shown 
in Fig. 29. One arm is all you will find necessary to make 
in wood. I would make this arm a split pattern for the 
convenience of the moulder; or, if you are going to make 
all of your finished spiders in halves, a half-pattern is all 
that you will require. The end next to rim I would cut 
out of hard- wood, in order to keep the fillet in as good 
shape as possible. 

As you have only one arm to work out, you can afford 
to take extra pains in shaping and finishing it. The hard- 
wood end should be made with the grain running in the 
direction of rim, and don't try to make the fillet too thin 
on the edge ; bring it down to an edge, but make the angle 
of edge great enough to mould and run sharp and clean. 
The letter fl. Fig. 29, shows where the hard-wood end is 



PATTERNS FOR BELT PULLEYS. 



IIS 



joined to arm. This end should be put on with screws 
only, for reasons given further on. 

Make the arm the extreme length thought advisable for 
this size of arm, not forgetting that more than six arms 
may be used. 

Have one casting made off of centre piece, Fig. 31, and 
six from arm. Fig. 29. 

Clean up the casting for centre piece, then lay out the 
shoulders b,Cjd, Fig. 31, and file them up accurately — that 
is, make them all at the same distance from 
centre, and drill the holes e, /, g, which shall 
have their centres equidistant and also on 






Fig. 29. 



Fig. 30. 



Fig. 31. 



the line of joint between arm and centre. These half- 
holes may be filed if thought best. The arms should be 
cleaned up, and a pin-hole drilled through the centre, 
and at a short distance from the outer end of each one, as 
at h, Fig. 29. 

Now make a follow-board large enough to lay this 
spider on to mould. Put on the centre piece, Fig. 31, and 
drive a pin at each of the holes e, /, g, etc. ; then from the 
centre a scribe a circle equal to the size of the largest spider 
to be made from these arms; space it off into six parts, 



1 16 PATTERNMAKING. 

marking the six points opposite the pins e, /, g, Fig. 32. 
Draw lines from these points to centre a; these lines will 
be the centre line of each arm. Now mark the position of 
shoulder b, c, d, etc., of centre piece, take off the casting, and 
remove the pins. Lay on one of the arm.s, making its 
centre coincide with the line on follow-board, and the outer 
end with the circle drawn. Hold it in this position and 
drill through the hole h into the board, and drive a pin. 
This pin should be fast in the arm, and the pins at e, /, g 
fast in the board. 

Get the length of this arm to the shoulder of centre piece ; 
fit all the arms on the board in the same way. Mark a 
centre line on each one, and space off, from the inner end, 
such distances as will equal one-half of the difference be- 
tween the diameters of pulleys which you wish to make; 
from this size and number of arms, drill a hole through each 
of these points. Then space off the centre line of each arm 
on the follow-board, beginning at the centre of pin-hole h 
and going toward the centre, making the first space from 
h toward the centre equal to the first space on arm from 
shoulder / toward the outer end, and so making the spaces 
on the board and the arms similar, going toward the centre 
on board and toward the circumference on arms. Drill 
pin-holes in board at each space. Replace the pins e f g, 
lay on the centre and the six arms as in Fig. 32, and it is 
ready for the moulder. Each of the arms will have holes 
drilled as at h, i, j. 

After making one or two castings from this, one for a 
soHd pattern, two for a split-pattern, the six arms are to 
be cut off to the centre of first hole from the end /, Fig. 29, 
then they may be moved up toward the centre, the pins at 



PATTERNS FOR BELT PULLEYS. 



117 



h falling into the second circle of holes in the foUow-board, 
and then we are ready to mould another size of spider. 




Fig. 32, 

Thus we may go on cutting off the arms as shown by lines 
i, jj k, Fig. 29, and making a great many spiders from this 
one set of arms. 

Now, let us illustrate the working. Suppose we wish to 



1 18 PATTERNMAKING. 

make a set of six- arm patterns, each diameter to have three 
sizes or grades of arms, light, medium, and heavy. We 
have made our wood pattern for a 72'' Hght spider from the 
same pattern by reducing the length, as has been explained. 
We will make, perhaps, light, 66'', 60'', 56'', 52'', and 48''; 
then, by still further reducing only the length, we will make 
medium 46'', 44'', 42'', 40'', 38'', and 36''; then below this 
diameter the spiders cast from this set of arms might be 
called heavy until they reach a point where the size of the 
arm is out of all proportion to the diameter. This is not 
intended for an arbitrary rule in making a series of spiders, 
but is given to show the practical working of the system. 
You can, of course, exercise you own judgment as to the 
right point to change the grade. 

Another plan for making the three grades would be to 
vary the number of arms. This can be done by making 
three centres having different numbers of branches on 
each, but making them all of the same diameter, so that 
the spiders made from all three with the same length of 
arms would fit the same ring. In either case, it will require 
but very few wood patterns to make a most complete set 
of iron spiders. 

These iron spider patterns should be accurately centred 
and drilled all with the same size drill for the hubs. I 
would make this hole not over f'; then, in case a pulley 
is ordered with a hub on only one side of spiders, the same 
hole will do for the pin on core print, which wouldn't al- 
ways be the case if the hole was much larger. 

If it is desired to make pulleys with ribs on the inside of 
rim between arms, cast the spiders with the ends of arms 
at a. Fig. 35, left off; then you can use the spider with these 



PATTERNS FOR BELT PULLEYS. 



119 



pieces which are to be cast separately, or with a rib made 
in as many segments as there are arms, and fastened to 
the arms with screws, or in any other way thought best. 

The hubs can just as well be made of wood; then it will 
be easy to make any new or special 
hub. They should all have a f^' pin 
at the centre to fit the holes in 
spiders. Make the hole in outer 
end Y also, in order that the print 
may take the place of the hub, as 
before explained. 

It is a good plan to have the hubs 
fitted with bosses for set-screws, as 
shown at a^ b, Fig. 30. 

The core prints will, of course, all 
have 1^' pins to fit the hubs. 

The core-boxes for hubs may be 
made straight, but it is better to 
have a recess formed in the hub; 
this may be accomplished by a box 
like the one shown in Fig. 33. This 
is a top-view of box, which has one end movable to ad- 
just it to the length of hub. It is then held in place by 
the screw a. The end b is left open to fill the box. 




Fig. 33. 



CHAPTER II. 

PATTERNS FOR CABLE PULLEYS. 

These pulleys, or sheaves, are sometimes made in a 
three-part flask when there is but a single groove, as in 
wheels for conveying power, where the wire or hemp cable 
takes the place of a flat belt. 

There are some objections to this way of moulding 
sheaves, and the principal one is the necessarily fragile 
form it entails upon the pattern. Then the groove in some 
cases is very deep, which leaves a good deal of overhanging 
sand in the mould. As a rule, I think it is better to form 
the groove by cores. This will make a more substantial 
pattern. There will also be less work for the moulder, and 
less risk of losing the casting by reason of the sand break- 
ing away which is to form the groove. 

It will be seen by Fig. 34 that a pattern made to form 
the groove in green sand, by means of a three-part flask, 
would be a very weak affair. It could be made of iron, 
to be sure, but it is really of no advantage to make the pat- 
tern in this shape. I should make it with a core as follows : 

Glue up the rim in cants or segments, putting in not less 
than three courses, and make the middle course (there 
should always be an odd number of courses in a pattern 
which is to have a set of arms in ; or, rather, there should 
be a course in the right place and full thick enough to re- 
ceive the arms, as it makes bad work where a part of two 

120 



PATTERNS FOR CABLE PULLEYS. 



121 



< 

I 


1 
1 


{ 

1 
1 


1 


1 

i 

1 


1 

1 


1 

i 

1 


1 
1 

1 

1 




1 

1 




1 




1 




1 




1 




i 
1 


^ 


I A 



or three courses come within the thickness of the arms) 

full as thick as the arms if they are to be central, and after 

gluing on this course cut the 

arms in far enough across the rim 

to give them a good hold. The 

arms have already been glued 

together at the centre and planed 

off fiat and true. Get the arms 

out Y^ide enough to make the 

fillet where they join the rim, as 

is shown by Fig. 35, where a is 

the rim, b the arm. 

Before gluing the arms into 
rim, it saves time and trouble 
to lay them out and work them 
to the finished shape, except 
where they join the rim. If 
they are to have ribs on each 
side, before fastening on the hubs 
place the hub on a fiat surface 
and thenj fit the ribs up to them, 
holding the ribs on a radial line 
from centre of hub. If the arms 
are tapered in thickness toward 
the rim, you had best put the hub 
in its place and fit the ribs 
against it on the spider. That 
portion of the rim which is in- 
cluded in the thickness of the 
arms must be turned up before putting them in. 

After the arms are fastened in place put on the hubs and 




"f — -i' 



J ' 



Fig. 34. 



122 



PATTERNMAKING. 



scribe around them so as to get the length of ribs. If the 
ribs were fitted against the hub while on the spider, the 
position of each one as regards length could be located by 
a knife mark. After the ribs are fitted against the rim, 
fasten on the hubs, then the ribs. I would cut off the hub 
on one side even with the rim, making the remaining por- 
tion of it loose. This will give the moulder a chance to 





Fig. 35. i 

lay the pattern on a plain follow-board. The ribs on the 
same side of arms may also be made loose, though I should 
rather make them of such shape that they might be readily 
coped off in the mould. 

The shape of core-box in section may be seen by Fig. 34, 
and the length of it will be made to suit your own and the 
moulder's ideas, that is, if you consider the moulder's ideas 
on the subject of any account. If you don't, then look out 
for trouble when the pattern goes to the foundry. 



PATTERNS FOR CABLE PULLEYS. 123 

You have very likely heard how easy it is to lead a horse 
to the brook, but it isn't so easy to make him drink if he 
don't wish to. The same difficulty is encountered in trying 
to make a moulder (or anybody else) do any work that he 
isn't, and doesn't wish to be, interested in the success of. 
There may be men who will honestly do their very best 
under such circumstances, but they are as scarce as hen's 
teeth. 

The first move toward success in any undertaking is to 
get all who are to assist in its completion interested in its 
success, and how can this be done more easily, with the 
man who takes pride in knowing the whys and wherefores 
of his business (and, mark you, these are the men who are 
bound to succeed), than by asking for his ideas on that 
portion of the work which is his specialty, and, if there be 
no objection, letting him do it in his own way? In this 
way you ensure success, because, you see, you not only get 
the advantage of each one's skill, but you also, by leaving 
the manner of doing the work to his judgment, put him on 
his mettle, and he will do the very best he can. Many a 
casting which goes out into the back yard to be broken up 
may trace its downfall back to the designer who knows 
what he wants himself, or to the patternmaker who con- 
siders the moulder not as a mechanic but as a man who 
only knows how to shovel dirt. The designer or draughts- 
man may not understand all the branches through which his 
work must pass before it is completed, and if he is one who 
considers mechanics' ideas of no account he is very likely 
to get left, as the boys say. 

I think it best and cheapest to make the groove in this 
sheave by means of a core, but still, if the moulder wanted 



124 



PATTERNMAKING. 



to make it in green sand and I couldn't convince him of 
the error of his way, I would make the pattern to suit him, 
because, you see, I should want the casting to be as perfect 
as possible. If the pattern is made to suit the moulder 
and then you get a poor casting, you have him in a tight 
place. 

If the moulder makes a success of the job in green sand, 
when you get a sheave to make like Fig. 36 you will be 




Fig. 36 

able to show him that he can also make a good sheave with 
cores, for I think any moulder will admit that it is best to 
make this four-grooved sheave with cores. After he has 
moulded it and finds out how well it works, I presume he 
will acknowledge that a single groove may be made equally 
as well with cores. 

The core prints for the two sheaves are shown by the 
lines a, b, c in Figs. 34 and 36. The dotted lines in these two 
figures show the construction of patterns; h shows where 



PATTERNS FOR CABLE PULLEYS. 125 

the arm is cut into rim, i is the arm in each figure, and /, k 
the ribs on either side. 

The core-box for Fig. 34 had better be parted through 
the centre of groove. For Fig. 36 make the ends of box 
fast to the bottom, which, with the ends, is made of the 
same thickness as core print between Hnes a and c. The 
sides are simply flat pieces, and are both loose, as there can 
be no draft. The outside at b is to be left open for both 
wheels. 

Supposing we wish to make a wheel or sheave with a 
spiral groove on its rim for a rope or wire cable. Such a 
wheel is, I think, sometimes used with hydraulic elevators 
to regulate the flow of water by controlling the valve 
opening. 

The pattern may be made in the same way as the pattern 
for the four-grooved sheave illustrated in my last paper. 
The core-box is to be so made that it forms the spiral 
groove. It will be necessary to make but one part of the 
whole circle for the core-box, the length of this part being 
governed by the size of the wheel. 

Let us divide this core into six parts and let the groove 
make three turns, then the pattern would be of the same 
thickness as an ordinary sheave having four grooves on its 
circumference, and if we have a pattern for a four-groove 
sheave, of the right diameter, we can use it for this wheel, 
as the only difference will be in the core-box. Though 
the casting, in this case, will have some iron in it that is 
unnecessary, and which might be avoided by a special pat- 
tern, let us make one from the pattern which we already 
have, as this will require only a core-box. Make the core- 
box in this way: Get out the bottom of a length equal to 



126 PATTERNMAKING. 

one-sixth of the greatest circumference of wheel and of the 
same radius, and the width must be three grooves, plus one 
groove, on each side, plus the thickness of the two sides of 
the box. The pitch of spiral will be the distance between 
the centres of two adjacent grooves. 

If we make two lines on the surface of the piece for bot- 
tom of core-box, these lines to be located at equal distances 
from the two sides of bottom piece and distant from each 
other one-sixth of the pitch, and then draw another line 
from one end of one of these lines to the opposite end of the 
other, we shall have a line that will represent the pitch of 
groove, and all other lines necessary in locating the grooves 
will be parallel with this pitch and may be laid off from this 
first pitch line. 

The grooves may now be worked out. Get out the two 
sides of box, fit them to the bottom, cut them to the right 
width and of the same length as bottom of box. After the 
grooves are worked out, the ends may be fastened on. 
Make them as wide as the bottom. Now we must fix the 
sides of box so as to allow for the change in position of the 
grooves as they pass around wheel. Let us begin where 
the groove comes nearest to side of rim. Set off from the 
outside groove the thickness of outside flange and draw a 
line through this point parallel with the side of bottom of 
box. When this line reaches the opposite end of core-box 
it will be distant from the groove the thickness of outside 
flange plus one-sixth of the pitch. Transfer this new dis- 
tance back to the first end of box and draw another line 
through this new point, parallel with first line. This line 
will be distant from the first one-sixth of the pitch. Thus 
we will go on until six lines have been located and 



PATTERNS FOR CABLE PULLEYS. 127 

drawn all parallel with the side or core-box, not with the 
grooves. 

Then we will draw six more on the opposite side of 
grooves, and distant from the first six in regular order, just 
the thickness of core print on pattern, as this will be just 
the thickness of prints on cores. It is evident that if we 
set off the thickness of this print from each of the first six 
lines in succession, we shall get the correct positions for 
the last six. The first six should be numbered, then num- 
ber each of the last six to correspond with the number of the 
line that it is spaced from. 

Now, by fixing the sides to each pair of lines in succes- 
sion by either pins or screws, we can make six cores that 
will, if we have been kindly remembered by the core-maker 
and moulder, form a continuous spiral groove, making 
exactly three turns around the circumference of wheel, 
beginning and ending with an abrupt, square shoulder and 
leaving a good deal of iron outside of the groove that is of 
no use. 

Let me first show how to get rid of the square end of 
groove. Suppose we let the groove make 3^ turns, and 
let a portion of each end of groove — equal to yV of circum- 
ference of wheel — be tapered off to suit the job. 

We shall now have a straight groove — or, rather, three 
parallel grooves — reaching five- sixths of the distance 
around wheel. For the remaining one-sixth there will be 
four grooves, the two outside ones being tapered off from the 
centre of this part of circumference toward the outer ends. 

To form these tapered ends of groove, we may make a 
special core-box for this segment of core. If there are 
many castings to make, or where only one or two castings 



1 28 PATTERNMAKING. 

are wanted, we can make these ends in the same box, cut- 
ting only one of them into the bottom of box, beginning 
with the full depth of groove at the end of core-box and 
running out toward the centre. Then make a piece to fill 
up this end when not wanted. A little care on the part of 
core-maker and moulder will make the casting come out all 
right. Make two cores in the full box, and four with the 
tapered end stopped off. In setting the cores, put the ends 
of the two made first, having four grooves, together. 

Now, to get rid of the extra iron in rim of wheel, we shall 
have to make a special pattern, cutting off the rim to the 
required form, and making provision for leaving the ends 
of groove in any required form — say we wish to turn the 
end of cable down through a hole and fasten on the inside 
of rim. 

You will see that the core-box that is to make the greatest 
part of the core for this pattern may have the sides fixed 
at a regular distance from and parallel with the grooves, 
as the cores will all be alike except at the ends of groove. 
If the groove is to make exactly two, three, or four turns, 
we will simply have to make a hole in the core-box at the 
outer end of one of the outside grooves, of such depth as 
will cut through the rim. One hole will do for both ends 
of groove. If the groove is to make three and one-sixth 
turns, we will cut out one side of box for one-twelfth of 
circumference of wheel — the amount cut away to be regu- 
lated by the size of the groove and shape of pattern. Then 
we must work out the groove in this portion of box, ending 
with a hole down into the bottom of box at the centre, or 
finishing the end of groove in any other manner thought 
advisable. We will want a piece to stop off this extra 



PATTERNS FOR CABLE PULLEYS. 129 

groove; for the core box, if originally intended to make 
one-sixth of the full core for a three-turn wheel, would now 
have four grooves for one-half its length. 

For making the last description of wheel we should make 
two cores from the full box and four cores with extra 
groove stopped off. 

The two full cores, by placing the ends having four 
grooves together, will complete the three and one-sixths 
turns to be made by the groove. 

It will be necessary for the moulder to exercise a little 
care in setting the cores, especially in the first wheel, which 
we made off the regular four-groove sheave pattern, as 
these cores must all be placed each in its special place 
except the two cores where the groove begins and ends; 
here the grooves come central with the rim. 

In the last wheel, the cores, with the exception of the two 
full cores, will go either end first. 



9 



CHAPTER III. 

MAKING PATTERNS FOR CHAIN WHEELS. 

Link belts are becoming so common nowadays that it is 
well for every patternmaker to know something about them 
in order that he may be prepared to some extent when called 
upon for an effort in this direction. 

Link or chain belting may not run quite so smoothly as 
leather belting, but there is no slipping, and for this reason 
they are specially adapted to short spaces where gearing 





Fig. 37. 



is not practicable and where leather belts are liable to slip 
if the speed is slow. The motion produced is similar to 
that by gearing. If the diameter of wheels is proportioned 
to the length of the links or pitch, then the motion will be 



130 



MAKING PATTERNS FOR CHAIN WHEELS. 131 



smooth and the speed regular. The more teeth the 
smoother the motion, and vice versa. 

Fig. 37 is a very common form of a chain wheel, and is 
made for an ordinary link chain forged from round iron. 
A wheel for this chain may be 
made in several ways as re- 
gards the position and shape of 
the teeth or lugs which give the 
chain a hold upon the wheel. 
Some forms are made very 
cheaply, both as regards pattern 
work and cost of moulding; 
others, being more complete, 
will cost more, but to offset this 
they will wear longer, and also 
tend to prolong the life of the 
belt by presenting more wear- 
ing surface. The form shown 

in Fig. 37 is the most complete, and is also the most ex- 
pensive as regards pattern work. A portion of the rim 
is shown in section at a ; 6 is a cross section of same wheel, 
and c is the chain used. 

Taking all things into consideration, the best way to 
make these wheels is to form the groove on rim by a core. 
You may make the core in sections, but usually it is best 
to make a whole box unless it is a very large wheel. 

This box may be turned in the lathe to the shape shown 
at df Fig. 38. If you make a whole box it should be parted 
on the line g, h. 

The advantages of a whole box over a segment box are 
greater accuracy, fewer poor castings, and less work for the 




1 3 2 P ATTERNMAKING. 

core-maker and moulder. It is also better for the pattern- 
maker, as he is less liable to make a mistake in the pitch of 
the wheel. The cores will 'always fit the moulds, while 
segment cores are very frequently a little too long or too 
short ; this, of course, destroys the accuracy of the spacing. 

Perhaps you may think that if the segment cores are 
made the right length they will always fit the mould. So 
they would, but after the box is made just the right length, 
which is not easily done, and in calculating for which you 
must be acquainted with the core-maker and also the 
moulder; and in a great many cases where you know the 
core-maker or moulder you will also know that the cores or 
moulds get better as the last pay-day gets farther away. 
After all this we shall still have to take the chances of bak- 
ing. All joking aside, however, we will allow, as perfec- 
tion is something rarely attained, that it is easier to get a 
good job from a whole box. Again, if the core is made in 
halves they are a bad thing to paste together accurately; 
and as for the extra work in making the whole box, you 
will find that the moulder will save the cost of that in mak- 
ing a very few moulds. 

I have shown the core-box in section in Fig. 38. It has 
one side of the print left open all around. The core is 
rammed up through this opening and struck off level, then 
by lifting off the part marked a the core may be turned out 
on a plate and dried. The outside edge of print is made 
with plenty of draft, to facihtate turning the core out of 
core-box and to make it easier to place the core central in 
the mould. After our box is turned to the shape shown at 
d, Fig. 38, the next thing is to space it up. The most com- 
mon fault with all chain and sprocket wheels is in the spac- 



MAKING PATTERNS FOR CHAIN WHEELS. 133 

ing — the length of the spaces being different from the 
length of the Hnks. I will try to explain how this may be 
avoided to a great extent. Measure off a portion of the chain 
eighteen or twenty inches in length, being very careful to 
get exactly full links, say ten Hnks are found to be exactly 
twenty inches long, which makes each one two inches. In 
this way we reduce any error in measuring the length of a 
single link into as many parts as there are links in the space 
measured, on the principle that you can measure a single 
space with about the same degree of accuracy each time. 
It makes no difference what the length of the space may be, 
provided that it is less than the length of the scale or rule 
used to measure with. 

This would ordinarily bring the space within two feet, 
the length of an ordinary rule. If, then, you could measure 
a single link within .01 of an inch you could also measure 
ten links within .01 of an inch, then by dividing this space 
into ten equal parts we have reduced the error in the length 
of a single link to .001 of an inch. We should of course 
measure the chain with a standard rule and then take the 
same space from a shrink rule before dividing in single 
links. 

The diameter and spacing of this wheel need not be so 
absolute as in making gear-wheels; still, the teeth in a single 
wheel should be all alike in order that the motion produced 
by it may be regular. 

To lay out the box we will make two templets, as shown 
in Figs. 39 and 40. These are made with a gauge piece 
that is placed against the part of the box that corresponds 
with the largest circumference of wheel. We will use the 
one marked Fig. 39 first, then with a templet like Fig. 41 we 



134 



PATTERNMAKING. 



will work out the spaces laid off by 39, which, by the way, 
will be only every other space. After these are finished lay 
off the alternate links by templet 40, using a second templet 




Fig. 39. 



Fig. 40. 



like Fig. 42 to gauge the depth of this last cut. This com- 
pletes the core-box ready for varnish. If there are to be 
many cores made from this box it will be best to make it 
of iron, which may be made from either a wood or plaster 
of paris pattern. In case an iron box is wanted it will be 
possible to make it from a pattern of only one half or one 



\ 

V 



* 






r 




\ 

\ 




/^ 

1 



Fig. 41. 




Fig. 42. 



side of the rim, by making the upper part of box first, 
then adding the bottom and outside to pattern before mak- 
ing the second casting. 
The pattern should have the rim glued up in segments, 



MAKING PATTERNS FOR CHAIN WHEELS. 135 

with the arms cut in, as explained in my articles on " Cable 
Pulleys." 

A cheap wheel of this kind may be made by turning the 
core-box out to the size and shape of the chain — by this I 
mean of such size and shape that the chain will lay in the 
groove. Then to give the chain a hold on the wheel at 
every second or fourth link of the chain, two little pieces, 
a' a', Fig. 37, are fastened in the box, one each side. These 
pieces must be of such size and shape that they will go be- 
tween the links of the chain as it lays in the wheels. This 
box is much easier to make, and it costs less, but the wheel 
does not wear as long, neither does it give the firm hold 
which the other form affords. 

[The pieces marked a' a\ referred to in the description 
of the last form of wheel, using the chain c. Fig. 37, are also 
a part of the first wheel, as will be seen by studying both 
a and &.] 

There are other ways of making these wheels, but as 
the two ways I have explained are the extremes, one being 
the most complete while the other has probably the least 
work it is possible to get along with, all other ways come 
between these two, being more or less complete copies of 
Fig. 37, and need not, therefore, have a special description. 

Another form of chain is the one the construction of 
which is shown very plainly by the two views at c, c, Fig. 
43 ; the links may be either punched from sheet-metal or 
cast ready to rivet together. This is a cheap chain, for the 
pieces are all alike and easily put together. 

The pattern for the wheel is also a simple thing to make. 
The rim should be laid up in segments similar to rim in 
Fig. 37. This rim has three rows of teeth on its circum- 



136 



PATTERNMAKING. 



ference, the two outside rows being placed so that the 
teeth in one row come opposite the ones in the other out- 
side row, while the middle row has the teeth opposite the 
spaces in outside rows. The middle row must be made 






Fig. 43- 



by cores, and in turning up the pattern we make allowance 
for this by leaving that portion of the rim which is covered 
by this row of teeth wider than the two sides, this width 
to be such that the cores, which will be described farther on, 
will not topple over into the mould and cause the moulder 
to break all of his New Year's resolutions. 

The edge of the rim will thus be divided into three equal 
portions, the diameter of the two outside parts being the 
same, while the centre has a radius greater than either side 
by an amount equal to a little more than the depth of the 
teeth. 

We should put a line on each side of the rim, to mark the 
bottom of teeth. The outside rows may then be laid out 



MAKING PATTERNS FOR CHAIN WHEELS. 137 



by a pair of dividers and worked down to central part; 
this part should then be laid off and cut through, leaving 
prints, as shown by dotted lines at d, Fig. 43. Perhaps a 
more substantial way of making the prints for the centre 
row of teeth will be to turn the rim square across and put 
on the core prints, each one by itself. In this, way each 
single print is formed of one piece of wood, which might 
not be the case if they were cut out of the rim. 

The core-box is shown at Fig. 44, and should be fitted 
very nicely to the print in order to have the cores stand in 
just the right places. 

This kind of a wheel may also be made in a cheaper form 
by leaving off all but the centre row of teeth, keeping the 
rim of the same thickness as the chain, to give it a good 




Fig. 44. 

support and also to keep it from becoming jammed be- 
tween the teeth. 

There are several styles of sprocket-wheels made with a 
single row of teeth, one of the plainest of which is shown 
in Fig. 45, a being a section of the rim showing projection 



138 



PATTERNMAKING. 



of teeth, b a cross section of the same, and c the chain used. 
The chain is cast, each link by itself, and then riveted to- 
gether. 

While the chain and wheel shown in Fig. 37, and also 
the one in Fig. 43, will work equally well in either direction, 
this one (Fig. 45) is intended to move in one direction only, 
as shown by the arrow. 

In this wheel, as the arms are as thick as the rim, we 
will let them in part way through the rim, as shown by 






Fig. 45. 

dotted lines at d^ Fig. 45, and secure them by nails. The 
rim should be laid up in not less than three courses of seg- 
ments, and the teeth had better be put on separately, as, if 
we make them a part of the rim, we may have bad work 
when we come to laying and working them out, whereas 
if we put them on each one by itself we shall have each 
tooth made of a single piece of wood. 



CHAPTER IV. 

PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 

It would not be possible for me to give a detailed account 
of all the different ways of making cylinder patterns and 
core-boxes. In these days of almost universal use of 
steam-engines there are so many different makes that it 
would be quite a task to simply name them all, without 
going into particulars. 

The larger part of slide-valve engines have the same 
general form of cylinder, with the steam- chest on one side; 
some are steam- jacketed, and a good many have the front 
cylinder-head cast as a part of the bed-piece. 

In Figs. 46 and 47 I have shown a cylinder of the plain 
slide-valve type and having a steam-jacket, with the steam- 
chest at one side and to be fastened to the bed-piece at one 
end. If it is a cylinder of any size, make the body of staves, 
following the directions given in Chapter XII, on stave- 
work. I should prefer to leave the pattern open inside. 
Some would object to this, because they say the moulders 
would knock out the heads. Well, the moulder must be 
allowed some way of working off his excess of muscle, and 
perhaps swinging a sledge against the heads in a cylinder 
pattern is as cheap as any other method. If you cover 
over the joint he will soon make a hole through this cover- 
ing with his rapping- iron, then the pattern will fill up with 
sand. Put in the heads so that they will stand a good deal 

139 



I40 PATTERNMAKING. 

of pounding, fasten on the staves so that the moulder can't 
knock them off, then he may pound it all over inside with- 
out doing any serious damage. You may think that a 
rapping-iron should prevent all this, but the moulder will 
rap his pattern where he thinks it will stick the most, re- 
gardless of the rapping-irons. 

Of course it makes all the difference in the world who the 
moulder is. Some will pound everything, on principle, I 
suppose; even the inside of the rim of gear patterns doesn't 
escape their attention; and still, when you think of some 
of the patterns they are expected to get good, smooth 
castings from, perhaps they are not so much to blame. 
Patternmakers are too apt to throw all the blame on the 
moulder, who might have made a much better casting if 
the pattern had been made to suit him. If you are to make 
a pattern for some new form of casting, better get the 
moulder's ideas on the subject and tell him what you think 
about it. Very likely both will be benefited by this inter- 
change of ideas, and you can get a better casting with less 
trouble all around. Isn't it more to your credit, and also 
to the moulder's, to get a perfect casting the first time, 
than only to get it at the second or third trial ? 

You can't expect a moulder to be over-particular about 
moulding a pattern which has been constructed contrary 
to his expressed wishes. It is no more than natural for 
him to wish for a chance to say "I told you so " when the 
casting comes out bad. By keeping on the right side of 
the moulder, and perhaps feeding him a little "taffy" — not 
too much — we can make the pattern to suit ourselves, and 
thus get the credit of making the job quickly and also 
making it well, because, don't you see, the proof of the 



PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 



141 



pattern lies in the casting, and the moulder will make the 
casting. But I am afraid we are getting our moulding 
done before the pattern is ready. 

Let us turn up the body of the cylinder, keeping the size 
equal to the outside diameter of cylinder, as from a to b. 




/- 



Fig. 46. 

Fig. 46, and cut in the flanges, giving at least a quarter of 
an inch depth under the size of print. If the flanges are 
to be changed, put them on with screws. After the glue 
has set (that is, if you use any), put the pattern back in 
lathe and finish turning. I have not said anything about 
the parting, because the figures show it very plainly — line 



142 



PATTERNMAKING. 



w, n, Fig. 47. In some cases it would be possible to 
mould valve-seat down and thus do away with the steam- 
chest core. Fit on the steam-chest and whatever else 
there is to put on the outside, screwing everything fast 
from the inside of pattern. Here, you see, is another ad- 
vantage of leaving the pattern open. If you covered it 




Fig. 47. 



over you would have to fasten everything from the outside, 
which would take more time and not be as good when 
done. 

You will notice that the core print for steam-chest — 
broken line m — has a good deal of draft on the end. This 
is to enable the moulder to set this core without disturbing 
the port cores. 

When the pattern is done, give it a coat of varnish on 
the outside and a coat of paint inside. If the outside is 



PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 143 

to be left wood color, take pains to keep it clean, else it 
will look bad when shellacked. 

It probably isn't necessary to say that dirty varnish 
won't make the pattern look any better. If you put on 
black varnish it is possible to cover up a great many defects. 
Black varnish is like charity — it "covers many sins." 

I like light- colored varnish, both as regards looks and 
actual worth. It makes a better surface than any colored 
varnish can, and consequently moulds better. I think, 
too, that a moulder handles a light-colored pattern more 
tenderly. If he is one who takes good care of the patterns 
entrusted to him and gets one to mould that shows good 
workmanship and moulds nicely (two points which always 
go together), he will use extra care in handling it; and if 
he is a moulder who doesn't care, and only works because 
pay-day is coming, he won't maul a light pattern so much, 
because a mark on its surface shows plainer and looks so 
much larger than the same one on a black pattern, and 
might cause him to lose all interest in the coming of pay- 
day. 

Wherever you put in a screw, counterbore for the head, 
and then you can plug it up — the hole, I mean; not the 
head. But don't make your plug endwise of wood for a 
hole which is bored crosswise. Nails should be set down 
below the surface and the holes filled with wax or putty. 

For a large cylinder, the body will probably be made 
without a box, so that the only thing we care to know about 
is the diameter. 

The core for steam-chest had better be made whole, for 
the top and bottom may not be alike, and a whole core is 
better anyway. The core is shown in Figs. 46 and 47. 



144 



PATTERNMAKING. 




The bottom is first made with the valve-seat built on it; 
also the part of cylinder body which forms the bottom of 
steam-chest. The prints for steam and exhaust ports are 
shown at i, j, k. Then the four sides of steam-chest are 
copied by the four sides of box. Take pains to have this 
core-box the same length as print, otherwise the port cores 
won't come right. The top of the box 
is to be cut to match the draft on pat- 
tern. The four sides should be fast- 
ened together by screws; then after 
removing the screws you will perhaps 
find it a great help to draw each side 
away from the core by itself. It will 
enable you in a great many cases to do 
away with loose pieces, which you 
should always strive to avoid, as they 
are a perpetual bother. Give the prints 
for steam ports plenty of draft, so that they may draw 
clean and also make it pleasant for the moulder in set- 
ting the cores. 

Now the box for port cores. If the ports in valve- seat 
are located centrally on the body of cylinder, and the steam 
ports are alike on both sides, one box will do for both cores. 
This box I have tried to show in Fig. 48, although in this 
case it would be necessary to have two boxes to avoid 
cramping the exhaust opening. The core is given an extra 
crook on the lower side to give the exhaust more room. 
To make the box, get out the top j from ^ to a on a radius 
equal to diameter of cylinder, plus thickness of body, plus 
thickness of core. Then the bottom i on a circle the thick- 
ness of port core less, making a joint at g in top and at h 



Fig. 48. 



PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 145 

in bottom. The rest of the box is put on the opposite way 
of grain of wood, as plainly shown in the figure. This 
avoids the short grain you would leave at each end if you 
attempted to make the box all one way of the wood. You 
must be accurate in the dimensions of this box, else the core 
won't fit. The end of box next the cylinder should be cut 
to the circle of main core as may be seen by Fig. 47, The 
steam- chest end should have the prints formed to closely 
fit the prints on valve-seat. Care should be taken in lay- 
ing out these core-boxes, also the exhaust core-box, to keep 
an even thickness of metal all around. This core-box is to 
part at c and /. The print end of this box shows at c, where 
finish is to be left in port openings to admit of squaring 
them up. The line e, d is face of valve-seat with finish 
added. The broken lines a, g show the shape of core 
through centre of box. This form is also shown in Fig. 
46. 

You may have to make two boxes, or two halves of two 
boxes, if the openings in valve-seat are not located centrally 
on cylinder. This is not usual in slide-valve engines, but 



a 



Fig. 49. 

in vertical cylinders for marine engines with oscillating 

valves it is quite common, and for these the port cores are 

generally made in halves with the joint in same plane as 

joint in pattern. The box is built on a flat board which 

forms the outside edge of core, and the sides of box are cut 
10 



146 PATTERNMAKING. 

through where the core runs parallel with the body of 
cylinder, usually at the outside end as at g, Fig. 48, so as 
to leave a piece of a length equal to the difference in length 
of the ports. This piece fits both ends and enables the 
core-maker to make the half- cores in pairs. The two port 
cores, the exhaust core and steam-chest core, are all made 
together for this form of cylinder. 

The exhaust core is another crooked box to lay out. 
Starting from the square opening in valve-seat, it goes down 
to body of cylinder, increasing in width toward the opening 
into pipe. This core is generally calculated to remove all 
superfluous iron between valve seat and body of cylinder. 
I have shown this core in section across the cylinder in Fig. 
47 ; also a section lengthwise of cylinder is shown in Fig. 
46, and a view parallel with valve- seat is given in the figure 
of exhaust core-box, Fig. 49. This is a top view of exhaust 
box, the broken lines showing the shape of core as it goes 
down toward cylinder and increases in width toward the 
discharge at a. Fig. 49. This box parts vertically on line 
a, h. You should have a print on the outside of steam- 
chest to receive the end of this core, as shown by broken 
lines h, in Figs. 46 and 47. 

After you have completed these port core-boxes you will 
probably agree with me in saying that they are a crooked 
job, and also one that to a certain extent shapes itself, 
for the steam ports must not offer any unnecessary resist- 
ance to the passage of the steam, and they must be kept 
close down to the body of the cylinder, that the cylinder 
wall may also form the wall of port. The steam port must 
also be kept out of the way of exhaust. In short, these 
three holes are to be kept as closely together as possible, 



PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 147 

and must have an even thickness of iron all around to 
insure a good casting. 

If your cylinder is to have a steam-jacket as at 0, 0, 0, Figs. 
46 and 47, there is also a box to be made for this core. 
Probably the most common way of supporting this core is 
shown by broken lines e, g, Fig. 46. The square holes 0, 0, 0, 
Fig. 47, form the connection between the jacket cores and 
the prints for same. This jacket core is made in two, four, 
six, or eight parts, according to the size of cylinder, so that 
the cores resemble staves. Provision must be made in 
this box for the passage of steam and exhaust ports through 
steam-jackets, for connecting cyhnder cocks, and for sup- 
ports between body of cylinder and jacket, as show^n at n, 
Fig. 46; also for any other points where the jacket core 
must be cut away. 

Make the box for whatever part of the full circle you 
wish, to the radius of outside of core, and put sides on the 
box of a height just equal to the thickness of jacket core. 
The ends must be as high as thickness of print, from g to p, 
Fig. 46. The inner surface of core to be made by a sweep, 
resting on and guided by the top of ends. 

You will also want a box for steam opening in steam- 
chest, at /, Figs. 46 and 47, and a box for stuffing-box, 
where valve-rod enters steam-chest at w*, Fig. 46. The 
print at / should be long enough to balance core, otherwise 
the shape of core is plainly shown in the figure. 

For very small cyHnders I would make the port cores, 
exhaust core, and steam-chest core, and possibly the body 
core, all in one, in order that all of the cores should come 
in the right places. 

The cover for steam- chest is not a very difficult pattern 



148 PATTERNMAKING. 

to make; the trouble lies in keeping it straight after it is 
done. It is evident to any one that a flat piece of wood in 
the shape of this pattern is very liable to warp. The com- 
mon way of preventing this is to screw on some pieces 
across the flat side; these are to be stopped off by the 
moulder. A better way, and one that is usually successful, 
is this: 

Select a good piece of lumber lY or 2'' thick which has 
no shakes and has kept flat and straight while drying. 
Saw this board into strips of a width equal to thickness of 
stuff you will need to get the pattern out of. The stuff 
should be dressed down flat and straight before sawing 
up. This makes all the joints much quicker than could 
be done after the stuff is cut into strips. Lay the strips 
down side by side in the position they occupied before 
sawing apart. Suppose them to be numbered i, 2, 3, 4, 
etc., beginning at one edge of the original piece. No. i will 
be the first strip cut from the edge; place 2 on top of i, then 
3 on 2, and 4 on 3, and so on to the end. Glue them to- 
gether in this shape, and you will have a piece of stuff that 
will keep straight in places where the original board 
wouldn't stand at all. 

After this piece has been dressed to the right thickness 
put on the strip which forms the extra thickness of cover 
around the edge. When this piece runs across the grain 
of the first piece don't use any glue, because, when the first 
piece swells or shrinks, if you have glued anything across 
the grain it will tend to prevent that side from shrinking 
or swelling with the rest of the piece, and when a board 
shrinks or swells more on one side than on the other the 
board warps. So put on whatever goes across the grain 



PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 



149 



of a pattern like this with nails, thus allowing the board to 
come and go, which will tend to keep it in better shape. 

This manner of constructing the pattern is for a cover 
which is simply a flat piece of iron. If it has ribs running 
across it perhaps these may be in such shape as to keep it 
flat without any further precaution. 

The valve shown in Fig. 50 is a plain Z)-valve, and can 
be made to leave its own core by making the pieces which 
form the shoulder at c, c loose. To make the pattern, get 
out a piece of stuff having a section like a and long enough 




Fig. 50. 

to go way around the pattern at the lower side, then you 
can mitre the corners and glue the whole together on a flat 
surface. After the glue has set, nail the joints. Get out 
the piece which is to form the face, leaving the parts marked 
c, as they must be loose. 

This part forming the face had better not be mitred at 
the corners; cut the sides between the ends, thereby cut- 
ting a gain in the side pieces. The loose pieces will be held 
in place by the tenons and shoulder. If this loose section 
extends all the way round, leave a good shoulder as at c, 
then mitre the loose pieces at the corners, then when all 
are in place they will support themselves. In case it is 
considered best to make this pattern with a core for the 
inside, I would make it solid, putting on a print at the bot- 



I50 



PATTERNMAKING. 



torn about y thick. Make the core-box with a joint at the 
upper edge of flange on Hnef/, c?, not forgetting to put a piece 
in box to form that part of the sleeve for valve stem which 
shows on the inside of valve. The core prints for the valve 
stem should be carried down to the body of valve and given 
plenty of draft, then make the core-box so that the core will 
fill up the prints. 

The piston, as I have shown it, is made all in one piece 
and cored out. This, I suppose, would be condemned by 




Fig. 51. 

some builders, who would prefer to make the piston in two 
parts and bolt them together, which would also do away 
with the necessity for a core. 

Glue up the ring to form pattern in cants or segments, 
cutting the heads into the ring on each side, turning a recess 
to receive same, and putting in some pieces across the grain 
of heads, between them, to support them. Now put on 



PATTERNS FOR STEAM CYLINDERS. 



151 



four prints to support core, placing at points marked a in 

Fig- 51- 
If the supporting partitions in casting are put in in the 

shape I have shown, the core will be all in one piece, and 




Fig. 52. 

can be supported by four prints, as I have shown. If the 
partitions are carried completely across, thus dividing the 
core into segments, then each segment must be supported 
by from one to three prints. As the holes made by prints 
in castings have all to be tapped out and plugged, the fewer 
holes the fewer plugs to fit in. 

Make your core-box by building up a ring in cants on 
a good bottom piece which is thick enough to get in the 
length of prints. After the ring is turned out, space off 
and cut the four holes which will form the prints on cores. 
Then fit in the radial ribs, as shown in Fig. 51, and your 
core-box is done. Fig. 52 is a section of piston. 

If the core is divided by ribs into segments the core-box 




Fig. 53 

will also be only a segment of the whole core. The hole 
for piston-rod will require a core-box. 

The cylinder-head. Fig. 53, should also be glued up in 



152 PATTERNMAKING. 

cants, putting the inner side next face-plate. In gluing 
up, and when you get to the right height for putting in the 
outside head, turn off the face of cants, cut a recess to re- 
ceive the head, and, after fitting it in, glue on the flange in 
three courses of cants. I always try to put not less than 
three courses of cants in any piece for a pattern, as one 
course is really no better than a ring made of one piece, 
and two courses won't stay in shape, therefore three courses 
is the least that you can put in and make a good job. 

This cylinder-head is shown cored out in the same shape 
as piston. The prints for supporting core will probably 
be located on the inner head, and the core box should be 
made in the same way as box for piston. If the cylinder 
is a part of a tandem compound engine, the head would 
have a stufiing-box and gland for rod connecting to the other 
piston. 

The gland for stuffing-box on steam-chest for valve-rod 
will require no explanation. 



CHAPTER V. 

ONE WAY OF MAKING A CROSSHEAD. 

I WAS going to tell where the pattern shown in the figures 
was made, but I will leave that out and only say that I was 
given the pattern to make from a blue-print of the finished 
piece, and was given all instructions necessary as to finish, 
core prints, etc., and was also told that it was to be made 
in a three-part flask. 

Although there had been other sizes of the same piece 
made, which I had seen in a general sort of way, I couldn't 
for the life of me tell how it should be made for a three- 
part flask; but I could see very plainly how it could be 
moulded in a two-part flask, and after some further talk 
it was agreed that it should be so made. 

It was required to mould the flanges a, b down to keep 
them as free from dirt as possible. The centre pin was to 
have a hole cast through it, for oihng, I believe. The 
piston-rod socket was to be cored through, as shown by d 
in Figs. 55 and 56. 

Fig. 54 is a section through lines y, k; Fig. 55 is a section 
through g, h, Fig. 56 a section through e, /, while Fig. 57 is 
a section on lines passing through rod end. The letters 
refer to similar parts in all the figures. Outlines of core 
prints and partings are designated by dotted lines. 

Get out the two flanges a, b to the width shown in Fig. 
54 at ij and across one end — the end toward cylinder; fit 

153 



154 



PATTKRNMAKING. 



a piece having a width eciual to the distance from / m to w, 
Fig. 56, and thick enough to reach from the lower side of 
llanges up to the centre line c, /, Fig. 54. This piece should 




Fio. 54. 

be long enough to reach across the flanges, and should be 
cut into them half their thickness. The side of this piece 
toward centre pin is then to be cut away, as shown by 
dotted hues between d and n in Figs. 55 and 56. 

The sides of the crosshead are then gotten out and fas- 
tenetl together by that part of the piston-rod end of pattern 




Fk; 55. 

which is inside the end of flanges at /, w, Fig. 56. This 
piece must be Htted into the recess cut in lower lialf at n. 



ONE WAY OF MAKING A CROSSHEAD. 155 

The sides must be placed a little further apart at the top 
than the bottom, to make the pattern draw nicely. Don't 
make too much draft as it will make trouble for the 
moulder in cutting down to centre of pin, and also make 
the casting look bad. The outside of side pieces may be 
nearly square. Now get out some fillets as are shown 




above a and 5, Fig. 54. They should be made of hard wood 
in order to preserve the edge which meets the flange, and 
is liable to be broken off, as the parting is made between 
the fillet and the flange. The fillet is made in the shape 
shown for the same reason. 

Then the centre pin c is turned up as a split-pattern, 
the facing pieces, which also form the shoulders at each 



'.sf 



IWrrKUNMAKlNG. 




Fu! 57. 



iMul of pin, to Ih> iwailr si'parati'ly and in halv(\s. Their 
thiiUniss inusl be surh as to allow lor tho ilraft on side 
pii\i\s. Wcvc is sonuMhing tliat it will pay to rrnKinbcr: If 

we make the draft on these shoul- 
tiers, from thi> ]>in to their eiuann- 
fiM'iMiee, equal to the draft on siile 

fiiMu eiMitre line (', / to tlu* top, 

thiM\ after thi>se piiH'es are fastiMied 
t(^ sidles thi V nia\ 1h' plamnl olT 
sipiariMvitli tlu' ecMitii^ o\ pin with 
out destii^yinj', tlie draft, and tluis 
makinr: it easy io eut in tlie eentre pin, and it makes a 
neat job. The ilovetails shown i\uh ^muI o\ eentre pin 
should be eut throu'^h to the bottom oi llans;i^and well fast- 
ened \o the tlani^je. as tin y are all that kei^ps the lower h;df 
oi pin, {o whiih thi^N avc also fastiM\cil, in plaeo. 

That portion of tlie rod end oi pattern wliieh projects 
beyi>nd ti\i" ends of tlani;es mav nmv he turned uj> anil 
tastiMii\l in pkue, makim; it in two pieees, parted through 
thi^ eei\tre. This pattern minis no dowel ]>ins and is now 
ready for the eore prints. The one marked mav be 
made with the end oi the erosshead; the one at ;; should 
run down to the parting at top of flanges or wings. The 
prints at eaeh end of eentre pin slunild also nm down to 
the flanges. 

This looks like a erooked pieee of work, but in reality it 
is very easy to n\ake, and the moulders were very much 
pleased with it, and eonsequently the easting looks sliek 
and elean; in faet, all the si/i^s whieh had jneviously been 
made for {hvcc j\ut llasks were sent for and ehangcd to 
mould in the wav I have sliown. 



ONE WAY OF MAKING A CROSSHKAD. 157 



There are two corC'boxe» t/^ nmkc for ihiu job. Fig. $8 
is the U^x for piston -nxl socket, and jji taf>ererl as shown, 
with a rwx'fts at one end — the smalU^st end — that the cx»re 
m;iy fjJI up the j^rint in mould. Fij^. 59 Is tJie \j(jx for centre 




Fig- sb. 




Fig. 59. 



pin. This box has a recess at both ends to fill up the 
mould. Oon't forget to leave a comer at a in both ends 
of box rorrr:- ponding to a section of the fillet between 
sidc-s and flanges, thus making the core so that it will leave 
intact the fillet between sides and flanges on casting. 



CHAPTER VI. 

MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 

We sometimes get the whole design to work from ; then 
we have smooth saiHng, because we have comparatively 
no responsibility beyond what we have in the construction 
of all patterns. When we have given us the pitch, number 
of teeth, and are expected to furnish the rest, if the casting 
comes out right the "boss" gets the glory, and if it doesn't 
come all right we must shoulder the blame. Isn't that 
about the way it works? 

As we always find out the size of tooth first, we have 
that to start on. Now let us make the rim with a section 
equal to section of tooth at pitch line. Give it plenty of 
draft (one side must cope out, you know), and add the rib 
inside rim, shown by Fig. 60 in section. The arm I 
should make straight and with a rib on each side, having a 
smaller section than the rim. Fig. 61; then let the arms 
taper to a size at the hub that will give them the same 
strength in proportion to the strain as the outer end of 
arm. The arm is to be of the same thickness as rib shown 
inside rim. 

The edges of arms and the rib inside rim are not rounded, 
but the section shows a point. This gives the moulder a 
guide for the parting, and the casting will look better than 
when the moulder puts on this edge. 

Commence with the rim, so regulating the thickness of 

158 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 



159 



courses as to have a joint come up to the top of arms. 
After this course is on, turn up the rib as near the finish 
as possible. In the time between courses, and as it is best 
to wait for the glue to dry, and not use nails, right here let 
me say that it is nearly always possible to wait for the glue 
to dry in laying up courses. 

There is on most jobs other stuff to get out. If your glue 
is right and the weather is right, you need not wait over 






Fig. 6o. 



Fig. 6i. 



Fig. 62. 



thirty minutes for any job. I have faced off a course that 
had been on only ten minutes, and didn't put any nails in 
the glue either. Next get out the arms. 

If the arms are pretty heavy and of an even number, 
and you think best, you may lock them together. I 
wouldn't do it, for I don't think it any improvement, unless 
it is a case where it is impossible to fasten the hub on one 
side. I should butt the arms together, glue them, and 
screw fast to lower side of hub. Cut them into rim, leav- 
ing enough wood outside the ends to make it substantial. 

I know that some may object to putting in the arms 
permanently, for the reason that they may wish to put in 
a heavier or a lighter set ; but if the arms are properly pro- 



i6o PATTERNMAKING. 

portioned, they are not only the most suitable size, com- 
pared with teeth, but are also of the right size to make a 
good casting. If they are made larger or smaller, there 
will be a strain that will tend to weaken it, and perhaps 
draw it out of shape. 

Better make the arms straight. Crooked arms don't 
look as well and are not as strong. Some set the arms as 
tangents to the hub. This, they say, gives them a chance 
to relieve the strain of unequal shrinkage by twisting the 
hub. The arms may be straight, and the shrinkage won't 
hurt them if they are made by a good moulder. If the 
arms don't come full up to the top of last course, fill up 
the space with wood, then finish gluing up the rim. 

In turning the rim, be careful not to cut the arms half 
off, because it would weaken them, and don't re-chuck 
your wheel until the teeth are fastened on. 

We are now ready to put on the teeth and will make up 
our minds as to how we do it. The oldest way, perhaps, is 
to put in dovetails, and the best I can say for this method 
is that we should always respect age. We are not obliged 
to do as our fathers did. I know of one firm that uses a 
good deal of gearing and they won't have any dovetails. 
They say that it takes too much time; besides, it is liable 
to spring the rim. I agree with them as to the expense, 
and I would just as soon have them put on in some cheaper 
way. In fact, where it is possible, I would just as soon 
have them put on solid with glue. 

I presume the idea of using dovetails was originated to 
overcome the difficulty of drawing the teeth all together. 
If one tooth stuck, the moulder could draw it by itself. 

If you had made your wheel so that the teeth were not 




MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. i6i 

parallel with each other, the moulder would be able to 
draw them one at a time in different directions, as circum- 
stances demanded, and so he would be able to mould your 
wheel. As to the value of casting, I won't say, because the 
patternmaker might be near. Again, if the patternmaker 
is competent to make a pattern so that the teeth and dove- 
tails are in line, isn't he capable of making the whole wheel 
so that it will draw all together? 

Perhaps it will take a little longer to work them if they 
are glued fast, but it will save time on the whole. I can 
work the teeth about as quickly as I can put in the dove- 
tails. If they are glued on it holds 
the fillet at root of tooth. Another 
way to save this fillet is to put them 
on like Fig. 63, using dowels and -p^^ ^ 

screws. 

I have put on teeth with screws alone. If you should try 
this way, don't forget to mark with a knife across the tooth 
and rim at each side of wheel before taking them off to 
w^ork, and you will need to be very particular in replacing 
them or you will destroy the spacing. 

I should use two dowels and one screw for anything 
under 6'' face; above that use more screws. Somewhere 
I have read or heard about working teeth in long strips, 
cutting them up to length and nailing them on. This 
method is only excelled by the man who saws them out of 
the solid wheel and finishes them with sandpaper. Both 
ways might suit some people. There is no accounting for 
tastes. 

Having the teeth fastened on, finish trimming and mark 

the pitch line. Don't make a line a sixteenth of an inch 
II 



i62 PATTERNMAKING. 

wide, but first get a good surface by means of shellac and 
sandpaper. Then, using a fine, sharp point, make a line 
as fine as possible, taking your eyesight into consideration. 
If you want a line for centres, make that also in the lathe. 

Now you come to what I consider the most important 
part of the whole job, spacing round the wheel. Don't 
try to do this without first putting a fine, sharp, round point 
on each leg of your dividers. A three- or four-sided point 
won't work well, and if the point is not central you cannot 
space twice around your wheel and come out the same. I 
think a pair of dividers with movable points best, because 
you put these points in the lathe and sharpen them up 
nicely. Don't use a pair of dividers that are too small, 
because the points will stand at an angle so great that it 
will vary the spacing. 

You may test them as follows: Step off two or three 
spaces (to get the motion) on any straight line, then before 
setting down the point for the next space mark a short 
arc ; step once more and move the dividers as if for another 
step, but simply make the point mark the space, then, 
turning back once, strike a second arc through the point 
occupied by the first arc. If the two arcs just touch with- 
out intersecting, your dividers are in good shape, and are 
large enough. If they are too small the arcs will nearly 
always intersect. 

Space round your wheel, being careful to set the points 
down exactly on the pitch line. Don't bear on too hard — 
just enough to keep the points from slipping. How did 
you come out? I have been so fortunate as to come out 
right the first time, but this doesn't occur very often, I am 
sorry to say. 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 163 

If you come pretty near it, perhaps you may correct the 
space by giving your dividers a rub on the oilstone. If you 
fall short rub them inside, and if you overrun rub the 
outside. 

I have always been foolish enough to correct the space 
by means of the spring and screw which are found on most 
wing dividers. I presume I have been obliged to space 
four or five times around the wheel, when I might have 
struck it right the first time by resorting to the oilstone, but 
after I get good points on my dividers I am anxious to keep 
them so, and I have always been able to come out right by 
means of the screw. 

In spacing a rack, don't try to set the dividers exactly 
by a rule, but supposing the pitch is ij'', measure off a foot 
exactly, and then make your dividers cut it up into eight 
spaces. I suppose that you can lay off a foot with no 
greater error than you would in laying off ij", and the 
error would be divided into eight parts, so you would get 
your ly laid off only one-eighth the original error too 
large or small. 

Another thing I do is to leave off the centre mark on 
each tooth. Make your spacing marks where one side of 
the tooth is to be, then by setting off the thickness of the 
tooth you have all the points necessary. 

Perhaps I needn't tell you not to alter the dividers you 
set off the pitch with until you have spaced all the wheels 
of the set on both sides, if they are spur-wheels ; for bevel 
wheels it doesn't make so much difference, because they 
may be corrected in fitting up. If bevel wheels are laid 
out on both sides of the teeth and worked by these lines, 
they will be wrong in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, 



1 64 



PATTERNMAKING. 



and the one other which comes right is only a streak of 
luck. 

You must be very particular in squaring across the face 
of spur wheels or the two wheels will touch on but one 
side. Don't trust to a try-square, but lay your wheel on 
a flat surface and use a right angle, and after making one 
mark turn the angle round to the opposite side and make 





-JLJ . 





Fig. 64. 



another mark. If the two lines are not parallel, the right 
line will bisect the space between the two. 

There is another way of squaring across which works 
equally well for spur or bevel wheels. 

If you have no flat surface large enough to lay your 
wheel on, you may square across by the method shown in 
Fig. 64. Let the figure represent a portion of the circum- 
ference of wheel, c the point you wish to square from. 
With a gauge, mark the line ab as near one side as you think 
will support your dividers. Taking c for a centre, strike 
two points a and b with the same radius. Using these 
points a and b for centres, strike the arcs seen at d. Now 
a line drawn through the point c and the intersection of 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 165 

the arcs at d will be square with line a h. This method is 
equally good for bevel wheels, but for these it is better to 
use the instrument shown in Fig. 69. 

For the draft gV is sufficient for 6" face; this makes the 
tooth -^'' smaller on the bottom and the space that much 
larger. The clearance is governed by the pitch and the 
place the wheel is to occupy. A very good rule for the 
clearance is to take ^ of the pitch for the tooth and the 
remaining -^ for the space, making the tooth the draft 
smaller. 

Draw lines across the top of teeth at every tenth or 
twelfth tooth and test them to see if they are square. 

Space around with the same dividers you used for the 
first side, as the pitch circle should be of the same diameter 
on both sides of the wheel. It is a pretty good test of your 
skill in spacing to make the spacing come out right without 
any alteration of the dividers. 

Now you want a stiff pair of dividers to lay out the teeth 
after locating both sides of the tooth on the pitch line. In 
marking the outline of tooth turn your dividers in the same 
direction for every tooth, and don't bear on too hard. If 
you have first made a good surface with shellac, you will 
be able to see a pretty fine line. If you work with sharp 
tools, you don't actually need a line any wider than the 
edge of your tools. This would not be visible, so we will 
make it just wide enough to be visible. 

If you take off the teeth to work them, you will very 
likely be able to plane them out. Don't try to make the 
fillet at root too thin on the side next the rim if the teeth, 
are not glued on. Unless you make the fillet like Fig. 65, 
instead of trying to make the full quarter of a circle you 




1 66 PATTERNMAKING. 

had better leave it off altogether, for you will make a bad 
job with too much feather-edge when you strike a tooth 
that is a little cross-grained. Some makers never put in 
any fillet, but I think that it not only strengthens the tooth, 
but also makes it easier for the moulder. It is very hard 
to prevent a sharp corner of sand from wasting. 

The fillet shown in Fig. 65 gives an exaggerated example 

of the kind. In practice I should 
make them much nearer to the 
quarter circle. 

In working the teeth, don't leave 

all of the line on one side and cut 

it all off on the other, for this is 

FiG.^^^ ' wrong and makes the same trouble 

that uneven spacing causes. 

As I have said so much about uneven spacing, let us 

experiment a little and see how a pair of wheels which are 

spaced badly will work. Let us first locate the bad places 

and number them like this: 

1. A thick tooth. This makes the space on each side, or 
it may be all on one side, small. 

2. Three or four short spaces, where you crowded the 
dividers a little, to make the spacing come out right (?). 

3. Two small teeth and a large space between. 
These faults are in the pinion or driver. In the driven 

wheel we find one very thick tooth. (I have seen a case 
so bad that the spacing and working together had made a 
difference of yV in the thickness of teeth at pitch line.) 

The two wheels are fitted up and ready to run. Turn 
them slowly around and notice how the teeth mesh together. 
(In this case it would be more appropriate to say "mash.") 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 167 

No. I is on the line of contact and is the only tooth that 
touches, and will be until it is worn off to the correct size. 
No. 2 starts in and crowds the driven wheel faster as each 
of the short spaces comes up to the work, but if you look 
sharp you will see that each succeeding tooth takes all of 
the load upon itself, pushing the opposite wheel away 
ahead of the preceding tooth. This will make the wear 
on this part of the wheel excessive and will give the driven 
wheel an uneven motion. It will also tend to throw the 
whole error on the first correct tooth, and if that big tooth 
on the other wheel should strike one of these short spaces 
I presume something would break. You didn't notice that 
big tooth when it went by, because it went into the large 
space, No. 3. If you will figure how many revolutions it 
will take to bring it into contact with the short spaces, you 
can tell about how soon you will be obliged to put in a 
new wheel. 

One way to help this uneven spacing is to give lots of 
clearance. This may be done in the pattern, or perhaps 
some kind-hearted machinist or millwright who sets up the 
job will spread the wheels so far apart that the only danger 
will be that they may slip out of gear. 

Another way is to cut the teeth similar to the teeth of a 
cross-cut saw. It would be almost impossible to break a 
tooth of this form ; but the bearings of the shaft would re- 
quire a good deal of attention and grease, I think. 

After you have worked off the teeth without spoiling a 
single tooth, and each and every one is cut right to the centre 
of the line, you will be pretty apt to think that you have got 
a good job. So you have ; but let us try them with a pair of 
calipers, or, better still, with a gauge. Cut a piece of hard 



1 68 



PATTERNMAKING. 



J» 



wood, Y thick, like Fig. 66. After making the distance 
from a \.oh equal to the depth of tooth below pitch line, 
saw from one side two thin pieces. These may be used as 
calipers by putting on a small handscrew. You can take 
two teeth and one space, or by turning the pieces both the 
same way you can take one tooth and one space. Don't 
be discouraged if the gauge shows a variation 
in the sizes of teeth and spaces, for this is the 
common failing and the greatest fault of cast 
gears. It may, and probably will, be only a 
slight variation. 

Let the end h of the gauge go to the bot- 
tom of the space. Then if you find the 
teeth and spaces are all equal, you 
have got a good job. Be careful 
not to spoil it by sandpaper and 
varnish. Use a stick planed to fit 
the tooth for sandpapering, and put 
on the varnish very thin. 

This wheel will make the moulder 
happy, and produce a good casting if one good moulder 
does all the ramming. 

If two or three moulders each ram up a part of the 
mould, you will probably find as many different sizes of 
teeth on the casting as there were moulders on the mould. 
This is nothing to the discredit of the moulders, who may 
all be good men, and still there will be a difference in their 
work. Any one of them would produce a better casting 
alone. But we will let the moulders make their own 
mould; we have done our part of the job. 

In regard to the hub : I depend on the lower half to hold 




Fig. 66. 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 169 

the arms together, and as the hub is generally deeper than 
the rim, if it is made fast to the spider it will be in the way 
when you wish to lay the wheel on a follow-board to mould. 
To remedy this, and at the same time support the arms in 
moulding, I cut the hub off even with the rim. The rest 
of the hub is loose with the core print. Make that part of 
the hub which is fast as small as you will ever want for a 
hub on this wheel. When you want a larger hub, fit it 
over this piece. 

When making calculation for the clearance of teeth, you 
had better get the moulder's ideas on rapping patterns, for 
you may find it necessary to allow a little more clearance 
to enable him to get in his ideas on the subject. 

In allowing draft on the teeth, remember that a mould 
will usually strain a little at the bottom. This, of course, 
will make the casting have less draft than the pattern. 

SPIRAL AND V GEARS, AND WORM-WHEEL PATTERNS. 

I am aware that it is the usual custom to true up the 
teeth of V gears to a straight-edge, or sometimes by a bevel, 
which is worse yet, because it is impossible that the tooth 
should be correct and have a fixed bevel fit it at more than 
one point on the face. 

Did you ever try to grind a plane-iron on a stone that 
was cut down low in the centre ? Well, in trying to get the 
edge straight you had to hold it at an angle with the side 
of stone; then doesn't it follow that you would grind the 
iron hollowing if the stone had been true and you still held 
the iron at an angle ? In the last case, would not the edge 
of the iron be the same as the line formed by the intersec- 



I70 PATTERNMAKING. 

tion of the face of a tooth, placed at the same angle as the 
iron was held, and the rim of the wheel or pinion ? Does 
not this show that you cannot true up the teeth by a 
straight-edge ? Now, I propose to illustrate a way of get- 
ting around this difficulty in, as I believe, an original and 
accurate manner. 

Let Fig. 67 represent half of a V-gear pinion of these 
dimensions: 2" pitch, 6'' face (the Fig. is 3'' face); the 
angle or depth of V 2" . These dimensions are simply to 
save time and ink. To avoid confusion only one tooth is 
shown. 

After the teeth are turned up and laid out on both sides 
(by the way, mark the centre in the lathe if you haven't 
already, and drive a wire nail in both sides), then make 
your template as follows: You will need a piece of stuff 5" 
long, 4'' wide, and 2" thick. Plane one side flat as /, ^, h^ 
then cut the block as shown by broken lines, making the 
curved side with a radius equal to radius of pitch line on 
pinion, having the edge / in a radial plane. Then make 
the piece k \Y wide, Y thick, and 3'' or 4'' longer than from 
the centre to top of tooth. The edge which is to be placed 
against the pinion should be beveled so as to touch the 
wheel only at the side next c. 

This should be fastened to the block already made by 
screws nicely fitted, so they may serve as dowels. Place 
the thin edge of h and the curved side of the block at right 
angles. After the right position has been fixed by the 
screws mark across the block along the beveled edge of ^, 
then remove ^, and draw a line across the curved side of 
block to meet the Hne across the edge / and square with /. 
Make another line parallel to and 2!' away from this first 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 



171 



line. Lay off on second line 1" from /, and draw a true 
spiral line from this point to where the first line meets / ; 
work off the block to this line, which will be practically 




Fig. 67. 

like the edge of plane-iron when the stone was true, shown 
in the figure by the curved line a b. The rest of the block 
may then be cut away so that it will go between the teeth, 



172 PATTERNMAKING. 

only being careful to preserve the angle on line a h. This 
line, in my opinion, is the correct shape of face of tooth at 
pitch line. 

The template will of course be correct only at pitch line, 
being a little too full toward the point and a little too flat 
nearer the root. 

For a worm-wheel the block would have to be curved 
on line ghtofit worm. If the teeth are to be formed in a 
core, place a temporary centre to hold the arm k against. 
If a large wheel with arms, better put them in before you 
turn up the teeth to guard against any possible change in 
the shape of wheel. You always work exactly to the 
centre of a line. So if you would do an exact piece of work, 
get your lines exact. 

Sometimes one wheel of a pair gets broken, and the 
patternmaker has nothing to work from but the remaining 
wheel and, perhaps, the number of teeth in broken wheel. 
In order to make a new pattern, it is necessary to know the 
pitch, number of teeth in each wheel, and the width of face. 

If it is known how many teeth the broken wheel con- 
tained, figure the diameter by the number of teeth in each 
wheel and make your drawing from those figures. The 
bevel will remain the same for any pitch if the number of 
teeth in each wheel remains the same. 

If the number of teeth is not known, then very carefully 
measure the wheel to be mated at the point of teeth a b, 
Fig. 69. Lay this down ; then take the width of the face 
with your dividers, and from centre a describe arc c d. 
Next, take the diameter of inner points of teeth as on line 
e j. Draw a line from a through the point where this 
diameter intersects the arc c J as at e, and continue it to 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 173 

the centre line of wheel r. This will give the bevel of top 
of tooth on the wheel to be matched. To get the bevel at 
pitch line, and also the diameter, strike from a another arc 
with a radius equal to half the working depth of tooth. 
This can usually be determined by the wear on teeth, or 
perhaps by the dirt and grease which has been rammed 
into the bottom of space by teeth on opposite wheel. In 
the cut, the radius of this arc will be the line a h. Draw a 
line through h to the point 0, which is the centre of the pair 
of wheels ; then draw another line at right angles with h 0, 
and passing through a. Then will the intersection of these 
two lines at the point h be the pitch line of the pair. 
From draw line i to show the line of shafting to which 
the required wheel is to be fastened. This may not always 
be an angle of 90°. Draw another line from h to i and 
at right angles with i. This will be practically the radius 
of required wheels, but may be further corrected by the 
pitch as found by diameter and number of teeth in oppo- 
site wheel. 

A very simple way of laying out the shape of teeth is 
shown by Fig. 68. If this doesn't give the best possible 
shape to the teeth, it has the advantage of always having 
the centre fall within the points of teeth, and is easily 
worked off with less liability to error. Now, I consider 
the spacing of the teeth of the first importance. When this 
is destroyed by trying to follow some shape made up of 
more than two simple curves, and consequently difficult to 
lay out and work accurately, it is sacrificing practice to 
theory. This applies to spur wheels also. It is also essen- 
tial that the face of teeth on spur wheels should touch all 
the way across the face. This is usually accomplished by 



174 PATTERNMAKING. 

making the draft on each wheel of a pair equal, and then 
in fitting them up, one is reversed. This is usually ar- 
ranged by the designer or draughtsman. To make the 
teeth of bevel touch across the face they must be so v^^orked 
that a line drawn from any point on the outline of tooth at 
the greatest diameter to the centre should touch the tooth 
across the whole face. By means of the instrument shown 
in Fig. 69, this may be done very accurately. 

In this tool, the rod s should be perpendicular to base k. 
The collar / is made to slide on 5, and is clamped by screw 
m; there is another collar n, which is always free to revolve 
on 5. This has a pin on each side, one of which is shown 
at 0. These pins should be central and at right angles 
with s. This forms a joint, allowing the straight-edge p 
to move up and down over the face of tooth. The trial side 
of straight-edge should lie in a line which runs to the centre 




Fig. 68. 



of rod 5 and also to centre of pin 0. In use, the instrument 
should be made fast to the spider of wheels by screws 
through the base k. Of course the spider should be true 
with the rim; then locate the pin by the line across its 



MAKING GEAR PATTERNS. 



175 



centre at a distance equal to the radius of opposite wheel 
above the pitch line, and fasten the collar /. The rod s 
should of course be in the centre of wheel and may be so 




placed by the circular base. Then the straight-edge is free 
to move all around the wheel, and if you work off the teeth 
so that it will touch the whole surface you will have a pretty 
good wheel. 



CHAPTER VII. 

PROPELLER WHEELS. 

I don't propose to go into any scientific discussion of the 
merits of different-shaped blades, straight or increase pitch, 
or any of the other points, good or bad, real or fancied. 
I am going to try and tell how to construct a pattern for a 
given pitch and diameter. As the same general directions 
will apply to all wheels, let us first consider a plain straight 
pitch — say, a wheel 8' diameter and 12' pitch. By 12' 
pitch I mean that the wheel would advance 1 2' during one 
complete revolution if there was no slip. Imagine, if you 
can, a bolt 8' in diameter having a thread of so steep a 
pitch that it makes but one turn in 12'. Cut a segment 
out of this thread and you have the blade as stated. This 
bolt, if turned in an iron nut, would advance 12' in one 
revolution, but in the water there is always more or less 
slip, as it is called, or lost motion, owing to the yielding of 
the water, which is the nut for the wheel. 

We shall want a drawing first, showing the pitch, shape 
of hub, and thickness of blade at different points, although 
the thickness can only be located positively at all points 
when the outline of blade is known. Some designers wait 
until the face of wheel is worked off before laying out the 
shape of blade; so it is customary to allow plenty of stuff 
on the back side, that the thickness of bucket may be so 
located, after the outline is given, as to give the best back- 
ing qualities consistent with strength. 

176 



PROPELLER WHEELS. 



177 



Let the curved lines a ft, Fig. 70, represent the full size 
and shape of hub desired, and the parallel horizontal lines 
c d show the courses of pattern ; then draw lines showing 
the pitch at different points. 
The line e j gives the pitch at 
extreme length of blades, g h 
at the point where the fillet be- 
tween blade and hub begins. 
You may draw as many more 
between these two points as 




Fig. 70. 



Fig. 71. 



you think necessary or as the shape of the blades requires. 
This is not necessary for a straight pitch, as it can be 
taken from any point. 

Now get a piece of stuff for a templet and dress to a 
parallel thickness equal to the thickness of courses in pat- 
tern. Having determined the centre point (6, Fig. 71), 



12 



178 PATTKRNMAKING. 

draw a circle, at, smaller than the hub, yet large enough to 

give sufficient strength around the hole for a spindle, shown 

by the small circle, b, used in moulding. Draw a radial 

line, b c; this is the face of wheel. Measure off on this line 

four feet from centre, b, and cut off the end of templet to 

this length. Now set a bevel on the pitch at circumference 

of wheel, as shown by line c j, Fig. 70, and lay this off on 

end of templet, as at a b, Fig. 72. Then measure thickness 

^ required at this point, as r, and draw an- 

O / other line parallel with a b. This last line 

^U:1^^3 determines the width of stulY necessary at 

this point, as c d, Fig. 71. By the same 
Fig. 72. . r 1 1 • 1 1 ^ 

operation we may nnd the width at any 

point and thereby get the shape of back edge of templet, 

adding as much as you like to chop off again. 

You may now cut up the stuff for one bucket, which is 
all that is usually made, as tlie moulder makes the two, 
three, or four buckets, as the case may be, from this one 
pattern by swinging it on its spindle and making as many 
flasks as wanted. You can count up the courses necessary 
on the drawing, and it is a good plan to have them num- 
bered. The stuff can be cut pretty nearly the shape de- 
sired, which is the shape of templet. Fig. 71. 

In cutting up the stuff, see that the grain runs out toward 
the face and point, as you will chop off the wheel from the 
hub toward the point, so the grain should run in the same 
direction as line e j on templet. 

We will now lay out the first course, having dressed the 
stuff to a parallel thickness and out of wind. Get it out 
the same thickness as in drawing, Fig. 70. If the stuff is 
thicker than shown on this drawing, and is laid out by the 



PROPELLER WHEELS. 179 

templet, it will be too narrow; and for the same reason, if 
the stuff is dressed too thin, it will be too wide. 

Turn the piece for course, bottom side up ; then lay out 
a circle the full size of hub on line between courses one and 
two. From the centre of this circle draw a radial Hne b c, 
Fig. 73. This hne is the face of bucket. For the back 
face lay on the templet, being sure to have the centre coin- 
cide with the centre of course. 

A good way to accomplish this is to bore a hole i" diam- 
eter through the centre of templet and also through the 
centre of each course, then use a piece of wire that will 
fit this hole to centre each course. Now bring the face 
of templet to the radial line b c, Fig. 73, and mark the 
width at circumference. The width at line g h. Fig. 73, 
will be seen at c d, Fig. 75. The pitch at this point is 
shown by line g h, and the general outline of back side 
of blade by curved line g i h. As the blade tapers in 
thickness from this point to circumference, the line of back 
should be curved from this point to end of blade like e, 
Fig. 73. Lay out the fillet between blade and hub as at / 
and k^ draw a line b m from centre of hub to centre of fillet ; 
draw another circle the same diameter as end of hub. 
Then cut this course to the full lines, Fig. 73; mark the 
pitch and thickness on end of course as shown on end of 
templet, Fig. 72. 

The pitch at any point between g h, Fig. 73, and circum- 
ference may be found as follows: Let g h, Fig. 75, be the 
pitch at g hy Fig. 73, and e j the pitch at circumference, j k 
the centre line and g' e parallel with ;' k ; now divide the 
two lines g e, Fig. 75, and g c, Fig. 73, into an equal number 
of parts, a^f a', a', a^, and b^y h^, b^, b*. Now a line drawn 



i8o 



PATTERNMAKING. 



from centre p to ¥ will show the pitch line at corresponding 
point on first course as at a. 

The first course is now ready except boring the hole for 
spindle. Be careful and bore this hole square through the 





C?' — ic 

Fig. 73. ' Fig. 74. 

course and large enough to fit spindle. The point /, Fig. 
73, is located by the number of buckets; if for four, the dis- 



PROPELLER WHEELS. 



i8i 



tance / w is a little less than one-fourth of the circum- 
ference. 

Now we have on this first course lines showing the end 
of hub, the face of blade, the fillet connecting face of blade 
with hub, also the outline of hub on joint between one and 
two courses from / to m. 

For the second course, having dressed the stuff, lay on 
templet and bore small hole through centre; mark along 




the face of templet and around the hub, also the width at 
circumference. Then remove the templet and draw a 
circle the size of hub on line between second and third 
courses; lay out the fillets and get the width on line g h, 
Fig. 74, as from m to n, Fig. 75. Now from the point w, 
Fig. 74, which marks the intersection of fillet and hub, lay 
off a distance equal to m I, Fig. 73 ; draw lines from m and /, 
Fig. 74, tangent to circle a, then you have the second 



l82 



PATTERNMAKING. 



course, Fig. 74. Bore the hole for spindle and mark the 
pitch and thickness on end of course. 

Turn up a hardwood plug or arbor to fit the hole bored 
for spindle, eight or ten inches long. 

Lay the two courses now cut out together, pushing the 
plug through both, then moving them until the face of 
second course exactly coincides with the point where the 
pitch line on end of first course meets the top surface of 
course. Then glue them strongly together, using plenty 
of hand-screws. 

While the first joint is drying we will lay out another 
course, getting the dimensions necessary from Fig. 70, 
always laying out the course on bottom side. 

After the first joint has dried we will put on the third 
course the same way the second was done. It is a good 




Fig. 76. 



plan to start by fastening the first course to a pair of tres- 
tles ; this keeps your work up level and gives a good chance 
for the hand-screws. When it gets up too high, shift it to 



PROPELLER WHEELS. 



183 



the floor, always putting on one course at a time, and re- 
membering when we get above the centre to take the 
radius for Hne / w, the size of hub from Hne between 
courses 7 and 6 for seventh course, instead of on line be- 




tween 7 and 8, as was the rule below the centre. It will be 
seen by Figs. 76 and 77 that it requires two short courses 
above what is necessary for the length of hub ; Fig 77 shows 
the width of these courses so plainly that I don't think it is 
necessary to say anything further about them except that they 
are to be glued down on a radial line the position of which 
is governed by the width of courses at the end of blade. 



i84 



PATTERNMAKING. 



It is well to try the wheel three or four times when glu- 
ing up to see that the courses or joints are kept parallel 
with the first course laid down. If you allow them to run 
out of parallel lines your wheels will 
be crooked. 

Th*e job as it now stands will look 
hke Figs. 76 and 77 with the courses 
marked x and y left off. 

Now let us see what the result 
would be in case we had used the 
modification of a straight pitch, as 
shown by lines i k and / 0, Fig. 70. 
We will lay out the first course, using 
these lines. Lay off the hub as before, 
lay on the templet, and draw the radial 
line b r, Fig. 78. 

Measure with a pair of dividers on 
line, bottom of first course, the distance 
between line g h and line i k ; set this off on line g h, Fig. 
78, toward g ; then draw a straight line from end of course 
at r to the point just marked on g h. Again, take the 
distance between i k and / 0. Set this off toward g from 
the last point found of this line. Now you should have 
a templet the outline of which at face of bucket should 
start with a curve suitable for fillet and from this should 
run to a straight line, lik^ Fig. 81. This is used to lay 
out that part of the course between the straight line at 
iy Fig. 78, and the fillet at /, and is placed so that it touches 
the straight line i and runs through the point 0. This 
point is located by the distance of curved line / 0, Fig. 70, 
from the straight pitch line g h, measured on the bottom 




Fig. 78. 



PROPELLER WHEELS. 



185 



line of the course you may be working. This will give us 
a first course like Fig. 78. From this shape the face of 
courses gradually approaches the true radial line until the 
centre of wheel or hub is reached. Here and here only the 
face of bucket lies in a radial line. After passing the centre 
the variation on line g h, Fig. 78, should be set off to- 
ward h. 

On Fig. 80 the face of first course is shown by broken 
line a and the face of eleventh course by similar line h. 
This you will see widens the section at g h, Fig. 78. The 
shape produced also offers less resistance and is calculated 
to increase the backing qualities. 

Now get out your adze and chop off the face of wheel. 
If you are as poor a hand with an adze as I am, you will 




Fig. 79. 

need to be very careful or you will get below the surface 
as shown by lines on Fig. 76. Then finish up with plane 
and spokeshave, being careful to work just down to the 
lines formed by face of courses, and don't leave the face 



i86 



PATTERNMAKING. 



all humps and hollows, because it won't look nice, to say 
the least. 

After shaping the wheel to the desired outline, which 
may require the addition of more courses at top or bottom, 




Fig. 8o. 



as shown by the different outlines on Fig. 80, a piece is 
fitted across the blade as shown by Fig. 79 at a and fas- 
tened on with screws. As this piece is intended to keep 
the blades straight while being moulded, it should be fitted 
very closely and well fastened. 

Now turn over and chop off the back to the right shape, 
after which the pattern will look like Fig. 79. Then, if you 



PROPELLER WHEELS. 



187 



will "sharpen" the edge all around, your pattern is ready 
for sandpaper and varnish. 

For an increase pitch but little further explanation is 
required. In the drawing, or drawings, for it is better to 
make as many drawings as you have sections, on each 
drawing place a line indicating some definite straight pitch 
— the same pitch for all sections and all crossing the same 
centre. This pitch line, together with the radial line made 
by templet, Fig. 71, is the starting-point from which each 
course is laid out. 

Your drawings will have the general appearance of Fig. 
82, in which r p s represents the increase pitch line and 
e p j the straight pitch. 

All courses must be laid out from a radial line and this 
radial line must always pass through some point on line 
e /. This point must also be the point where the line e j 





Fig. 81. 



Fig. 82. 



crosses the surface of the course you are laying out; then 
by measuring on the bottom line of course from e j to r p s 
the desired pitch may be laid out. It will be found neces- 
sary to change the bevel of line showing pitch at circum- 



i88 PATTERNMAKING. 

ference, and of course the width of course will vary with 
this line. If the position of sections is located on templets 
it will be easy to transfer them to courses. 

If you wish to find the pitch of an old propeller- wheel; 
set up the wheel on a level floor in the position shown by 
Fig. 79, bringing the bored hole for shaft to a true vertical 
position, then draw a circle of the same diameter as wheel 
to be measured ; on this lay off a certain part of the whole, 
making it as large as possible, and have the end of bucket 
cover it. Now measure vertically from the points that 
mark the ends of the space laid off on the circle. The dif- 
ference in the height of the edge of bucket at these two 
points will be to the pitch as the space is to the whole circle. 
If the space is one-twelfth of the circumference, and the 
difference in the two measurements is one foot, the pitch 
is 12'. This is only for a straight pitch. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 

Whether we make the pattern with or without cores 
will depend on the shape of the thread. If you can draw 
the pattern in a horizontal position with the thread cut on 
its surface it is better to do so, and you will be likely to get 
a smoother casting. I will consider several different 
shapes of thread, some with cores and some that can be 
made without. 

We have first a drum having a thread or spiral groove 
cut on its surface as seen in section at a b, Fig. 83. It is 
impossible to draw this pattern horizontally with the 




Pig. 83. 

thread cut into the pattern, because there would be a good 
deal of back draft, as shown at c. This drum is for wind- 
ing a chain, and the groove is to prevent the different turns 
from riding over each other and also to lay them smoothly 
and tightly on the drum as at d. This will prevent any un- 
even motion in hoisting which might be caused by the 
chain slipping or rolling over. 

189 



1 90 PATTERNMAKING. 

So we will have to make this thread with cores. We 
first turn up a straight, round piece to the largest diameter 
of drum, and part it through the centre as is customary 
with nearly all patterns. Make a line around one end, 
while in the lathe, to lay off the spiral from, and be careful 
to place the centres exactly in the joint or parting in order 
that the two halves of pattern may be alike. Then by 
spacing from the line of joint you may draw lines parallel 
with the axis of drum, dividing the surface into four, six, or 
eight different parts, according to the size of the cylinder 
and the pitch of the groove. If the pitch is coarse or steep 
make more parts, and the larger the cylinder the more 
parts you should divide the surface into. 

Divide the pitch into the same number of parts as you 
have made on the circumference of cylinder; lay off one 
part of the pitch on the first line, two parts on the second line, 
and so on, around the cylinder, counting the joint on each 
side as a line until on the last line you lay off the full pitch. 
Now with the dividers set to the pitch, and starting from 
these points, which, by the way, are to be laid off from the 
line made around pattern in the lathe, you space off each 
line the whole length of drum. In laying off the first turn 
of spiral you should make it right- or left-handed, as may 
be wanted. 

Now you need a templet to draw the lines between these 
points already found and which are intended to locate the 
line of spiral. Make your templet in this way : Fit a piece 
of hard wood to the surface of the pattern five or six inches 
long and one-half inch wider than the spaces between paral- 
lel lines. Straighten off one edge to one of the lines ; make 
a gauge line on the side next cylinder at a distance from the 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 



191 




Fig. 84. 



straight edge equal to one of the spaces between parallel 
lines on cylinder. Square across one end of the piece for 
templet. Then measure on the gauge line from the 
squared line a distance equal to one of the parts into which 
the pitch was divided. A spiral line drawn from this point 
to the point where the squared line intersects the edge of 
templet will show where to cut templet. 

This spiral line may be drawn in the 
manner illustrated on page 261, Pat- 
tern Shop Mathematics. 

With this templet you may lay off 
the line of thread or groove the whole 
length or drum. 

For the core print, which needn't 
be over J" thick, get out some pieces 
like staves of the same thickness of print and about two 
inches wide. Make a box to cut them into lengths, sawing 
them on a line as near the pitch as you can. Fit each 
piece to the line of groove on cylinder and gauge them to 
the correct width, or you may make a box that will cut 
them to the width and bevel them so that they will draw 
out of the sand all at one operation. Make it of hard 
wood, like Fig. 84. 

Make the space left for the prints so that one of the 
pieces will slip in easily, then put it in your bench vise ; this 
holds all firm to work off print. You must be sure to give 
print bevel enough to draw. Test this by holding a piece 
on the drum and trying it with your square. 

After you have fastened all the prints on, the next thing 
in order is the core-box. This should be made as long as 
will be convenient to handle and still be an equal part of 



192 



PATTERNMAKING. 




/ 



one half the pattern. The box will have a section like 

Fig. 86, and is made of four pieces and parted on a line 

perpendicular to axis of pattern. Get out the pieces wide 

enough, in the direction of length 
of pattern, to cut off to the pitch 
after they are squared up. 

If the groove is to be stopped 
square off before reaching the end 
of pattern, it will only be necessary 
to stop off the core to length needed, 
as shown by Figs. 87 and 88; but if 
the groove or thread is run out at 
the end like the thread on a bolt 
you will have to make one or per- 
haps two pieces to lay in box as 
shown by dotted line a, in Fig. 85, 
to make the core fit the end of pat- 
tern. This piece is also shown at a 
in Fig. 86. The great difficulty in 
making patterns having a thread or 
spiral groove is in laying them out ; 
you must divide the circumference 
of patterns accurately, and also the 

pitch, both into the same number 

of parts, and you must also be very 

particular in laying off the parts of 

pitch which locate the first turn of 

spiral on the surface of pattern. 
The spiral on this drum we have 

made need not be perfectly true, still it will look much 

better if you make it as accurate as possible ; and if you 



re 




Fig. 85. 




Fig. 86. 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 



193 



exercise due care in laying it out you will be better pleased 
with the result. 

For a spiral or worm, like Fig. 89, which is known as a 
conveyor, you will have to be very particular or you will 





STOP-OFF 
BLOCK 




Fig. 87. 

make a failure of it. Turn up the pattern as a straight 
piece, one-half or three-quarters of an inch larger all over 
than the outside of worm. The pattern should have a 
length which may be evenly divided by the pitch, with the 




Fig. 88. 

addition of the thickness of one thread. The ends should 
be draughted to match the taper of thread, and the ends of 
core-box made to match. 

One end of the conveyor as shown has a projecting stud, 
and the other a socket into which the stud would fit. On 
each end of the pattern a piece of the size of hub at socket 
end and as long as the stud at opposite end should be 
turned. These form prints for the cores which form the 
13 



194 



PATTERNMAKING. 



pin and socket. The ends of the thread are cut off square, 
that the next section at each end may be fitted to form a 
continuous screw. 

If you wish to use each length separate, making the 
length such as you want, you can fasten a piece of shafting 
in socket end, or the pin at the opposite end may be long 
enough to reach through bearing and into the socket on 
next piece. 

You won't need to lay out the spiral on pattern, as the 
core-box does away with all that. Make the box a full 




Fig. 89. 

half-circle of the length from a to h, Fig. 89. First make 
the ends ; these may be turned to the taper of screw, then 
put on the outside in staves, as you would for a plain, 
round core the full diameter of pattern. Now put two 
half-circles on a face-plate and turn off to the same diam- 
eter as pattern ; bore through the centre for the piece which 
is to form the central shaft or core of conveyor. The 
thickness of these pieces will be regulated by the length of 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 195 

core-box; one side should be turned off like one side of a 
section of the thread. Lay off on the joint on each half 
one-half the pitch from the face side and carry the out- 
line of thread back to this point. 

Divide the circumference of these pieces as you did the 
circumference of drum for winding chain and get a line 
representing the correct line of thread. You must work 
this off by hand, and you can do it very nicely by turning 
a piece to fit the hole bored through centre; cut through 
the centre of this piece from one end and fasten to your 
template. By turning around and at the same time sHding 
up or down, the template may be made to reach every part 
of the face of loose piece, and will show you just where it 
wants cutting. 

As this piece is larger than worm, you must make allow- 
ance for this on your template, carry the surface of spiral 
face right out to the full diameter of piece. After you 
have trued up the surface to fit template, gauge from the 
outside the extra thickness which we added to the diameter 
of pattern and cut it down to the thickness of thread at 
circumference. Now finish up the other half. This other 
half must now have the thickness of thread cut back at 
circumference, and fix them in the core-box at a distance 
apart equal to the pitch. If you have kept all your sizes 
right they will fix themselves. That is, if one piece is 
placed against each end of the box the distance between 
them will be right without any further fixing. 

Then the space between them will be Hke the space 
between two adjacent threads on the worm, with the addi- 
tion at circumference of one- half or three-quarters of an 
inch, which we added to the size of pattern, and which 



196 PATTERNMAKING. 

thickness reaches across the top of thread and serves to 
keep the cores at the right distance apart in the mould. 
The loose pieces should have a feather or dovetail let into 
the ends of box to prevent them from turning around and 
destroying the core vi^hen drawing off the box. 

Now fit in the piece which is to form the central shaft 
of worm. This piece I should turn down to the size of 
shaft from h to k, leaving the ends of a size to fit the hole 
bored through loose pieces. This hole should be large 
enough to take in the full size of fillet between thread and 
shaft. This will make it easy to work off the face of spiral 
on the loose pieces, and you will also get in the fillet in good 
shape. This piece for the shaft must be left loose and 
taken out before the core is drawn. 

We must now make provision for the ends of worm. 
The thread at each end must be cut off square, perpen- 
dicular to the axis, and also be cut so that one end may 
be an exact counterpart of the other, then any number of 
sections may be fastened together to form a continuous 
screw, by means of the stud and socket already mentioned. 
The most convenient place to stop off thread will be at the 
joint or top of core-box. For the box you should have, 
besides the loose pieces already made, a piece fitted to the 
ends of box and reaching from h to c. You must also have 
loose pieces to form the extra size of the shaft at the socket 
end and also at the shoulder on opposite end. 

Now, to finish the cores for the ends of spiral, you take 
out one of the loose pieces and make a core reaching from 
the opposite spiral face to the end of box, as shown by the 
broken lines d e j; then put in the parallel thickness piece 
at this end of box, and you make another core reaching 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 



197 



from the spiral face to broken line g. These two cores will 
form one end of the worm. Go through the same opera- 
tion at the opposite end of core-box. Don't forget on these 
end- sections to make allowance for the extra size of shafts 
at each end. 

If you have been accurate in the length of pattern and 
core-box, the cores will come out even with the length of 
pattern. You must also have a core-box of the diameter 





Fig. 90. 



of end prints and long enough to make the core necessary 
for each end, with the addition of such length as will keep 
the two plugs, which I should use, in position, one for 
making the hole in core to form the pin, the other making 
the opposite end. These cores also form the recess shown 
at each end in Fig. 89, reaching to the centre of thread. 

In Figs. 90 and 91 we have two forms of thread which 
may be moulded without cores. Fig. 90 shows a long nut 
a into which the screw b fits. The thread in the nut is 
made by a core-box, which is of the same length as nut. 



198 PATTERNMAKING. 

and has the thread cut on the inside. The thread on b is 
worked on the pattern. 

Let us first turn up the pattern for nut straight and of 
the largest diameter of thread on the outside. This thread 
is formed only to keep the thickness of the casting uniform, 
and also to make it weigh less. You must be particular 
to keep the size uniform for the whole length of thread. 
Now, to lay out the thread on outside of pattern. If it is 
not over 4'' in diameter, I should take a piece of hard card- 
board, and, having straightened one edge, put this to one 
of the joints in pattern, then roll the cardboard lightly on 
the surface; when you get around pattern, mark the paper 
where it meets the edge first laid on. Take off the card- 
board and make a pencil line across one side at right angles 
with the straight edge. Make another line parallel with 
straight edge, at a distance therefrom equal to circumfer- 
ence of pattern, as has already been located by the mark 
we made when the cardboard was rolled on pattern. 

On this parallel line set off the pitch measured from the 
line at right angles with straight edge ; draw a straight line 
through this point and through the right angle formed by 
the straight edge and the pencil line ; cut the board exactly 
on this line ; draw another line parallel with this new edge, 
and distant therefrom once the pitch. Now, roll the paste- 
board once more around the pattern, making the screw 
right- or left-hand as desired, and where the edge cut to 
pitch hne crosses the straight edge see that it exactly 
coincides with the pencil line which is parallel to pitch 
line. The cardboard should overlap far enough to glue 
the two edges together, then we have a cylinder of paste- 
board which fits the pattern, and will slide from one end 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 199 

to the other, and which has one end cut to the Hne of 
thread. With this templet we can easily lay out the thread 
on pattern. It is best to space off the pitch on joints, and 
then make the spiral, drawn by the help of the templet, 
pass through these points. This will check any tendency 
of the thread becoming uneven, as might be the case if we 
trusted to the templet alone. 

After you have made one line, space off the distance 
shown at d e. Fig. 90, and then draw another line through 
these points parallel to the first line. 

If your pattern is too large for a templet of this kind, you 
may space it off at the joint on each side, then make the 
templet to reach half-way around, or you may divide it up 
still more, as we did the pattern for chain-drum, using a 
templet, as we did for that pattern. 

Now, if you will use a gouge which will fit the line d c e^ 
you may work out the space between the parallel spiral lines 
and then it will be easy to round off the corners left at d 
and e. Make a block for sandpapering reaching across 
one space and a little beyond the centre line of thread on 
each side. You can put the pattern in the lathe and finish 
the sandpapering, running the lathe on a slow speed. 

For the core-box we will get out the stuff in four or six 
sections, according to size of pattern, because we should 
have trouble in working a half-box. Joint the sections to- 
gether, putting the two or three pieces which form each 
half of the box together by means of pieces screwed on 
across the joints. You must be careful to get the four or 
six parts of the box all equal, as we shall make the joints 
answer the same purpose as the parallel lines on surface 
of pattern for chain-drum. 



200 PATTERNMAKING. 

You must first work your core box straight through, 
being careful to get it round and of the diameter of nut at 
point of thread at /, Fig. 90. Then make a templet, as 
we did for outside, reaching across one section of core-box, 
being particular about the pitch, making it just the same 
pitch as templet for outside. Divide the pitch into as many 
parts as you have divided core-box; and, after squaring 
off one end of the box, lay out the first turn of thread, as 
has already been explained, taking care that the thread 
shall start in the same place as on the outside of pattern. 
Then you may draw two parallel lines, regulating their 
distance apart by the intersection of the circle which bound 
the groove inside of nut, with the straight lines which mark 
the present surface of core-box. 

In working this groove you will be well repaid for using 
extra care when you come to sandpaper, for if it is a small 
box I think you will find it the worst job of sandpapering 
you ever had. 

Make the diameter of prints half-way between the largest 
and smallest diameter of thread; this makes the casting 
with the least fin possible at the ends. 

For the inner screw, lay out and work in the same way 
that you made the thread on outside nut. The diam- 
eter of this screw will, of course, be governed by the clear- 
ance deemed necessary. The pitch, of course, will be the 
same as the pitch of core-box. 

For a thread like that shown in Fig. 91, I think the 
quickest way is to put on the thread as we did the core 
print on chain-drum. 

It may be worked in the same way, too, being careful to 
keep it up to size, and after it is all on put the pattern in 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 



20I 



the lathe, make a block to fit the space between two adja- 
cent threads and reaching across the tops of thread, then 
by running the lathe at a slow speed you can finish up the 
job in good shape. 

The nut shown is sometimes made in halves, and held 
together by means of a wrought-iron band, shrunk on, or 




Fig. 91. 



it may be made by a core; in either case, I should make 
the thread in sections, and fasten on the surface of pattern 
or core -box. 

In all these core-boxes having a thread on their surface 
you must be particular to make a good match at the part- 
ing. This is best done by using good dowels and then 
putting the sections on either side of the joint together in 
your vise and finishing them with sandpaper while in this 
position. 

Another thing you must be particular about in making 
screws and nuts which are to fit together is the pitch. 
It won't do to make the screw with a pitch of ten threads 



202 



PATTERNMAKING. 



to the foot and the nut with nine and three-quarters or ten 
and one-half. 

Fig. 92 shows a worm for use with a worm-wheel. This 
worm might be moulded in a horizontal position, but then 
the joint will always show on the casting. They are some- 
times moulded perpendicularly, the moulder screwing the 
pattern out of the sand. When moulded in this way, the 




Fig. 92. 



accuracy of the thread depends in a great measure upon 
the skill of the moulder. I think a great deal better job 
may be done in the way I shall describe. 

Make your pattern for worm with long ends, as shown 
in the figure, one end being of the largest diameter of worm. 
If you already have the pattern, you can fit a piece over the 
end to make it Hke figure. The opposite end should be of 
the size desired for spindle or shaft, or for core print, if the 
worm is to be cast hollow. If you wish to cast on shaft, 
make this small end of pattern the same size as shaft. This 
pattern is used in forming the core, which in turn forms 
the casting. The core-box is made round and large enough 
to leave plenty of sand outside of worm. 

You will see by the figure that the thread of worm is 



PATTERNS FOR SCREWS. 203 

worked about one turn more than is needed for the cast- 
ing. The core -box is parted through the middle for con- 
venience in removing the core when made. The end, 
marked a, is left open, with an arm across having a hole 
through it which the pattern will fit. The other end of 
box has a thick head, with a hole through it the same 
diameter as points of thread. 

You will notice in the sketch that the thread of worm lies 
partly in this end of box. The pattern is placed in box 
with the right length of thread inside, and then where the 
thread enters head a piece is fitted, h, which will stop off 
the core, and is carried around far enough to completely 
fill the thread for a couple of inches. 

After the core has been rammed up, which is done 
through the open end, the pattern is removed by screwing 
it out through the large end of box, the piece &, which we 
put in to stop off the thread, forming a guide for the thread 
and taking all strain oft* the sand. The small end of pat- 
tern must be long enough to reach through the box and 
support pattern after the worm has been entirely screwed 
out of the sand. 

The advantage of drawing a screw in this manner lies 
in the fact that there is no joint in the mould and therefore 
we get a smooth, continuous thread without any chipping. 
This leaves the skin of the casting intact, which will, of 
course, make it wear longer. 

If your casting is to have a hole through it, the core will 
stop off the mould at large end. If you wish to cast on 
shaft, make the small end of pattern the same size as shaft, 
then make an annular core. This core should be made in 
the same box that we made the worm in. The lower end 



204 PATTERNMAKING. 

of the core-box is fastened with screws; these may be taken 
out and the loose head moved up to make whatever length 
of core thought necessary to support the shaft. Use the 
worm pattern by placing it in the box with the end of worm 
even with inside of box, then ram up the core and draw the 
pattern through the large end of box. 

If you want the spindle at both ends of cast iron, or of the 
same material as worm is made of, make a piece which will 
be of the shape you wish, making the two ends of the same 
size respectively as the ends of worm pattern, or possibly 
the same pattern may do if you want the two ends of the 
same diameter. In either case, put the form in same core- 
box that was used before and make whatever length of core 
you may want. 

I think you will find your casting to be pretty good. 
One very necessary part, which I overlooked, is that you 
will need a straight, round pattern of the size of core-box, 
and long enough to make a mould that all the cores for the 
casting may be laid in. This mould may be poured on 
end or horizontally, as you may think best. 

I have endeavored to impress, in these articles on screw 
threads, that accuracy is indispensable in laying them out. 

Oftentimes a cast screw may be made to take the place 
of a cut screw, and where a great many are to be made 
will, of course, be much cheaper. If I have succeeded in 
showing how cast screws may be made, and made nicely, 
then I have accomplished my object in these papers. 



CHAPTER IX. 

TRACTION WHEELS FOR FARM ENGINES. 

These wheels are sometimes to be made in such a way 
that the castings need no finish, even the hole for axle being 
left in the rough. Of course the casting must be pretty 
smooth and true in order to be complete as it leaves the 
foundry or cleaning-room. To get a smooth, true casting 
it is necessary first to have a good, accurate pattern, for I 
never saw a nice casting made from a poor pattern. 

Let us construct a wheel like Fig. 93, which is a section 
of a wheel showing the arms. One of the treads or teeth 
to prevent slipping is shown at m. The figure shows the 
hub in detail. It is evident that the hub must be in two 
parts to admit of drawing one set or row of arms ; then re- 
moving the sand between the two rows of arms, and finally 
removing the remaining part of hub with its arms. 

It is also to be so put together that the core through hub 
will always come in the centre of wheel. No finish, you 
know. The hub must also stand true with the rim, so that 
the wheel must not wobble. In short, the pattern must be 
made about perfect, and this is the way I adopted to secure 
the desired end : The rim is to be laid up first and should be 
parted at the centre both inside and outside, for reasons 
given further on. Saw up the stuff for arms and let it be 
getting into some permanent form. Get the stuff for the 
hub out as follows : a, 6, d, e to have the grain running from 

205 



2o6 



PATTERNMAKING. 



/ to g; c to have the grain running from h to k, and long 
enough to reach through the whole hub as shown. Turn 
c with a pin on each end, then turn the other parts of hub 
to fit over pin and with the joints between a b and deon the 
line of centre of arms. 

The arms should be long enough to reach from outside 
of tongue / on rim to the hub and into it about 2'\ Fasten 




Fig. 93. 



c and d together, and then putting the other parts of hub 
together by means of the pins on c, lay out the holes for 
arms and work them nearly to the size; also lay out and 
cut the arms into rims, taking care to get every one in line 
at the point where they enter rim, and slanted up and down 
alternately. 

Now chuck the nowel side of rim on a large chuck; on 
the same chuck fasten part a of hub at the right distance 



TRACTION WHEELS FOR FARM ENGINES. 207 

from the centre joint of rim, all as shown by the portion of 
chuck n in figure. 

Then fit in the first row of arms, letting one end just touch 
and clear in the rim; glue them into the part a, driving a 
small nail or screw through each one to retain it in position. 
Now fit down b and fasten it with glue and screws between 
the spokes ; next put c and d in place, and fit in the other 
row of arms. Great care should be taken in fitting and 
fastening both sets of arms, as upon these depend the posi- 
tion of hub and core for axle. After fastening the arms 
and putting on e, the other half of rim may be fitted down. 

Remove from chuck and test the centres by a pair of 
trams. If you have done your work accurately the centres 
on c, made by the lathe, will be exactly central with rim, 
and the arms will not spring in all directions so as to require 
a boy to hold each one in place while moulding. The pins 
on c should be cut off as shown in figure. Glue the piece 
into a and b, then turn up the two ends of hubs h and k, 
which form a shoulder for the wrought-iron bands usually 
shrunk on, and also form the core prints as shown. 

The projections on rim, shown in section at m, may be 
moulded on the wheel if their shape will permit it, or may 
be made in cores and rammed up in mould against rim. 
The best job is made by moulding on, then it will be found, 
if the rim is parted in the centre, it will make less work 
fitting these on, as both sides will be alike. This will be 
quite an advantage if they stand at an angle, as they 
often do. 



CHAPTER X. 

GLOBE-VALVE PATTERNS. 

These patterns may be divided into three classes, as 
follows : 

1 . Iron valves above 6" in size. Patterns and core-boxes 
both made of wood, the core-boxes made with loose seats. 
From 6" up to 1 2" it may be well enough to make whole 
core-boxes, to save changing scat, which wears out the 
boxes very fast. Above 1 2" a half box so made as to change 
for the two halves of core, and also to change for making 
the angle, safety, and cross-valve of this same size, although 
a safety-valve of this size would be a rare thing. Still, the 
same change which makes the angle- valve would also make 
the safety or cross, so that, when we have so arranged the 
pattern and box that we can make an angle-valve, we can, 
by the addition of another branch on pattern, make either 
one of the others. 

2. Iron or brass valves from (^" down to 2". Patterns 
for these may be made of wood, pine, or perhaps something 
more durable, if the number of castings to be made will 
warrant the extra expense. Core-boxes for these sizes may 
be made of iron, in two parts, from either wood or plaster 
of paris patterns. 

3. Iron or brass valves from 2" down. These, especially 
the brass valves, are usually made in such quantities that 
it becomes necessary to make the patterns of metal, gener- 

208 



GLOBE-VALVE PATTERNS. 209 

ally of iron, and to have enough of each size and kind to 
fill a flask. They are all fastened together by gates, or 
are fastened in halves on a plate, and moulded on a 
machine. 

I shall consider nothing but the body of a 16" globe and 
angle combined. 

The first requisite is a reliable working drawing. This 
may be furnished, but it is usually left to the patternmaker 
to make his own working drawing, and he generally makes 
a full-size, sectional view on a piece of board. To the 
credit of the craft be it said, that the patternmaker who can 
make a pattern from a scale drawing is also competent to 
make a working drawing of the same. 

As we are going to construct a 16" flanged valve (flanged 
valves only will be required of this size), we shall want a 
full-sized drawing Hke Fig. 94. 

Now, it is not very likely that there will be many globe- 
valves of this size required, and as the pattern will be rather 
expensive, we had best make it in such a way that it will do 
for both globe- and angle- valves of this size, more especially 
as the same trimmings, with the single exception of the 
spindle, will do for both valves. Having arrived at this con- 
clusion, let us see what modifications may be necessary to 
adapt the pattern to either form. The globe-valve receives 
steam, water, or gas at one end and discharges the same at 
the opposite end, the inlet and discharge pipes being in the 
same Hne. The angle-valve has the inlet directly under 
the spindle and the outlet at one side. Thus the line of 
pipe will form a right angle where it passes through the 
valve. In Fig. 95 I have given a sectional view of an angle- 
valve body to be made from the same pattern and core-box 
14 



2IO 



PATTERNMAKING. 



we shall make for the globe-valve shown in Fig. 94. By- 
comparing the two, it will be seen that one of the branches 
must be movable in order that the three branches or ends 
necessary on each valve may be placed in the relative posi- 
tions shown by the two Figs. 94 and 95. As it is customary 
to make the body in the form of a globe, the best way to 
construct the body will be to turn it up as a complete globe 
and then fit the branches to the surface. After the 




Fig. 94. 

branches are once fitted to the surface of this globe, they 
may be fastened on in any position required. 

As a globe-valve of this size will require for the body a 
ball from 24" to 28'' in diameter, it is evident that it would 
not be good policy to make the pattern soHd, because it 
would be very heavy; therefore it will be best to lay this 
ball up in cants or segments. This will make the pattern 
light and strong. 

By referring to Fig. 96 the manner of building up this 
ball will be plainly seen. We start with a round plate, as 



GLOBE-VALVE PATTERNS. 



211 



shown at a; screw a face-plate to one side of this, and face 
off in the lathe ready for the first course of cants marked h 





Fig. 95. 

in the figure. Work the halves of the ball along together, 
and while waiting for the glue to dry get out four pieces 
for braces or arms, as long as the diameter of ball, and 
having a cross-section about 2"x^Y' These should be 




Fig. 96. 

halved together at their centres, forming two crosses, one 
for each half of pattern. When you get the halves of the 



212 PATTERNMAKING. 

ball built up to the course marked c, rough out the inside to 
such size and shape as will leave it, when finished outside, 
about if thick. Then cut in the braces, leaving some 
thickness of wood outside their ends. Put a couple of 
good screws into each end of each arm and also set up a 
support under the centre of the crosses. 

Now put each half back in the lathe and face off for the 
next course, and also face up a spot at the centre large 
enough to receive a face-plate. Mark the centre exactly, 
then go on and finish gluing on the last courses ; lay these 
aside to let the glue get thoroughly dry before turning them 
up. 

In the meantime we will get the branches started. These 
will be best made up of courses. Begin with a solid head, 
which will form the end of core print. Get the gluing-up 
done and lay them aside to dry while turning the ball. 
For this you will need an accurate templet, and I would 
recommend making one as shown in Fig. 97, which will 
neither warp nor shrink out of shape. Change the face- 
plate to the opposite side on arms. Don't begin turning 
by facing off the joint and then bringing the surface of the 
ball down to match, but first bring the surface down to fit 
your templet, then turn off as much or as little as may be 
necessary at the joint. It is much easier to take off an 
eighth of an inch here than to turn it off the whole surface 
of the ball. Be careful to get the halves of the body ex- 
actly the same size, as it will make a good deal of trouble 
if one is larger than the other; they won't match, and the 
branches won't fit. 

Cut the branches in halves and make the joint before 
turning. Here you must be very careful again to locate 



GLOBE- VALVE PATTERNS. 



213 



the joint exactly in the centre. You can't fasten them on 
the globe so that the parting will be flat unless both the 
body and branches are all parted on the centre line. 




Fig. 97 

The flanges at each end had better be made separate 
and put on with screws, so that they may be changed if 
necessary. 

Now let us put our pattern together, as the turning is 
finished. Fit dowel-pins in the halves of globe to keep 




Fig. 98. 

the pattern in place while moulding. Fasten a block on 
top of arms in drag-half of pattern, find the centre, and 
draw a line through this centre. This will fix the position 
of the inlet and outlet branches. Fasten on these two 
branches, being very particular to keep the centres of both 
body and branches all in the same straight line. We can 



214 



PATTERNMAKING. 



now locate the yoke end midway between these branches 
and at right angles with them. This is also a place where 
accuracy is very desirable if you wish the core to fit nicely, 
as the core is liable to be laid in the mould either side up, 
and it is evident that it won't reverse unless the yoke end 
of both pattern and core-box are central between the two 
side branches. Another reason: When it is central it is 
also at right angles with the centre line of branches; and, 




Fig. 9 

vice versa, when it is at right angles with this line it is also 
central. This follows from the mode of construction. 

Fig. 99 shows the pattern complete. Fasten on all the 
branches with plenty of screws and you will have a good, 
strong pattern and one that will mould nicely. Put a 
good, stout rapping-iron in each half of pattern for the 
amusement of the moulder. I once worked under a fore- 
man who was wont to say, at times when the moulder had 
done something especially exasperating : " There never will 
be any moulders in heaven, because they are past all re- 
demption." I don't believe this is Hterally true; still, it 
may be well to imagine so when putting in rapping- 
irons, and get in a few extra screws on that account, 



GLOBE- VALVE PATTERNS. 215 

for the moulder is a trifle too willing to exercise his 
muscles. 

And now let us take the core-maker into consideration 
and see if we can construct a core-box that he won't be 
obliged to entirely demolish in order to separate the core 
from the box. Perhaps the gentleman referred to above 
included the core-makers with the moulders in his harsh 
statement in regard to their final disposition. I presume 
he did, for he must have noticed, as we all have, that the 
average core-maker does love to linger around a big core- 
box and see in how many different places he can strike it 
with the heaviest sledge around the place. We must take 
all of this into account, and make our core-box strong 
enough to stand a good deal more banging than is neces- 
sary. 

We must also provide some way of moving each side 
branch round opposite the yoke end in case we wish to 
make a core for an angle-valve. This will compel us to 
make three sides of the box just alike, the remaining side 
being the yoke end. 

The best way to make this box is to build it up in seg- 
ments, as we did the pattern ; but, in order that it may not 
become a creature of circumstance and an eyesore, let us 
settle how we shall put the box together, then after this we 
shall be able to so build the body and branches that they 
may be easily fastened together and make a strong box 
after being so fastened together. 

Perhaps the best way will be to construct it like Fig. 100. 
This gives us a square centre piece as large as can be made 
conveniently, then there is a good flange on each branch. 
By means of screws through these flanges we can fasten 



2l6 



PATTERNMAKING. 



the branches on to the body part of box and make a good 
workmanHke job which will show the forethought and 
constructive ability of its maker. By the way, pattern- 




FlG. lOO. 

makers are too apt to let a job ''develop itself," and many 
a botch has been made in this way. A little forethought 
would generally prevent this, but the lack of it keeps 
many otherwise good mechanics down at the bottom of the 
ladder. 

The first thing in order will be to find out how large we 
must build up the centre of box to make it finish to the size 
and shape shown by Fig. loo. This can be got at by lay- 
ing out a full-size section of valve body, or you may put the 
necessary lines on the drawing you already have. 

As the central part of box is approximately a sphere, it 



GLOBE-VALVE PATTERNS. 217 

is evident that, if a slice is cut off the outside, the resulting 
face will be a circle or nearly so ; then, if we know the size 
of the circle necessary to match flange on branch, and also 
the distance from the centre of globe at which the joints 
between body and branches must be formed, we shall then 
be able to lay out the diameter of outside of central part 
of box. 

Let us fix on the diameter of flanges necessary. The 
inside of neck of valve is 16" in diameter; add to this 
double the thickness of stuff necessary to form a good, sub- 
stantial core-box, say about 2^, then a flange about ij" 
wide. This makes the flanges 23^' in diameter. For con- 
venience we will make the joints on all four sides of the 
box at the same distance from the centre. In fact, three 
of them would have to be alike anyway. We should locate 
the joints as far from the centre as one-half the diameter 
of flange found necessary, if possible ; otherwise we don't 
get the full benefit of the flanges in putting on the branches. 




Fig. 10 1. 



The actual distance of the joints from the centre will be 
governed by the point at which we shall find ourselves 
obliged to locate the joint on the yoke end of valve. This 
neck, as will be seen by referring to Fig. 94, has a narrow 



2i8 PATTERNMAKING. 

internal flange or shoulder. This is without any question 
the proper place for a joint. We shall need all the room 
this distance from the centre will give us ; in fact, the radius 
of this point and the radius of the required flange will be 
seen to be nearly equal. 

Make the joint just where the neck begins to narrow 
down to this flange. Draw a line through this point paral- 
lel with the centre line of branches, and lay off on this line, 
measuring each way from the centre of neck, the diameter 
of the flange. Now place one point of the trams at centre 
of globe and scribe a circle of such size that the circum- 
ference shall pass through the points marking the diameter 
of flange on branch of core -box. This circle will be the 
circumference of a sphere which, if cut by a plane at a 
distance from the centre equal to the radius of a circle to 
which the hne marking the joint between body of core-box 
and the branches is tangent, the resulting face will be a 
circle of the same diameter as flanges on the branches of 
core-box. 

Now that we have found the diameter of the sphere 
necessary for our purpose, let us begin to make it. ' First, 
we want a plate, round, and of the thickness and diameter 
shown by a, Fig. loi. On this foundation we will build 
up the segments as shown in Fig. loi, taking care to make 
good joints between courses, especially on the first courses, 
where we shall have very thin edges after the box is fin- 
ished. Put on about six courses, then make a templet like 
that shown in Fig. 98. This one should be cut to fit inside 
the required circle, instead of outside, like the one shown 
in Fig. 97, but it should be made of three pieces, to keep 
the circle true. 



GLOBE- VALVE PATTERNS. 219 

Now, before putting on any more segments, let us turn 
out what we have already glued. You will see that it is 
easier to do this now than to wait until the whole box is 
laid up. Then build on again to within four or five courses 
of the top. Turn out the inside again, and while the box 
is still in the lathe mark the centre in the bottom of box, 
then put a piece of stuff across the top of box, cutting to 
such a length as will fit snugly in the box and hold the 
piece even with the top; on this piece mark the centre 
again. We are now ready to square up the outside of box. 
To do this, draw a line through the centre, lay off on this 
line, each way from the centre, the radius of flange we shall 
form on the branches, and draw lines through these points 
at right angles with the line passing through centre. These 
lines now mark two opposite sides of outside of core-box; 
lay off the other two sides at same distance from centre as 
the first. If it is found, from the design of valve body or 
for any other reason, that it is not practicable to cut the 
four sides of box all at the same distance from centre, we 
must change our plan and cut only three sides alike, and 
if this is not possible then we must contrive to put in extra 
pieces on the short sides, to make three sides alike — it isn't 
likely that you will have any trouble of this kind in making 
an ordinary globe- valve, and the four sides should form a 
perfect square, or, failing in this particular, the core-box 
won't be straight after it is all together. 

After the centre is sliced off to these lines, we will glue 
onto the top, at the corners, some blocks, to make up the 
height of the four or five courses or segments left off, and 
which would have been almost entirely cut off again, as will 
be seen by noting the size of the piece actually necessary to 



220 PATTERNMAKING. 

complete each of the four corners. By doing this you also 
get these corners, which are necessarily rather weak, in the 
best possible form, considering their size and shape. If 
these corners had been laid right up to the top with seg- 
ments, the chances are that you would have had some 
vertical joints in these top courses, which would have made 
bad work; by putting on the five courses all at once you 
make a single piece take the place of at least five, and 
probably more. 

The next thing in order is to finish up the branches. 
As we are going to make only half a box, we shall have to 
turn up only one piece to make both pipe ends of box. 
For the hub or yoke end we will lay up only half the actual 
length of this branch, then saw the flange off of one half 
and glue the two halves together, end to end. Then cut 
off the bevel inside of shoulder at a, Fig. loo. 

This provides for three sides of the box. Before filling 
up the remaining side, let us round off the corners inside 
of box where the branches enter the body of valve. In 
fastening the branches onto the centre of box, be sure and 
get the two sides and the centre all in a line, then the yoke 
end must be put on at right angles with the sides and cen- 
tral between them. Without these precautions the two 
halves of core won't match together. After finishing the 
corners where the side branches enter, shift one of them 
around opposite the yoke and finish this side like the two 
already finished. We should make these three sides, which 
are to form the pipe ends of valve, as near alike as possible 
so that the ends of core-box may interchange. 

For the fourth side of box we will make a piece like 
that shown in section at &, Fig. loo. This has a flange of 



GLOBE-VALVE PATTERNS. 221 

the same diameter as flanges on pipe ends of box, and must 
be fitted to go on three sides of box. We are now ready to 
put in the partition which, in a globe-valve, separates the 
inlet from the discharge. 

Begin by laying up in segments a cylinder that will make 
the "wings," a section of which is shown at a, Fig. 94. 
The crescent-shaped piece, commonly called the "half- 
moon," should be put together in three pieces, like the 
templet shown in Figs. 97 and 103. It is best to make 
two of these pieces, one for each side. This will make a 
little less work for the moulder, and consequently (?) 
will make a better core. At any rate, the core-maker 
won't have so many corners to trim off, or forget to 
trim off. 

The manner of la>dng out the ''half" moons, and also 
the ''wings," is fully described in the following chapter. 

To this description it is necessary to add the manner of 
fitting them into the box, and also show how they may be 
held in their places while the cores are being made. 

The half-moon must be fitted into place first. The cen- 
tre of box was marked while in the lathe. We shall have 
to locate the centre of thickness of half- moon by measuring 
from the centre of yoke end on the line of circle marking the 
circumference of body of valve; to do this, put a piece of 
stuff from the end of print on yoke end across to the oppo- 
site side of box. On this we can first find the centre of 
ball, then mark the circle across the piece of stuff, then 
locate the centre of yoke end on this circle. Now we must 
also mark a point on the opposite side of box which will 
be in line with the centre line of yoke end. And as the cen- 
tre of ball is also on this line we have found two points on 



222 PATTERNMAKING. 

the circle of body which are exactly opposite each other 
and also in line with the yoke end. We will now lay off 
from these two points the position of the ends of half-moons, 
marking the point which is the centre of their thickness. 
We now have four points fixed. From each of these points 
lay off half the thickness of half-moon each way, adding 
to the actual thickness enough to form a fillet on each side. 
Now take the templet used in forming the inside of box; 
make one side perfectly fiat, that it may be used as a straight- 
edge to mark the lines around the inside surface of ball. 
As we have three points located in each one of these lines, 
we shall have no trouble in making them straight. Cut the 
space between these lines down about |'' below surface of 
box, thus forming two continuous grooves down across the 
surface, intersecting each other at the bottom centre of ball, 
and forming equal angles with a line drawn through the 
centres of two side branches. The depth of these grooves 
may be gauged by a router, if you will substitute a wooden 
plate fitted to the inner surface of core-box for the usual 
flat plate. 

These grooves form pockets to receive the half-moons, 
and will hold them firmly in their places. The half-moons 
may be fastened on a face-plate and turned, fillets and all, 
to fit in the box. They should have plenty of draft on each 
side so that the core will come out clean. Now cut them 
out to receive the wings and fasten them in the box by a 
screw through each end. 

The pieces for wings should first be cut into quarters and 
then fitted together on a face-plate so that the joints shall 
intersect at the centre and each piece contain an arc of 
90°. Then, after they are turned, they will all be alike. 



GLOBE-VALVE PATTERNS. 223 

To fasten these pieces in the box so as to hold them firmly 
and still allow them to be drawn out of the core is the 
problem now presented. The upper edges are held 
strongly by means of a cross-bar of hard wood screwed 
firmly to the wing and then fastened to the box by a ma- 
chine-screw at each end tapped into a metal plate, which 
in turn is let into the top of box and fastened securely by 
long screws. This way of fastening brings them always to 
the exact position, the screws acting as dowels, and holding 
them securely. The usual manner of fastening the lower 
corners is by means of a pin fast .in the half-moon at the 
centre of box and projecting upward into the joint between 
each pair of wings. This will not, as a rule, give very 
satisfactory results, and I will try to explain a much better 
way of holding these points in place. 

If you will look down into the core-box after the wings 
are in position, you will see that the round corner made on 
wings at &, Fig. 94, leaves a three-sided space between the 
top edge of half-moon and the wing pieces. There will be 
one of these spaces under each wing, and they will be on 
opposite sides of the half-moon with each pair of wings. 
These spaces afford what I consider the best possible way 
of fastening or holding the wings at their lower corners, 
and which I will try to explain. 

Note how far this space extends each way from the cen- 
tre, then remove the wings and cut from the top edge of 
half-moon, I" in depth for a distance each way from the 
centre, a little greater than was the space left between wing 
and half-moon, cut both half-moons and then fit into each 
gap a piece that will bring the half-moons back to their 
original form ; fasten these pieces by a small screw at each 



224 PATTERNMAKING. 

end. Now put the wings back in box, first fitting a dowel 
into one half and making a hole to match it in its mate; 
this will prevent them from shifting by each other and 
leaving a shoulder or " overshut " on the valve-seat. Screw 
the wings down into their places, then fit pieces of wood into 
the three-sided places already noticed and fasten them to 
the pieces let into the upper edge of the half-moons. 

Take out the wings and the half-moons and dress off 
the pieces just fitted to the surface of the half-moon on each 
side, then remove the little screws, and we have a piece the 
shape of which would be rather difficult to describe. This 
is to be sandpapered and varnished and used at a pattern 
to get castings from which, when fastened to the half- 
moons, will hold the lower corner of wing pieces firmly in 
just the right place. 

For the angle- valve we will, of course, leave out the half- 
moons and wing pieces and put in the seat shown in 

Fig. 95- 

We have now constructed what I consider a very excel- 
lent pattern and core-box for making either a globe- or 
angle- valve of this size. It is a durable pattern, and one 
that will compare very favorably in cost with any pattern 
made for the same purpose. 



CHAPTER XI. 

AN EXAMPLE IN PROJECTION. 

There is probably no doubt but that the best way to 
cut the elliptical hole through the angular partition in a 
globe valve core-box is to chuck the piece to form the 
partition in the lathe and then bore the hole either 
straight or on a taper, as the design may call for. While 
this is entirely practical in the case of ordinary-sized 
valves with the help of a shde-rest lathe, it would not be 
so in the case of very large valves, or in a lathe not pro- 
vided with a slide-rest. Therefore some other method 
becomes necessary. This has led me to put the method 
shown into practical form; for while there is nothing 
new in the principle involved, still there may be some 
who are bothered to apply this well-known principle to 
this problem, and for these few I have endeavored to 
make it plain. 

Let the great circle, ab c, in the cut, be the line show- 
ing body size of core; the lines df and eg showing the 
angular partition. The line kj is the outside diameter of 
loose seat, which in this case is to be straight. The 
angular partition is to be cut through parallel with 
centre line C D. The best way will be to make a templet 
for one-quarter of the hole, as follows: 

From the point where the line C D is intersected by 

the line e g, which represents one side of partition, draw a 

225 



226 



PATTERNMAKING. 



line I, 9 at right angles with C D, then draw the quarter- 
circle x g with a radius equal to outside diameter of loose 
seat. Now space off this quarter- circle into equal parts, 




the more the better, and from each space draw lines 
parallel with C Z), as i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, carrying these 
lines up to line e g, and from the points of intersection 



GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 227 

draw other lines perpendicular to e g, as ic, 2c , 3c, 4c, etc. 
Now with the dividers transfer the space between i and 
lato line from i to ic, then the space between 2 and 2a to 
line drawn from e g to 2c; transfer the length of each line 
in turn, measuring from the line 1,9, to quarter- circle xg, 
then transferring the space thus found to corresponding 
line drawn perpendicular to ^ ^ and measuring from e g. 
After transferring all the spaces, if we connect the points 
ic, 2Cj 3c, 4c, etc., we shall have a broken Hne, which will 
approximate the elliptic curve required, and if we would 
divide the quarter- circle xg into an infinite number of parts, 
and then transfer these spaces thus formed to lines per- 
pendicular to e g, we should get the curve perfect. 

The departure from the perfect curve is not owing to 
any error in the principle involved, but is due to inaccuracy 
in the appHcation. Still, this curve may be laid out by a 
close workman as nearly perfect as it is possible to work 
by hand in wood. 

Now, make a template from line ^ ^ to ic, 2c, 3c, etc., 
and draw the centre line A B. You can then mark off 
both sides of each half of partition, for you will want a 
right and left where the partition is bored parallel to C D. 
I think this is the best way to cut partitions, as it leaves the 
loose part in better shape. The shape of pieces forming 
the angular partitions is shown by shaded portion 0. The 
other half of same side of partition would be bounded by 
the broken curved line y. 

Now, if we wish to cut the partition parallel with line 
A B, so that the one piece may be used for making both 
halves of the core, mark the centre Hne A B on templet; 
then, by marking the same centre line across the piece for 



228 PATTERNMAKING. 

partition, and laying on the templet so that these centre 
lines will coincide, the hole through partition may be 
marked off, and the outside of partition will be cut on 
curved line 5 r. 

In case the loose part of seat is to be tapered, as shown 
by section ;r, draw the line h i corresponding with outside 
diameter of loose pieces; then draw other lines perpen- 
dicular to C D, and passing through the points where lines 
I, 2, 3, 4, intersect c g, carrying them out to line h i. These 
lines are shown, as 2^, 3^, 4^, etc. 

Set the dividers from centre i on line i, 9 to the point 
intersected by line h i; transfer this space to line iZ>, as 
from I to ih. Set the dividers again at 2^^,'', and take the 
space on this line between C D and // /; move one leg of 
dividers to centre i ; then, with the other leg, mark across 
line 2, as at 26, making the distance between centre i and 
point 2b, measured on a straight line, equal to distance on 
line 2g between C D and line h i. Proceed in like manner 
until all of the spaces have been transferred from lines 2g, 
3gy 4Sy etc., to imaginary lines between centre i and points 
26, 36, 4&, etc. 

Now, setting the dividers again at centre i, and measur- 
ing on line C J9 to point ib, transfer this space to line from 
I to !(/, perpendicular to line e g. Again, transfer the 
space between 2 and ,2b from line ^ ^ to 2d. Transfer all 
the spaces between 2, 3, 4, 5 and 26, 36, 46, 56 to lines per- 
pendicular to c g, as at 2d, 3J, 4d, ^d; then, by joining 
these new points, we get the curve, shown by line id, 2^, 3^^, 
etc., necessary to fit the tapered circular partition, shown 
in section at n. 

We still have the loose pieces to cut off to line of angular 



GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 229 

partition. Make these pieces, when turned up, long 
enough to reach through angular partition, as shown by 
line m I. The circumference of these pieces will then be 
represented by quarter- circle xg. Then space off the edge 
ml oi loose piece to agree with the spaces la, 2a, 3a, etc.; 
lay the piece on a surface-plate with side m I down, and 
with a right angle square lines up from these points and 
number them to correspond with numbers la, 2a, 3a, etc. 
Now carry the lines i, 2, 3, 4 up to w /, as at 4^, 5^, etc.; 
then, by transferring the spaces on lines i, 2, 3, 4 between 
lines m I and d /, as from ^e to 4/ and ^e to 5/, to corre- 
sponding lines on outside of loose piece. The points thus 
found will all lie in the plane formed by one side of the 
angular partition, and shown in the figure by line d f. 

To cut off the corner w, which projects beyond the circle 
a b Cf lay the piece on a surface-plate with the side shown 
in figure down, having first marked the line of great circle 
across the edge. Then with a templet which has one 
straight side to lay on surface-plate, and the other sides 
bounded by a circle equal to a b c having its centre on 
straight side, we can make a line which will show just how 
much to cut off this corner by laying the templet against 
the already beveled side of loose piece, and drawing a line 
around the circular edge of templet passing through the 
point already located on the edge of loose piece by circle 
a b c. 

There is still one more point to explain in case the angu- 
lar partition is cut through parallel with A B, as it will then 
be necessary to cut off the corner of loose piece all the way 
around. After cutting the angular partition and also cut- 
ting the loose piece to line d /, place the piece on a surface 



230 PATTERNMAKING. 

plate in the position occupied when marked olT corner w. 
Then by phicing the templet used in laying out hole through 
angular partition against the beveled side of loose piece 
making the point at w coincide with the line of circle a b c 
on loose piece, draw a line around the curved side of tem- 
plet. Now gauge off on the outside of loose piece the 
tliickness of partition o. These two Hues show just how 
much will have to be cut oft' from loose piece. 



PART FOURTH. 
METAL PATTERNS. 



CHAPTER I. 

COMMON PRACTICE. 

Metal patterns for gating should be as light as possible, 
and may often be made hollow to produce this desirable 
result. For material from which to make the core-box to 
produce these hollow castings I know of nothing better 
than plaster of paris. Such boxes are cast over a core 
made of wood, and inside of a frame^ or box of wood, 
which supports the plaster. The wooden core, or lighten- 
ing core-stick, as it is called, is much easier to make than a 
wooden core-box, and the plaster box is all-sufficient for 
its purpose. 

The mixture for brass patterns contains an overplus of 
tin, and should be all new metal; the large percentage of 
tin gives a good surface for the castings, which is more 
desirable than color for this work. 

Sometimes white metal is used for patterns which are to 
be gated. All I have to say about this is — don't. White 
metal patterns are only to be tolerated where it is neces- 
sary to avoid shrinkage. 

Aluminum castings are coming into use for gating and 
also for single patterns. Their extreme lightness is the 
only point in their favor, as they are difficult to treat, 
especially in soldering, and the shrinkage makes trouble. 
These objections, together with the fact that the foundry 

233 



234 PATTERNMAKING. 

usually has to make a special pot of metal for them, almost 
prohibits their use. 

Copper and tin, with a little spelter, make a metal that 
is easily finished, easily soldered, and has a harder surface 
than aluminum or any of the so-called white metals. 

Gates may be of cast metal or of hard sheet-brass, the 
central or main gate being usually a casting. Sheet-metal 
runners are stronger and will cost more to make up. This 
extra cost is partly offset by their durability. 

Iron castings are quite extensively used for single pat- 
terns of large size, and are more durable and cost less than 
those made of brass. Patterns for use on moulding- 
machines are usually made of cast-iron and are fine ex- 
amples of the patternmaker's skill. 

Wood patterns have also been used on moulding- 
machines with more or less success, although for anything 
which is to be produced in large quantities a metal pattern 
is the cheapest in the end. The moulding-machine manu- 
facturers advertise that you can use your present patterns, 
whether of wood or metal, single or gated^ on "our" ma- 
chines, and you will find that it can be done; but when 
it becomes necessary to replace these wood patterns, you 
will probably make the new ones of iron. Brass does 
nicely for small pieces on machines. It is easier to work 
than cast-iron, but it will not stand the moulder's brush 
as well. Machine moulding does not allow the moulder 
to rap the patterns, so the patternmaker mustn't make 
his core prints fit too closely. 



CHAPTER II. 



SOME PATTERNS. 



I AM somewhat puzzled to fix upon a good example for 
this article, which, being intended for the eyes of the pro- 
fession, mustn't be too easy, and as I am hoping to instruct 
the boys, and also to interest those who have no need of 
further instruction ( ?), it must not be too hard for the boys 
or lacking in interest for the older heads. 

I have in view a simple casting which is needed in small 
quantities for some lines of manufacturing, and can there- 
fore be produced at a satisfactory price from a single pat- 



HEX, 




Fig. 



I02. 



tern, but which in another shop is perhaps required in 
such quantities that the cost of patterns becomes of small 
importance when compared with the reduction made possi- 
ble in cost of moulding and finishing. 

A good example of this kind of a casting is an ordinary 
waste-nut or gland-nut such as is used to hold the packing 
in the stuffing-box of the common brass globe-valve (see 
Fig. 102, which shows such a casting in vertical section). 

235 



236 PATTERNMAKING. 

If but few castings are wanted, a single pattern, perhaps 
a wooden pattern, might be considered as great an expense 
as was warranted, still with the single pattern we add to 
the cost of moulding, and also to the necessary weight of 
the casting by giving the pattern draft, and by adding 
weight, the finishing cost is increased, the finisher having 
to remove more metal. 

The single pattern, when made of metal, may be a cast- 
ing from a master pattern of wood. If not too large, a 
better pattern may be made from solid stock. Here, again, 
the demand for castings must govern the expense for pat- 
terns, keeping in mind the fact that the better the pattern 
the more uniform the castings, thus reducing the cost of 
finishing as well as foundry cost, while increasing the cost 
of patterns. 

Unfortunately for the reputation of the trade, this happy 
result does not always follow the efforts which produce a 
large bill for pattern work. 

While we have been trying to decide whether we will let 
the "cub" make this single pattern of wood, at a cost of 
perhaps ten cents, and then meekly submit to the tearful 
complaint of the moulder that he had to dig it out of the 
sand (surely the casting looks it), and calmly listen to the 
finisher, who, with considerable heat, explains that he has 
broken a special drill because there was so much stock to 
come out, and the casting was so rough that the chuck 
would not hold it, or whether to give the job to Mr. SHde- 
rest, who would make it from solid stock at a cost of not less 
than a dollar, but in such shape that we shall never hear a 
word from the moulder or the finisher. 

But the good spirits who guard and direct the efforts 



SOME PATTERNS. 237 

of the patternmaker now give us notice that they will re- 
quire more castings than can be furnished from a single 
pattern, and it is decided to make a gate of patterns. 

To produce these the master pattern is first made in 
wood, as accurately as possible, and with only a file finish 
if there are facilities for obtaining nice brass castings. If 
the nut casting required is small, better make the master 
pattern of brass, and then if there is doubt that the foundry 
will be able to furnish good enough castings (by "good 
enough" is meant such as can be finished with file 
and emery-cloth), then make all of them from solid 
stock. 

The cost of patterns from solid stock can usually be much 
reduced by making one or two special tools for the lathe. 
As the work is revolved while the tool is held in either the 
slide-rest or the tail-spindle, a flat drill filed to the shape of 
the inside of the nut, but having only one cutting edge, us- 
ing a pair of calipers to fix diameter and a forming-tool for 
the outside, will save much time which would otherwise 
be lost in making measurements and fitting templets. The 
hexagon portion of the pattern is turned to large diameter 
and then spaced in the lathe by the index which you have 
long before this marked off on the edge of cone-pulley rim, 
and a sharp line drawn to mark angles by a tool in the 
tool-post of slide-rest or by using a surface-gauge on any 
convenient part of lathe which is parallel with lathe spin- 
dle. 

The filing of the flats is the most expensive part of the 
job, and really furnishes the strongest argument for the 
use of castings made from a master pattern; and castings 
can be made good enough for patterns. 



240 



PATTERNMAKING. 



pattern; one like Fig. 104, for the upper part; and one like 
Fig. 105, which is called the stool. 

Before we can fix the dimensions, A, of Figs. 103, 104, 
and 105, we must consider the moulding-machine. Let us 
suppose that for Figs. 103 and 104, A will be iY\ then A 
for Fig. 105 will be lY plus thickness of pattern-plate; C, 
Fig. 107, plus space K, between screw H and plate C, which 
space is a little more than the greatest lift, in this case a 



H— T + >^^ 



< W-h^— > 



+ 



7 ^r> 



FiG. 103. 



Fig. 104. 



little more than space L ; plus the height of screw H, plus 
S, plus P, minus L. Seems rather mixed, doesn't it; but 
with something definite for the size of the casting, and 
knowing all the points of the moulding-machine to be used, 
it isn't very hard to fix this dimension. A, for Fig. 105. 

The plan or bottom view of Figs. 103 and 104 is as 
shown in Fig. 106, the lugs NN, which are for the screws 
used to hold patterns in place on plate C, being so arranged 
that the patterns may be placed as closely together as possi- 
ble and mould successfully. Fig. 105 is round in section 
for its whole length, and is not fastened to the plate X, its 
weight keeping it in place. 

Masters, Figs. 103 and 104, must have finish allowed on 



SOME PATTERNS. 



241 



— nr 



*T 



< 



^/ 



diameters, S and W, all of which had best be made round, 
and also on each end. Fig. 105 must have finish on diame- 
ter U and also on ends. W must finish to largest diameter 
of hexagon — i.e.y across the corners, T to the 
round portion at top and bottom of Fig. 
102, and U, Fig. 105, to the diameter of 
hole in bottom part of Fig. 102. All Figs, 
are lettered to correspond each with the 
others. 

It is really the case that these patterns 
may be made and used successfully with ab- 
solutely no draft, the stripping- plate, B, and 
stools, U and V, Fig. 107, supporting the 
sand while the patterns are being drawn. 
It is impossible for the moulder to rap this 
form of patterns, and the castings come so 
true that it seems almost a pity to submit 
them to the skill ( ?) of the finisher. Some of the pattern- 
makers who have perhaps not been favorably impressed 
with the appearance of finished goods may be willing to 
sympathize with me in this matter, as all of our craft know 
that neither the moulder nor the finisher ever fully real- 
izes the poor patternmaker's expec- 
tations. Still they are necessary 
evils that the manufacturer must 
continue to submit to. 

The castings from master patterns 
having been made, we proceed as 
follows: Fig. 103 is held in a 3- jaw 
chuck with its lower end out, the hole is drilled about 1-16 
in. under size, then bored nearly to size and finished with a 



Fig. 105. 




<{ 




))N 



Fig. 106. 



140 



PATTERNMAKING. 



pattern; one like Fig. 104, for the upper part; and one like 
Fig. 105, which is called the stool. 

Before we can fix the dimensions, A, of Figs. 103, 104, 
and 105, we must consider the moulding-machine. Let us 
suppose that for Figs. 103 and 104, A will be lY'; then A 
for Fig. 105 will be ij" plus thickness of pattern-plate; C, 
Fig. 107, plus space K, between screw H and plate C, which 
space is a little more than the greatest lift, in this case a 



r^-^^^.^ 



'S-h 



'16 



< — w-f-^— > 



zz 






7 r\ 






Fig. 103. 



Fig. 104. 



little more than space L ; plus the height of screw H, plus 
S, plus P, minus L. Seems rather mixed, doesn't it; but 
with something definite for the size of the casting, and 
knowing all the points of the moulding-machine to be used, 
it isn't very hard to fix this dimension. A, for Fig. 105. 

The plan or bottom view of Figs. 103 and 104 is as 
shown in Fig. 106, the lugs NN, which are for the screws 
used to hold patterns in place on plate C, being so arranged 
that the patterns may be placed as closely together as possi- 
ble and mould successfully. Fig. 105 is round in section 
for its whole length, and is not fastened to the plate X, its 
weight keeping it in place. 

Masters, Figs. 103 and 104, must have finish allowed on 



SOME PATTERNS. 



241 



— 



7 



< 



diameters, S and W, all of which had best be made round, 
and also on each end. Fig. 105 must have finish on diame- 
ter U and also on ends. W must finish to largest diameter 
of hexagon — i.e.y across the corners, T to the 
round portion at top and bottom of Fig. 
102, and U, Fig. 105, to the diameter of 
hole in bottom part of Fig. 102. All Figs, 
are lettered to correspond each with the 
others. 

It is really the case that these patterns 
may be made and used successfully with ab- 
solutely no draft, the stripping- plate, B, and 
stools, U and V, Fig. 107, supporting the 
sand while the patterns are being drawn. 
It is impossible for the moulder to rap this 
form of patterns, and the castings come so 
true that it seems almost a pity to submit 
them to the skill ( ?) of the finisher. Some of the pattern- 
makers who have perhaps not been favorably impressed 
with the appearance of finished goods may be willing to 
sympathize with me in this matter, as all of our craft know 
that neither the moulder nor the finisher ever fully real- 
izes the poor patternmaker's expec- 
tations. Still they are necessary 
evils that the manufacturer must 
continue to submit to. 

The castings from master patterns 
having been made, we proceed as 
follows: Fig. 103 is held in a 3-jaw 
chuck with its lower end out, the hole is drilled about 1-16 
in. under size, then bored nearly to size and finished with a 



Fig. 105. 




-^(i 




))N 



Fig. 106. 



242 



PATTERNMAKING. 



standard reamer to the required size, U, then mounted on 
an arbor, turned to size at T and S, the bottom end squared 
off true and flat, and the top end cut down within 1-32 in. 
of finished length. Now put a good, stiff face-plate on 
lathe spindle, see that the face is flat and runs perfectly 




Fig. 107. 

true, drill a }-in. hole in centre of plate and bore it out to 
about f -in. ; the boring is to bring the hole central. In this 
hole fix a short piece of brass or soft steel, shouldered 
against plate, and large enough to finish to size U. 

This stud may be secured by screw and washer from 
back side of face-plate, then finished to fit nicely in the 
reamed holes in parts made from Fig. 103. These parts 
are placed, one at a time, over the stud thus formed, the 



SOME PATTERNS. 243 

bottom end against the plate and secured by two L-shaped 
clips, placed with the long end on lugs shown on Figs. 104 
and 103, and then bolted to face-plate. 

The slide-rest is now set by trial until the tool cuts the 
first one to the exact length, after which all the rest may 
be cut to length without disturbing position of slide- 
rest. 

As any variation in length of the patterns will be repro- 
duced in the castings, it is well to be very careful in cutting 
to exact length, also when squaring bottom end it should 
be borne in mind that all of the patterns when fastened to 
plate C must stand up square and true or else the strip- 
ping-plate B will bind. 

Now make a former tool to fit P in Fig. 102, leaving a 
small fillet in corner next hexagon, and by replacing the 
pieces, one at a time, on face-plate and getting the tool in 
position, first feeding in until the diameter is right, and 
setting stop on cross-slide, then feeding toward face-plate 
until the length is right, clamp the slide-rest and all of the 
pieces may be formed up alike by using the cross-feed 
only. 

Parts made from Fig. 104 are made up in the same way, 
the hole being made like V, Fig. 102. 

Fig. 4 piece is turned between centres and the small end 
squared off, as no centre must be left in large end of fin- 
ished piece ; this end is left long, provision for this being 
made by the f-in. added to finish length, A of Fig. 105. 
A spring chuck is made to fit diameter U, and nearly as 
deep as finished length A; the pieces are placed in this 
chuck, cut off nearly to length required, then replaced, 
and the tool set until it finishes the first one to the exact 



244 PATTERNMAKING. 

length, then without disturbing tool all are finished to 
same length. 

There is a second set of stools similar to Fig. 105 required 
to fit hole V in part Fig. 104, but as these are small they 
may be made from machine-steel. 

In making up parts Fig. 104, one extra is carried along 
through the different operations, until turned to size, then 
diameter W is cut down to small size of hexagon. This 
is used by the milling- machine operator to gauge the other 
pieces when the hexagons are milled to size. 

As many of the posts, Y, and screws, Z, may be used as 
are thought necessary, but four screws, H, will be enough 
for any set of patterns. 

The plates B and C are cast solid, and the holes for the 
patterns in B are spaced equidistant from a centre line, 
and at right angles thereto, by using a jig ; the holes through 
C are drilled after the patterns are fastened in place. 

When the machine is operated to draw the patterns, 
plate C is dropped with the patterns which are fastened to 
it, plate B, the stripping-plate, remains stationary, with the 
flask and stools V and U, these stools being supported by 
stool-plate X, which in turn is fastened to plate B by bolts 
Y. The motion of C continues until it strikes set-screws 
H, at which point the patterns are entirely clear of the 
mould and the cores are still supported by the stools Y 
and U. 

A further movement of the machine may be made to 
raise flask from plate B, but as this is a critical moment, 
when a little unsteadiness in the lift may break some of 
the delicate cores, it has been found best, and especially 
so in the case of such small patterns as are illustrated, and 



SOME PATTERNS. 



245 



which require only short flask pins, to trust to the skill of 
the moulder in lifting the flask. This skill may vary as 
pay-day comes nearer; in fact, it may be entirely wanting 
immediately after pay-day. 

As the operation of the machine is evident, after the 
explanation given above and examination of Fig. 107, 
the only remaining point of interest to the patternmaker 




Fig. 108. 



is the laying out and drilling of plate B. This is done 
almost entirely by the use of the jig mentioned. 

The jig spoken of in the former article is illustrated by 
Fig. 108, and it consists of a bar A, with the ends projected 
to one side as shown, to allow of drilling holes directly on 
centre line AA, Fig. 109, thus making it possible to cover 
the entire plate and allow for placing a pattern anywhere on 
its surface. 

This bar has two guide pins, B and B„ which enter holes 
drilled at each end of plate, exactly on the centre line AA. 
All spacing is done from these holes, thus making sure that 



246 PATTERNMAKING. 

all patterns are at uniform distances from the same central 
line. This is a very important feature in work of this 
kind, as every other mould must be reversed to form a 
cope for the preceding nowel. 

The arm C is fitted to bar A with tongue and groove, 
which groove must be parallel with a line drawn through 
the centres of pins B and B„ and it may be clamped to A 
at any point by bolt through both parts at D. Arm C is 
slotted at right angles to A, for piece E, which consists of 
a hardened steel bushing held in place by clamping nut, 
and having a hole for a small drill. Finally the whole jig 
is so constructed that it may be used either side up. 

And now a few words will show how it is used. Having 
spaced off the plate roughly to ascertain how many patterns 
can be used, and decided upon their arrangement as re- 
gards gating, we are ready to drill our plate. 

Here is a good place to put in a few words about spacing. 
As I have given no dimensions to the castings for which 
these patterns are to be made, I can only approximate the 
spacing, and give a general rule for such work. Make the 
space between any two patterns in the same row not less 
than one-third of the height of the pattern, the distance 
between any two rows not less than one-half the height, 
and the distance from pattern to runner about one- half 
inch. 

To return to our drilling. Fig. 109 is a plan of plate B, 
Fig. 107, each of the small circles representing a pattern. 
As the gates for each double row of patterns run length- 
wise of the plate, and have an enlargement near one end 
where the sprue enters, this set of patterns must be arranged 
so that the alternate moulds may reverse by turning flask 



SOME PATTERNS. 



247 



from front to back, rather than endwise. This means that 
pattern i must be at the same distance from centre lines 
AA and BB as pattern la. This is accompHshed by setting 
bushing E, Fig. 108, to position for pattern i, and then by 
reversing the jig the hole for la may be drilled without 
disturbing the adjustment of jig, and further, as pattern 2 
is spaced at the same distance from line BB as pattern i, 



B 



r 



la 4 5a 8 9|a 7a 6 3a 2 



A-H© 



WWWWWWWW^ 
®® ® ® ® ® ® ® ® 



mWWWWWWW^ 
®®®®®®®®® 




^ 



WWWWWWWW^f 

1 4a 5 8a 9 7 6a 3 2a 
B 

Fig. 109. 



but on the opposite side, the jig is now turned over end for 

end, and 2 is drilled; then again reversing the jig we drill 

2a, thus drilling, or locating, four patterns with one setting 

of the jig. 

For the next hole, pattern 3, leave E, Fig. 108, clamped 

fast and loosen D, then slide arm C along bar A to position 
16 



248 PATTERNMAKING, 

for 3 and clamp; this adjusts jig for the next four holes, 3, 
3a, 4, and 4a, Fig. 109. It will be seen that the jig is 
made to follow the same motions that the half-moulds go 
through in using this set of patterns. By leaving E, Fig. 
108, clamped fast until one entire row of patterns length- 
wise of the flask, on each side of line AA, or line about 
which the half- moulds are revolved in making alternate 
copes and nowels, we locate each row of pattens in a 
straight line. 

If it is desired to turn the copes endwise instead of side- 
wise, let D, Fig. 108, remain clamped fast and loosen E for 
each successive set of four patterns, until a row of holes 
has been made across the plate on each side of line BB. 

The small holes are afterward enlarged by counterbores 
of size to fit diameter of round pattern, Fig. 104, and flat 
sides of hexagon pattern. Fig. 103. 

We now make a hexagon templet having on one side a 
short projection turned to fit counter-bored hole, or diam- 
eter of flats on pattern like Fig. 103, this hub, of course, 
to be central with hexagon. 

This templet is used to lay out the hexagon- shaped holes 
required for all patterns like Fig. 103. The holes are then 
counter-bored again, this time from the bottom side of 
plate, to a diameter slightly larger than corners of hexagon, 
and to a depth which will leave J'' thickness on top-surface 
to be filed through to lines marked around hexagon tem- 
plet. In laying out hexagons, always have one flat side 
next the gate. 

And now as to placing patterns. It will be understood 
that pattern 5a in nowel will become pattern 5 in cope, 
and as it takes one Fig. 103 piece and one Fig. 104 piece 



SOME PATTERNS. 249 

to make up a complete nut, there will be, in the completed 
flask, one each of Figs. 103 and 104 at 5, and also at 5a, 
and further, if at 5, on plate, we have elected to place 
one piece Hke Fig. 103, then there will be a Fig. 104 at 5a 
on the plate. Bearing this alternation of position in mind, 
the runners may be placed to connect only those patterns 
like Fig. 104, thus doing away with one- half of the runners 
and still having a runner to each casting. 

The only difference between cope and nowel in using 
patterns of this kind is made by the moulder in cutting 
the sprues through the cope, three for this set, but by 
leaving out one or two pieces at the sprue end of each row, 
in all but two outside rows, the gates may be joined so that 
the moulder can pour the entire mould from one sprue 
instead of three. 



CHAPTER III. 



A STRIPPING- PLATE JOB. 

The casting to be made is shown, full size, in Fig. no, 
and while it has since been demonstrated that it could be 
made on a simple vibrator plate, it was deemed advisable, 
as a great many would be used, to put it on a stripping- 
plate and save the metal which would be required to get 
the necessary draft for a vibrator-plate. Again, the cast- 
ings from the stripping-plate, besides having less stock to 

cut off, would be perfectly straight, 
making it very easy to hold them 
for machining. 

By looking at Fig. no it will be 
u ^^P observed that there is a cavity in 

each end of casting. The figure 
shows a vertical section; all lines 
in a plan view would be circles. 
The cavity at A is comparatively simple, and can be man- 
aged in the same way as that shown in bottom of waste- 
nut. Chapter II., Fig. 102. The other end, B, of this 
casting. Fig. no, is not so easily made, as it is necessary 
to provide a support for the central pin, C. This pin must 
be fastened to ring D in such a manner that it will move 
with D when drawing patterns, while the core which forms 
the cavity, B, remains fixed with the stripping-plate. This 
was accomplished as follows: 

250 




A STRIPPING-PLATE JOB. 



251 



The piece, Fig. no, was parted on line EF, which is also 
the top surface of stripping-plate, B, Fig. in. The pat- 
terns for upper end. A, were made like Fig. 112, of hard 
brass, and the stool, like Fig. 113, of machine-steel. Pat- 
tern for lower end, B, was, like Figs. 114 and 115, also of 
brass. This last figure shows the piece which forms the 




Fig. 



III. 



pin C. The stool for recess B, Fig. no, was made, like 
Fig. 116, of cast-iron; the lower part, up to line AB, being 
cast to finished size by the use of a core. The slot CD, 
being a Httle wider than the bar, A, of Fig, 115, the stool 
kept its relative position, while the stripping-plate A, Fig. 
Ill, moved up in the operation of drawing the patterns. 
In all forms of stripping-plates, especially in those with 



252 



PATTERNMAKING. 



stools, sand accumulates in the working parts and joints, 
and unless this accumulation can be easily removed con- 
siderable time is lost by the moulder. With the style of 
plates shown in Fig. iii (and in Fig. 
107, Chapter 11. ), when the machine 





Fig. 112. 



Fig. 113. 



is operated as for drawing the patterns, all of the stools 
are projected beyond the tops of patterns and may be 
readily taken out and cleaned, as they are not fastened in 
any way, their weight alone keeping them in place. 

Pieces 112, 113, 114, are finished in the same manner 
as was described in detail for parts 103, 104, and 105, in 
Chapter II. Fig. 115 was turned between centres and 
then soldered into 108, being held in position for soldering 
by a sleeve which fitted pin C and hole A, Fig. 114. 

The stool, Fig. 116, was the most difficult piece to make. 



A STRIPPING-PLATE JOB. 



253 



as can be seen, the size and shape of the casting making 
it hard to machine. 

First, the round hole which was cored in the lower end 
was reamed out, roughly, the free ends of casting being 
held in a ring, which was sHghtly tapered inside, and was 
forced out over the end. A bushing was then made to 
fit this reamed hole. As these holes were not all of exactly 
the same size, the bushing had to be fitted to the largest 
and forced into the smaller ones; and during the operation 




C03 



Fig. 114. 



Fig. 115. 



of drilling the casting was held firmly to bushing by a 
clamp- ring placed over outside of casting. This bushing 
was first used as a jig to guide drill for hole through upper 
end of Fig. 116, and with the hole in bushing, reamed out, 



254 



PATTERNMAKING. 



it was used to steady the reamer for sizing the drilled hole 
in Fig. 1 1 6. v 

Second, an arbor was made to fit this reamed hole, hav- 
ing at its opposite end a tapered sleeve, made in halves, to 
fill the varying sizes of holes in Fig. ii6. 
This sleeve was made in halves be- 
cause the two legs of each stool, not 
being of the same rigidity, did not 
spring equally when the bushing for drill- 
ing and reaming the upper end of Fig. 
ii6 was forced into place. 

The arbor was first pushed through 
the reamed hole and the half-sleeves 
slid into the lower end of Fig. ii6, 
until each half was nicely in contact 
with one of the legs, then the clamp- ring 
was placed over casting and tightened. 
This clamp was a plain ring with a 
set-screw tapped through it; the screw, 
with a stud in face-plate, made a driver 
for the work. 

Thus we were able to hold this slender 
casting between centres and finish the 
two ends and outside, above AB, true 
with the hole. 

The jig shown by Fig. io8, and de- 
scribed in Chapter IL, was used to space 
and drill stripping- plate for this job. 

The hole D through pattern-plate C, Fig. iii, was made 
of the size shown by dimension A, Fig. 114. This gave 
piece Fig. 115 the support of the pattern-plate. 




Fig. 116. 



A STRIPPING-PLATE JOB. ^ 255 

Castings made from this set of patterns, and from the 
set described in Chapter II., were fine examples of the 
patternmaker's skill. 

Plates B, C, and X, Fig. iii, correspond to those with 
similar letters in Fig. 107. Pattern-adjusting screw is let- 
tered Z in both figures, while the loose collar A, Fig. iii, 
is used for fixing the amount of lift, instead of screws, as 
shown at H, Fig. 107. 



CHAPTER IV. 

A VIBRATOR-PLATE PATTERN. 

The pneumatic tool, technically known as a "vibrator," 
and which gives, in the brass-foundry, the same or better 
results than the long roll played by the helper, with two 
rammers, on the inside of the sand-trough, enables us to 
successfully mould many pieces without going to the ex- 
pense of stripping-plates. One of these castings is shown 
in Fig. 117. 

This casting might be parted through the centre line of 
its length, but this would leave the joint of mould all the 
way around nut, making more work for the polisher. It 
was therefore decided to make the parting follow the corner 
A. This makes a crooked joint, as is seen by examining 
any hexagon nut made with chamfered ends. How to 
make this pattern is shown below. 

Fig. 117 shows a sectional view through largest diameter 
of nut, and a plan view. By inspection of the plan, it will 
be seen that the middle of flat side has a height equal to 
whole height, or thickness, of nut. Therefore, the parting 
in mould would range between A and B, while the parting 
in core had best be on line C. 

It will be noticed that letters are used to denote dimen- 
sions in the figures illustrating this chapter, the same letters 
being used through all of the figures. 

256 



A VIBRATOR-PLATE PATTERN. 



257 



Fig. ii8 shows two pieces: the nut, i, complete as re- 
gards the outside, but having only the larger end of core 
cut out, D diameter, and G depth. The end of nut is 
chamfered on the inside, at the end of opening, as shown 
at L; this strengthens the core by doing away with the 





Fig. 117. 



sharp angle which would otherwise occur at this point. 
The flat sides and the inside of D require a little draft. 
The other piece, 2, in this figure, is a ring bored to fit 
over the chamfered end of nut, as shown in the figure, with 



258 



PATTERNMAKING. 



the outside diameter Y greater than largest diameter of 
nut, as is indicated by the dimension F-j-J''. The thick- 
ness of this ring must be equal to amount of chamfer on 
nut, I. When these two pieces are placed together, as 
shown in Fig. ii8, the chamfered ring fits over the nut 
and leaves pockets at each flat side. This arrangement 
makes the parting line follow the corner, A, Fig. 117, and 
thus forms the crooked joint necessary. These pockets 
are shown very plainly in Fig. 119, which is a section 

\^ F J 

^__, K- A 

D- 




FiG. 118. 



through flats, or shortest diameter of nut. The pockets, 
shown at their greatest depth, the thickness of ring 2, are 
seen at M. 

For the mating part of this mould, the pattern 3, Fig. 
120, is required. This leaves a cavity in the mould which 
fits over and around the six little projections of sand, 
formed by pockets M, Fig. 119, for each nut in the set. 
As these projections would be very easily crushed in closing 
the mould, and thus ruin the castings, the piece 3, Fig. 



A VIBRATOR-PLATE PATTERN. 



259 



120, is made slightly larger in diameter than the nut, as is 
indicated by the dimension marked F+i-64". 

Part 3 has the flange thickness, marked I, of same thick- 
ly K H 

.D J 




Fig. 119. 

ness as ring 2, which also has the thickness marked I. 
Part 3 also completes the core by means of the cavity, E 
diameter, and H depth. The projection, N, on bottom of 
Fig. 120, is merely for centring and locating part 3. 

As many sets of Figs. 118 and 120 were made as would 
be required to fill the flask, three pieces in each set, as 
shown. 

U F+^ J 

^ K+/f 

k E- 4 



•1 




Fig. 120. 



This set of patterns was fitted into a pine plate, the 
plate being first made weather-proof by saturating with 
hot paraffine. 



26o PATTERNMAKING. 

The plate was then laid out by spacing the centres of 
patterns, working from centre lines. After the centres 
were marked, the plate was chucked in the lathe, bringing 
each pattern centre successively to the centre of the lathe, 
and then fitting in parts 2 and 3 as required. Part 2 is 
fitted down flush with the surface of plate, and part 3 let 
in until the flange rests on plate. 

The patterns were made of brass, that the completed 
plate might have weight, thus doing away with the neces- 
sity of fastening the plate down to moulding machine. 

The patterns might be made of wood, but they would 
then be so light that the moulder would have trouble in 
separating the mould from the patterns and plate, which 
is, as all patternmakers know, a vital point in foundry 
work. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE EVOLUTION OF THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 

Patternmakers are perhaps as a rule fully up to 
other tradesmen in the matter of progression, and instead 
of making all sizes of globe valves after the style shown 
in Chapter X. of Part Fourth, as regards cores, we now 
produce castings up to t" and "]" sizes without making 
the cores in halves, or in the expensive box shown for the 
id" valve. 

It will readily be understood that the i6" style of 
box becomes a very fragile and deHcate affair when made 
for small valves; it being extremely difficult to make 
these small boxes durable, and keep them in good repair. 

The patterns for the small sizes are, in most respects, 
like the it" already illustrated; the principal difference 
being that the small ones are not made hollow. All 
that has been said of the i6^' pattern, after gluing up, 
will apply to the ones now under consideration. But 
when we come to the core-box, that which applies to the 
\d" valve does not fit this case at all. 

The box, or boxes, there being two required, in general 
use now, make the cores as shown in Fig. 121. Before 
describing this box, I shall refer briefly to a style of box 
which enjoyed a short and brilUant career, but had no 
staying qualities. 

261 



262 



PATTERNMAKING. 



This box I have endeavored to illustrate in Fig. 122. 
It was commonly made of wood, although some were, I 




Fig. 121. 



beheve, made of cast iron. It was in six pieces, four of 
wood and the other two smaller ones of brass. The 




Fig. 122. 



brass parts formed the seat and dividing partition. 
The core, when taken from the box, was complete, and 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 263 

only needed baking to be ready for the mould. The 
manner of production was as follows: 

Referring to the \t" box, which parts the core in a 
plane parallel to the spindle of the valve, we have only 
to make the two half-boxes, each from a single piece of 
stock and without the "half-moon" and ''wings," to 
illustrate the first move in making the box shown in 
Fig. 122. After the two pieces of stock are squared up 
and jointed together, they are fitted with four dowels. 
A A A A, two each side of the angular partition, B K. 
Lay down on the joint face of the half without pins the 
centre Hnes, C D and E F, and carry them over to the 
side opposite the joint, which side should be strictly 
parallel with the joint. 

Lay down the two lines marking the thickness of the 
angular partition, carrying them entirely around the 
box ; then locate the half -box on a face-plate by centring 
the intersection of lines C D and E F. After testing in 
the lathe to see that it is centred correctly, fit on the 
other haK by its dowels, and mark the centre on the 
outside, or turn a shallow recess to fit a face-plate; thus 
matching the two halves for turning out the body sphere. 

If you are now careful, in turning, to make both halves 
of the same diameter, they will match nicely at the 
parting. A circular templet, turned in the lathe, is best 
for testing the box while turning; and a depth gauge, 
set to one-half the inside diameter of ball, makes it 
possible to use the complete circle as a templet, without 
crossbar or line to gauge the depth. 

The three ends, C, D, and E, may also be bored out in 
the lathe, if your lathe is equipped with a slide rest; in 



264 PATTERNMAKING. 

fact, the entire box may be finished in the lathe as was 
the custom for core-boxes for small and medium sizes of 
valves. The only parts worked by hand were the round 
corners where the three ends join the globe. 

The box should now have four holes, two in each half, 
drilled through parallel with the joint, on lines G H and 
/ /. These holes must also be parallel with centre line 
EF, and for a 2^' valve, they should be }i'^ diameter. 
Use brass rod for these dowels, and place them so as to 
leave the distance from K to outside of box at L a little 
more than the length of B, the piece shown in Fig. 124. 

The fifth piece. A', of brass, for a 2'' valve, should be 
^'' thick. This piece was a casting, the pattern for 
which was made in this way: 

A squared block of wood is fastened to a face-plate and 
bored out to receive the pieces A and B, Fig. 123, which 
pieces are turned up as a spUt pattern, with the end C 
like the outHne of seat M N O, Fig. 122. Then the face 
of block is carefully cut away, on the angle of partition, 
until the cavity left in the face allows the piece A to 
enter to the depth which the seat, M N 0, projects 
beyond line B K, Fig. 122. This fine will be the face of 
the completed chuck. Then fasten a small piece of wood 
in the cavity in such a position that after it has been cut 
off even with the face of chuck, the centre can be located 
and centre lines marked across the face at right angles, 
using the squared sides of block as a guide for so locating 
them, the block having been beveled so that opposite 
sides are of even thickness. 

Now get out the plate B K, and draw centre lines, one 
for the joint of the box, and another at right angles with 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 265 

the first, on each side of B K, where the Hne E F inter- 
sects either surface of B K. Locate the plate on the 
chuck by these centre Unes and fasten. Bore out until 
the piece A , Fig. 123, will go through to its place in chuck; 
now turn plate B K over, bringing the 
edge which was on thin side of chuck 
to the thick side of chuck, and locat- 
ing by the centre Knes, fasten and bore 
out to fit piece B. This piece may now 
be glued to the plate, — be very careful 



to keep it central. After the glue is p^^ 

dry, cut off all of B that projects above 
the surface of plate B K, and turn plate over to its first 
position. Glue in the other half. A, of seat, cut off even 
with the plate, and then bore out to line P Q R, Fig. 122. 
Again reverse the plate and bore out to line S T 0, this 
time boring through seat, for opening, and rounding 
corner, as at T. 

Now take the piece from chuck, and after rounding 
the corners where circular seat comes to the surface of 
plate B K, finish with shellac and send to the foundry 
for casting. 

Note this point: if the piece B K has been correctly 
made, the thickness through seat is as much greater than 
thickness of seat A in Fig. 126 (which is a core of the 
same size as the one made in box shown in Fig. 122) as 
the thickness of plate B K, when measured on line E F, is 
greater than thickness of angular partition measured on 
the same line. This extra thickness is taken up by the 
disk A, on anchor mould, Fig. 124, the piece B K, being 
recessed on top side to receive this disk, as at R, Fig. 122. 



266 



PATTERNMAKING. 



The space between lines for angular partition is now 
cut away and brass plate B K located and drilled for 
the }i'' rods. These rods may now be fastened in the 
box; the rod G fastened in C end and rod J in D end. 
Having the plate B K in position, put the piece A" against 
the edge of plate and fasten securely! Repeat this 
operation for Y and fasten to other end of box. These 
pieces, bearing against the edge of plate, hold the parts 
of box firmly in position, and as they are made the 
exact thickness of angular partition, they also serve to 
bring the ends C and D into Une after plate B K has been 
removed. 

The sixth and last piece of box is the anchor mould, 
Fig. 124, made of brass, the two ends being alike on each 






Fig. 125. 



side of the centre disk, A. The pattern from which this 
is cast can be used for the anchor shown in Fig. 125, by 
removing the disk A^ 125 being exactly like 124 with 
disk removed and the ends brought together. 

In making the core, the end C, which is the inlet end 
uf valve, is made first, the plate B K and piece 124 being 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 



267 



in place. Then the box is laid with F side down, end 
E is put on and box filled up, the print finished and nailed. 
With side G E I on core-plate, remove end C, leaving 
plate B K down. Set this part, with core still in box, 
down on print end C, then draw off plate B K and remove 
anchor mould, 124. Daub an anchor, Fig. 125, with 
paste and set it in part D, put on inlet end, and having 
removed clamps, draw the box away from core, leaving 
the completed core standing on end E, ready for the 
oven. 

I have been at some pains to describe this obsolete 
form of core-box because nearly the same operations are 




Fig. 126. 



gone through in making the wooden masters for the 
core-boxes in use to-day. 

Still another form of box for the small valves is shown 
in Fig. 126. These valves have what is technically 
known as a ''bibb" seat, that is, Kke the seat of a com- 
pression bibb or faucet. This seat, A A, was formerly 
made to draw out through the side of the box, and all of 
wood. The next step was to make the slides, A A^ oi 



268 PATTERNMAKING. 

brass. Then the box was made of cast iron and the 
slides cut through. The cast-iron boxes were at first 
made from square, solid blocks, and after being planed 
up and dowelled together, the outline of core was laid 
out on the joint side, but before cutting the box out (this 
cutting was done in the lathe after the manner described 
for the wooden box, Fig. 122) the seat was laid out, cut 
through both halves and the slides fitted. 

These openings were then filled with lead to prevent 
the corners from chipping off when working out the 
inside. Rather an expensive box, but this was improved 
upon by casting the two halves from wood or plaster 
masters, then laying out and fitting the sHdes from the 
outside of box. This was again bettered by casting the 
half boxes complete with seat, from plaster masters, 
which is the present method. 

Some foundries will prefer metal patterns, which may 
be made from master patterns, allowing for the extra 
shrinkage and also for finish on patterns where necessary. 
It is well to have the flanges loose, and flanges may also 
be made of wood to lessen the weight of pattern. The 
grooves for locating and holding the flanges in place 
should be finished in the lathe, as should also the prints. 
If patterns for use on a moulding machine are required, 
this same master may have flanges fitted, and the entire 
pattern made of cast iron. 

The iron patterns should be lightened by coring out 
the inside, and to accomplish this we shall need a core- 
box. This box may be quickly and cheaply made of 
plaster. We must have a core-stick exactly like the core 
needed, but as the inside of pattern need not be made 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 269 

to exact dimensions, we need not spend much time in 
sizing the stick. Make calculations for dowel pins and 
rapping holes in the iron patterns if they are wanted 
for floor moulders. If they are for the machine, no rap- 
ping holes will be required. The pattern should have a 
dowel at the end of each print and one place for rapping 
at the centre of its weight. 

After the core-stick, commonly called the Hghtening 
core-stick, is finished with at least two coats of shellac, 
give it a good surface, for it will not work well unless 
it is smooth; make a frame, like a box without top or 
bottom, large enough to hold the stick and leave a margin 
of not less than half an inch on all sides. The depth of 
this frame should be half an inch greater .than the greatest 
depth of stick. Give the core-stick a good coat of tallow. 
Don't use oil, because it runs off and fills up the corners. 
While this would be no serious matter in a core-box of 
this kind, it would spoil a regular core-box, and it is well 
not to form the habit. Don't put the tallow on an eighth 
of an inch thick, but be sure that every portion of the 
surface is greased; if you miss any part, the plaster will 
find the dry spots, as you will discover to your sorrow. 

Make ready a surface plate as large as the box you are 
going to make. As this may be used over and over 
again, it will pay to make a good one. It should be well 
varnished to make a good surface, and prepared with a 
coating of tallow to prevent the plaster from sticking. 
Now place the stick with its flat side on surface plate and 
fasten it down. As the plate forms the joint side of 
box, we should take pains to keep the stick, and also the 
frame which will form the outside of box, down on the 



2 70 PATTERNM AKING. 

plate. The stick may be held down by a screw, put 
through the plate from the bottom; and the frame can 
be held by handscrews. To this end the plate should 
be held up from surface of bench or floor by strips of 
wood fastened to its bottom side, and high enough to 
keep the handscrews from striking. These strips also 
keep the surface plate flat, thus serving a double purpose. 

We are now ready to mix the plaster, and, if you have 
never made any plaster moulds, you had better experi- 
ment a little in order that you may learn how to get the 
best results. A good general rule is to mix the plaster as 
thick as it will run. It should also be mixed thoroughly 
and as quickly as possible. Test by the appearance and 
also by the touch. You will find that you obtain the best 
results when the plaster is so mixed that it feels and looks 
greasy when ready to pour, and it then sets very quickly 
after pouring. The proportions of plaster and water 
depend a good deal upon the freshness of the plaster, as 
does the time required for mixing. 

Well, supposing that you know all about plaster (I 
don't), or have learned by this time; mix your plaster 
and pour; then, as soon as possible, strike off the top of 
your mould, which will be the bottom of the completed 
box, and nail on a board to protect the plaster. After re- 
moving handscrews and screw in core-stick, turn over the 
box, and after thoroughly rapping the stick, draw it out. 
You will now be able to appreciate some of the difficulties 
which beset the moulder's way, although your plaster 
mould will not break up as easily as his sand mould; to 
offset this the sand mould, by rapping, becomes a little 
larger than the pattern, thus facilitating the operation of 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 271 

drawing the pattern. The plaster mould cannot be en- 
larged by rapping, but if you have greased the stick 
thoroughly, it will come out readily enough, then the box 
should have two or three coats of thin shellac, when it is 
ready '^f or the core-maker. 

After experimenting with the lightening core-stick and 
box, we are now ready for the more important regular 
core-box. It is proposed to make this box of plaster, and 
to use the plasters as patterns to get iron castings, which, 
after being jointed together and dowelled, will make a 
first-class box, and a cheap one. 

The boxes : I say boxes, because the best and cheapest 
way to make globe valve cores is to make them in two 
parts, like Fig. 121, and paste them together after they 
are baked. This will require two boxes, and they need 
to be very nice ; therefore make them of plaster. 

For the core-stick we shall want stuff got ready to 
make two pieces like Fig. 127, two for 130, and one for 
129. The two like Fig. 127 are to be jointed together 
and turned like a spHt pattern, making, as seen by re- 
ferring to the illustration, one pipe end and the ball or 
globe. The ball should be turned as nearly as possible 
with its centre, or axis, exactly in the joint. The dimen- 
sions should also be very accurate, making due allow- 
ance for the shrinkage of the iron box which is to be made 
from the plaster patterns. Separate the two parts, and 
chuck one of them. Fig. 127, with the ball in the centre 
of the lathe, and the fiat surface of joint perfectly true. 
When this is done, if you centred the piece exactly in 
the joint when it was turned up, you have now put it 
in the lathe at right angles with its first position^ with the 



272 



PATTERNMAKING. 



centre line of lathe perpendicular to the plane of the joint. 
The other half should now be placed upon 127 and fast- 
ened. Now bore through the last piece to the outside 
diameter of the cell-like partition which surrounds the 
seat and separates the inlet from the outlet, marked by 
the broken Hne a, in Fig. 128. Then, removing this half, 





Fig. 127. 



Fig. 128. 



we finish 127 by carrying the bore down to the bottom 
of the seat, indicated by line h in Fig. 127. 

The seat of a globe valve, in most cases, comes in the 
centre of the ball. In a case where it does not, this 
part, Fig. 127, should be cut down an amount equal to 
the greatest distance which either side of the seat may be 
away from the centre, and a thin plate of wood fitted in 
the recess to bring the surface near enough to the centre 
of the ball to correspond with the other side of seat. 
Bore the small hole, marked h, through 127. This com- 
pletes the lathe work on these two pieces, so put on a 
coat of shellac and proceed with 129. 

This piece forms the yoke or hub end of the core-stick, 
and the print is made tapering so that it may draw easily 
out of the box, as will be shown further on. It will be 
seen by the broken lines in Fig. 129 that it is hollowed 
out to fit over the ball and has a pin at the centre turned 
to fit h, Fig. 127. This serves to bring 129 central with 
127 when making the yoke end of box. Give the part 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 



273 



shown in Fig. 129 a coat of varnish and pass on to Fig. 
130. There are two views of this piece for the reason 
that, while all other parts shown are circular, except that 
portion of Figs. 127 and 129 marked by lines c d, which is 
a fiat surface or plane, extending across the valve at right 
angles with its length, this piece. Fig. 129, is sometimes 
made with a flat side, as is shown in the plan view. 
(This part of the stick is sometimes made square and 
sometimes round.) The largest diameter of Fig. 130 is 








Fig. 129. 



Fig. 130. 



equal to that of the hole which is to be cast through the 
seat of the valve, while the distance from a to & marks 
the thickness of the seat in the casting. The rest of 
this piece shows the pin which is to be formed on one 
part of the core to enter a corresponding recess in the 
other part, while the fiat side (or square) brings the two 
parts into line when the cores are pasted together. The 
amount taken off to form the flat side is found by divid- 
ing the circumference of the pin into four equal parts 
and cutting off one of them. In other words, the fiat 
side in the plan view is a chord of 90 degrees of the cir- 
cumference of the pin. This gives ample surface without 



274 PATTERNMAKING. 

weakening this important part of the core. As this pin 
can be no hirger than the hole through scat of valve, it 
will be seen that, in making small valves, this becomes a 
very important consideration. 

This piece. Fig. 130, also has a pin, c, to fit the hole b, 
in Fig. 127. The shoulder at a, Fig. 130, affords another 
guide for the core-maker in assembling the cross-together, 
and it will be found that this shoulder affords a much 
better guide for the thickness of the seat than does the 
fit of the pin. 

Now, returning to pieces 127 and 128, draw a line 
around the ball at the angle shown by the line c d. The 
plane represented by this line must be at right angles 
with the length of the valve. To draw this line, make a 
templet by fastening a thin piece of wood on a face-plate, 
and, after turning one side true, bore a hole through 
the piece of the same diameter as the ball of core-stick. 
Then lay off on the stick the points c, Fig. 127, one on 
each side at joint, measuring from the joint, which is 
also the centre, to correspond with the drawing of valve, 
and two points, d, Fig. 127, which mark the intersection 
of the angular partition with the ball. These points 
must all be taken from the drawing, and all must be 
half the thickness of angular partition from the centre 
plane of ball. 

Now, having four points in the desired line, by applying 
the plane templet so that it will touch all four, we may 
draw a line around the ball in the desired position. 

Piece 128 may now be quickly finished. All that 
remains to be done is to cut it off to the fine cd and 
round over the corners formed by the junction of the 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 275 

plane surface, c d^ with the circumference of the cell 
marked by the line a, and the angles at surface of ball. 

Piece 127 requires a little more time. There must 
be left at e a circular projection having the same centre 
as the cell a, Fig. 128. This centre is in the line EF, 
Fig. 122, but has a radius equal to that of a, minus the 
thickness of cellular partition. This difference of radius 
should be the same at correspondingly equal distances, 
measured in opposite direction from the plane surface 
e, Fig. 127. The circumference of this projection may 
be drawn upon the surface marked by line a e, and then 
worked down, using a bevel to get the correct taper, 
but because of the constantly varying depth of surface 
of the projection, which makes the use of a bevel or 
templet with a blade of fixed length anything but nice, 
a much better way is to turn a piece about three inches 
long, having its largest diameter equal to diameter of 
projection on line a and having the right taper, not 
forgetting to leave a pin on the large end to fit hold 6, 
Fig. 127. This plug, being placed on the surface a, 
with its pin in hole h, gives us at once the diameter and 
the correct angle. The projection may then be worked 
off to match, with the help of a straight-edge. 

Then taking care to make the surface c d 2i plane 
surface, and leaving a fillet at the intersection of plane 
and projection, we may finish up this piece very nicely. 
Round off the corners at e and c d, the same as was 
done on piece 128. The fillet should be of the same 
radius as the round corner. 

These pieces, 127, 128, 129, and 130, should all be 
finished with at least two coats of shellac, making them, 



276 PATTERNMAKING. 

if possible, a little better as regards surfaces than a 
regular pattern, and you will be repaid for your trouble 
when you come to the plaster work. 

Now we shall want a box equal in length to Fig. 127, 
plus one inch; in width, to the diameter of ball plus 
two inches, and in depth to the combined height of 
pieces 127, 128, and 130. This box must be put together 
with screws; no bottom is needed. 

To make the first part of plaster core-box, the hub or 
yoke end, Figs. 132 and 133, we shall need a wedge- 
shaped piece that shall fill up the space between the 
continuation of Hne/<:, Fig. 127, and c d, or as near cd 
as the rounded corner will permit. 

By laying the part seen in Fig. 127 on the plaster- 
board and trying a square around the outside at cd, 
we may find the largest points on core-stick. These 
points will mark the joint in core-box, and the rounding 
of the corner should be so done that the points shall 
come in a straight line when viewed in the position of 
Fig. 127. The wedge-shaped piece should be cut to lay 
on the board and come up to the line marked by these 
points ; continuing the inclined surface, c d, ]4!' beyond 
d^ and then cutting off parallel with / c. This piece and 
part 127, when laid together, should just fill the length 
of box. It would be well to give the inside of box and 
inclined surface of wedge one or two coats of varnish. 

Put the part shown in Fig. 129, in place of 127, and 
coat them nicely with tallow; then the surface of board, 
the inside of box, and inclined surface of wedge are all 
to have a coating of tallow. Fasten 127 on the board 
with the wedge under c J, and put the box over them. 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 



277 



Mix and pour the plaster, filling the box to a level with 
end of print on part 129. Remove stick and plaster 
from the board and trim off any surplus of plaster at 
the end of print on 127, also at the joint /^, and draw 
out the stick. 
You will now have a block of plaster like Fig. 131. 





Fig. 131. 



Fig. 132. 



Give the inner surface a coat of shellac. Be careful of 
the corners, because we all know that, while fins are really 
necessary to fishes, they are neither useful nor ornamental 
on cores. 
Now go over the surface of pieces 127 and 129 again 




Fig. 133. 

with tallow, put them back into plaslter block 131, and 
coat the surface which was in contact with the board 
and wedge, and which forms the joint of core-box, with 



278 



PATTERNMAKING. 



tallow. Lay the plaster and stick on the board with 
Jed, Fig. 127, up ttiis time. Put the box back in place 
around them, not forgetting to tallow all parts which 
plaster will touch. 

Piece seen in Fig. 128 is now to receive a coating of 
tallow, and is then fastened to 127 by a wood screw 
through core-print and a nail through each of the points, 
d; then plug hole h. 

We are now ready to cast the second part of box, see 
Figs. 135 and 136. Fill up with plaster, this time, to 





\ 'WlX ^ e— 





Fig. 134. 



Fig. 135. 



half an inch above c. Fig. 128. Remove box and scrape 
off surplus at end of 128. The two blocks of plaster 




Fig. 136. 



may be separated by laying on the side and gently tap- 
ping on end of core-print, Fig. 129. This second plaster • 
will be like Fig. 134. 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 



279 



Once more we go through the same operations, using 
plaster 131, and sticks 127, 128, and 129. Remove the 
plug from hole b, and substitute in its place piece 130. 
This part should be placed with its fiat side at right 
angles with the length of stick. 

Fill up the box to the top of piece 130, scrape off even 





Figs. 138, 139. 



Fig. 137. 

with 130 and 128; the re- 
sulting block of plaster this 
time being like Fig. 137. 

For the fourth and last 
cast, lay piece 135 on the 
board, with sticks 130, 127, 
and 128, leaving off 129 and 
plugging hole b. This time the plaster is Hke Fig. 140. 

These plasters are now to be cut off to the shapes shown 
in elevations 132, 135, 138, and 141, and corresponding 
plans, 133, 136, 139, and 142. 

For a 6'^ valve the plaster patterns should be about 
^/g'' thick. Each part to have lugs for dowels, four in 
number and large enough for )4'' dowels, the lugs being 
left about ^/^^ thick and having a projection beyond 
outside of box of at least }4'\ As to the shape of outside 
of plaster, keep the thickness as near uniform as possible, 



28o 



PATTERNMAKING. 



not forgetting the core-maker, who will need a place to 
put the clamp on and will want each box to stand alone, 
with the open ends up. For these purposes, Figs. 131 
and 134 have the projections at d left on, and pieces 137 
and 140 have e. These four plaster patterns are to be 




Fig. 141. 




Fig. 142. 



Fig. 140. 

varnished and handed over 
to the tender mercies of 
the moulder. 

There remains to be 
made a pin like Fig. 130,* 
which is properly a part of 
Fig. 134, but is not cast 
on this piece because of 
the difficulty in finishing, 
and in so locating the flat side that when the two 
cores are put together they shall be straight. I make 
this pin of brass, lea\ing stock for finishing all over; 
plenty on all parts that can be turned and but little on 
the flat side, that it may be finished with a file. For a 
6'^ valve, make this pin in two pieces, as shown by 
Figs. 143 and 144; making 143 so that it will be yl" 
thick after finishing, and 144 with the round pin 1" in 
diameter. 

* Fig. 130 is for a valve without seat ring, the enlarged collar be- 
tween a and h taking its place. This collar is wanting in the pin 
shown in Figs. 143 and 144, this pin being for a valve with seat ring. 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 



281 



Now as to finishing the castings in making up this 
box: begin with 135, filing f g down to a surface plate, 
without removing any more metal than is necessary, 
then cutting down ef until you have only the half of 
the full circle of print left. At the same time be careful 
to keep the two sides of the box the same distance from 
the top of seat at h; also clean off the top at g. Now 







Fig. 143. 



Fig. 144. 



fit part 141 to 135, being careful not to cut off too much 
iron at the joint of box ; using a pair of calipers to fix this 
point. 

After 141 has been fitted to 135, 138 should in turn be 
fitted to 141, using the inside calipers at end c, Fig. 141, 
and a depth gauge set to the correct distance for end a, 
Fig. 138, from the surface b, Fig. 141. Clean out the 
hole left by pin 130 in piece 138, then fit brass pin, 
pieces 143 and 144, to this hole; having first fitted 144 
down into the open end of 143. Set 144 down about 



282 



PATTERNMAKING. 



yi" below end of 143 and solder strongly in place. Then 
finish the two, 143 and 144, between centres, to fit 
138. Having fitted these, first to diameter of hole in 
138, then to length, leaving end a, Fig. 143, about %" 
long, turn the pin on 144 to Vk" diameter, cut it off a 
Httle short of the thickness of 135 at h. We must now 
centre 135 very carefully and drill hole to locate brass 
pin, which is to be fastened in place by a cap screw and 
washer, underneath h. 

Now fit 132 to 135, testing from time to time to find 
if the brass pin is coming central with opening m, in 
132, using the inside calipers at end e, also the depth 
gauge, set to correct distance for end w. Fig. 132, from 
surface h, Fig. 135. As the pin, 143 and 144, forms the 
hole through the seat of valve, it is evident that when it 
is central in opening w, the yoke opening and the hole 
through seat in casting must come true. 

Drill dowel pin holes in parts 131 and 141, from the 
joint side. Then fasten the halves of the two boxes 
together with solder, 131 and 135 making one box, and 
138 and 141 the other. By handling carefully, the 
solder will hold while drilHng the dowel holes back 
through 135 and 138. 

The boxes may then be broken apart, and dowels of 
hard steel wire driven into parts 135 and 138. These 
dowels should be made with a slight taper in order that 
they may be adjusted from time to time to compensate 
for wear. 

The brass plug should now be removed and the four 
pieces of core-box heated until they will melt paraffine 
wax, which should be applied to the inside surface to 



THE GLOBE VALVE CORE-BOX. 283 

prevent rusting. After the parts are again cooled, scrape 
off all superfluous wax and fix brass plug in place, with 
its flat side at right angles with print k, Fig. 135, and 
send the boxes out for a sample core. 

This sample core should be furnished in two pieces, 
that is, without pasting together. The cores are now put 
together dry, and tried by a straight-edge to find if the 
prints, e, Fig. 135, and c, Fig. 141, come in line; if they 
are not in line, turn the brass plug in its hole in 135. If 
the plug is made round it may be fitted more readily 
and accurately to the hole in part 138; neither will there 
be the trouble of locating the flat side to fit mating 
surface of 138, which might be a little off square, and the 
round plug will hold just as well after pasting as the one 
with the flat side. 

If you find, upon examining the sample core, that in 
fitting plug you have not made proper allowance for the 
physical development of the core-maker, and the pin 
B, Fig. 121, is too large for the hole left by the plug in 
the other part of core, you may correct this by either 
cutting off end of plug which touches surface h^ Fig. 135, 
if the hole is too large; or by putting a thickness of sheet 
metal under this end if hole is too small. 

After getting a sample core that tests out all right, 
drill and dowel the plug to part 135 if it is made with a 
flat side as illustrated by Fig. 130. 



CHAPTER VI. 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



In the continuous and universal effort to reduce the 
cost of cores, the multiple core-box has always been a 
favorite device. 

The multiple box saves time by enabling the core- 
maker to ram up two, four, or as many cores as the box 
may be arranged for, at once; each necessary operation 
being performed in less time because the workman is not 
obKged to go through the whole cycle of motions for 
each separate core. 

A single handful of sand may be sufficient for a dozen 
cores; and it would, of course, require the same time to 
pick up one handful whether the box made one or a 
dozen cores. 

If, for example, the box makes five cores, as in the one 
illustrated by Fig, 147, the core-maker has to drop 
his rammer and pick up his strike but once instead 
of five times, as would be necessary for a box mak- 
ing but one core. When the box is made for a 
greater number of cores, the advantage is also greater. 
In fact, the saving is so apparent that it requires no 
explanation. 

I don't know when the first multiple box was made, 
but it must have been very soon after the first core was 

284 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



285 



used. My first experience was with boxes for oil cups, 
such as are shown in Fig. 145. 

These had been made for a single core, and as the 
pattern had but one print, this print had to be long 
enough to balance the core when setting and to hold it 
securely in place when the mould was poured. It must 
also have a guide for setting, as the shoulder at A, Fig. 
145. The core-prints, so made, took up considerable 
room in the flask, a part of which, it was thought, might 



A 





Fig. 145. 



Fig. 146. 



be saved by making the cores double, as shown in Fig. 

146. The double core would balance itself on the print 
between patterns, which print need only be long enough 
to prevent crushing when setting and pouring. The ring 
at the centre locates the core. 

This core had to be rammed up in halves, then pasted 
in the box which was provided with dowels for this pur- 
pose. The dowels were placed both at one side as shown. 
Both were on the same side of box that they might not 
interfere in striking off the half cores made in the pin 
side of box. The plan did not result in cheapening the 
cores, but did increase the day's output of castings. 

A very common form of multiple box is shown in Fig. 

147, where A, B, C, D, and E show recesses for straight, 
round cores. F F on the joint view are dowels, and 



286 



PATTERNMAKINO. 



are placed as shown, rather than at opposite corners, to 
prevent the core-maker from mis-matching the halves 
when putting them together. This happens oftener 
with two pin boxes than might be thought possible. 
Unless the box happens to be drilled so that it matches 
closely when assembled wrong, the core-maker will see 
his error and correct it before llUing the box with sand. 
This correction takes time, and as many cores are made 




O' 



a 



''' 



About 5^^ 
l<"lti. 147. 



^h4 



on the piece-work plan, the core-maker, as well as the firm, 
suffers for the time lost. Some core-makers prefer three 
pins, two at one end and one at the other. This is, 
perhaps, better than the two-pin plan illustrated. A 
box with three pins is shown in Fig. 148. 

The space G, Fig. 147, should be as small as is con- 
sistent with strength; in most cases it need not be over 
H'\ and the dimension // must be made to suit the size 
of dowel used; for >^'' dowels it need not be over K"- 
Then the total length should not exceed five inches, in 
order that the half-box may be easily spanned by one 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



287 



hand in lifting off. The thickness / of the half-box can 
usually be made equal to the greatest radius of core 
plus %" . If the cores are large ("large" for this kind 
of core, would be \" in diameter), some of the metal 
at the back should be cut away in the master, to reduce 
the weight of the finished box. 

For making up such boxes as are illustrated in Fig. 
147, a stock of castings — gray iron, of course, is under- 
stood — of such dimensions as had by experience been 
found desirable were kept on hand. When such a box 
was to be made, a pair of these castings were prepared 
by planing to the required width (the length of desired 
core) and thickness. Dowels were then put in and the 
box, having been laid off by locating the centres of cores 
on each end, was drilled between centres, from each end 
to the middle of length of core. A small drill was first 
used, followed up with larger sizes until the holes were of 
the required size. The last drill, or perhaps the special 
reamer, which may be necessary for a core of some 
unusual size, should have but little stock to take out. 

When the cores are as shown in Fig. 148, or of an 
irregular shape, which could not be readily finished or 






^ QQQQQ 


3' 2' 1 2 3 



Fig. 148. 

produced by the method above noted, the boxes were 
usually cast from a plaster master-box. This master 
requires some very nice work on the patternmaker's 



288 PATTERNMAKING. 

part, both in making the core-sticks, as they are called, 
and again in placing them for pouring the plaster, it 
being understood that only a half -box is made of plaster. 

A good point to remember when placing the sticks, 
which are in halves, is this: As it is quite likely that 
some, if not all, of the sticks needed — three will be needed 
for the box shown in Figs. 147 and 148 — will, when 
finished, be found to have one half greater than the other, 
number the halves in pairs as they are turned; then if 
the box is to have an odd number of cores, select the 
most accurate stick of the lot for the centre core, and after 
discarding its mate, place the others as indicated by the 
numbers in Fig. 148. 

A moment's reflection will show that the half-boxes 
cast from this master must, in finishing, be assembled 
so that the A end of one will meet the B end of its mating 
half. In so doing it will be seen, by referring to the 
numerals in Fig. 148, that cavity No. i reverses on 
itself; for this reason the best half -stick was chosen for 
this position, because any error in thickness of stick 
would be doubled in the assembled box. Cavity No. 2 
matches No. 2', and 3 matches 3', thus making the 
core round by bringing together the cavities made from 
the halves of one round stick. To such as are unaware 
of the skill possessed by some moulders, the accuracy 
with which such castings are produced seems marvelous. 

The cores for Fig. 145 might be made from such a box 
as is shown in Fig. 148, as one end would be open to view 
in fitting up and for the reception of sand in making 
cores. From this box, a saving in the cost of making 
cores would undoubtedly result, but there could be no 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



289 



reduction in size and length of the print, and therefore 
no increase in the output of castings. 

This much-to-be-desired result may be reached by a 
combination of the principles illustrated by Figs. 146 
and 147; the resulting box, shown in Fig. 149, being what 




n T\ f^ ^^' n T\ n TTT p 7 ri 

l:::±J^ :^^^ — S— ^ -' '-'—'' '"1-^ I 

Fig. 149. 

is specifically known as a multiple box or shell. How 
such boxes are made I will now endeavor to show. 

It is quite evident that the box shown in Fig. 149 
cannot be machined on its inner surface; we shall there- 
fore be dependent upon the foundry for the production 



290 PATTERNMAKING. 

of accurate castings. As the moulder cannot be expected 
to produce a casting which is any better, or more accurate, 
than the pattern used, he should be furnished with the 
best possible pattern for such work. These patterns 
will be expensive, but the results will warrant the expense. 
On inspection of Fig. 149, it will be found that one box 
full of cores will make thirty-two castings, there being 
sixteen cores, each of which will make two castings. 
As the castings must be similar, the box must make not 
only the sixteen cores all alike, but the two ends of each 
of these double cores must also be exactly alike. The 

box is, then, made up of thirty-two 
units, all alike. 
^ This unit. Fig. 150, is made up 

jjjj very carefully in plaster, from 
^ which the brass foundry is called 
Pj^^ upon to make two castings. If 

the plaster could be depended 
upon to make the whole number of units required, it 
could be made like Fig. 151; but as it is only >i'' thick 
for this job, it could hardly be expected to last for even 
the sixteen castings which would then be needed. 

After receiving the two castings like Fig. 150, they are 
jointed together, secured by solder, and through the open 
end, A , accurately finished in the lathe ; care being taken 
to locate the joint between the two halves, exactly in 
the centre of the lathe. The open end is then carefully 
squared off and the piece removed from the lathe. File 
a notch across the joint as at D, Fig. 150, for reference 
in matching up. The halves are then separated and the 
solder cleaned from surface. 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



291 




Fig. 151. 



A short piece of stock is now turned to fit the straight 
part of box SitA A, Fig. 151. After turning to the correct 
diameter, one half should be cut away. Do this care- 
fully in order that the piece left may fill but not project 
above the surface of half box. 

The two units like Fig. 150 are then assembled on a 
surface plate in the position shown in Fig. 151, the arbor 
being used to keep them in line. After getting them 
into position and clamping 
them to the surface plate, 
which, by the way, had best 
be kept hot, — how hot? 
Hot enough to color the 
brass pieces — solder the two 
together, sweating the solder thoroughly into the joint 
at G, which will be found easy to do at the temperature 
noted above. 

Wipe off all the surplus solder and cool the job before 
removing from the plate. The heating of the plate and 
the work before the final adjustment is to prevent the 
work from crawling under the soldering iron, which some- 
times occurs when a hot copper is applied to work much 
below the temperature of the copper. If you are equipped 
with blast burners, the whole outfit may be brought up 
to a temperature which will melt the solder and make the 
use of a copper unnecessary except for the patching up. 

The completed piece, now like Fig. 151, is then sent 
to the foundry for enough castings to make a box like 
Fig. 149; in this case, sixteen. As the accuracy of the 
finished job depends in a great measure upon these 
castings, they should be made with great care. 



292 PATTERNMAKING. 

One good thing for the moulder to observe is that the 
parting should be on a line even with the bottom of 
plate which forms the surface of completed box, as at 
B, Fig. 150, and not at C. By so doing, the surface C 
and the interior of core-box are in the same half of mould 
and will not be affected by the closing and weighing of 
the flask. Use a flask with well-fitted pins, and lift the 
pattern with the cope if making C side down. If moulded 
the other side up, the cope should be lifted without the 
pattern. The idea is to get the inside and surface C 
without any rapping or other fault in drawing. 

The most common fault with castings, such as are 
required in making core-boxes, is what is known as 
"ramming away the corners," causing the casting to 
appear like Fig. 152, where the rib or fin, which is greatly 

exaggerated at A A, \s> the fault 
produced. This is a serious defect, 
as it destroys the outline of core 
at the joint of box, so necessary in 
matching the halves. It can usu- 

FlG. 152. 11 1 1 1 • • 1 

ally be prevented by giving the 
moulder a little more time for the work. Accurate cast- 
ings would be cheap at a dollar a pound, and there are 
plenty of moulders who can produce them. If the cast- 
ings are well made, their extra cost will be saved in the 
fitting up, and the final quality and quantity of the 
work — the cores — as produced by the finished boxes, 
will be increased. 

The castings, like Fig. 151, are to be fitted up in pairs, 
matching them together by the reference notches D Z), 
keeping the notches in each pair, all on the same side of 




MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



293 



box. This may be done by turning the halves endwise 
and not sidewise. Dowel each pair together with two 
small pins, as at B B. Number them in pairs, then, taking 
one-half of each pair, the halves without pins, fit them 
together as in Fig. 153. These are to be soldered to- 
gether, but before doing this each piece with pins should 
be cut to match the outline of its mate. 

The halves first fitted may then be soldered together, 
making one piece of them all like Fig. 153. The pin 
halves are then assembled on 
the top of those already fast- 
ened together, each indi- 
vidual half or piece being 
brought to place by its 
dowels. Some of the pieces 
will undoubtedly need a 
little further fitting, so that 
all may fit nicely in the 
dowel holes of their mates, 
without any interference. 

Don't try to solder the 
whole lot at once; add one 
piece at a time, trying it on 
and off to test the fit of its 
dowels, because you must 
depend greatly upon them 
for the detection of errors 
in assembly. If the whole lot are soldered at once and 
it is then found that the dowels bind, it will be difficult 
to locate and correct the error. But if the units are 
added one at a time, making sure of each one as it is 



r>- 


0^ — 1 




/]— » 




A ^^J^ 




[( 








) 




V — 


















/~~v,o 










) 






i V 


■^ ^^\ 




(C 


















) 















/- r 




/ 1. ■* 






a 








) 




u -V \. 









(, _^o 


L 




■" 




t vO' 










) 






V 








/> — 1 




— w 




sO 


[i 








) 




'-' ^■•» V 




' 




^" 


rr 




p— J. 














) 











^^ 




a 




—TV 






c_ 








) 


D. 




1 — V 




i ^- 



Fig. 153. ^ 



^ 



294 PATTERNMAKING. 

fastened in place, any error found may be readily located, 
as it is sure to be in the last piece joined, and can be 
corrected by re-locating this last piece. 

Having tliem soldered together in two pieces like Fig. 
153, the corners opposite the straight side A B can be 
filed away, leaving one at C for reference in final matching 
up of core-boxes, and also leaving the outside corners at 
DD intact; then the dowels may be knocked out of 
all but the two outside members. The straight sides, 
A B, are then fitted and soldered together. 

It isn't necessary that this last joint shall be so made 
that the cores in the original halves, Fig. 151, should 
stand exactly in line in the! completed pattern, as the 
final castings from this master, if mated by the reference 
piece C in Fig. 153, and do welled so that any one pair 
of openings match, will necessarily match at all points. 
The method of building up, always in pairs, carefully 
matched, makes this result inevitable. 

Place the joined halves face down on surface plate, 
and fit ribs as at A A — ribs are indicated by broken 
lines — and B B, Fig. 149. These ribs are for strength- 
ening the box, and also provide a good surface for the 
box to rest on when in use. Then the ears for pins, D, 
E, F, and G, are fitted and soldered. These ears are 
placed about ys" below joint surface of box, as shown 
in end view of Fig. 149, making it unnecessary for the 
core-maker to clean off all of the sand which may lodge 
on the ear around the pins; thus saving considerable 
time which may be employed to much better advantage. 

Having the parts all assembled, if the castings from 
this master are to be made by a bench moulder, the 




MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 295 

back of pattern must be finished nicely. Run solder 

fillets, like HH, Figs. 149 and 153, in all the corners 

on back of master, and make the ribs A A and B B, and 

the ears D, E, F, and G, with plenty of draft all around. 

It will be noticed that the lugs for dowels, D, E, F^ 

and G, Fig. 149, are not all of the same shape. They 

are made as shown to help the core-maker in lifting off 

the pin side, which lifting must be done very nicely. 

Fig. 154 shows how the ears match when 

boxes are fitted up. Each half box cast 

from the pattern, as shown in Fig. 149, 

must have two ears like F, Fig. 154, and 

two Hke D. The finished boxes have three t7 ^ 

i^iG. 154. 

dowels, and in the pin half two of these 
are in the ears E and F, Fig. 149. The boxes are 
mated by reference pieces, C C, and it is then plain 
that lug F must mate with G, and lug E with D, as is 
shown in Fig. 154. Lugs E and F project over the sides 
of lugs D and G, but fall short of their ends. 

The box being ready to Hft off, the lugs E and F of 
the pin side, which is now the top half, are grasped 
between the thumb and forefinger of each hand, while 
the tips of the middle fingers are pressed on the project- 
ing ends of D and G in the other, or bottom half; thus 
giving the core-maker complete control over the operation 
of Hfting off. 

In the good old times before planing mills were thought 
of and the farmer who needed a new barn got his lumber 
''direct from manufacturer to consumer," nearly all 
farmers and farm-owners had some timber or woodland. 
If about to put up a new building, the farmer, being a 



296 PATIERNMAKING. 

man of sound judgment, would get an experienced person 
to go into his "woods" and select the trees to be cut 
down for the frame and covering. The same good 
judgment exercised all through the job brought about 
the desired result — a good, serviceable building. 

Moral: After spending good money for the master 
box, don't "let up" until the castings from this box are 
made. 

The multiple box, as so known to-day, is used not only 
to shape the core, but also as a drier; the half boxes, 
containing the completed cores, being placed in the oven 
to hold the cores in shape while drying, or baking. 
This makes it necessary to have a good many of the 
half boxes; the number depending on the shape and 
size of the cores, which size will regulate the time re- 
quired for baking, and how many, or how fast the cores 
are needed. 

It is plain that all cores made in such boxes must be 
rammed up in halves. They could be so made from 
ordinary core-sand mixtures and the halves united with 
paste; but it has been found from experience that good 
sharp sand, mixed with linseed oil in proper proportions, 
makes a mixture which will of itself cement the halves 
together and also produce a core that stands a lot of 
handhng. The objection that oil-sand cores cannot be 
handled green is overcome by the use of the shapes or 
shells for baking. 

If the foundry does its part by furnishing accurate 
castings, the resulting set of boxes — may be spoiled in 
the fitting up? Oh, yes; but that is not likely to happen. 
The firm will, on the contrary, be so well pleased with 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 297 

the results that we, the patternmakers, and you, the 
moulders, will at once get orders to make other sets of 
these labor savers. 

The number to be made up for a set must be left for 
the user to decide upon; and the method of making the 
castings will depend upon the practice of the foundry. 
If it should be thought advisable to fit up the masters 
for moulding machines, some form of roll-over machine 
will be necessary for this job, as one could hardly expect 
to successfully cope out the sand from face side. 

As these castings should be poured face down — the 
face should be as nice as possible, while the back need 
only be passable — two men may be worked to advantage 
in the following scheme: 

A standard or limit for the outside dimensions of these 
boxes may be fijced at seven inches wide by ten inches 
long, exclusive of the ears for dowels. This size is not 
arbitrary and may be varied to suit conditions. But, 
as will be seen by what follows, it is necessary to fix 
some limits to the dimensions, and the size given is as 
large as has been found practicable. The depth, fixed 
by the same rule, was that necessary for a round core 
about 2y^" diameter. As the different boxes made 
might have to be poured, some from the seven-inch and 
others from the ten-inch side, provision was made for 
this in laying out the rig, by allowing room enough for 
a pattern ten inches square, plus the ears. 

The necessary fixtures for this rig are illustrated, 
though no provision is seen for attaching the plates. Fig. 
155 and 156, to the moulding machine. This, of course, 
must be arranged to suit the style of machine to be used. 



298 



PATTERNMAKING. 



The cuts show only what is necessary for holding the 
patterns and locating the flask, which may be a snap fiask. 



/ 



V 



.M 



I ^ 



^% DrilLm 
f Pat. Shop Plate 



Tap for % Screw' 
in Fdf. Plate 



/'• 



J 



F 

-11 «- 



^fci: 



-/- 



section on line c-d 
Fig. 155. 



Two pairs of plates like Figs. 155 and 156 were fitted 
up, one set for the foundry and the other for the pattern 



While Motal 
> Pattern 



Fig. 156. 

shop to use in fitting up new patterns. They were not 
strictly pairs, because the pattern-shop set was to be 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 



299 



used as jigs and the foundry set upon the moulding 
machine. The points of difference are noted in the text 
and in the engravings. 

When made on the machine, the master shown in Fig. 
149 was finished on the face side only, as the back, to 
be made in the core, was a separate pattern, produced 
in this way: The pattern, having reached the point 
where the ears for dowel pins are to be fitted on, is 
secured on a wooden follow, or bottom board, Fig. 157. 
The surface of this board is recessed W deep; the 
recess being large enough to take any pattern to be 
made; that is, 10'' square. All patterns have the 
gating side set to the Hne C D. This line is also one 
side of the recess, and locates the body of the pattern in 
position. 

After the pattern is fixed in place, the balance of the 
recess, as at A and B, Fig. 157, is filled up level with the 




Fig. 157. 



surface of board. The cope for this mould being per- 
fectly flat, the resulting casting is yi" thinner than the 
master. The ears, made of wood, are secured in place 
on the board, being sure so to locate them that the final 



300 



PATTERNMAKING. 



castings will match up as was shown in Fig. 154. The 
fillets on the back are now put in of wax, not solder, as 
in description of Fig. 149, and the pattern and board 
sent to the foundry for a white metal casting. 

The gate on this board, Fig. 157, may be fast, as it is 
desirable to gate all of the white metal backs at the 
extremity of the dowel-pin lugs, as shown. The gate, 
being fixed, also fixes the length of the ears. 

Inspection of the white metal back, having proved 
it O.K., the master is removed from the bottom board 
and prepared for the moulding machine by fixing it in a 
cast-iron box, such as is shown in Fig. 158. A stock of 





1 f . 






+ 


i \ Ji'Screv/ / ; 


> 

•i 


B9 (7) 1 


(T) ©A I 




c^ (g) : 


• 


/ ^i 




-------7---^-'----J- 







D 



J_t,p _ 



Fig. 158. 



these boxes is kept on hand, machined to fit plate 155. 
The screw holes, H'\ are drilled to the jig, pattern-shop 
plate 155. Two holes only are necessary. They should 
be drilled as shown, and not central with side of box. 
This will prevent any error in setting the pattern in 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 301 

plate for foundry. The opening in box 158 is ten inches 
square. 

The master is secured in this box, first by screws 
through the bosses, A, B, and C, on the inner surface 
of box at the bottom. These bosses are raised slightly 
above the surrounding surface, that they may be faced 
by a counterbore, steadied in screw hole. The screw 
hole is then countersunk on the outside of box for a 
machine screw. One-quarter inch is a good size. 

Screws passing through these holes secure the pattern 
in place by entering studs, or posts, soldered to the 
back of master, and fitted to a length which will bring 
the pattern H'^ above open, or top side of box. This 
compensates for the amount cut off by recessing the 
board 157. A line should be scribed around pattern 
even with top of box for the parting and draft filed to this 
line. 

In locating the master in the box, the edge to be gated 
is placed directly against the inside of box, as in Fig. 
159, where the parts are assembled for the foundry's 
use. If it has a tendency to spring away from the box, 
a screw through the side of box, beneath the top flange, 
Fig. 158 at D, and tapped into a lug soldered to pattern, 
will correct this. 

Strips of wood are then clamped to surface of box to 
cover the openings left on the other three sides, not 
forgetting the register marks, B B, Fig. 159, and the 
box, which is then turned bottom side up, is filled with 
Hquid plaster, through the holes, E, F, and G, made for 
this purpose. The plaster sets quickly and secures the 
pattern firmly in place. It is evident that the box, 



302 



PATTERNMAKING. 



Fig. 158, with the master fixed in place by screws and 
plaster, may be stored in safe, and used whenever 
wanted; making but one plate like Fig. 155, necessary 
for any number of masters. 

The position of nowel side being now fixed, the cope 
half, for which the white metal casting is used, is placed 



r' 




Plaster of Paris 

Register Mark B. 



9U8D9UQ 




Fig. 159. 

on the plate. Fig. 156, in a position to match the nowel. 
A line across the two plates, 155 and 156, as at A B, 
with a centre line at right angles to line A B on each 
plate, line E E, will be required. These lines are needed 
only on the set of plates used in the pattern shop, and 
are located from the flask pins. 

The plate, Fig. 156, having been prepared with lines, 
holes for dowels, C C C, are drilled. These holes are 
all to come within a seven-inch square, located with one 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 303 

of its sides upon the line A B, and central with the width 
of plate. 

This location is necessary to insure that the dowels 
may always come within the outHnes of white metal 
pattern. If it is necessary at times to make some 
masters which are much smaller than the standard size 
7'' by 10'', additional holes may be drilled in the plates. 
For obvious reasons it is better to make one set of pin- 
holes do for all patterns, and it will usually be found 
entirely possible to do so. 

It is plain, from the location of master box in the flask, 
it being at one end of the oblong flask, that the cope 
must always be turned about the Hne EF, in. closing 
mould. Thus, if the mating edges of master and back 
are placed on Une A B, they may be centred by the line 
E F, and the perfect matching of cope and nowel made 
certain. 

The white metal back may now be clamped in place 
on plate 156, and the dowel holes drilled. If these holes 
are found to come through some thin part of the pattern, 
a boss of solder may be built around the pin; which 
should be fast in the pattern and not in the plate. This 
second plate, 156, is a plain, flat plate, which may be 
fitted and used upon a machine of the ordinary coping 
variety, there being no difficulty in making this side. 
If it is not convenient to use a second machine, this cope 
side may be made on the bench, using plate 156 as a 
match board. Either plan will keep two men busy 
making moulds. 

The gate is put on the nowel side, and by making it 
of the shape shown in Fig. 159, it may be fastened to 



304 PATTERNMAKING. 

*^ 
the plate; the one gate being used for all patterns. The 

runner is made up for each master by pieces of sheet 
metal, pinned to the flat edge of box 158, as at ^ ^, 
Fig. 159. This edge, ^'^ wide, separates the gate from 
the pattern; the runners, A A, being located where 
they will best run the casting, and completing the gate 
by bridging the ^2^' gap. The boss for the riser is located 
on plate 156 to match the gate in nowel, as at G; and 
may also be fixed. If it is thought advisable to gate 
castings in the way shown by Fig. 157, the gate on nowel 
plate. Fig. 159, and pieces A A, may be left off, and the 
necessary gate substituted for the boss G, on cope plate, 
156; the pattern being turned with the ears towards 
side F. For each master so gated, there will then be 
needed one box like 158, one white metal back for cope 
pattern, and possibly the gate like Fig. 157. All other 
parts of the rig being used for each and every pattern, 
this outfit will be found inexpensive, and also efficient. 
The castings made from these masters, whether by 
machine or bench work, should be rigidly inspected and 
all imperfect ones scrapped. Warped or sprung castings 
should be considered as imperfect. Wliile the crooked 
casting may have a good surface and may be straight- 
ened by peening, or by heating and clamping down on 
a flat plate, the straightening process, whatever it may 
be, will, in nine cases out of ten, result in the stretching 
of the concave surface. The crooked casting having 
been stretched in truing up, is bigger than it should be, 
and therefore won't match those which required no 
straightening. Neither should the crooked castings be 
straightened by grinding or filing away the high places. 



MULTIPLE CORE-BOXES. 305 

This would make the depth inside less, and the cores 
made in the shallow cavities would be flat. Such cores 
would not fill the prints, and the castings produced 
from them would be imperfect. 

The finished set of boxes are interchangeable, there 
being but one furnished with dowels; all of the others 
fitting this one pin side. In use, two half boxes, one of 
them being the pin side, are filled with the oil-sand 
mixture, struck off and the two closed together. Then 
as they lie on the bench, pin side up, they are rapped 
and the pin side lifted off, leaving the completed cores 
in the lower side, which then becomes a drier and is 
placed in the oven with the cores. By continued use, 
the boxes, especially those halves used as driers, become 
coated with the oil sand, and must then be cleaned. A 
common way of doing this is by washing the boxes in hot 
potash water. 

The pins in these boxes should be fitted very nicely 
and stand up square with the top surface. This can only 
be accomplished by using great care in the drilling, for 
which it is customary to use one of the castings as a jig. 

The ears on the castings being >^" below the general 
surface, there will be a quarter-inch gap between jig 
and casting at the point where the hole is to be drilled, 
a bad feature, as any one experienced in drilKng will 
know. A much better way is to provide a plate, on 
which suitable pieces for locating the boxes are fastened. 
This plate can be provided with hardened bushings and 
used for the drier sides. The steel bushings may be 
removable and used again for other jigs. The bushings 
project above the surface about one-eighth of an inch. 



3o6 PATTERNMAKING. 

This jig might be so laid out that it could be used for 
both drier and pin sides. This would add greatly to its 
cost and is unnecessary, as one of the driers may be used 
as a jig for the few pin sides needed. The one selected 
having been drilled in the jig, may have pieces fastened 
on the ears to fill up the quarter-inch gap. 

It is usual to select the very best of the castings for 
the pin side, as this side is used, in turn, with all of the 
driers. The pin side will wear out much faster than the 
driers; it is well, therefore, to have some extra ones 
made up against their need. 



PART FIFTH. 
COST, CARE, AND INVENTORY. 



CHAPTER I. 

COST OF PATTERNS. 

Probably any patternmaker who is familiar with the 
patterns made twenty-five years ago, or even fifteen, and 
also with the same kind of patterns as made to-day, has 
noted the difference in design and also in construction of 
the work. This difference, where the cost of work is con- 
sidered, is in favor of the patterns made now. This, of 
course, is the result of greater experience in the need for 
and use of patterns to accomplish the desired end. See, 
for instance, the variety of belt pulleys which may be made 
from a single ring and spider, with three or fout sizes and 
lengths of hubs. It used to be the custom to make a com- 
plete pattern for each size and width of face. Now we 
make a single iron ring with two or three spiders of different 
weights, and then a lot of hubs of different lengths and 
diameter to match the width of face and size of shaft. 
These hubs and spiders are so made that any hub will fit 
any spider — not only the different spiders to be used with 
this one ring — for, of course, all pulleys made of this ring 
will be of one diameter — but the hubs may be used with 
any sized ring, as all the spiders are finished with the same 
sized hole at the centre, into which the hub fits. Thus you 
see, by having only a few complete patterns, a large variety 
of pulleys may be made, and made very cheaply. 
19 309 



310 



PATTERNMAKING. 



Another important branch of pattern work has, in some 
shops, been reduced to almost nothing. This has been ac- 
compHshed by the use of the gear-moulding machine. The 
patternmaker used to make the wheel complete in all par- 
ticulars, except, perhaps, in some rare instances, where 
different widths of face were made from one pattern. Now 
the patternmaker cuts from one to three teeth; the best 
practice uses but a single space, with a part of a tooth on 
each side; then the machine does the rest, and does it far 
more accurately than the average patternmaker could. 
This, you see, makes another great saving in pattern work. 

Loam work has done away with a good deal of pattern- 
work, substituting a few sweeps that are cheaply and 
quickly made for the costly pattern. All these tend to 
reduce the cost of pattern work, which is money saved in 
most cases. 

There are some manufacturers by whom the cost of all 
pattern work is said to be an expense that brings no return — 
is all outgo and no income; in short, it is a '^ necessary 
evil." This class of men get along with just the cheapest 
(considering only the first cost) patterns they can make. 
Their castings generally have square corners and no fillets, 
but they are saving money on patterns to perhaps spend it 
in the foundry. Now, while it is good policy to make pat- 
terns cost as little as possible, don't run to extremes. You 
can well afford to spend more money on a pattern from 
which a hundred or a thousand castings are to be made 
than one from which you want but a single casting. If by 
letting the patternmaker spend two or three hours round- 
ing corners and putting in fillets you can save five minutes 
in moulding a single one, isn't that money saved by the time 



COST OF PATTERNS. 311 

a hundred are made? And on a thousand, a day's extra 
work would become a good investment. If you try to 
make a cheap pattern do for such a job as this, the chances 
are that it will become a very costly pattern before a thou- 
sand or even a hundred castings are got out. 

If you want a pattern for some repairing or experiment- 
ing about the shop, and only intend, perhaps, to make one 
casting, you would not be willing to spend much time on 
it. I wouldn't either, but I should want the casting to 
look well, and, if it were a part of some machine, I should 
like it to compare in style and finish with the rest of the 
machine, and would be tempted to spend a little more time 
in shaping the pattern and then make it up in waxing and 
varnishing. Perhaps you wouldn't need to varnish at all, 
or at most one coat of varnish ought to do for a single cast- 
ing, and then the new casting wouldn't look quite so much 
hke a makeshift job. There are a great many repair jobs 
done ''for ourselves, you know," which are prominent ex- 
amples of one kind of economy; and, where the machine- 
work is done under the same system, the conomy of the job 
is apt to be lessened by the frequent tinkerings made neces- 
sary to keep the thing running. 

Pride sometimes has a great deal to do with the cost of 
pattern work. Let a new man go into a shop where they 
think they do things a little bit nicer than any other shop, 
and he will think that unless he follows their style, or what 
he thinks is their style (he is just as likely as not to set his 
standard of excellency too high), they will think that he 
isn't much of a patternmaker. And so he will do just the 
nicest job that he can, and then he will perhaps be set down 
as a slow hand, or one that is too fussy about his work. 



3 1 2 PATTERNMAKING. 

In many cases the foreman is to blame for this. It should 
be his business to so instruct a new man that he will under- 
stand just how good a pattern is wanted; but he doesn't 
always do this, although he generally does the best he can 
in his own way, and it is unfortunate for a new man that 
the way is not better. He is apt to put too much emphasis 
on the fact that we *' allow y' shrinkage, and want just ^V 
where the casting is to finish." Now, having impressed 
the man with the superior exactness of ''our work," let him 
select the lumber for the man, condemning anything he 
may have already cut himself, and then watch him to 
see that he doesn't get a chance to use any of his own ideas, 
for, of course, the foreman's ideas are always the best, and 
in half a day the new man will be thinking what a fool he 
was to come to work in this shop, and, if he is at all nervous, 
he won't know whether he is afoot or horseback, and will 
consequently consume more time on the job than neces- 
sary. Then, toward the end, let the foreman tell him that 
he is anxious to get that cast to-day, and the new man will 
actually be ashamed of the pattern and of having been so 
long about it. If you wish to fmd out just what a man can 
do, give him a job with whatever instructions are necessary. 
Tell him that it is a job from which but one or two castings 
are to be made, then let him do the rest, and my word for 
it the job will give better satisfaction, both in time and 
fmish. 

I don't believe in making costly patterns for a job that 
will require only a few castings, and it is a mistake, many 
times, to make expensive patterns for what is called stand- 
ard work, for this reason: Suppose you are manufacturing 
some special line of machinery, of course you will strive to 



COST OF PATTERNS. 313 

keep your machine at the head, and to do this you must 
adopt all improvements, and by experiments try to better 
anything yet made. Thus, you see, your expensive pat- 
terns would soon be ruined by the alterations found neces- 
sary, when if you had made a cheap pattern to start with 
you could have remade it once or twice all through and 
still have kept the cost within reasonable limits. This 
constant alteration of patterns causes them to wear out 
much faster than the moulder would or should use them 
up. 

By a cheap pattern I don't mean one that looks as if it 
had been hewed out with a broadaxe and then rubbed 
down by the moulder, but exercise a little common sense 
and make a pattern that can be moulded easily and nicely; 
don't leave so much for the moulder to do that the casting 
will become expensive by reason of the foundry work. A 
man who knows just what he wants to do and just how he 
is going to do it — two things, by the way, that are absolutely 
necessary to make a really cheap pattern — will cut his stuff 
just right the first time, and he would make every move 
count, provided he was allowed to carry out the original 
ideas. This, you see, would ensure a good, workmanlike 
job from the very start, and this would make a cheap pat- 
tern because there would be no time wasted. 

In a great many cases patterns are good enough without 
fillets or without making-up nail-holes, and for a quick 
job it is usually best to do away with all cants and stave- 
work and put your pattern up soHd. There are some few 
cases where cants or stave-work are necessary or where 
they will save time in the end. 

When your pattern is all together, see if the moulder can 



314 PATTERNMAKING. 

work it without varnishing. In short, make every move 
count, and don't do anything that isn't absolutely neces- 
sary. 

Even on regular work there is often a great deal of time 
wasted, although each one can best be his own judge in 
regard to this, for what one would consider essential an- 
other would condemn as foolish and unnecessary. It 
would, therefore, be impossible to say just how any one 
pattern should be made, and leave no room for improve- 
ment, so that it would be sure to please every man who 
had anything to do with it. Therefore it is likely that we 
shall just go on pleasing, or trying to please, the particular 
firm we may be working for, and when we go to another 
shop we can leave all of the foolish notions behind — and 
perhaps have to adopt some still more foolish. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE MARKING AND RECORD OF PATTERNS. 

There are many good systems of marking patterns in 
operation, and it would be impracticable to devise any one 
system that would be best for all kinds of patterns. I will, 
therefore, confine myself to the description of a single sys- 
tem which has been found to work well for the class of 
goods for which it was inaugurated — goods for steam, 
water, and gas-fittings, with an occasional set of patterns 
for some special machine, to be used in the manufacture 
of the same. 

This scheme was based on the vowel index, as commonly 
used, employing the five vowels. A, E, I, O, U. As soon 
as this point was reached, it was seen that the letters I 
and O would be confounded with figures one and nought, 
and as it was proposed to first fix the letter by scanning the 
name of the article to be named, using the first vowel ajter 
the first letter, and then to prefix a number for the kind 
or class of the article, it was decided to substitute K for I 
and T for O, thus making our five vowels A, E, K, T, U. 
And now for a practical example. 

In practice, perhaps the first article made would be a 
90° elbow. Here it will be seen that the first vowel ajter 
the first letter is O, but for O we have substituted T, thus 
the letter for 90° elbows is T, and as 90° elbows give us the 

315 



3i6 PATTERNMAKING. 

first kind of patterns under the vowel O, we will prefix the 
figure I, thus making the complete signature for this kind 
of pattern iT. Then affix to this signature a serial number 
which shows at once how many patterns of this kind have 
been made, and gives to each pattern an arbitrary mark. 

Very likely the next pattern required will be a 45° elbow. 
This would also come under T; and as this is the second 
kind of pattern coming under T, the signature will be 2T. 

The third pattern to be made is perhaps a tee. This 
will come under E, and, being the first E, the signature 
will be lE. 

And now, having started to manufacture fittings, we 
find that a tapping- machine is necessary; and one having 
been designed, the patterns will require some mark. Fol- 
lowing the rule of using the first vowel, A in this case, pre- 
fixed by I, the signature is lA; and the details, for which 
castings may be required, may be marked in rotation, 
according to their importance, lAi, 1A2, 1A3, and so on 
through the complete list. If it was found necessary to 
make two sizes or kinds of tapping-machines, the second 
kind would be marked 2A1, 2A2, 2 A3, and so on to the 
end of the chapter. If, in designing the second machine, 
it was found that some part of the first one could be used, 
enter on detail drawing the pattern mark, preceded by the 
word "Use," thus: Use 1A26; this would show the pattern- 
maker at once that the pattern for this piece was already 
made. 

And now having the drawings ready for the pattern shop, 
let us follow some one piece through the patternmaker's 
hands to its final resting-place in the safe. 

The foreman of pattern shop will make out (through 



MARKING AND RECORD OF PATTERNS. 317 



C. & B. CO., Pattern Department. ^2<^, 2/^/f^>S, 



THIS SHEET FOR COST DEPARTMENT. 



Patterns for 



terns for ^" S-^yt^cuY (^^»>^^^^«^^ !^ 



>'0^\2l*::Z-^J<^-.--»— t—t^ 



Order of U.J./t^. 



D.O. 



P. 0.>^<^ 



Mark all Parts ^/i^3 



PATTERNS. 



CORE BOXES. 



MATERIAL. 



Pine Mahog Iron 



Brass 



Pine Mahog Iron Plaster Pine Mahog Iron Brass 



/ 



'A 



¥A. 



SIGNATURES 



DATE 



TIME IN HOURS 



Total 



^.T^.S^^ 



t/^'^hoS 



^ /O (p 



;?^ 



.5;e 






1 



WEIGHT OF CASTING 



DATE. 



METAL. 



Pounds. 



Ounces, 



^Z^.^7/fOi5 



t>^-'2:.c>->'z^ 



Ub 



Weighed by ^. A^, (^>-*-»^<:V^ 



See "INSTRUCTIONS TO PATTERN MAKERS," on other side. 



Form A front 



3i8 



PATTERNMAKING. 



INSTRUCTIONS TO PATTERNMAKERS. 

Note carefully the material to be used in construc- 
tion of patterns and core-boxes; and the number of 
pieces required. 

Under heading, '^Weight of Casting, ^^ note metal 
of which casting is to be made. 

Wooden patterns and core-boxes for castings of brass 
should be finished with light-colored varnish, all other 
wooden patterns with black varnish, iron patterns to 
be finished with bayberry tallow, iron core-boxes with 
paraffine wax. 

Wooden patterns should be finished all over with 
the same color unless otherwise ordered. 

Tally each day's time separately. Date when 
finished and sig7i your name. 

Charge amount of material in proper space under 
heading ^' Material.^' 

This ticket should be promptly returned to foreman, 
that there may be no delay in making up costs. 

LUMBER TALLY 


PINE 


Length 


2' 




2' 




1' 






























Width 


e" 




e" 




g" 






























Thkns. 


2 ' 




1" 




2" 






























Feet 







1 




1 






























MAHOGANY 


Ltngth 










. 






























Width 








































Thkns. 








































Feet 











































Form A reverse 



MARKING AND RECORD OF PATTERNS. 319 

his clerk) a cost-sheet for each item or pattern, on form 
"A." This is turned over to the patternmaker, with the 
drawing, and shows him what is to be made, how many 
patterns and core- boxes are required, and the material of 
which they are to be made. There is room for one or 
more men to tally each day's time and lumber, and also a 
place to sign his or their name or names and enter date of 
completion, before turning in his sheet. The instructions 
on back of Form "A" reverse, will show him how to finish 
his job and how to charge the material. 
The pattern, having been made, is then sent to the safe, 



LOCATE THE FOLLOWING PATTERNS AND COREBOXES, 
AND RETURN MEMORANDA TO THE FOREMAN OF PAT- 
TERN SHOP. 


DESCRIPTION 


Pat. 


C. B. 


Sign. 


Safe. 


Section. 


Shelf 


Z " Syt^^ny^ Td^- yi^h<xj>l<. . 


/\A/ 




/A 
Z3 


A 


s(, 


E 


^-(uLMr€/^ -J-e^'tXA^ 




^W 




1 1 


> 1 


F 






























Form B 












L 



the cost- sheet to the man who will weigh the casting and 
enter the weight on the cost- sheet, returning same to the 
pattern shop foreman, who usually has charge of the 
pattern storage; the drawing is returned to the drawing- 
room to be traced and printed, the Bp being sent to the 
machine-shop, the foreman of which will order the neces- 



320 PATTERNMAKING. 

sary castings. With the pattern is sent a location card, 
Form ''B," which is filled out by the safe-keeper to show 
the location of patterns. 

And now for the record, which was typewritten on cards 
and contained, in addition to the record proper, an index 
which recorded the signatures and tallied the serial number 
affixed to the signature. 



lA 2 INCH 3 WAY TAPPING MACHINE. 



Form C 



Referring first to this index, drawer, or file "A," tabbed 
and numbered card, "i" (see Form "C"), one of which 
is made out for each signature, and which are cut ''twelfths " 
in the card-maker's language, the ten tabs from the right- 
hand side only are used, thus leaving a space at the left, 
which was originally intended to be occupied by a blue 
guide card (cut sixths), bearing the vowel. 

The third tab from left hand, which is the first one used, 
was marked i, ii, 21, and so on; the other nine tabs, 
counting toward the right, being marked according to their 



MARKING AND RECORD OF PATTERNS. 321 

position, 2, 3, 4, and up to o. The cards were filed in rota- 
tion, as used. This tab number shows the figure prefixed 
to the vowel in the signature, and as they are not filed until 
used, a glance at any file shows at once what the prefix 
should be for next kind of pattern coming under that 
vowel. 

These tabbed cards were typewritten with the name or 
class of patterns, bearing the signature indicated by the 
file vowel and the tab number, and immediately behind 



1 A TALLY 


3 












11 












4 












7 












21 












23 




























/\ 










V / 






Form D 




\ / 







the tabbed card was filed a tally card. Form "D," bearing 
the signature as per tabbed card C, and on which was 
recorded, or "tallied," the serial affix to signature as fast 
as used, thus showing at once the affix required for next 
pattern. 

The record cards, printed as per Form ''E," were made 
in three colors: salmon for gray iron castings, gray for 
malleable-iron, and white for brass or bronze, thus making 
it unnecessary to print this information on each card, and 



322 



PATTERNMAKING. 



also enabling the user to pick out by the colors all patterns 
for any given material. 

The record card shows, first, the name of the piece and 
number of drawing, then, under heading ''Pat and Box," 
the number of patterns and the material of which they are 
made, " iW" signifying one pattern made of wood. Then 
the signature and affixed serial number, "1A23." This 



2" 3 WAY TAP, MACH. 
SLEEVE GEAR 
D-A42 

Remarks 

Property of | 
Form E 


Pat. & Box 
IW— 1A23 


Location 
A56B 


Hw 


A56F 




Made 8—24" 


-1905 


CosT $7.52 


Wfirht 4R — n 











mark will always identify this individual pattern and its 
core-box, no other pattern having the same affix after the 
same signature. Thus, in speaking of pattern "1A23," 
you refer to this particular pattern and no other. 

In the space under "1W-1A23" is found a description 
of the core- box, " JW" meaning that there is only a half- 
box, which was all that it was thought necessary to furnish 
for this job, and that it wa^made of wood. To the right 
of description of pattern and core-box is written their 
location, "A56E," meaning that the pattern has been 



MARKING AND RECORD OF PATTERNS. 323 



TAPPING MACHINES 



Form F 



n 



2 INCH 3 WAY 



Form G 



324 PATTERNMAKING. 

placed or "located" in safe A, section 56, and on shelf E. 
The core-box is located, as shown, in the same safe and 
section, but on shelf F. This information was obtained 
from location card B. 

The next line on record card E shows when the pattern 
was completed, and is simply a date. Then comes the 
cost, which is, in fact, only a portion of the entire cost, 
and includes only the labor and material shown on cost- 
sheet A, it being the practice of C. & B. Co. to obtain 
quotations from the pattern shop which included only the 
labor and materials, the cost department making all neces- 
sary additions for fixed expenses. 

There is still another space for the weight of one or 
more castings from this pattern, the total weight being 
entered on upper line, and the number of pieces weighed 
on the lower line. 

There are two other headings on record card, one for 
"Remarks," which requires no explanation, and the other 
"Property of," opposite which was entered the name of the 
firm which ordered and paid for the pattern. 

In filing these record cards, several forms of guide cards, 
cut "thirds," were used. A blue, left-hand cut. Form 
"F," for the kind of goods, then a buff, left-hand cut, 
Form "G," for classes. 

These were supplemented by "centre cut" buff cards 
for parts and "right-hand cut" buff cards for kinds of 
parts. In some cases these guide cards were still further 
subdivided by tabbed cards, having pipe sizes printed on 
the tab. 

An almost infinite variety of guide cards can be had, so 
that any form of subdivision may be used. 



CHAPTER III. 

PATTERN ACCOUNTS. 

I AM well aware that it is impossible to go into a complete 
detailed account of the proper method of placing the cost 
of patterns for all kinds of manufacturing in any single 
article or discussion. For this time I have in mind only 
that portion of the accounting which is supposed to show 
the firm the value of their patterns at the inventory 
taking. 

This is still a very much complicated subject, as any 
one set of rules for depreciating their (the patterns') value 
cannot be made to apply to all kinds of patterns. Still a 
plan by which patterns may be accounted for from their 
actual cost, not by going to the expense of accounting each 
individual pattern separately — although this is done with 
machine-tools by many firms — but by grouping them in 
classes or kinds, or by time production, making a single 
item of all produced during one inventory period, or by a 
combination of the two, class and time, each item of the 
inventory might show the cost of one class of patterns pro- 
duced between two inventories. 

Thus we might go on dissecting our pattern record until 
it became so finely detailed as to show at any time the actual 
value of each and every pattern by depreciating its last 
inventory value by some prescribed or predetermined set of 
rules. 

325 



326 PATTERNMAKING. 

For the reason that all will not agree on the value of old 
patterns, and because the inventory must necessarily show 
the worth of all patterns, whether they are used in the 
actual production of the firm's output or are only necessary, 
and some of them seldom used accessories; for example, 
parts of fixtures and tools which are vitally necessary in 
the manufacture of the firm's product, and also such pat- 
terns as are made in repairing breakages, and in replacing 
worn parts of machinery; these must all have some value. 

Whether it is considered best to put all of the patterns 
into one account, or, by keeping repairs and fixtures in a 
class by themselves, thus making two or more pattern- 
accounts, it will be necessary to fix upon some scheme for 
depreciation which shall free the account of patterns that 
have become useless or worn out. 

First comes the question, ''What adds to the total value 
of patterns?" New patterns will, of course; then the re- 
pairing of patterns, when done intelligently, certainly en- 
hances their value, and in my opinion both of these items 
should be entered on the cost side of the account, especially 
when the cost is to be used as a basis for fixing inventory 
value, which is what I am proposing to do. We should 
now fix upon some period of time which shall represent 
the useful life of each pattern or class of patterns, or, what 
I should consider the more sensible and equally satisfactory 
way, upon a period which can be fairly considered as an 
average life for all patterns on hand. 

This would greatly lessen the task of inventorying, and 
by readjusting the length of this period from time to time, 
as was found necessary, we could arrive at a much more 
satisfactory result, because we should always have a fixed 



PATTERN ACCOUNTS. 327 

value to start from, the length of the period constituting 
the useful life of the patterns having been fixed by some 
competent person. 

I am aware that it is a very common practice to depreciate 
the entire account by a fixed percentage at each inventory, 
but this method often gives very unsatisfactory results. 
Let me illustrate. Patterns do not deteriorate as fast dur- 
ing the first part of their existence as later on, when they 
begin to need repairs, and toward the last of their useful- 
ness they wear out pretty fast. For these reasons it does 
not seem right to depreciate the new patterns at the same 
rate as the old ones. Again, a flat reduction by a fixed 
percentage never entirely wipes out a pattern. 

But as all of these points have been gone over many 
times, I am telling you nothing new, and will pass on to an 
explanation of the scheme which I consider an improve- 
ment, and I shall be pleased if it is of help to any one who 
has the patience to follow me through this somewhat un- 
interesting article. 

The life of the pattern may be reckoned at any desired 
length of time, but, whatever period may be determined 
upon, the percentage of depreciation must be so arranged 
that at the end of its life you will have entirely wiped out 
its cost. A simple illustration will explain my proposi- 
tion. 

Suppose that a firm is producing $100 worth of patterns 
a year, and has been doing so for at least ten years in suc- 
cession. Suppose, also, that ten years has been fixed upon 
as an average Ufe of all patterns, the pattern inventory may 
now be taken from the account in the manner shown by 
Table III. 



328 



PATTERNMAKING. 



TABLE III. 

INVENTORY SHEET BASED ON A TEN-YEAR LIFE. 



rt'O 


(A 



u 


</) 2 

(H 1-" 


^1 


rocn 


k.4 . 

rttd 


■S 






00 =§ 




11 


1900 
190 T 
1902 
1903 
1904 
1905 
1906 
1907 
1908 
1909 
I9IO 


$100.00 
$100.00 






















$90.00 
$90.00 




















$72.00 
$72.00 


















$50.40 

(( 
(( 

$50.40 
















$30.24 
$30.24 














$1^^.12 

$15.12 












$6.05 
$6.05 










$1.72 
$1.72 








$0.34 
$0.34 






$0.03 
$0.03 


$0.00 



0) cfl 

Q 



$100, 
190, 
262, 
312 
342 
357 
363 
365 
365 
365 
36s 



00 
00 
00 
.40 

t^ 

,01 

,87 
90 
90 



Here is shown each year's production, which is used as 
a single item in making up the inventory, also the deprecia- 
tion of each item by an increasing percentage, beginning 
with 10 per cent, and ending with 100 per cent., thus mak- 
ing no mention of a pattern which is ten or more years of 
age. 

This table is only given as an illustration, and may, of 
course, have the actual production entered, and also have 
the depreciation rates varied to suit needs of users. The 
only fixed point being that each item, whether it represents 
a single pattern, a class of patterns, or the entire produc- 
tion, is accounted for by itself, and is entirely wiped out at 
the end of the predetermined period, the last depreciation 
being final, or 100 per cent. 

The table as constructed shows only one complete in- 
ventory, that for the year 19 10, but for the supposed con- 
ditions you will note that this inventory equals 265.9 per 
cent, of yearly production plus the last year's production, 



PATTERN ACCOUNTS. 329 

and as long as production remains the same, and other 
conditions are not changed, the inventory value will remain 
fixed, as it certainly should. 

This same table will also serve to illustrate the case of a 
firm just beginning manufacturing. The supposition that 
they will spend exactly $100 each year for patterns is, of 
course, highly improbable, but it will serve just as well to 
illustrate my proposition; and if the annual expenditure 
continues to be the same after the ten years accounted for 
in the table, the inventory will also continue fixed, which 
seems to me to be an extremely rational and likely re- 
sult. 

Again, if this is acknowledged to be a probable result 
in the suppositious case just cited, would it not be equally 
correct in an actual case ? The only practical difficulty 
is the fixing of the actual annual cost of patterns, for after 
the cost has once been fixed the taking of an accurate inven- 
tory is very simple. Any one who keeps a pattern account 
may inaugurate this system by going back in the account 
for ten years and substituting the actual cost for each year 
in place of the supposed annual cost of $100 in the table 
shown. Or if the life period of ten years is thought to be 
too short or too long, let him substitute any other period 
which may be deemed more in accord with prevailing 
conditions, and construct a table containing whatever num- 
ber of years may be decided upon as the useful life of the 
patterns to be accounted for. There must necessarily be 
some limit to this period, as all will agree that a pattern 
which has ceased to be useful has also ceased to be of any 
value as a pattern, and can only be reckoned as so much 
waste material. 



330 



PATTERNMAKING. 



TABLE IV. 

INVENTORY FOR FIFTEEN-YEAR 
LIFE. 

Cost $100.00 

I St yr. 6% off 
2d " 7% " 

3d 
4th 



5th 

6th 

7th 

8th 

gth 

loth 

nth 

i2th 

13th 

14th 



12% 
16% 
21% 
26% 
32% 
40% 
50% 
60% 

70% 



90% 



15th "100% 



94.00 
87.42 

78-55 
69.12 

58.06 

47.87 

34-04 

23-15 
13.89 

6-95 
2.78 

•83 
•17 
.02 



Inventory value $616.85 



TABLE V. 

INVENTORY FOR TWENTY 
LIFE. 
Cost $ 

ist vr. 5% off 

2d ' 

3d 
4th 



5th 

6th 

7th 

8th 

9th 

loth 

nth 

1 2th 

13th 

14th 

15th 

1 6th 

17th 

1 8th 

19th 

20th 



y/o 
10% 
10% 
15% 
15% 
20% 

20% 

25% 
30% 
35% 
40% 

45% 
50% 

55% 
60% 

70% 





90% 
100% 



-YEAR 

100.00 
95.00 
90.25 
81.22 
73.10 
62.15 
52.81 
42.25 

33-8o 

25-35 

17.44 

11.63 

6.98 

3-84 

1.92 

.86 

.-34 
.10 

.02 

.002 

.000 



Inventory value .... $699.34 

For the sake of comparison I give tv^o examples in Tables 
IV. and v., one illustrating the proposition on a basis of 
fifteen years, and the other based on a twenty-year life. 
Personally I am of the opinion that a ten-year life is rather 
too long, but as it offers a simple and easily reckoned ac- 
count, I have used it as an example. 

The yearly depreciation may be at any rate which is 
thought to best fit the conditions, but the final year's rate 
must be 100 per cent. It will also be seen that the longer 
the life, the larger the inventory becomes ; for ten years the 
value (at the rates given) is 365.9 per cent., in the fifteen- 
year example it is 616.85 per cent., and for the twenty-year 
life it amounts to 699.34 per cent. 



PATTERN ACCOUNTS. 331 

The fifteen- year case brings the inventory much nearer 
to the twenty-year than to the ten-year. This apparent 
irregularity is caused by the varying rates of depreciation, 
the ten- year table giving a regularly increasing rate through 
the whole life of the pattern, while the twenty- year depre- 
ciation is much slower, only reaching, at the end of the 
seventh year, the rate used for the second year of the ten- 
year case, but reducing the last half of the pattern value 
at the same rate as the ten-year. 

Still another rate of depreciation is shown in the fifteen- 
year example. While these illustrations serve to show the 
elasticity of the method, they all arrive at the same desira^ 
ble end — the pattern disappears when it is worn out. 



INDEX 



A BETTER way to rough out core- Automatic feed on lathe, 83 



boxes, 76 
Accounts for patterns, 325 
Accurate spacing of dovetails, 77 
Acid, oxalic, 36 
Adjusting saw guides, 57 

saw wheels, 57 

the slide, 76 
Affix for index, 325 
Alcohol, grain, 36 

wood, 36, 37 
Alterations, 313 
Aluminum patterns, 233 
Angle and globe valve bodies, 
difference in, 209 

and globe valve, customary 
form, 210 

body core-box, 224 

body pattern, 209 

branches for pattern, 212 
Another kind of pattern for 

screw, 197 
Arms for gears, locking together, 

159 
crooked, 160 
straight, 160 
for pulleys, 114, 121 
for traction wheels, 206 
fitting in, 207 
Assembling parts, 51 
A stripping-plate job, 250 
Atmospheric changes, 31 



Average life of patterns, 326 
A vibrator-plate pattern, 256 
Awkwardness, 48 

Balance coreprint, 285 
Ball of globe valve pattern; 
templet for, 212 

to turn, 89 
Band-saw, 56 

adjusting guides, 57 

adjusting wheels, 57 

jointing the teeth, 57, 58 
Bayberry tallow, 41 
Beef tallow, 41 
Beeswax, 19, 40, 41 
Belts, 53, 54, 62 , 

endless, 55 

lathe, 85 
Belt pulleys, patterns for, 113 
Bench, drawers, 44 

height of, 43 

hook, 45 

length of, 43 

planes, 48 

top surface, 44 

width of, 43 

work, 57 
Better way of roughing out core- 
boxes, 69 
Bevel gear teeth, instrument for, 
175 



333 



334 



INDEX. 



Bevel gear teeth, of pitch at cir- 
cumference of propeller 
wheel, 178 
of pitch, changing for pro- 
peller wheel, 180 
wheels, 163 
Birch, 34 
Black varnish, 37 
Blower, 61 
Blue varnish, 37 
Board, shooting, 51 
Body of steam cylinder, 141 
Boring hole for spindle, pro- 
peller wheel patterns, 180 
Box for cutting prints for chain 
drum, 191 
for lightening cores, 268, 269 
for holding master pattern 
for multiple core-box, 300 
Branches for globe and angle 
valve patterns, 214 
for globe valve core-box, 220 
for globe valve pattern, put- 
ting on, 214 
Brazing band-saws, 58 

solder, 59 
Broken band-saw, 58 
Building up core-box for globe 

valve, 218 
Butterfly centres, 86, 87, 88 

Cable pulley, arms, 122 
core-box for, 125 
core - box for spiral 
grooved, 125, 126, 
127 
patterns, 120 
Canada dovetails, 73 
Cant work, 196, 198, 218 
light, 109 



Cant work, thickness of courses, 

no 
Cants, 106, 107 

templet for, 106 
Card index for patterns, 217 
Care in oiling, 82 

of- patterns, 143 
Castings for patterns, 237, 268, 
290, 292, 304 
how weight is entered on 

record card, 324 
material indicated by color 
of card, 321 
Cast gates, 238 
Centring split patterns, 91, 

92 
Centre of courses for propeller 
wheel, 179 
of globe valve core-box to 
find dimensions of, 216, 
217 
pin for globe core-box, 266, 
280 
Centres, butterfly lathe, 86, 87, 
88 
female, 90 
improvement in, 89 
tail, 84, 88 
Chain drum, 189 

box for cutting prints, 
191 
Chain, to lay out, 198 

to measure pitch, 133 
Chain wheel, a cheap kind, 135 
core-box for, 131 
core-box, templet for, 

134 
how to space, 133 
patterns, 130 
single tooth, 137 



INDEX. 



335 



Chain wheel, triple tooth, 135 
Changes in atmosphere, 31 
Changing bevel of pitch for pro- 
peller wheel, 187 
Cheap chain wheel, 135 

patterns, 313 
Cherry, 18, 33 
Circular saw, 52, 53, 56, 62 
Classifying patterns, 326 
Clearance for gear teeth, 167 
Close-grained timber, 33 
Color of card indicates material 

of casting, 321 
Common fault in castings for 
core-boxes, 292 
practice with metal pat- 
terns, 233 
Conveyor pattern, 193 

core-box, 194, 195, 196 
Cope, how different from nowel, 

249 
Core, common form of multiple, 
285, 286 
double, for oil cup, 285 
for exhaust, 146 

globe valve, 262 
oil cup, 285 
steam chest, 144 
prints, 21, 22 
space between for multiple 

box, 286 
straight round, 286 
Core-box for angle valve, 224 
chain wheel, 131 
conveyor pattern, 194, 

195, 196 
globe and angle valve 

bodies, 215 
globe valve, branches 

for, 220 



Core-box, globe valve, corners of 

centre, 219, 220 
globe valve, customary 

form, 216, 267, 271 
globe valve, fourth side, 

220 
globe valve, how to se- 
cure wings, 224 
globe valve, how to 

build up, 218 
globe valve, locating 

joints, 217, 218 
globe valve, squaring 

up centre, 219 
globe valve, templet 

for, 218 
globe valve, to find 

dimensions of centre, 

216, 217 
globe valve, wings and 

half-moon, 221 
globe valve, yoke end, 

220 
grooves in chain drum, 

192 
grooves in chain drum, 

stopping off, 192 
nuts, 201 
pulley hubs, 119 
screw pattern, 199 
worm pattern, 203 
Core-box, locating in safe, 322, 

324 
multiple, 285, 286, 287, 289 
of plaster of paris, 268, 269 
of staves, 105 
roughing out, 67, 68 
templets for chain wheel, 134 
Cores for cable wheels, length 
of segment, 132 



.36 



INDEX. 



Cores for cable wheels, setting 

of, 129 
Core-print, balance, 285 
for chain drum, 191 
for nut, diameter of, 200 
for steam chest, 142 
Cost of patterns, 309 

improvement in, 309 
Costly patterns, 312 
Cost of patterns, for pattern 
shop, 324 
sheet, details of, 317, 318 
sheet, disposition of, 319 
Counter-boring plates, 248 
Courses, of cants, 106, 107 

of cant work, thickness of, 

no 
short, for propeller wheel, 

183 
thickness of, for propeller 
wheel, 178 
Cover for steam chest, 141 
Criticism, 23 
Crooked arms, 160 

parting, 256 
Cross-cut saw, 65 
Cross-grained timber, 22 
Crosshead, jig-saw, 60 
Crosshead pattern, 153 

core-box for, 157 
Cuba wood, 18 
Curves, sawing of, 56 
Customary form of globe and an- 
gle valve bodies, 210 
of globe valve core, 262 
Cutting spirals in engine lathe, 

83 
the stuff for propeller wheel, 

178 
tools, 48 



Cutting wedges to a point, 70 
Cylinder-head pattern, 152 

Depreciating value of patterns, 

327 
Depreciation, yearly, 330 
Details of cost sheet, 317, 318 

of record card, 322, 324 
Diameter of core-print for nut, 

200 
Difference between cope and 
nowel, 249 
in moulding, 168 
Difficulty of sawing dovetails, 75 
Dimensions of centre for globe 
valve core-box, 216 
of master patterns, 240, 241 
Disposition of cost sheet, 319 
Dovetails, accurate spacing of, 

77 
difficulty of sawing, 75 
Draft for gear teeth, 165 
Drawers in bench, 44 
Drawings, for a propeller wheel, 
176 
for a screw pattern, 202 
mechanical, 27, 28 
translating, 52 
Draw-knife, 52 
Drilling stripping-plate, 246, 247, 

248 
Drum for chain, 189 

to lay out, 190 
Durability of patterns, 17 

Ears on multiple core-box, loca- 
tion of, 294 
on multiple core-box, shape 
of, 295 

Economy of a kind, 311 



INDEX. 



337 



Endless belts, 55 
Engine lathe, 83 
Engineer, pyrotechnic, 26 
Errors, correction of, 26 
Example of patternmaker's skill, 
253, 288 

of moulder's skill, 288 

of turning, 86 
Exhaust core, 146 

Face-plate, wrong use of, 90 

to prevent sticking, 92 
Farm engine traction wheel, 205 
traction wheel, gluing 

up hub, 205 
traction wheel, arms, 

206 
traction wheel, parting 
of rim, 205 
Faults of lathes, 81, 82 
Favorable form of arms for 

parting, 159 
Feathers, 108 

Feed on lathe, automatic, 83 
Female centre, 90 
Fence, setting of, 66 
Fifteen-year table, 330 
File card, 57 
Fillets, 22, 96 

cut by the moulder, 98 

gear teeth, 166 

hard wood, 155 

of leather, 96 

of putty, 97 

of wax, 97 

of wood, 96 

sawing, 73 

worked out of the solid, 96, 

97 
Filing saw, 57, 63, 65 



Finding pitch of old propeller 

wheels, 188 
Fine example of patternmaker's 
skill, 255 
measurements, 25 
Finishing gates, 238, 239 
iron boxes, 268, 281 
First course of propeller wheel, 

181 
Fitting in arms of traction wheel, 
207 
together multiple core-box 
units, 291, 293, 294 
Fixing dimensions of master 

patterns, 297 
Flanges for globe valve patterns, 

213 

Flasks, making snap, 78 

Flat patterns, to prevent warp- 
ing, 148 

Follow board, 115, 117 

Foreman's instructions, 312, 318 

Foundation for machinery, 61 

Four-groove sheave for cable, 
124 

Fourth side of globe valve core- 
box, 220 

Fresh varnish, 36 

Gauge for gear teeth, 168 
Gates for metal patterns, 237, 
238 

how to finish, 238, 239 
Gating, 16 

multiple boxes, 303, 304 

white metal back, 300 
Gear, how to lay out, 158, 173 

moulding machine, 310 

patterns, 158 

patterns, hub for, 169 



338 



INDEX. 



Gear patterns, squaring across 
face, 164 
spiral or "V," 169 
teeth, 59, 161 

clearance of, 167 
test gauge, 168 
to put on, 161 
uneven spacing, 166 
tooth, fillet at root, 166 
wedges, 72 
Globe and angle valve, custom- 
ary form, 210 
and angle valve, difference 
in, 209 
Globe valve, branches for, 212 

templet for ball, 212 
Globe valve core, customary 
form, 262 
core making, 266, 267 
Globe valve core-box: 

branches for, 218 
centre pin, 280, 281 
dowel pins, 263, 279, 

282 
finishing iron boxes, 

281, 282 
for making complete 

core, 262 
half-moon and wings, 

221 
how to secure wings, 

221 
locating joints, 217, 218 
most common form, 

267, 271 
squaring up centre, 219 
seat, 225 
templet for, 218 
thickness of iron box, 
279 



Globe valve, thickness of lugs 

for dowels, 279 
to find dimensions of 

centre, 216 
wedge for making first 

part, 276 
Globe valve core-stick: 

for lightening core, 268, 

269 
for regular cores, 271 
making, 271, 272, 273, 

274 
seat, 272 
yoke or hub end, 272, 

273 
Globe valve patterns: 
classes of, 208 
core-box for, 215 
first requisite, 209 
flanges for, 213 
putting on branches, 2 14 
to build up, 210, 211 
Glue, 18, 19 
joints, 39 
thickness of, 40 
Gluing up stuff for hub of trac- 
tion wheel, 205 
Good patternmakers, qualifica- 
tions of, 28 
surface, 37 
tools, 49 
Grading pulleys, 118 
Grain alcohol, 36 
Grinding plane iron on concave 

stone, 169 
Grindstone, 50 
Grooves in chain-drum, core-box 

for, 191 
Guide, band-saw, 57 
cards, 323, 324 



INDEX. 



339 



Hand-saws, 51 
Hand-turning tools, 83 
Half-moon in globe valve core- 
box, 221 
Heads for stave work, 99, 100, 

loi, 102 
Height of bench, 43 
Herringbone gears, 169 

templet for teeth, 171 
Hexagon patterns, how to place, 

248 
High-speed machinery, 53, 82 
Hoarding habit, 44 
Hole for spindle in propeller 

wheel, 180 
Hollowing staves, 69 
How to find out what a man can 
do, 312 
to finish gates, 238, 239 
to finish stools, 253, 254 
to make cheap patterns, 

313 
to space patterns, 246 
to space wood plate, 260 
weight of casting is entered 

on record card, 324 
Hubs for gear patterns, 169 
for pulleys, 119 
for traction wheels, to glue 

up, 205 

Improvement in lathe centres, 
89 
in cost of patterns, 309 
Increase pitch for propeller 

wheel, 187 
Index card, 315 
prefix, 315 
record, 320, 321 
Indexing by vowels, 315 



Inspecting castings for multiple 

boxes, 304, 305 
Instrument to test bevel gear 

teeth, 175 
Instructions by foreman, 312 
Interchanging ideas, 140 
Inventory of patterns, 324 
value of patterns, 326 

Jacket core for steam cylinder, 

147 
Jig for drilling pin-holes in 
multiple boxes, 305 
for drilling stripping-plate, 

245 
Jig-saws, 59 

tension-spring, 60 
Job on stripping-plate, 242, 250, 

251 
Joints for gluing, 39 

Keeping pattern record, 317 

Kerf of saw, 64 

Kind of pattern for screw, 197 

Lacing, 53, 54, 55 
Lathe, 53, 80 

automatic feed, 83 

belts, 85 

centre for wood, 90 

centres, 86, 87, 88 

counter-shaft, 85 

engine, 83 

faults of, 81, 82 

saddle, 84 

special tools for, 93 
Laying out chain drum, 190 
Laying out chain drum, 190 

core-box for globe valve 
pattern, 215 



340 



INDEX. 



Laying out gear teeth, 158, 173 
partition and seat for 
globe valve core-box, 
225 
pulley spiders, 116 
work, 51 

work, tools for, 47 
Leather fillets, 96 
Length of bench, 43 

of segment cores, 132 
Life of patterns, 326 
Lifting off pin-side of multiple 

box, 295 
Light cant work, 109 
Lightening core, box for, 268, 269 
Lightening core-stick, 268, 269 
Lines on first course of propeller 

wheel, 181 
Loam work, 310 

Location of ears on multiple 
boxes, 294 
of ears on iron boxes, 286, 
294 
Location card, pattern and core- 
box in safe, 322, 324 
Locating half-moon, core-box for 
globe valve, 221, 222 
joints in core-box for globe 
valve, 217, 218 
Locking arms together, 159 
Loose pieces,. 18 

part wedges, 72 

Machine moulding, 17 

tools, 19 
Mahogany, 18, 33 
Making core for globe valve, 266, 
267 
multiple core-boxes from 
solid stock, 268, 287 



Making patterns of metal, 227, 
228, 268 
snap-flasks, 78 
templet for half-moon, 226, 
227 
Maple, 34 
Marking patterns, 315 

tabbed cards, 320, 321 
Master patterns, 236, 239, 240, 

291 
Match board for moulding white 
metal back, 299 
plates for multiple boxes, 
298 
Material, 17, 39 

for metal patterns, 233 
of casting indicated by color 
of card, 321 
Mating broken gears, 172 
Measuring pitch of chain, 133 
Measurements, fine, 25 
Mechanical drawing, 27, 28 
Metal patterns, 19 

common practice with 

233 
from solid stock, 236, 

237 
gates for, 234 
how to gate, 237, 238 
material for, 233 
Metal patternmaker, 19 
Mexican wood, 18, 33 
Mixing colored varnish, 37 

plaster for core-boxes, 270 
Modern tools, 47 
Modification of pitch of pro- 
peller wheels, 184 
Moulders, 20 

a point to observe, 292 
skill, example of, 288 



INDEX. 



341 



Moulding machine, 17 

patterns, 234, 239 
Mounting patterns on wood 

plate, 260 
Multiple core-box, box for hold- 
ing master, 300 
fitting units together, 
290, 291, 292, 293, 
294 
gating for machine, 304 
gating white metal 

back, 299, 300 
how cope and nowel are 
matched, 300, 301, 
302 
how gated for machine, 

304 
how master is finished 
fcr bench moulder, 

294, 295 

how master is finished 
for machine, 297 

inspection of castings 
for, 304, 305 

jig for drilling pin- 
holes, 305 

lifting off pin side, 295, 

305 
locating master in box 
for machine mould- 
ing, 301 
location of ears, 294 ' j 
making last joint, 294 
match plates, 297 
placing core-sticks for 

master, 288 
securing master in box 
for machine mould- 
ing, 301 
shape of ears, 295 



Multiple core -box soldering 

units, 293 
standard for size, 297 
to make from solid 

stock, 287 
unit, 290 
white metal back, 299, 

300 

Need of weight in patterns, 260 
Nowel, how different from cope, 

249 
Nut, pattern, 235, 257 
for screw, 201 
Nuts and screws, pitch of 

thread, 201 

Oil, 61 

paint, 38 

stone, 48 
Oiling, care in, 82 
Oil sand mixture, 296 
Old-fashioned tools, 47 

lathes, 80, 81, 82 

patterns, value of, 326 

timber, 18 
One-groove sheave for cable, 121 
One kind of economy, 311 
One way of making crosshead 

pattern, 153 
Oxalic acid, 36 

Paint, oil, 38 
Paraffine wax, 40, 41 
Parting line for steam cylinder, 
142 
of rim for traction 
wheel, 205 
Patterns, accounts, 325 
average life, 326 



342 



INDEX. 



Patterns, castings for, 237, 268, 
290, 292, 304 
centring of split, 91, 92 
cost, 309 
durability of, 17 
for angle valve, 209 
chain wheel, 130 
conveyor, 193 
conveyor, core-box for, 

194, 195, 196 
cylinder head, 152 
globe valve, 209 
globe valve, how to 

build up, 210 
hexagon nut, 256 
moulding machine, 234, 

239, 268, 297 
pulleys, 113 
repairs, 311 
screws, 189, 197, 204 
/ single casting, 36 
slide valve, 149 
steam cylinder, 139 
stools, 240, 241, 242 
worm, 202 

worm, core-box for, 203 
worm nut, 200 
from solid stock, 235, 236, 

237 
how to cheapen, 313 
how to mark, 315 
improvement in cost, 309 
inventory, 325 
inventory, value of, 326 
mark on drawing, 316 
material for metal, 233 
metal, 19 

need of weight in, 260 
of aluminum, 233 
of white metal, 233 



Patterns, on plate, how to space, 
246 
plate, 242, 251 
rules for construction of, 16 
shop, location of, 53 
to depreciate value of, 327 
total value of, 326 
useful life of, 326 
value of old, 326 
with no draft, 241 
without dowels, 156 
yearly depreciation of, 330 
Patternmaker, qualifications of, 
28 
metal, 15, 19, 27 
Patternmaking, 15 
Pattern and core-box : 

location in safe, 322, 324 
shop cost of, 324 
Peculiar job of turning, 94 
Pieces, loose, 18 

Pine plates, to make weather- 
proof, 259 
Pine, white, 18, 31 
Piston pattern, 150 
Pitch, bevel of, at circumference 
of propeller wheel, 178 
at any part of propeller 

wheel, 179 
line, of propeller wheel, 177 
of chain, to measure, 133 
of nut and screw, 201 
of old propeller wheel, to 

find, 188 
of propeller wheels, 176 
Pitman, 60 
Planer, 53 
Planes, bench, 48 
Plaster, core-box, 233, 271, 287, 
290 



INDEX. 



343 



Plaster, how to mix, 270 

Plate patterns, how to space, 241 

Plates, match, for multiple 

boxes, 297 
Poplar, 31 
Pores in wood, 32 
Port core of steam cylinder, 144, 

145 
Practice, common with metal 

patterns, 233 
Prefix for index, 315 
Prejudice, 23 

Preparing work for the lathe, 89 
Pride in ability, 311 
Principle of sawing prisms, 73 
Prints, diameter of, for nut, 200 
Propeller wheels, 176 

a good way to start, 182 
bevel of pitch at cir- 
cumference, 158 
centres of courses, 179 
cutting stuff for, 178 
drawing for, 176 
lines on first course, 181 
modification of pitch, 

184 
pitch lines, 177 
second course, 181 
shaping pattern, 185 
short courses, 183 
templet for, 177, 178 
thickness of courses, 

178^ 
to find pitch at any 
point, 179 
Pulley arms, 114, 121 
cable, 120 
core-box, 119 
hubs, 119 
patterns, 113 



Pulley patterns, grading of, 118 

spiders, 116 
Purchasing tools, 49 
Putting on gear teeth, 160, 161 

thread on screw pattern, 
200 
Putty, 19, 41 

fillets, 97 
Pyrotechnic engineer, 26 
Pyroxylic spirit, 37 

Qualifications of a good pat- 
ternmaker, 28 

Rack, to space teeth, 163 
Recording patterns, 315 
Record index, 320, 321 

card details, 322, 324 
Red varnish, 37 
Requisites of a good speed lathe, 

84 
Resin, 40 
Roughing out core-boxes, 67, 68, 

76 
Rounding corners of wings, 229, 

230 
Rubber covering, 57 
Rules for construction of pat- 
terns, 16 
for grinding tools, 50 
Runners for gating patterns, 238 

Saddle of lathe, 84 

Sample core for globe - valve, 

283 
Sandpaper, 42 

Saving money on patterns, 310 
Saw, cross-cut, 65 

crosshead for jig, 60 

filing, 57, 63, 65 



344 



INDEX. 



Saw guides, 52, 53, 56, 57, 58, 
59,62 

hand, 51 

kerf, 64 

slide, adjustable, 76 

to adjust, 57 

wheels, to adjust, 57 
Sawing angles, 78 

Canada dovetails, 74 

curves, 56 

dovetailed wedges, 72 

dovetails, 75 

fillets, 73 

heads for stave work, 100, 

lOI 

mitres, 78 

octagonal prisms, 72 

pieces to a length, 79 

staves, 71, 72, 183, 184 

wedges, 70 
Saws, jig, 59 

setting of, 62 

speed of, 56, 57 

splitting, 64 

whip, 52 
Scales, 25 

Screw and nut, pitch of thread, 
201 

drawing the pattern, 203 

nut for, 201 

pattern for, 189, 204 

pattern, core-box for, 199 

propellers, 176 

thread, to lay out, 198 
Second course for propeller 

wheel, 181 
Securing wings in globe-valve 

core-box, 223, 224 
Segment cores, length of, 132 
Segments, templet for, 106 



Segment work, 106, 108, 109 
Sensitiveness of wood, 33 
Setting cores for cable pulley, 129 

saws, 62 

the fence, 66 
Shape of ears on multiple boxes, 

295 
Shaping pattern of propeller 

wheel, 185 
Sharp tools, 48, 49 
Sheet metal gates, 238 
Shellac, 19, 35 
Shooting-board, 51 
Short courses for propeller wheel, 

183 
Shrinkage of wood. 31, 32 
Single casting, pattern for, 36 

tooth chain wheel, 137 
Size of lathe, 80 
Skill, 48 
Slide, adjustable, 76 

valve pattern, 149 
Small steam cylinder, 147 
Space between cores in multiple 
- boxes, 286 
Spacing gear patterns, 162 

of chain wheels, 133 

of dovetails, accurately, 77 

patterns, 246 

rack, 163 

wood plate, 260 
Specialization of work, 52 
Special stool pattern, 251, 253 

tools for the lathe, 93 
Speed of lathe, 85 

of saws, 60 
Spiral, to cut in lathe, 83 

gears, 169 

grooved cable pulley, 125, 
126, 127 



INDEX. 



345 



Spirit, pyroxylic, 37 

Split patterns, centring of, 91, 92 

without dowels, 156 
Splitting saw, 64 
Spreading varnish, 37 
Sprocket-wheel, 138 
Squaring across the face of gear, 
164 
up centre for globe valve 
core-box, 216 
Standard size for multiple boxes, 

297 
Staves, for core-boxes, 105 
hollowing out, 69 
sawing of, 71, 72, 103, 104 
Stave work, 99 

heads for, 99, 100, loi, 102 
Steam-chest core, 144 
core print for, 143 
cover, 148 
Steam cyHnder, body of, 141 
jacket core, 147 
parting of, 142 
pattern, 139 
small, 147 
Steam piston, 150 
Steam port core, 144 
Sticking of face plates, to pre- 
vent, 92 
Stools, 46 

Stool patterns, 240, 241, 243, 
244, 251, 252 
plate, 242, 251 
Stopping off core-box for chain 

drum, 192 
Straight arms, 160 
Strengthening pattern for pro- 
peller wheel, 186 
Stripping plate, 242, 247, 251 
jig for drilling, 245 



Substitute for varnish, 35 
Surface, a good, 37 
Swelling of wood, 31, 32 

Table, 45 

saw, 56, 65, 66 
Tabbed card, how marked, 320, 

321 
Tail-centre, 84, 8S 
Tallow, bayberry, 41 

beef, 40, 41 
Tally card, 321 
Tapered seat in globe valve, 

228 
Teeth, gear, 59, 160 

draft, for gear, 165 
Templets for cants, 106 

globe valve ball, 212 
globe valve core-box, 

218 
hexagon, 248 
propeller wheel, 177, 

178 
"V" gear teeth, 171 
Ten-year table, 328 
Tension spring for jig saw, 60 
Test gauge for gear teeth, 168 
Testing dividers, 162 

instrument for bevel gear 

teeth, 175 
pattern for propeller wheel, 
184 
Thickness of courses, for cant 
work, no 
of courses, for propeller 

wheel, 178 
of edge for tools, 49 
of glue, 40 
Thread, to cut on screw pattern, 
199 J 



346 



INDEX. 



Thread, to put on screw pattern, 

200 

Timber cross-grained, 32 
close-grained, 33 
old, 18 
young, 43 
To clean thread on spindle nose, 

92 
To find pitch of propeller wheel 

at any point, 179 
To lay out chain drum, 190 

seat for globe valve, 225 
screw thread, 197 
Tool cases, or cupboards, 44 
chests, 47 
grinder, wet, 50 
Tools, cutting, 48 

for laying out work, 47 
good, 49 
machine, 19, 53 
modern, 47 
old-fashioned, 47 
purchase of, 49 
rules for grinding, 50 
sharp, 48, 49 
special, for lathe, 93 
thickness of edge, 49 
turning, for hand use, 83 
To prevent flat patterns from 

warping, 148 
To put on gear teeth, 160, 161 
Top surface of bench, 44 
Total value of patterns, 326 
Translating drawings, 52 
Traction wheel, farm engine, 205 
arms, 206 
fitting in arms, 207 
gluing up hub, 205 
rim, parting of, 205 
Triple-tooth chain wheel, 136 



Turning a ball, 89 

a peculiar job of, 94 
example of, 86 
fillets, 98 

tools for hand use, 83 
wood in engine lathe, 83 

Twenty-year table, 330 

Uneven spacing of gear teeth, 

166 
Unit for multiple core - boxes, 
290 
for multiple core-boxes, fit- 
ting together, 290, 291, 
292, 293, 294 
for multiple core-boxes, how 
mould should be made, 
292 
for multiple core-boxes, 
parting line for moulder, 
292 
for multiple core-boxes, sol- 
dering, 293 
Untidiness, 43 
Useful life of patterns, 326 
Use of jig for stripping plate, 246, 
247, 248 

Valve, angle, 209 

globe, 208 

globe and angle, difference 
in, 209 

globe and angle, core-box 
for, 213 
Value of old patterns, 326 

of patterns, for inventory, 
326 

of patterns, how to de- 
preciate, 327 

of patterns, total, 326 



INDEX. 



347 



Varnish, i8, 35 

black, 37 

blue, 37 

fresh, 36 

mixing colored, 37 

red, 37 

spreading, 37 

substitute for, 35 

to save, 311 
Vibrator, 256 

plate, 250, 256 
Vise, 45 
"V'gear, 169 

Warping of flat patterns, to 

prevent, 148 
Wax, paraffine, 40, 41 

fillets, 97 
Weather-proofing pine plates, 

259 
Wedges, cutting to a point, 70 
Wedges for gear teeth, 72 

for loose pieces, 72 
Weight in patterns, need for, 260 

of wood, 24 
Wet tool grinder, 50 
Wheel, chain, templets for core- 
boxes, 134 
band-saw, 57 
Where the pattern goes from 

pattern-shop, 319 
Whip-saw, 52 
White metal back, 299, 300 



White metal back, gating of, 300 

patterns, 233 
White pine, 18, 31 
Whitewood, 31 
Width of bench, 43 
Wings in globe valve core-box, 
221 

cutting off top corner, 229 

cutting off tip, 227 

rounding corner, 229, 230 
Wood alcohol, 36, 37 
Wood, Cuba, 18 

centre, 90 

fillets, 96 

Mexican, 18, 33 

pores in, 32 

sensitiveness of, 33 

shrinkage of, 31, 32 

swelling of, 31, 32 

weight of, 24 
Work, bench, 51 

laying out, 51 

preparing for the lat'he, 89 

specialization of, 52 
Worm patterns, 202 

wheels, 169 

Yearly depreciation of patterns, 

330 
Yoke end of globe valve core, 273 
of globe valve core-box, 
220 
Young timber, 18 



NOV 29 1913 




PRACTICAL SCIENTIFIC 
TECHNICAL 



EACH BOOK IN THIS CATALOGUE IS WRITTEN BY 

AN EXPERT AND IS WRITTEN SO YOU 

CAN UNDERSTAND IT 



THE NORiN W. HENLEY POBIISHINI] GOiANY 

Publishers of Scientific and Practical Books 
132 Nassau Street New York, U.S. A. 



Any book in this Catalogue sent prepaid on receipt of price. 



SUBJECT INDEX 



^.._ PAGE 

Accidents 18 

Air Brakes 17, 19 

Arithmetics 20 

Automobiles 3 

Balloons 3 

Bevel Gears 14 

Boilers 22 

Brazing 3 

Cams 15 

Car Charts 4 

Change Gear 14 

Charts 3, 4, 22 

Chemistry 23 

Coal Mining 23 

Coke 4 

Compressed Air 5 

Concrete 5 

Cyclopedia 4, 20 

Dictionaries 7 

Dies 7 

Drawing 8, 24 

Drop Forging 7 

Dynamo . 9, 10. 11 

Electricity 9, 10. 11, 12 

Engines and Boilers 22 

Factory Management 12 

Flying Machines 3 

Fuel 13 

Gas Manufacturing 14 

Gas Engines 13, 14 

Gears 14 

Heating, Electric 9 

Hot Water Heating 27 

Horse-Power Chart 4 

Hydraulics 15 

Ice Making 15 

India Rubber 25 

Interchangeable Manufacturing 20 

Inventions 15 

Knots 15 

Lathe Work 16 

Lighting (Electric) 9 

Link Motion 17 

Liquid Air 16 

Locomotive Boilers 18 

Locomotive Engineering 17, 18, 19 

Machinist's Books 20, 21, 22 



PAOB 

Manual Training 22 

Marine Engines 22 

Marine Steam Turbines 29 

Mechanical Movements 20, 21 

Metal Turning 16 

Milling Machines 21 

Mining 22, 23 

Oil Engines 13 

Patents 15 

Pattern Making 23 

Perfumery 23 

Pipes 28 

Plumbing 24 

Producer Gas 13 

Punches 7 

Railroad Accidents 18 

Receipt Book 23, 25 

Refrigeration 15 

Rope Work 15 

Rubber Stamps 25 

Saws 26 

Sheet Metal Working 7 

Shop Tools 21 

Shop Construction 20 

Shop Management 20 

Sketching Paper 8 

Smoke Prevention 13 

Soldering 3 

Splices 15 

Steam Engineering 26, 27 

Steam Heating 27 

Steam Pipes 28 

Steel 28 

Superheated Steam 17 

Switchboards 9, 11 

Tapers 16 

Telephone 12 

Threads 22 

Tools 20, 22 

Turbines 29 

Ventilation 27 

Valve Gear 19 

Valve Setting 17 

Walschaert Valve Gear 19 

Watchmaking 29 

Wiring 9, 11, 12 

Wireless Telephones and Telegraphy 12 



C^^ ANY OF THESE BOOKS PROMPTLY SENT PREPAID TO ANY ADDRESS IN 
THE WORLD ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. 

^ii^^How to Remit— By Postal Money Order, Express Money Order, Bank Draft 

or Registered Letter. 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

AUTOMOBILE 

THE MODERN GASOLINE AUTOMOBILE— ITS DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, 

MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page, M. E. 

The latest and most complete treatise on the Gasoline Automobile ever issued. Written 
in simple language by a recognized authority, familiar with every branch of the automobile 
industry. Free from technical terms. Everything is explained so simply that anyone of 
average intelligence may gain a comprehensive knowledge of the gasoline automobile. 
The information is up-to-date and includes, in addition to an exposition of principles of 
construction and description of all types of automobiles and their components, valuable 
money-saving hints on the care and operation of motor cars propelled by internal combus- 
tion engines. Among some of the subjects treated might be mentioned: Torpedo and other 
symmetrical body forms designed to reduce air resistance; sleeve valve, rotary valve and 
other types of silent motors; increasing tendency to favor worm-gear power- transmission ; 
universal application of magneto ignition; development of automobile electric-Ughting 
systems; block motors; underslung chassis; application of practical self-starters; long stroke 
and offset cylinder motors; latest automatic lubrication systems; silent chains for valve 
operation and change-speed gearing; the use of front wheel brakes and many other detail 
refinements. 

By a careful study of the pages of this book one can gain practical knowledge of automobile 
construction that will save time, money and worry. The book tells you just what to do, how 
and when to do it. Nothing has been omitted, no detail has been slighted. Every part of 
the automobile, its equipment, accessories, tools, supplies, spare parts necessary, etc., have 
been discussed comprehensively. If you are or intend to become a motorist, or are in 
any way interested in the modern Gasoline Automobile, this is a book you cannot afford to 
be without. Nearly 600 6x9 pages — and more than 500 new and specially made detail il- 
lustrations, as well as many full page and double page plates, showing all parts of the 
automobile. Including nine large folding plates. Price $2>50 

BALLOONS AND FLYING MACHINES 



MODEL BALLOONS AND FLYING MACHINES. WITH A SHORT ACCOUNT OF 
THE PROGRESS OF AVIATION. By J. H. Alexander. 

This book has been written with a view to assist those who desire to construct a model airship 
or flying machine. It contains five folding plates of working drawings, each sheet containing 
a different sized machine. Much instruction and amusement can be obtained from the making 
and flying of these models. 

A short account of the progress of aviation is included, which will render the book of greater 
interest. Several illustrations of full sized airship and flying machines of the latest types are 
scattered throughout the text. This practical work gives data, working drawings, and details 
which will assist materially those interested in the problems of flight. 127 pages, 45 illustra- 
tions, 5 folding plates. Price $1.50 

BRAZING AND SOLDERING 



BRAZING AND SOLDERING. By James F. Hobart. 

The only book that shows you just how to handle any job of brazing or soldering that comes 
iklong; tells you what mixture to use, how to make a furnace if you need one. Full of 
valuable kinks. The fifth edition of this book has just been pubUshed, and to it much 
new matter and a large nmnber of tested formulas for all kinds of solders and fluxes have 
been added. Illustrated S5 cents 

CHARTS 



MODERN SUBMARINE CHART— WITH 200 PARTS NUMBERED AND NAMED. 

A cross-section view, showing clearly and distinctly all the i^^terior of a Submarine of the 
latest type. You get more information from this chart, about the construction and opera- 
tion of a Submarine, than in any other way. No details omitted — everything is accurate 
and to scale. It is absolutely correct in every detail, having been approved by Naval 
Engineers. All the machinery and devices fitted in a modern Submarine Boat are shown, and 
to make the engraving more readily understood all the features are shown in operative form, 
with Officers and Men in the act of performing the duties assigned to them in service con- 
ditions. This CHART IS REALLY AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF A SUBMARINE. It 
is educational and worth many times its cost. Mailed in a Tube for 25 cents 



CATA LOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

■ ■-■' ' 

BOX CAR CHART. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a box car, having every part of the car numbered and its 
proper name given in a reference list 20 cents 

GONDOLA CAR CHART. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a gondola car, having every part of the car numbered and 
its proper reference name given in a reference list SO cents 

PASSENGER CAR CHART. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a passenger car, having every part of the car numbered and 
its proper name given in a reference list SO cents 

WESTINGHOUSE AIR-BRAKE CHARTS. 

Chart I. — Shows (in colors) the most modern Westinghouse High Speed and Signal Equip- 
ment used on Passenger Engines, Passenger Engine Tenders, and Passenger Cars. Chart 
II. — Shows (in colors) the Standard Westinghouse Equipment for Freight and Switch En- 
gines, Freight and Switch Engine Tenders, and Freight Cars. Price for the set . 50 cents 

TRACTIVE POWER CHART. 

A chart whereby you can find the tractive power or drawbar pull of any locomotive, without 
making a figure. Shows what cylinders are equal, how driving wheels and steam pressure 
affect the power. What sized engine you need to exert a given drawbar pull or anything 
you desire m this line 50 cents 

HORSE POWER CHART. 

Shows the horse power of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the 
cylinder diameter of stroke; the steam pressure or cut-off; the revolutions, or whether con- 
densing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calcu- 
lations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents 

BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowler. 

A Chart — size 14x28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the mechanisms belonging'! 
in a modern boiler room. Water tube boilers, ordinary grates and mechanical stokers, feed 
water heaters and pumps comprise the equipment. The various parts are shown broken or 
removed, so that the internal construction is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference : 
number, and these, with the corresponding name, are given in a glossary printed at the sides. , 
This chart is really a dictionary of the boiler room — the names of more than 200 parts being ! 
given. It is educational — worth many times its cost S5 cents 

CIVIL ENGINEERING 



HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL ENGINEERING AND ALLIED 

TRADES. Edited by Joseph G. Horner, A. M. I. E. M. 

This set of five volumes contains about 2,500 pages with thousands of illustrations, including | 
diagrammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. This work covers the 
entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known experts in all branches 
of engineering have contributed to these volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted 
to the needs of the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the mechanical en- 
gineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman, and machinist. The work will be 
found a means of advancement to any progressive man. It is encyclopedic in scope, thorough 
and practical in its treatment of technical subjects, simple and clear in its descriptive matter, 
and without unnecessary technicalities or formulae. The articles are as brief as may be and 
yet give a reasonably clear and explicit statement of the subject, and are written by men who 
have had ample practical experience in the matters of which they write. It tells you all you 
want to know about engineering and tells it so simply, so clearly, so concisely, that one cannot 
help but understand. As a work of reference it is without a peer, $6.00 per single volume. 
For complete set of five volumes, price $S5.00 

COKE 



COKE— MODERN COKING PRACTICE; INCLUDING THE ANALYSIS OF 

MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. By T. H. Byrom and J. E. Christopher. 

A handbook for those engaged in Coke manufacture and the recovery of By-products. Fully 
illustrated with folding plates. It has been the aim of the authors, in preparing this book, 
to produce one which shall be of use and benefit to those who are associated with, or inter- 
ested in, the modern developments of the industry. Contents: I. Introductory. II. Gen- 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

eral Classification of Fuels. III. Coal Washing. IV. The Sampling and Valuation of Coal, 
Coke, etc. V. The Calorific Power of Coal and Coke. VI. Coke Ovens. VII. Coke Ovens, 
continued. VIII. Coke Ovens, continued. IX. Charging and Discharging of Coke Ovens, 
X. Cooling and Condensing Plant. XI. Gas Exhausters. XII. Composition and Analysis 
of Ammoniacal Liquor. XIII. Working-up of Ammoniacal Liquor. XIV. Treatment of 
Waste Gases from Sulphate Plants. XV. Valuation of Ammonium Sulphate. XVI. Direct 
Recovery of Ammonia from Coke Oven Gases. XVII. Surplus Gas from Coke Oven. Use- 
ful Tables. Very fully illustrated. Price $3. 50 net 

COMPRESSED AIR 

COMPRESSED AIR IN ALL ITS APPLICATIONS. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is the most complete book on the subject of Air that has ever been issued, and its thirty- 
five chapters include about every phase of the subject one can think of. It may be called an 
encyclopedia of compressed air. It is written by an expert, who, in its 665 pages, has dealt 
with the subject in a comprehensive manner, no phase of it being omitted. Includes the 
physical properties of air from a vacuum to its highest pressure, its thermodynamics, com- 
pression, transmission and uses as a motive power; in the Operation of Stationary and Port- 
able Machinery, in Mining. Air Tools, Air Lifts, Pumping of Water, Acids, and Oils; the 
Air Blast for Cleaning and Painting, the Sand Blast and its Work, and the Numerous Appli- 
ances in which Compressed Air is a Most Convenient and Economical Transmitter of Power 
for Mechanical Work, Railway Propulsion, Refrigeration, and the Various Uses to which 
Compressed Air has been applied. Includes forty-four tables of the physical properties of 
air, its compression, expansion, and volumes required for various kinds of work, and a list of 
patents on compressed air from 1875 to date. Over 500 illustrations, 5th Edition, revised and 
enlarged. Cloth boimd, $5.00. Half Morocco, price $6.60 

CONCRETE 

ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE WITHOUT MOLDS. By A. A. Houghton. 

The process for making ornamental concrete without molds has long been held as a secret, and 
now, for the first time, this process is given to the public. The book reveals the secret and is 
the only book published which explains a simple, practical method whereby the concrete worker 
is enabled, by employing wood and metal templates of different designs, to mold or model in 
concrete any Cornice, Archivolt, Column, Pedestal, Base Cap, Urn or Pier in a monolithic 
form — right upon the job. These may be molded in units or blocks, and then built up to suit the 
specifications demanded. This work is fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. Price $2.00 

CONCRETE FROM SAND MOLDS. By A. A. Houghton. 

A Practical Work treating on a process which has heretofore been held as a trade secret by 
the few who possessed it, and which will successfully mold every and any class of ornamental 
concrete work. The process of molding concrete with sand molds is of the utmost practical 
value, possessing the manifold advantages of a low cost of molds, the ease and rapidity of 
operation, perfect details to all ornamental designs, density, and increased strength of the 
concrete, perfect curing of the work without attention and the easy removal of the molds re- 
gardless of any undercutting the design may have. 192 pages. Fully illustrated. Price $S.OO 

CONCRETE WALL FORMS. By A. A. Houghton. 

A new automatic wall clamp is illustrated with working drawings. Other types of wall 
forms, clamps, separators, etc., are also illustrated and explained 50 cents 

CONCRETE FLOORS AND SIDEWALKS. By A. A. Houghton. 

The molds for molding squares, hexagonal and many other styles of mosaic floor and side- 
walk blocks are fully illustrated and explained 50 cents 

PRACTICAL CONCRETE SILO CONSTRUCTION. By A. A. Houghton. 

Complete working drawings and specifications are given for several styles of concrete slloa, 
with illustrations of molds for monolithic and block silos. The tables, data and information 
presented in this book are of the utmost value in planning and constructing all forms of concrete 
silos 50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE CHIMNEYS, SLATE AND ROOF TILES. By 
A. A. Houghton. 

The manufacture of all types of concrete slate and roof tile is fully treated. Valuable data 
on all forms of reinforced concrete roofs are contained within its pages. The construction of 
concrete chimneys by block and monoHthic systems is fully illustrated and described. A 
number of ornamental designs of chimney construction with molds are shown in this valu- 
able treatise .... 50 centi 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

M^^— H^^^i^M ■ ■■!■■ ■■»■■■»»■ 111 ■■ II l.l^l II ■ ■ ■■ ■■■ II ■■ ■■ »IM I — i— ^<l ^1 II 

MOLDING AND CURING ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE. By A. A. Houghton. 

The proper proportions of cement and aggregates for various finishes, also the methods of 
thoroughly mixing and placing in the molds, are fully treated. An exhaustive treatise on this 
subject that every concrete worker will find of daily use and value 50 cents 

CONCRETE MONUMENTS, MAUSOLEUMS AND BURIAL VAULTS. By A. A. 

Houghton. 

The molding of concrete monuments to imitate the m.ost expensive cut stone is explained In 

this treatise, with working drawings of easily built molds. Cutting inscriptions and designs 

is also fully treated .50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 

By A. A. Houghton. 

Simple molds and instruction are given for molding many styles of concrete bath tubs, 
swimming pools, etc. These molds are easily built and permit rapid and successful 
work 50 cents 

CONCRETE BRIDGES, CULVERTS AND SEWERS. By A. A. Houghton. 

A number of ornamental concrete bridges with illustrations of molds are given. A collapsible 
center or core for bridges, culverts and sewers is fully illustrated with detailed instructions for 
building ... 60 cents 

CONSTRUCTING CONCRETE PORCHES. By A. A. Houghton. 

A number of designs with working drawings of molds are fully explained so anyone can easily 
construct different styles of ornamental concrete porches without the purchase of expensive 
molds 50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER POTS, BOXES, JARDINIERES, ETC. By 

A. A. Houghton. 

The molds for producing many original designs of flower pots, urns, flower boxes, jardinieres, 
etc., are fully illustrated and explained, so the worker can easily construct and operate 
same 50 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE FOUNTAINS AND LAWN ORNAMENTS. By 

A. A. Houghton. 

The molding of a number of designs of lawn seats, curbing, hitching posts, pergolas, sun dials 
and other forms of ornamental concrete for the ornamentation of lawns and gardens, is 
fully illustrated and described 50 cents 

CONCRETE FOR THE FARM AND SHOP. By A. A. Houghton. 

The molding of drain tile, tanks, cisterns, fence posts, stable floors, hog and poultry houses 
and all the purposes for which concrete is an invaluable aid to the farmer are numbered 
among the contents of this handy volume , 50 cents 

POPULAR HANDBOOK FOR CEMENT AND CONCRETE USERS. By Myron 

H. Lewis, 

This is a concise treatise of the principles and methods employed in the manufacture and use 
of cement in all classes of modern works. The author has brought together in this work all 
the salient matter of interest to the user of concrete and its many diversified products. The 
matter is presented in logical and systematic order, clearly written, fully illustrated and free 
from involved mathematics. Everything of value to the concrete user is given including kinds 
of cement employed in construction, concrete architecture, inspection and testing, water- 
proofing, coloring and painting, rules, tables, working, and cost data. The book comprises 
thirty-three chapters, as follows: 

Introductory. Kinds of Cements and How They are Made. Properties, Testing and 
Requirements of Hydraulic Cement. Concrete and its Properties. Sand, Broken Stone and 
Gravel for Concrete. How to Proportion the Materials. How to Mix and Place Concrete. 
Forms for Concrete Construction. The Architectural and Artistic Possibilities of Concrete. 
Concrete Residences. Mortars, Plasters and Stucco and How to Use Them. The Artistic 
Treatment of Concrete Surfaces. Concrete Building Blocks. The Making of Ornamental 
Concrete. Concrete Pipes, Fences, Posts, Etc. Essential Features and Advantages of Reen- 
forced Concrete. How to Design Reenforced Concrete Beams, Slabs and Columns. Ex- 
planations of the Methods and Principles in Designing Reenforced Concrete Beams and 
Slabs. Systems of Reenforcement Employed. Reenforced Concrete in Factory and General 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Building Construction. Concrete in Foundation Work. Concrete Retaining Walls, Abut- 
ments, and Bulkheads. Concrete Arches and Arch Bridges. Concrete Beam and Girder 
Bridges. Concrete in Sewerage and Drainage Works. Concrete Tanks, Dams and Reser- 
voirs. Concrete Sidewalks, Curbs and Pavements. Concrete in Railroad Constructions. 
The UtiUty of Concrete on the Farm. The Waterproofing of Concrete Structure. Grout 
or Liquid Concrete and Its Use. Inspection of Concrete Work. Cost of Concrete Work. 
Some of the special features of the book are: 1. The Attention Paid to the Artistic and 
Architectural Side of Concrete Work. 2. The Authoritative Treatment of the Problem 
of Waterproofing Concrete. 3. An Excellent Summary of the Rules to be Followed in 
Concrete Construction. 4. The Valuable Cost Data and Useful Tables given. A valuable 
Addition to the Library of Every Cement and Concrete User. Price $2.50 

WATERPROOFING CONCRETE. By Myron H. Lewis. 

Modern Methods of Waterproofing Concrete and Other Structures. A condensed statement 
of the Principles, Rules, and Precautions to be Observed in Waterproofing and Damp- 
proofing Structures and Structural Materials. Paper binding. Illustrated. Price. .50 cents 

DICTIONARIES 



STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the student 
and professional, A practical hand-book of reference containing definitions of about 5,000 
distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every 
term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An entirely new edition. Should be in 
the possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progress of this branch of science. 
Complete, concise and convenient. 682 pages. 393 illustrations. Price .... $3.00 

DIES— METAL WORK 



DIES: THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE MODERN WORKING OF 

SHEET METALS. By J. V. Woodworth. 

A most useful book, and one which should be in the hands of all engaged in the press working 
of metals; treating on the Designing, Constructing, and Use of Tools, Fixtures and Devices, 
together with the manner in which they should be used in the Power Press, for the cheap and 
rapid production of the great variety of sheet metal articles now in use. It is designed as a 
guide to the production of sheet metal parts at the minimum of cost with the maximum of 
output. The hardening and tempering of Press tools and the classes of work which may be 
produced to the best advantage by the use of dies in the power press are fully treated. Its 
505 illustrations show dies, press fixtures and sheet metal working devices, the descriptions 
of which are so clear and practical that all metal-working mechanics will be able to understand 
how to design, construct and use them. Many of the dies and press fixtures treated were 
either constructed by the author or under his supervision. Others were built by skilful 
mechanics and are in use in large sheet metal establishments and machine shops. Price $8.00 

PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFACTURING IN PRESSES. By J. V. 
Woodworth. 

This work is a companion volume to the author's elementary work entitled "Dies, Their 
Construction and Use." It does not go into the details of die making to the extent of the 
author's previous book, but gives a comprehensive review of the field of operations carried on 
by presses. A large part of the information given has been drawn from the author's personal 
experience. It might well be termed an Encyclopedia of Die Making, Punch Making, Die 
Sinking, Sheet Metal Working, and Making of Special Tools, Sub-presses, Devices and Mechani- 
cal Combinations for Punching, Cutting, Bending, Forming, Piercing, Drawing, Compressing 
and Assembling Sheet Metal Parts, and also Articles of other Materials in Machine Tools. 
2d Edition. Price $4.00 

DROP FORGING, DIE SINKING AND MACHINE FORMING OF STEEL. By J. V. 

Woodworth. 

This is a practical treatise on Modem Shop Practice, Processes, Methods, Machines, Tools, 
and Details, treating on the Hot and Cold Machine-Forming of Steel and Iron into Finished 
shapes; Together with Tools, Dies, and Machinery involved in the manufacture of Duplicate 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Forgings and Interchangeable Hot and Cold Pressed Parts from Bar and Sheet Metal. 
This book fills a demand of long standing for Information regarding drop forging, die-sinking 
and machine forming of steel and the shop practice involved, as it actually exists in the 
modern drop forging shop. The processes of die-sinking and force-making, which are thor- 
oughly described and illustrated in this admirable work, are rarely tc be found explained in 
such a clear and concise manner as is here set forth. The process of die-sinking relates to 
the engraving or sinking of the female or lower dies, such as are used for drop forgings, hot 
and cold machine forging, swedging and the press working of metals. The process of force- 
making relates to the engraving or raising of the male or upper dies used in producing the 
lower dies for the press-forming and machine-forging of duplicate parts of metal. 

In addition to the arts above mentioned the book contains explicit information regarding 
bhe drop forging and hardening plants, designs, conditions, equipment, drop hammers, 
'orging machines, etc., machine forging, hydraulic forging, autogenous welding and shop 
practice. The book contains eleven chapters, and the information contained in these chapters 
s just what will prove most valuable to the forged metal worker. All operations described 
n the work are thoroughly illustrated by means of perspective half-tones and outline sketches 
)f the machinery employed. 300 detailed illustrations. Price $2.50 

DRAWING— SKETCHING PAPER 



LINEAR PERSPECTIVE SELF-TAUGHT. By Herman T. C. Kraus. 

rhis work gives the theory and practice of linear perspective, as used in architectural, engl~ 
leering, and mechanical drawings. Persons taking up the study of the subject by themselves 
Till be able by the use of the instruction given to readily grasp the subject, and by reason- 
ible practice become good perspective draftsmen. The arrangement of the book is good ; 
he plate is on the left-hand, while the descriptive text follows on the opposite page, so as to 
)e readily referred to. The drawings are on sufficiently large scale to show the work clearly 
md are plainly figured. The whole work makes a very complete course on perspective draw- 
ng, and will be found of great value to architects, civil and mechanical engineers, patent 
Lttorneys, art designers, engravers, and draftsmen $2.50 

PRACTICAL PERSPECTIVE. By Richards and Colvin. 

shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings in the only practical perspective 
soraetric. Makes everything plain so that any mechanic can understand a sketch or drawing 
n this way. Saves time in the drawing room, and mistakes in the shops. Contains practical 
ixamples of various classes of work. 3rd Edition 50 cents 

5ELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING AND ELEMENTARY MACHINE 

DESIGN. By F- L. Sylvester, M.E., Draftsman, with additions by Erik Oberq, 

issociate editor of "Machinery." 

rhis is a practical treatise on Mechanical Drawing and Machine Design, comprising the 
irst principles of geometric and mechanical drawing, workshop mathematics, mechanics, 
:trength of materials and the calculations and design of machine details. The author's 
dm has been to adapt this treatise to the requirements of the practical mechanic and young 
draftsman and to present the matter in as clear and concise a manner as possible. To 
neet the demands of this class of students, practically all the important elements of machine 
lesign have been dealt with, and in addition algebraic formulas have been explained, and 
;he elements of trigonometry treated in the manner best suited to the needs of the prac- 
tical man. The book is divided into 20 chapters, and in arranging the material, mechan- 
cal drawing, pure and simple, has been taken up first, as a thorough understanding of the 
principles of representing objects facilitates the further study of mechanical subjects. This 
is followed by the mathematics necessary for the solution of the problems in machine de- 
sign which are presented later, and a practical introduction to theoretical mechanics and 
;he strength of materials. The various elements entering into machine design, such as cams, 
jears, sprocket wheels, cone pulleys, bolts, screws, couplings, clutches, shafting and fly- 
vheels have been treated in such a way as to make possible the use of the work as a text- 
)ook for a continuous course of study. It is easily comprehended and assimilated even by 
students of limited previous training. 330 pages, 215 engravings. Price. . . . $2.00 

K NEW SKETCHING PAPER. 

\. new specially ruled paper to enable you to make sketches or drawings in isometric perspective 
vithout any figuring or fussing. It is being used for shop details as well as for assembly 
irawings, as it makes one sketch do the work of three, and no workman can help seeing just 
vhat is wanted. Pads of 40 sheets, 6x9 inches, 25 cents. Pads of 40 sheets, 9 x 12 inches. 
50 cents; 40 sheets, 12x18. Price $1.00 

8 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 
ELECTRICITY 

ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

A practical treatise on electrical calculations of all kinds reduced to a series of rules, all of the 
simplest forms, and involving only ordinary arithmetic; each rule illustrated by one or more 
practical problems, with detailed solution of each one. This book is classed among the most 
useful works published on the science of electricity covering as it does the mathematics of 
electricity in a manner that will attract the attention of those who are not familiar with alge- 
braical formulas. 20th Edition. 160 pages. Price $1.00 

COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. By Wm. Baxter, Jr. 

The business end of any dynamo or motor of the direct current type is the commutator. This 
book goes into the designing, building, and maintenance of commutators, shows how to locate 
troubles and how to remedy them; everyone who fusses with dynamos needs this. 25 cents 

DYNAMO BUILDING FOR AMATEURS, OR HOW TO CONSTRUCT A FIFTY-WATT 
DYNAMO. By Arthur J. Weed, Member of N. Y. Electrical Society. 

A practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small dynamo or motor, the entire 
machine work of which can be done on a small foot lathe. Dimensioned working drawings 
are given for each piece of machine work and each operation is clearly described. This 
machine, when used as a dynamo, has an output of fifty watts; when used as a motor it will 
drive a small drill press or lathe. It can be used to drive a sewing machine on any and all 
ordinary work. The book is illustrated with more than sixty original engravings showing 
the actual construction of the different parts. Among the contents are chapters on 1. Fifty 
Watt Dynamo. 2. Side Bearing Rods. 3. Field Punchings. 4. Bearings. 5. Commu- 
tator. 6. Pulley. 7. Brush Holders. 8. Connection Board. 9. Armature Shaft. 10. 
Armature. 11. Armature Winding. 12. Field Winding. 13. Connecting and Starting. 
Price, paper, 50 cents. Cloth $1.00 

ELECTRIC FURNACES AND THEIR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS. By J. Wright 

This is a book which will prove of interest to many classes of people; the manufacturer who 
desires to know what product can be manufactured successfully in the electric furnace, the 
chemist who wishes to post himself on the electro-chemistry, and the student of science who 
merely looks into the subject from curiosity. The book is not so scientific as to be of use 
only to the technologist, nor so unscientific as to suit only the tyro in electro-chemistry; it 
is a practical treatise of what has been done, and of what is being done, both experimentally 
and commercially with the electric furnace. 

In important processes not only are the chemical equations given, but complete thermal data 
are set forth and both the efficiency of the furnace and the cost of the product are worked 
out, thus giving the work a solid commercial value aside from its efficacy as a work of reference. 
The practical features of furnace building are given the space that the subject deserves. The 
forms and refractory materials used in the linings, the arrangement of the connections to the 
electrodes, and other important details are explained. 288 pages. New Revised Edition. 
Fully illustrated. Price $3.00 

ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND HEATING POCKET BOOK. By Sydney F. Walker. 

This book puts in convenient form useful information regarding the apparatus which is likely 
to be attached to the mains of an electrical company. Tables of units and equivalents are 
included and useful electrical laws and formulas are stated. 

One section is devoted to dynamos, motors, transformers and accessory apparatus; another 
to accumulators, another to switchboards and related equipment, a fourth to a description 
of various systems of distribution, a fifth section to a discussion of instruments, both for 
portable use and switchboards; another section deals with electric lamps of various types 
and accessory appliances, and the concluding section is given up to electric heating apparatus. 
In each section a large number of commercial types are described, frequent tables of dimen- 
sions being included. A great deal of detail information of each line of apparatus is given 
and the illustrations shown give a good idea of the general appearance of the apparatus under 
discussion. The book also contains much valuable information for the central station engi- 
neer. 438 pages. 300 engravings. Bound in leather pocket book form. Price . $8.00 

ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS AND SWITCHBOARDS. By Newton Harrison. 

A thoroughly practical treatise covering the subject of Electric Wiring in all its branches, 
including explanations and diagrams which are thoroughly explicit and greatly simplify 
the subject. Practical every-day problems in wiring are presented and the method of 
obtaining intelligent results clearly shown. Only arithmetic is used. Ohm's law is given 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

" ■ 

a simple explanation with reference to wiring for direct and alternating currents. The funda- 
caental principle of drop of potential in circuits is shown with its various applications. The 
simple circuit is developed with the position of mains, feeders and branches; their treat- 
ment as a part of a wiring plan and their employment in house-wiring clearly illustrated. 
Some simple facts about testing are included in connection with the wiring. Molding 
and conduit work are given careful consideration; and switchboards are systematically 
treated, built up and illustrated, showing the purpose they serve, for connection with the 
circuits, and to shunt and compound wound machines. The simple principles of switchboard 
construction, the development of the switchboard, the connections of the various instru- 
ments including the lightning arrester, are also plainly set forth. 

Alternating current wiring is treated, with explanations of the power factor, conditions 
calUng for various sizes of wire and a simple way of obtaining the sizes for single-phase, two- 
phase and three-phase circuits. This is the only complete work issued showing and telling 
you what you should know about direct and alternating cmrent wiring. It is a ready refer- 
ence. The work is free from advanced technicaUties and mathematics, arithmetic being used 
throughout. It is in every respect a handy, well-written, instructive, comprehensive 
volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor, or electrician. 272 pages ; 105i illus- 
trations. Price $1.50 

ELECTRIC TOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILDING, AND ELECTRIC MOTOR CON- 
STRUCTION. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus, motors, dynamos 
a-nd instruments in general, and is designed to bring within the reach of young and old the 
manufacture of genuine and useful electrical appliances. The work is especially designed for 
amateurs and young folks. 

Thousands of our young people are daily experimenting, and busily engaged in making electrical 
toys and apparatus of various kinds. The present work is just what is wanted to give the 
much needed information in a plain, practical manner, with illustrations to make easy the 
carrying out of the work. 19th Edition. Price $1.00 

ELECTRICIAN'S HANDY BOOK. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This work of 768 pages is intended for the practical electrician who has to make things go. 
The entire field of electricity is covered within its pages. Afnong some of the subjects treated 
are: The Theory of the Electric Current and Circuit, Electro-Chemistry, Primary Batteries, 
Storage Batteries, Generation and Utilization of Electric Powers, Alternating Current, Arma- 
ture Winding, Dynamos and Motors, Motor Generators, Operation of the Central Station 
Switchboards, Safety Appliances, Distribution of Electric Light and Power, Street Mains, 
Transformers, Arc and Incandescent Lighting, Electric Measurements, Photometry, Electric 
Railways, Telephony, Bell-Wiring, Electro-Platmg, Electric Heating, Wireless Telegraphy, etc. 
It contains no useless theory; everything is to the point. It teaches you just what you want 
to know about electricity. It is the standard work published on the subject. Forty-one 
chapters, 610 engravings, handsomely bound in red leather with title and edges in gold. Price: 

$3.50 

ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORKSHOPS, ITS COST AND CONVENIENCE. 
By Arthur P. Haslam. 

A^ practical book for power producers and power users showing what a convenience the electric 
motor, in its various forms, has become to the modern manufacturer. It also deals with the 
conditions which determine the cost of electric driving, and compares this with other methods 
of producing and utilizing power. 

Among the chapters contained in the book are: The Direct Current Motor; The Alternating 
Current Motor; The Starting and Speed Regulation of Electric Motors; The Rating and 
Efficiency of Electric Motors; The Cost of Energy as Affected by Conditions of Working, The 
Question for the Small Power User; Independent Generating Plants; Oil and Gas Engine 
Plants; Steam Plants; Power Station Tariffs ; The Use of Electric Power in Textile Factories; 
Electric Power in Printing Works; The Use of Electric Power in Engineering Workshops 
Miscellaneous Application of Electric Power; The Installation of Electric Motors; The Lighting 
3f Industrial Establishments. 312 pages. Very fully illustrated. Price .... $2.60 

ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

The object of "Electricity Simplified " is to make the subject as plain as possible and to show 
what the modern conception of electricity is; to show how two plates of difl'erent metals 
immersed in acid can send a message around the globe; to explain how a bundle of copper wire 
rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting oiu- streets, to tell what the volt, ohm 
and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to answer the questions that 
perpetually arise in the mind in this age of electricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. Price $ 1.00 

lO 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

HOUSE WIRING. By Thomas W. Poppe. 

This work describes and illustrates the actual installation of Electric Light Wiring, the manner 
in which the work should be done, and the method of doing it. The book can be conveniently- 
carried in the pocket. It is intended for the Electrician, Helper and Apprentice. It 
solves all Wiring Problems, and contains nothing that conflicts with the rulings of the Nation- 
al Board of Fire Underwriters. It gives just the information essential to the Successful 
Wiring of a Building. Among the subjects treated are: Locating the Meter. Panel Boards. 
Switches. Plug Receptacles. Brackets. Ceiling Fixtures. The Meter Connections. The 
Feed Wires. The Steel Armored Cable System. The Flexible Steel Conduit System. The 
Ridig Conduit System. A digest of the National Board of Fire Underwriters' rules relating 
to metallic wiring systems. Various switching arrangements explained and diagrammed. 
The easiest method of testing the Three and Four-way circuits explained. The grounding 
of all metallic wiring systems and the reason for doing so shown and explained. The in- 
sulation of the metal parts of lamp fixtures and the reason for the same described and 
illustrated, 125 pages. Fully illustrated. Flexible cloth. Price . , ... 50 cents 

HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

Every young man who wishes to become a successful electrician should read this book. It telis 
in simple language the surest and easiest way to become a successful electrician. The studies 
to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the requirements of the successful 
electrician are pointed out and fully explained. Every young engineer will find this an ex- 
cellent stepping-stone to more advanced works on electricity which he must master before 
success can be attained. Many young men become discouraged at the very outstart by 
attempting to read and study books that are far beyond their comprehension. This book 
serves as the connecting link between the rudiments taught in the public schools and the real 
study of electricity. It is interesting from cover to cover. Fifteenth edition. 202 pages, 
illustrated. Price $1.00 

MANAGEMENT OF DYNAMOS. By Lummis-Paterson. 

A handbook of theory and practice. This work is arranged in three parts. The first part 
covers the elementary theory of the dynamo. The second part, the construction and action 
of the different classes of dynamos in common use are described; while the third part relates 
to such matters as affect the practical management and working of dynamos and motors. 
The following chapters are contained in the book: Electrical Units; Magnetic Principles; 
Theory of the Dynamo; Armature; Armature in Practice; Field Magnets; Field Magnets in 
Practice; Regulating Dynamos; Coxjpling Dynamos; Installation, Running, and Maintenance 
Df Dynamos; Faults in Dynrmos; Faults in Armatures; Motors. 292 pages. 117 illustra- 
tions. Price 81.60 

STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the student 
and professional. A practical hand-book of reference containing definitions of about 5,000 
distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise and include every 
term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An entirely new edition. Should be in the 
possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progesss of this branch of science. In 
its arrangement and typography the book is very convenient. The word or term defined la 
printed in black-faced type which readily catches the eye, while the body of the page Is in 
smaller but distinct type. The definitions are well worded, and so as to be understood by 
the non-technical reader. The general plan seems to be to give an exact, concise definition, 
and then amplify and explain in a more popular way. Synonyms are also given, and refer- 
ences to other words and phrases are made. A very complete and accurate index of fifty 
pages is at the end of the volume; and as this index contains all synonyms, and as all phrases 
are indexed in every reasonable combination of words, reference to the proper place in the 
body of the book is readily made. It is difficult to decide how far a book of this character 
is to keep the dictionary form, and to what extent it may assume the encyclopedia form. 
For some pm-poses, concise, exactly worded definitions are needed; for other purposes, more 
extended descriptions are required. This book seeks to satisfy both demands, and does it 
with considerable success. Complete, concise, and convenient. 682 pages. 393 illustra- 
tions. Twelfth edition. Price $3.00 

SWITCHBOARDS. By William Baxter, Jr. 

This book appeals to every engineer and electrician who wants to know the practical side of 
things. It takes up all sorts and conditions of dynamos, connections and circuits and shows 
by diagram #nd illustration just how the switchboard should be connected. Includes direct 
and alternating current boards, also those for arc lighting, incandescent, and power circuita. 
Special treatment on high voltage boards for power transmission. 2d Edition. 190 pages. 
Illustrated. Price 9l*60 

II 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLATION, WIRING, OPERATION AND 
MAINTENANCE. By W. H. Radcliffe and H. C. Gushing. 

This book gives the principles of construction gnd operation of both the Bell and Independent 
instruments ; approved methods of instalUng and wiring them ; the means of protecting them 
from lightning and abnormal currents; their connection together for operation as series or 
bridging stations ; and rules for their inspection and maintenance. Line wiring and the wir- 
ing and operation of special telephone systems are also treated. 

Intricate mathematics are avoided, and all apparatus, circuits and systems are thoroughly 
described. The appendix contains definitions of units and terms used in the text. Selected 
wiring tables, which are very helpful, are also included. . Among the subjects treated are 
Construction, Operation, and installation of Telephone Instruments, Inspection and Main- 
tenance of Telephone Instrmnents; Telephone Line Wiring; Testing Telephone Line Wires 
and Cables; Wiring and Operation of Special Telephone Systems, etc. 100 pages, 125 illus- 
trations $1.00 

WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY AND TELEPHONY SIMPLY EXPLAINED. 

By Alfred P. Morgan. 

This is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehensible treatises on the subject 
ever published, and a close study of its pages will enable one to master all the details of the 
wireless transmission of messages. The author has filled a long felt want and has succeeded 
in furnishing a lucid, comprehensible explanation in simple language of the theory and 
practice of wireless telegraphy and telephony. 

Among the contents are: Introductory; Wireless Transmission and Receptior< — The 
Aerial System, Earth Connections — The Transmitting Apparatus, Spark Coils and Trans- 
formers, Condensers, Helixes, Spark Gaps, Anchor Gaps, Aerial Switches — The Receiving 
Apparatus, Detectors, etc. — Tuning and Coupling, Tuning Coils, Loose Couplers, Variable 
Condensers, Directive Wave Systems — Miscellaneous Apparatus, Telephone Receivers, 
Range of Stations, Static, Interference — Wireless Telephones, Sound and Sound Waves, The 
Vocal Cords and Ear — Wireless Telephones, How Soimds are changed into Electric Waves — 
Wireless Telephones, The Apparatus — Summary. 200 pages. 150 engravings. Price $1.00 

WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK. By James Erskine-Murray. 

This work is free from elaborate details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which 
Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers and for those whose knowledge 
of electricity is slight. Chapters contained: How We Hear; Historical; The Conversion of 
Sound into Electric Waves; Wireless Transmission; The Production of Alternating Currents 
of High Frequency; How the Electric Waves are Radiated and Received; The Receiving 
Instruments; Detectors; Achievements and Expectations; Glossary of Technical Words, 
Cloth. Price $1.00 

WIRING A HOUSE. By Herbert Pratt. 

Shows a house already built; tells just how to start about wiring it; where to begin; what 
wire to use; how to run it according to Insurance Rules; in fact just the information you need. 
Directions apply equally to a shop. Fourth edition 25 cents 

FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC. 



MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIPMENT AND MANAGEMENT. 

By O. E. Perrigo, M.E. 

The only work published that describes the modern machine shop or manufacturing plant from 
the time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped. 
By a careful study of its thirty-two chapters the practical man may economically build, 
efficiently equip, and successfully manage the modern machine shop or manufacturing estab- 
ishment. Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection of modern shop buildings, 
the re-building and re-organization of old ones, or the introduction of modern shop methods, 
time and cost system. It is a book written and illustrated by a practical shop man for practical 
shop men who are too busy to read theories and want facts. It is the most complete all around 
book of its kind ever publish'^d. It is a practical book for practical men, from fne apprentice 
in the shop to the president in the office. It minutely describes and illustrates the most simple 
and yet the most eflacient time and cost system yet devised. Price $6.00 

12 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

FUEL 

COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. By Wm. M. Barr. 

This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the combus- 
tion of the common fuels found in the United States, and deals particularly with the condi- 
tions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous coals in Stationary 
and Locomotive Steam Boilers. 

The presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The arrangement 
of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended accurate answers, 
which describe in language, free from technicaUties, the several processes involved in the' 
furnace combustion of American fuels ; it clearly states the essential requisites for perfect 
combustion, and points out the best methods for furnace construction for obtaining thegreat« 
est quantity of heat from any given quality of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully Illustrated. 
Price ^ $1.00 

SMOKE PREVENTION AND FUEL ECONOMY. By Booth and Kershaw. 

A complete treatise for all interested in smoke prevention and combustion, being based on 
the German work of Ernst Schmatolla, but it is more than a mere translation of the German 
treatise, much being added. The authors show as briefly as possible the principles of fuel 
combustion, the methods which have been and are at present in use, as well as the proper 
scientific methods for obtaining ail the energy in the coal and burning it without smoice. 
Considerable space is also given to the examination of the waste gases, and several of the 
representative English and American mechanical stoker and similar appliances are described. 
The losses carried away in the waste gases are thoroughly analyzed and discussed in the Ap- 

Eendix, and abstracts are also here given of various patents on combustion apparatus. The 
ook is complete and contains much of value to all who have charge of large plants. 1W4 
pages. Illustrated. Price 92.60 

GAS ENGINES AND GAS 

GASOLINE ENGINES : THEIR OPERATION, USE AND CARE. By A. Hyatt 

Verrill. 

The Simplest, Latest and Most Comprehensive popular work published on Gasoline Engines 
describing what the GasoUne engine is ; its construction and operation ; how to install it ; 
how to select it; how to use it and how to remedy troubles encountered. Intended for owners, 
Operators and Users of GasoUne Motors of all kinds. This work fully describes and illus- 
trates the various types of Gasoline engines used in Motor Boats, Motor Vehicles and 
Stationary Work. The parts, accessories and Appliances are described, with chapters on 
ignition, fuel, lubrication, operation and engine troubles. Special attention is given to the 
care, operation and repair of motors with useful hints and suggestions on emergency re- 
pairs and make-shifts. A complete glossary of technical terms and an alphabetically ar- 
ranged table of troubles and their symptoms form most valuable and unique features of this 
manual. Nearly every illustration in the book is original, having been made by the author. 
Every page is full of interest and value. A book which you cannot afford to be without. 320 
pages. Nearly 150 specially made engravings. Price $1.60 

GAS, GASOLINE, AND OIL ENGINES. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

Just issued, 20th revised and enlarged edition. Every user of a gas engine needs this book. 
Simple, instructive, and right up-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Telia 
all about the running and management of gas, gasoline and oil engines, as designed and manu- 
factured in the United States. Explosive motors for stationary, marine and vehicle power are 
fully treated, together with illustrations of their parts and tabulated sizes, also their care and 
running are included. Electric ignition by induction coil and jump spark are fully explained 
and illustrated, including valuable information on the testing for economy and power and the 
erection of power plants. 

The rules and regulations of the Board of Fire Underwriters in regard to the installation an1 
management of gasoline motors is given in full, suggesting the safe installation of explosive 
motor power. A list of United States Patents issued on gas, gasoline, and oil engines and their 
adjuncts from 1875 to date is included. 484 pages. 410 engravings Price . . . $3.50 

MODERN GAS ENGINES AND PRODUCER GAS PLANTS. By R. E. Mathot, M.E. 

A guide for the gas engine designer, user, and engineer in the construction, selection, purchase 
installation, operation, and maintenttnce of gas engines. More than one book on gas engines 
has been written, but not one has thus far even encroached on the field covered by this book. 
Above all Mr. Mathot's work is a practical guide. Recognizing the need of a volume that 

13 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

would assist the gas engine user in understanding thoroughly the motor upon which he depends 
for power, the author has discussed his subject without the help of any mathematics and 
without elaborate theoretical explanations. Erery part of the gas engine is described in detail, 
tersely, clearly, with a thorough understanding of the requirements of the mechanic. Helpful 
suggestions as to the purchase of an enp:ine, its installation, care, and operation form a most 
\aluable feature of the work. 320 pa^cjs. 175 detailed illustrations. Price . . . $2.50 

GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, OR HOW TO BUILD A HALF-HORSE-POWER 

GAS ENGINE. By Parsell and Weed. 

A practical treatise of 300 pages describing the theory and principles of the action of Gas 
Engines of various types and the design and construction of a half-horse power Gas Engine, with 
illustrations of the work in actual progress, together with the dimensioned working drawings 
giving clearly the sizes of the various details; for the student, the scientific investigator and the 
amateur mechanic. 

Tnis book treats of the subject more from the standpoint of practice than that of theory. The 
principles of operation of Gas Engines are clearly and simply described and then the actual 
construction of a half-horse power engine is taken up, step by step, showing in detail the making 
of the Gas Engine. 3d Edition. 300 pages. Price $2.50 

THE GASOLINE ENGINE ON THE FARM: ITS OPERATION, REPAIR 

AND USES. By Xeno W. Putnam. 

This is a practical treatise on the Gasoline and Kerosene engine intended for the man who 
wants to know just how to manage his engine and how to apply it to all kinds of farm work 
to the best advantage. 

The book includes selecting the most suitable engine for farm work, its most convenient and 
eflBcient installation, with chapters on troubles, their remedies and how to avoid them. 
The care and management of the farm tractor in plowing, harrowing, harvesting and road 
grading are fully covered; also plain directions are given for handling the tractor on the road. 
Special attention is given to reUeving farm life of its drudgery by applying power to the 
disagreeable small tasks which must otherwise be done by hand. Many homemade con- 
trivances for cutting wood, supplying kitchen, garden and bam with water, loading, hauling 
and unloading hay, delivering grain to the bins or the feed trough are included; also full 
directions for making the engine milk the cows, churn, wash, sweep the house and clean the 
windows, etc. Very fully illustrated with drawings of working parts and cuts showing 
Stationary, Portable and Tractor Engines doing aU kinds of farm work. 300 pages. Nearly 
150 engravings. 12mo. Price $1.50 

CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H, M. Royles. 

This book covers points likely to arise in the ordinary course of the duties of the engineer or 
manager of a gas works not large enough to necessitate the employment of a separate chernical 
staff. It treats of the testing of the raw materials employed in the manufacture of illuminat- 
ing coal gas, and of the gas produced. The preparation of standard solutions is given as well 
as the chemical and physical examination of gas coal including among its contents — Prepa- 
rations of Standard Solutions, Coal, Furnaces, Testing and Regulation. Products of Car- 
bonization. Analysis of Crude Coal Gas. Analysis of Lime. Ammonia. Analysis of Oxide 
of Iron. Naphthalene. Analysis of Fire-Bricks and Fire-Clay. Weldom and Spent Oxide. 
Photometry and Gas Testing. Carburetted Water Gas. Metropolis Gas. Miscellaneous 
Extracts. Useful Tables $4.50 

GEARING AND CAMS 



BEVEL GEAR TABLES. By D. Ag. Engstrom. 

A book that will at once commend itself to mechanics and draftsmen. Does away with all 
the trigonometry and fancy figuring on bevel gears and makes it easy for anyone to lay them 
out or make them just right. There are 36 full-page tables that show every necessary dimen- 
sion for all sizes or combinations you're apt to need. No puzzling figuring or guessing. 
Gives placing distance, all the angles (including cutting angles), and the correct cutter to use. 
A copy of this prepares you for anything in the bevel gear line. 66 pages. , $1.00 

CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

A practical book for every designer, draftsman, and mechanic interested in the invention and 
development of the devices for feed changes on the different machines requiring such mechan- 
ism. All the necessary information on this subject is taken up, analyzed, classified, sifted, 
and concentrated for the use of busy men who have not the time to go through the masses 
of irrelevant matter with which such a subject is usually encumbered and select such infor- 
mation as will be useful to them. 

It shows just what has been done, how it has been done, when it was done, and who did it. 
It saves time in hunting up patent records and re-inventing old ideas. 88 pages. $1.00 

14 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 



DRAFTING OF CAMS. By Louis Rouillion. 

problem unless you 
any kind of cam yo 

HYDRAULICS 



The laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to go at it right. This puts 
you on the right road for practically any kind of cam you are likely to run up against. 25 cents 



HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

A treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all purposes. Including the 
measxirement of streams, the flow of water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power of falling 
water; turbine and impact water-wheels, wave motors, centrifugal, reciprocating, and air- 
lift pximps. With 300 flgm-es and diagrams and 36 practical tables. 

All who are interested In water-works development will find this book a useful one, because 
it is an entirely practical treatise upon a subject of present importance, and cannot fail in 
having a far-reaching influence, and for this reason should have a place in the working library 
of every engineer. Among the subjects treated are: Historical — Hydraulics, Properties of 
Water; Measurement of the flow of Streams; Flow from Subsurface orifices and nozzles; 
Flow of water in Pipes; Siphons of various kinds; Dams and Great Storage Reservoirs; 
City and Town Water Supply; Wells and their reenforcement; Air lift methods of raising 
water; artesian wells; Irrigation of Arid districts; Water Power, Water Wheels; Pumps and 
Pumping Machinery; Reciprocating Pumps; Hydraulic Power Transmission; Hydraulic 
Mining; Canals; Ditches; Conduits and Pipe Lines; Marine Hydraulics; Tidal and Sea 
Wave power, etc. 320 pages. Price $4.00 

ICE AND REFRIGERATION 



POCKET BOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND ICE MAKING. By A. J. Wallis- 
Taylor. 

This is one of the latest and most comprehensive reference books published on the subject of 
refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and refrigerating effect of the different 
fluids in use, the management of refrigerating machinery and the construction and insulation 
of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different degrees of cold ; freezing mixtures 
and non-freezing brines, temperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of provisions, cold storage 
charges for all classes of goods, ice making and storage of ice, data and memoranda for constant 
reference by refrigerating engineers, with nearly one hundred tables containing valuable 
references to every fact and condition required in the installment and operation of a refrigerat- 
ing plant. Illustrated. (5th Edition, revised.) Price $1.50 

INVENTIONS— PATENTS 

INVENTOR'S MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT PAY. 

This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in perfecting their inventions, taking out their 
patents and disposing of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's Circular, nor a 
Patent Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any description appear in the work. 
It is a book containing a quarter of a century's experience of a successful inventor, together 
with notes based upon the experience of many other inventors. 

Among the subjects treated in this work are: How to Invent. How to Secure a Good 
Patent. Value of Good Invention. How to exhibit an Invention. How to Interest 
Capital. How to Estimate the Value of a Patent. Value of Design Patents. Value of 
Foreign Patents. Value of Small Inventions. Advice on Selling Patents. Advice on the 
Formation of Stock Companies. Advice on the Formation of Limited Liability Companies. 
Advice on Disposing of Old Patents. Advice as to Patent Attorneys. Advice as to Selling 
Agents. Forms of Assignments. License and Contracts. State Laws Concerning Patent 
Rights. 1900 Census of the United States by covmties of over 10,000 population. Revised 
edition. 120 pages. Price $1.00 

KNOTS 

KNOTS, SPLICES AND ROPE WORK. By A. Hyatt Verrill. 

This is a practical book giving complete and simple directions for making all the most use- 
ful and ornamental knots in common use. with chapters on Splicing, Pointing, Seizing, 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Serving, etc. This book is fully illustrated with one hundred and fifty original engravings, 
which show how each knot, tie or spUce is formed and its appearance when finished. The 
book will be found of the greatest value to Campers, Yachtsmen, Travelers, Boy Scouts, 
in fact to anyone having occasion to use or handle rope or knots for any purpose. The book 
is thoroughly reliable and practical and is not only a guide but a teacher. It is the standard 
work on the subject. Among the contents are: 1. Cordage, Kinds of Rope. Construction 
of Rope, Parts of Rope Cable and Bolt Rope. Strength of Rope, Weight of Rope. 2. Sim- 
ple knots and Bends. Terms used in Handling Rope. Seizing Rope. 3. Ties and Hitches. 
4. Noose, Loops and Mooring Knots. 5. Shortenings, Grommets and Selvages. 6. Lash- 
ings. Seizings and Splices. 7. Fancy Knots and Rope Work. 128 pages. 150 original 
engravings. Price 60 cents 

LATHE WORK 

MODERN AMERICAN LATHE PRACTICE. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

This is a new book from cover to cover, and the only complete American work on the subject 
written by a man who knows not only how work ought to be done, but who also knows 
how to do it, and how to convey this knowledge to others. It is strictly up-to-date in its 
descriptions and illustrations, which represent the very latest practice in lathe and boring 
mill operations as well as the construction of and latest developments in the manufacture 
of these important classes of machine tools. 

Lathe history and the relations of the Lathe to manufacturing are given ; also a description 
of the various devices for Feeds and Thread Cutting mechanisms from early efforts in this 
direction to the present time. Lathe design is thoroughly discussed, including Back Gearing, 
Driving Cones. Thread Cutting Gears, and all the essential elements of the modern Lathe. 
The classification of Lathes is taken up. giving the essential differences of the several types 
of Lathes, including, as is usually understood. Engine Lathes, Bench Lathes, Speed Lathes, 
Forge Lathes, Gap Lathes, Pulley Lathes, Forming Lathes, Multiple Spindle Lathes, Rapid 
Reduction Lathes, Precision Lathes, Turret Lathes, Special Lathes, Electrically Driv^en 
Lathes, etc. 424 pages. 314 illustrations. Price $2.50 

PRACTICAL METAL TURNING. By Joseph G. Horner. 

This important and practical subject is treated in a full and exhaustive manner and nothing 
of importance is omitted. The principles and practice and all the different branches of Turn- 
ing are considered and well illustrated. All the different kinds of Chucks of usual forms, as 
well as some unusual kinds, are shown. A feature of the book is the important section de- 
voted to modern Turret practice; Boring is another subject which is treated fully; and the 
chapter on Tool Holders illustrates a large number of representative types. Thread Cutting 
is treated at reasonable length; and the last chapter contains a goorf deal of information 
relating to the High-Speed Steels and their work. The numerous tools used by machinists 
are illustrated, and also the adjuncts of the lathe. In fact, the enti.-e subject is treated in 
such a thorough manner as to make this book the standard one on ihe subject. It is indis- 
pensable to the manager, engineer, and machinist as well as to the student, amateur, and 
experimental, man who desires to keep up-to-date. 400 pages, fully illustiated. Price $3.50 

TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. BytFRED H. Colvin. 

There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way and one other. This treatise has to do with 
the right way; it tells you how to start the work properly, how to set the lathe, what tools to 
use and how to use them, and forty and one other little things that y m should know. Fourth 
edition 25 cents 

LIQUID AIR 

LIQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF GASES. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This book gives the history of the theory, discovery, and manufacture of Liquid Air, and 

tontains an illustrated description of all the experiments that have excited the wonder of 

audiences all over the country. It shows how liquid air, like water, is carried hundreds of 

miles and is handled in open buckets. It tells what may be expected from it in the near 

future. 

A book that renders simple one of the most perplexing chemical problems of the century. 

Startling developments illustrated by actual experiments. 

It is not only a work of scientific interest and authority, but is intended for the general reader, 

being written in a popular style — easily understood by every one. Second edition. 365 

pages. Price $2.00 

10 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 
LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING 

AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Robert H. Blackall. 

This book is a standard text book. It covers the Westinghouse Air-Brake Equipment, In- 
cluding the No. 5 and the No. 6 E. T Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick-Service) 
Triple Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump. The operation of all parts 
of the apparatus is explained in detail, and a practical way of finding their peculiarities and 
defects, with a proper remedy, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with their answers, 
which will enable any railroad man to pass any examination on the subject of Air Brakes. 
Endorsed and used by air-brake instructors and examiners on nearly every railroad in the 
United States. 25th Edition. 350 pages, fully illustrated with folding plates and dia- 
grams $2.00 

AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. By Fred. H. Colvin. 

The only book on compounds for the engineman or shopman that shows in a plain, practical 
way the various features of compound locomotives in use. Shows how they are made, what 
to do when they break down or balk. Contains sections as follows: — A Bit of History. The- 
ory of Compounding Steam Cylmders. Baldwin Two-Cylinder Compound. Pittsburg Two- 
Cylinder Compound. Rhode Island Compound. Richmond Compound. Rogers Compound. 
Schenectady Two-Cylinder Compound. Vauclain Compound. Tandem Compounds. Bald- 
win Tandem. The Colvin-Wightman Tandem. Schenectady Tandem. Balanced Loco- 
motives. Baldwin Balanced Compound, Plans for Balancing. Locating Blows. Break- 
downs. Reducing Valves, Drifting, Valve Motion, Disconnecting, Power of Compound 
Locomotives. Practical Notes, 

Fully illustrated ^and containing ten special "Duotone" inserts on heavy Plate Paper, show- 
ing different types of Compounds. 142 pages. Price $1.00 

APPLICATION OF HIGHLY SUPERHEATED STEAM TO LOCOMOTIVES. By 

Robert Garbe. 

A practical book. Contains special chapters on Generation of Highly Superheated Steam; 
Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder Simple Engine; Compounding and Superheating; 
Designs of J Locomotive Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives usmg Highly 
Superheated Steam; Experimental and Working Results. Illustrated with folding plate* 
and tables. Price $2.60 

COMBUSTION OF COAL AND. THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. 

By Wm. M, Barr. 

This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the combus- 
tion of the common fuels found in the United States, and deals particularly with the condi- 
tions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous coal in Stationary 
and Locomotive Steam Boilers, 

The presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The arrangement 
of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended acciu-ate answers, 
which describe in language, free from technicalities, the several processes involved in the 
furnace combustion of American fuels; it clearly states the essential requisites for perfect 
combustion, and points out the best methods of furnace construction for obtaining the 
greatest quantity of heat from any given quality of coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. 
Price $1.00 

DIARY OF A ROUND HOUSE FOREMAN. By T. S. Reilly . 

This is the greatest book of railroad experiences ever published. Containing a fund of infor- 
mation and suggestions along the line of handling men, organizing, etc., that one cannot afford 
to miss, 176 pages. Price $1.00 

LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By Fred H. Colvin, Associate 
Editor of "American Machinist." 

A handy book for the engineer or machinist that clears up the mysteries of valve setting. 
Shows the different valve gears in use, how they work, and why. Piston and slide valves 
of different types are illustrated and explained. A book that every raih-oad man in the mo- 
tive power department ought to have. Contains chapters on Locomotive Link Motion, 
Valve Movements, Setting Slide Valves, Analysis by Diagrams, Modern Practice, Slip of 
Block, Slide Valves, Piston Valves, Setting Piston Valves, Joy-Allen Valve Gear, Walschaert 
Valve Gear, Gooch Valve Gear, Alfree-Hubbell Valve Gear, etc, etc. Fully illustrated. 
Price 50 cents 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By Frank A. Kleinhans. 

The construction of boilers in general is treated, and following this, the locomotive boiler 
is taken up in the order in which its various parts go through the shop. Shows all types of 
boilers used: gives details of construction; practical facts, such as life of riveting, punches 
and dies; work done per day, allowance for bending and flanging sheets, and other data. 
Locomotive boilers present more difiBculty in laying out and building than any other type, 
and for this reason the author uses them as examples. Anyone who can handle them can 
tackle anything. 

Contains chapters on Laying Out Work; Flanging and Forging; Punching; Shearing; Plate 
Planing; General Tables; Finishing Parts; Bending; Machinery Parts; Riveting; Boiler 
Details; Smoke Box Details; Assembling and Calking; Boiler Shop Machinery, etc., etc. 
There isn't a man who has anything to do with boiler work, either new or repair work, who 
doesn't need this book. The manufacturer, superintendent, foreman, and boiler worker — 
all need it. No matter what the type of boiler, you'll find a mint of information that you 
wouldn't be without. Over 400 pages, five large folding plates. Price $3.00 

LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REMEDIES. By Geo. L. Fowler. 
Revised by Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor, Just issued. Revised pocket 
edition. 

It is out of the question to try and tell you about every subject that is covered in this pocket 
edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common troubles that an engineer 
may expect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected ones, troubles that could 
occur, but that you had never thought about, and you will find that they are all treated with 
the very best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear Troubles, Electric 
Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 294 
pages. 7th Revised Edition. Fully illustrated $1.00 

LOCOMOTIVE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 

The revised edition of "Locomotive Catechism," by Robert Grimshaw, is a New Book from 
Cover to Cover. It contains twice as many pages and double the number of illustrations ' 
of previous editions. Includes the greatest amount of practical information ever published 
on the construction and management of modern locomotives. Specially Prepared Chapters 
on the Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear, the Air Brake Equipment and the Electric Head 
Light are given. 

It commends itself at once to every Engineer and Fireman, and to all who are going in for 
examination or promotion. In plain language, with full complete answers, not only all the 
questions asked by the examining engineer are given, but those which the young and less 
experienced would ask the veteran, and which old hands ask as "stickers." It is a veritable 
Encyclopedia of the Locomotive, is entirely free from mathematics, easily understood and 
thoroughly up-to-date. Contains over 4,000 Examination Questions with their Answers. 
825 pages, 437 illustrations and three folding plates. 28th Revised Edition. . . $2.50 

PRACTICAL INSTRUCTOR AND REFERENCE BOOK FOR LOCOMOTIVE 
FIREMEN AND ENGINEERS. By Chas. F. Lockhart. 

An entirely new book on the Locomotive. It appeals to every railroad man, as it tells him 
how things are done and the right way to do them. Written by a man who has had years 
of practical experience in locomotive shops and on the road firing and running. The infor- 
mation given in this book cannot be found in any other similar treatise. Eight hundred and 
fifty-one questions with their answers are included, which will prove specially helpful to 
those preparing for examination. Practical information on: The Construction and Opera- 
tion of Locomotives. Breakdowns and their Remedies; Air Brakes and Valve Gears. 
Rules and Signals are handled in a thorough manner. As a book of reference it cannot be 
excelled. The book is divided into six parts, as follows: 1. The Fireman's Duties. 2. 
General description of the Locomotive. 3. Breakdowns and their Remedies. 4. Air Brakes. 
5. Extracts from Standard Rules. 6. Questions for examination. The 851 questions have 
been carefully selected and arranged. These cover the examinations required by the different 
railroads. 368 pages. 88 illustrations. Price $1.60 

PREVENTION OF RAILROAD ACCIDENTS, OR SAFETY IN RAILROADING. 

By George Bradshaw. 

This book is a heart-to-heart talk with Railroad Employees, dealing with facts, not theories, 
and showing the men in the ranks, from every-day experience, how accidents occur and how 
they may be avoided. The book is illustrated with seventy original photographs and draw- 
ings showing the safe and unsafe methods of work. No visionary schemes, no ideal pictures. 
Just plain facts and Practical Suggestions are given. Every railroad employee who reads the 

i8 



CATALOGUE OF' GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

book is a better and safer man to have in railroad service. It gives just the information 
which will be the means of preventing many injm'ies and deaths. All railroad employees 
should procure a copy, read it, and do your part in preventing accidents. 169 pages. Pocket 
Size. Fully illustrated. Price 50 cents 

TRAIN RULE EXAMINATIONS MADE EASY. By G. E. Collinqwood. 

This is the only practical work on train-rules in print. Every detail is covered, and puzzling 
points are explained in simple, comprehensive language, making it a practical treatise for 
the Train Dispatcher, Engineman, Trainman, and alJt'others who ha^^e to do with the move- 
ments of trains. Contains complete and reliable information of the Standard Code of Train 
Rules for single track. Shows Signals in Colors, as used on the difterent roads. Explains 
fully the practical application of train orders, giving a clear and definite understanding of all 
orders which may be used. The meaning and necessity for certain rules are explained in 
such a manner that the student may know beyond a doubt the rights conferred under any 
orders he may receive or the action required by certain rules. 

As nearly all roads require trainmen to pass regular examinations, a complete set of examina- 
tion questions, with their answers, are included. These will enable the student to pass the 
required examinations with credit to himself and the road for which he works. 256 pages. 
Fully illustrated with Train Signals in colors. Price $1.2& 

TRAIN RULES AND DESPATCHING. By H. A. Dalby. 

Every railroad man, no matter what department he's in, needs a copy of this book. It givefc 
the standard rules for both single and double track, shows all the signals, with colors wher- 
ever necessary, and has a list of towns where time changes, with a map showing the whole 
country. The rules are explained wherever tkere is any doubt about their meaning or where 
they are modified by different railroads. It's the only practical book on train rules in print. 
Over 220 pages. Leather cover. Price $1.50 

THE WALSCHAERT AND OTHER MODERN RADIAL VALVE GEARS FOR 
LOCOMOTIVES. By Wm. W. Wood. 

If you would thoroughly understand the Walschaert Valve Gear you should possess a copy 
of this book, as the author takes the plainest form of a steam engine — a stationary engine in 
the rough, that will only turn its crank in one direction — and from it builds up — with the 
reader's help — a modern locomotive equipped with the Walschaert Valve Gear, complete. 
The points discussed are clearly illustrated : two large folding plates that show the positions 
of the valves of both inside or outside admission type, as well as the links and other parts of 
the gear when the crank is at nine different points in its revolution, are especially valuable 
in making the movement clear. These employ sliding cardboard models which are contained 
in a pocket in the cover. 

The book is divided into five general divisions, as follows: I. Analysis of the gear. II. De- 
signing and erecting the gear. III. Advantages of the gear. IV. Questions and answers 
relating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. V. Setting valves with the Walschaert Valve Gear; 
the three primary types of locomotive valve motion ; modern radial valve gears other than 
the Walschaert; the Hobart All-free valve and valve gear, with questions and answers on 
breakdowns; the Baker-Pilliod valve gear; the Improved Baker-Pilliod Valve Gear, with 
questions and answers on breakdowns. 

The questions with full answers given will be especially valuable to firemen and engineers 
in preparing for an examination for promotion. 245 pages. Third Revised Edition. 
Price $1.50 

WESTINGHOUSE E— T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION POCKET BOOK. By Wm. 

W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. 

Here is a book for the railroad man, and the man who aims to be one. It is without doubt 
the only complete work published on the Westinghouse E-T Locomotive Brake Equipment. 
Written by an Air Brake Instructor who knows just what is needed. It covers the subject 
thoroughly. Everything about the New Westinghouse Engine and Tender Brake Equip- 
ment, including the Standard No. 5 and the Perfected No. 6 Style of brake, is treated in de- 
tail. Written in plain English and profusely illustrated with Colored Plates, which enable 
one to trace the flow of pressures throughout the entire equipment. The best book ever 
published on the Air Brake. Equally good for the beginner and the advanced engineer. 
Will pass any one through any examination. It informs and enlightens you on every point. 
Indispensable to every engineman and trainman. 

Contains examination questions and answers on the E-T equipment. Covering what the 
E-T Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when defective. Not a question can 
be asked of the engineman up for promotion on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E-T equipment 
that is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thoroughly understand the E-T 
equipment get a copy of this book. It covers every detail. Makes Air Brake troubles and 
examinations easy. Price $1.60 

»9 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE 

AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AND INTERCHANGEABLE MANUFACTURING. By 

J. V. WOODWORTH. 

A "shoppy" book, containing no theorizing, no problematical or experimental devices, there 
are no badly proportioned and impossible diagrams, no catalogue cuts, but a valuable collec- 
tion of drawings and descriptions of devices, the rich fruits of the author's own experience. 
In its 500-odd pages the one subject only. Tool Making, and whatever relates thereto, is 
dealt with. The work stands without a rival. It is a complete practical treatise on the 
art of American Tool Making and sysi em of interchangeable manufacturing as carried on 
to-day in the United States. In it are described and illustrated all of the different types 
and classes of small tools, fixtures, devices, and special appliances which are in general use 
in all machine manufacturing and metal working establishments where economy, capacity, 
and interchangeability in the production of machined metal parts are imperative. The 
science of jig making is exhaustively discussed, and particular attention is paid to drill jigs, 
boring, profiling and milling fixtures and other devices in which the parts to be machined 
are located and fastened within the contrivances. All of the tools, fixtures, and devices 
illustrated and described have been or are used for the actual production of work, such as 
parts of drill presses, lathes, patented machinery, typewriters, electrical apparatus, mechan- 
ical appliances, brass goods, composition parts, mould products, sheet metal articles, drop 
forgings, jewelry, watches, medals, coins, etc. 531 pages. Price $4.00 

HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL ENGINEERING AND ALLIED 

TRADES. Edited by Joseph G. Horner, A.M.I., M.E. 

This set of five volumes contains about 2,500 pages with thousands of illustrations, including 
diagrammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. This work covers the 
entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known expert in all branches 
of engineering have contributed to these volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted 
to the needs of the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the mechanical en- 
gineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent, foreman, and machinist. The work will be 
found a means of advancement to any progressive man. It is encyclopedic in scope, thorough 
and practical in its treatment of technical subjects, simple and clear in its descriptive matter, 
and without unnecessary technicalities or formulae. The articles are as brief as may be and 
yet give a reasonably clear and explicit statement of the subject, and are written by men who 
have had ample practical experience in the matters of which they write. It tells you all you 
want to know about engineering and tells it so simply, so clearly, so concisely, that one cannot 
help but understand. As a work of reference it is without a peer. $6.00 per volume. For 
complete set of five volumes, price $25.00 

MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-Cheney. 

This is an arithmetic of the things you have to do with daily. It tells you plainly about: how 
to find areas of figures; how to find surface or volume of balls or spheres; handy ways for 
calculating; about compound gearing; cutting screw threads on any lathe; drilling for taps; 
speeds of drills, taps, emery wheels, grindstones, milling cutters, etc.; all about the Metric 
system with conversion tables; properties of metals; strength of bolts and nuts; decimal 
equivalent of an inch. All sorts of machine shop figuring and 1,001 other things, any one of 
v/hich ought to be worth more than the price of this book to you, and it saves you the trouble 
of bothering the boss. 6th Edition. 131 pages. Price 50 cents 

MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIPMENT AND MANAGEMENT. 
By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

The only work published that describes the Modern Machine Shop or Manufacturing Plant from 
tne time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped. 
Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection of modern shop buildings, the re- 
building and reorganization of old ones, or the introduction of Modern Shop Methods, time and 
cost systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a practical shop man for practical shop 
men who are too busy to read theories and want facts. It is the most complete all-around 
book of its kind ever published. 400 large quarto pages. 225 original and specially-made 
illustrations. Price $5.00 

MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS AND NOVELTIES 

OF CONSTRUCTION. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is a supplementary volume to the one upon mechanical movements. Unlike the first 
volume, which is more elementary in character, this volume contains illustrations and descrip- 
tions of many combinations of motions and of mechanical devices and appliances found in 
different lines of machinery. Each device being shown bv a line drawing with a description 

20 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



showing its working parts and the method of operation. From the multitude of devices de- 
scribed, and illustrated, might be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors and elevators, 
Prony brakes, thermometers,! various types of boilers, solar engines, oil-fuei burners, condensers, 
evaporators, Corliss and other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of various 
descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, automobile and motor bicycles, railway block 
signals, car couplers, link and gear motions, ball bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy 
guns, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance. 1,000 specially made engrav- 
ings. 396 octavo pages. Price $2.50 

MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DEVICES. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is a collection of 1,890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, accom- 
panied by appropriate text, making it a book of great value to the inventor, the draftsman, 
and to all readers with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into eighteen sections or 
chapters in which the subject matter is classified under the following heads: Mechanical Powers; 
Transmission of Power; Measurement of Power, Steam Power; Air Power Appliances ; Electric 
Power and Construction, Navigation and Roads; Gearing; Motion and Devices; Controlling 
Motion; Horological; Mining; Mill and Factory Appliances; Construction and Devices; 
Drafting Devices : Miscellaneous Devices, etc. 12th edition. 400 octavo pages. Price $2.50 

MACHINE SHOP TOOLS AND SHOP PRACTICE. By W. H. Vandervoort. 

A work of 555 pages and 673 illustrations, describing in every detail the construction, operation, 
and manipulation of both hand and machine tools. Includes chapters on filing, fitting, and 
scraping surfaces ; on drills, reamers, taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, shapers, 
and their tools; milling machines and cutters ; gear cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines 
and drill work; grinding machines and their work; hardening and tempering; gearing, belting 
and transmission machinery : useful data and tables. 6th edition. Price . . . , $8.00 

THE MODERN MACHINIST. By John T. Usher. 

This is a book showing, by plain description and by profuse engravings, made expressly for 
the work, all that is best, most advanced, and of the highest eflBciency in modern machine 
shop practice, tools, and implements, showing the way by which and through which, as Mr. 
Maxim says, "American machinists have become and are the finest mechanics in the world." 
Indicating as it does, in every line, the familiarity of the author with every detail of daily 
experience in the shop, it cannot fail to be of service to any man practically -connected with 
the shaping or finishing of metals. 

There is nothing experimental or visionary about the book, all devices being in actual use 
and giving good results. It might be called a compendium of shop methods, showing a vari- 
ety of special tools and appliances which will give new ideas to many mechanics, from the 
superintendent down to the man at the bench. It will be found a valuable addition to any 
machinist's library, and should be consulted whenever a new or difficult job is to be done, 
whether it is boring, milling, turning, or planing, as they are all treated in a practical manner. 
Fifth Edition. 320 pages. 250 illustrations. Price ... $2.50 

MODERN MILLING MACHINES: THEIR DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION AND OPERA- 
TION. By Joseph G. Horner. 

This book describes and illustrates the Milling Machine and its work in such a plain, clear, 
and forceful manner, and illustrates the subject so clearly and completely, that the up-to-date 
machinist, student, or mechanical engineer cannot afford to do without the valuable infor- 
mation which it contains. It describes not only the early machines of this class, but notes 
their gradual development into the splendid machines of the present day, giving the design 
and construction of the various types, forms, and special features produced by prominent 
manufacturers, American and foreign. 

Milling cutters in all their development and modernized forms are illustrated and described, 
and the operations they are capable of producing upon different classes of work are carefully 
described in detail, and the speeds and feeds necessary are discussed, and valuable and useful 
data given for determining these usually perplexing problems. The book is the most compre- 
hensive work published on the subject. 304 pages. 300 illustrations. Price . . $4.00 

" SHOP KINKS." By Robert Grimshaw. 

A book of 400 pages and 222 illustrations, being entirely different frorA any other book on 
machine shop practice. Departing from conventional style, the author avoids universal or 
common shop usage and limits his work to showing special ways of doing things better, more 
cheaply and more rapidly than usual. As a result tne advanced methods of representative 
establishments of the world are placed at the disposal of the reader. This book shows the 
proprietor where large savings are possible, and how products may be improved. To the 
employee it holds out suggestions that, properly applied, will hasten his advancement. No 
shop can afford to be without it. It bristles with valuable wrinkles and helpful suggestions. 
It will benefit all, from apprentice to proprietor. Every machinist, at any age, should study 
its pages. Fifth Edition. Price $2.50 

21 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 

THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. By Colvin and Stabel. 

This clears up many of the mysteries of thread-cutting, such as double and triple threads, 
internal threads, catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints and several 
tables. 3rd Edition. Price 25 cents 

TOOLS FOR MACHINISTS AND WOOD WORKERS, INCLUDING INSTRUMENTS 
OF MEASUREMENT. By Joseph G. Horner. 

The principles upon which cutting tools for wood, metal, and other substances are made are 
identical, whether used by the machinist, the carpenter, or by any other skilled mechanic in 
their daily work, and the object of this book is to give a correct and practical description of 
these tools as they are commonly designed, constructed, and used. 340 pages, fully illustrated. 
Price $3.50 

MANUAL TRAINING 



ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By Louis Rouillion. 

The only book published that gives just the information needed by all interested in Manual 
Training, regarding Buildings, Equipment, and Supplies. Shows exactly what is needed for 
all grades of the work from the Kindergarten to the High and Normal School. Gives item- 
ized lists of everything used in Manual Training Work and tells just what it ought to cost. 
Also shows where to buy supplies, etc. Contains 174 pages, and is fully illustrated. 
2nd Edition. Price $1.50 

MARINE ENGINEERING 



MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS, THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION. By 

Dr. G. Bauer, Leslie S. Robertson, and S. Bryan Donkin. 

in the words of Dr. Bauer, the present work owes its origin to an oft felt want of a Condensed 
Treatise, . embodying the Theoretical and Practical Rules used in Designing Marine Engines 
and Boilers. The need for such a work has been felt by most engineers engaged in the con- 
struction and working of Marine Engines, not only by the younger men, but also by those of 
greater experience. The fact that the original German work was written by the chief engineer 
of the famous Vulcan Works, Stettin, is in itself a guarantee that this book is in all respects 
thoroughly up-to-date, and that it embodies all the information which is necessary for the 
design and construction of the highest types of marine engines and boilers. It may be said, 
that the motive power which Dr. Bauer has placed in the fast German liners that have been 
turned out of late years from the Stettin Works, represent the very best practice in marine 
engineering of the present day. 

This work is clearly written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically sound; while the character 
of its plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without reproach. The illustrations are care- 
ful reproductions from actual working drawings, with some well-executed photographic views 
of completed engines and boilers. 744 pages. 550 illustrations and numerous tables. 

$9.00 net 

MODERN SUBMARINE CHART. 

A cross-section view, showing clearly and distinctly all the interior of a Submarine of the 
latest type. You get more information from this chart, about the construction and operation 
of a Submarine, than in any other way. No Details omitted — everything is accurate and to 
scale. It is absolutely correct in every detail, having been approved by Naval Engineers. 
All the machinery and devices fitted in a modern Submarine Boat are shown and to make the 
engraving more readily understood all the features are shown in operative form with Officers 
and Men in the act of performing the duties assigned to them in service conditions. This 
CHART IS REALLY AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OF A SUBMARINE. It Is educational 
and worth many times its cost. Mailed in a Tube for 25 cents 

MINING 

ORE DEPOSITS, WITH A CHAPTER ON HINTS TO PROSPECTORS. By J. P. 

Johnson 

This book gives a condensed account of the ore-deposits at present known in South Africa. 
It is also intended as a guide to the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology 
and some mining experience are necessary in order to understand this work. With these 
qualifications, it will materially assist one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences 

22 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

and, so far as simple- ores are concerned, should enable one to form some idea of the possi- 
bilities of any he may find. 

Among the chapters given are: Titaniferous and Chromiferous Iron Oxides — Nickel — Cop- 
per — Cobalt — Tm — Molybdenum — Tungsten — Lead — Mercury — Antimony — Iron — Hints to 
Prospectors. $2.00 

PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY OF MINING. By T. H. Byrom. 

A practical work for the use of all preparing for examinations in mining or qualifying for 
colliery managers' certificates. The aim of the author in this excellent book is to place clearly 
before the reader useful and authoritative data which will render him valuable assistance in 
his studies. The only work of its kind published. The information incorporated in it will 
prove of the greatest practical utility to students, mining engineers, colliery managers, and 
all others who are specially interested in the present-day treatment of mining problems. 
Among its contents are chapters on: The Atmosphere; Laws Relating to the Behavior of 
Gases; The Diffusion of Gases; Composition of the Atmosphere: Sundry Constituents of the 
Atmosphere; Water; Carbon; Fire-Damp ; Combustion; Coal Dust and Its Action; Ex- 
plosives; Composition of Various Coals and Fuels; Methods of Analysis of Coal; Strata Ad- 
joining the Coal Measures; Magnetism and Electricity; Appendix; Useful Tables, etc.; 
Miscellaneous Questions. 160 pages. Illustrated $2.00 

PRACTICAL COAL MINING. By T. H. Cockin. 

An important work, containing 428 pages and 213 illustrations, complete with practical de- 
tails, which will intuitively impart to the reader, not only a general knowledge of the princi- 
ples of coal mining, but also considerable insight into allied subjects. This treatise is posi- 
tively up to date in every instance, and should be in the hands of every colliery engineer, 
geologist, mine operator, superintendent, foreman, and all others who are interested in or 
connected with the industry. 2nd Edition $2.50 

PATTERN MAKING 



PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. Barrows. 

This is a very complete and entirely practical treatise on the subject of pattern making, illus- 
trating pattern work in wood and metal. From its pages you are taught just what you shoixld 
know about pattern making. It contains a detailed description of the materials used by 
pattern makers, also the tools, both those for hand use, and the more interesting machine 
tools; having complete chapters on the band saw, The Buzz Saw, and the Lathe. Individual 
patterns of many different kinds are fully illustrated and described, and the mounting of 
metal patterns on plates for molding machines is included. 

Rviles, Formvilas and Tables are included, containing simple and original methods for finding 
the weight of castings, both from the pattern itself and from the drawings. This section 
contains some new and practical formulas, which will be found very useful in estimating 
weights, with the accuracy required for quotations to prospective customers. All of these 
rules are simple, and can be put to practical use by the ordinary, every-day man, and they 
have been proved by years of actual use. 

Plain rules for keeping down the cost of patterns, with a complete system for checking the 
cost of and marking the patterns, and a card record showing what the pattern is, material 
used, where located in safe, with its cost and date of production, is included. The book closes 
with an original and practical method for the inventory and valuation of patterns. Con- 
taining 326 pages and 150 detailed illustrations. Price $2.00 

PERFUMERY 

HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RECEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PRO- 
CESSES. Edited by G. D. Hiscox. 

The most valuable Techno-chemical Receipt Book published. Contains over 10,000 practical 
receipts; many of which will prove of special value to the perfumer, a mine of information, up- 
to-date m every respect. Price, Cloth, $3.00; half morocco $4.00 

PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. By G. W. Askinson, Perfumer. 
A comprehensive treatise, in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of value 
to the Perfumer. Complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, 
sachets, fumigating pastilles: preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cos- 
metics, hair dyes and other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description of aromatic 
substances: their nature, tests of purity, and wholesale manufacture. A book of general, 
as well as professional interest, meeting the wants not only of the druggist and perfume man- 
ufacturer, but also of the general public. Third edition. 312 pages. Illustrated. . $8.00 

23 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

PLUMBING 

MECHANICAL DRAWING FOR PLUMBERS. By R. M. Starbuck. 
A concise, comprehensive and practical treatise on the subject of mechanical drawing in its 
various modern applications to the work of all who are in any way connected with *he 
plumbing trade. Nothing will so help the plumber in estimating and in explaining work to 
customers and workmen as a knowledge of drawing, and to the workman it is of inestimable 
value if he is to rise above his position to positions of greater responsibility. Among the 
chapters contained are: 1. Value to plumber of knowledge of drawing; tools required 
and their use; common views needed in mechanical drawing. 2. Perspective versus mechan- 
ical drawing in showing plumbing construction. 3. Correct and incorrect methods in 
plumbing drawing; plan and elevation explained. 3. Floor and cellar plans and elevation; 
scale drawings; use of triangles. 5. Use of triangles; drawing of fittings, traps, etc. 6. 
Drawing plumbing elevations and fittings. 7. Instructions in drawing plumbing elevations. 
8. The drawing of plumbing fixtures ; scale drawings. 9. Drawing of fixtures and fittings. 
10. Inking of drawings. 11. Shading of drawings. 12. Shading of drawings. 13. Sec- 
tional drawings; drawing of threads. 14. Plumbing elevations from architect's plan. 
15. Elevations of separate parts of the plumbing system. 16. Elevations from architect's 
plans. 17. Drawing of detail plumbing connections. 18. Architect's plans and plumbing 
elevations of residence. 19. Plumbing elevations of residence (continued) ; plumbing plans 
for cottage. 20. Plumbing elevations; roof connections. 21. Plans and plumbing eleva- 
tions for six-flat building. 22. Drawing of various parts of the plumbing system; use of 
scales. 23. Use of architect's scales. 24. Special features in the illustrations of country 
plumbing. 25. Drawing of wrought iron piping, valves, radiators, coils, etc. 26. Drawing 
of piping to illustrate heating systems. 150 illustrations. Price $1.60 

MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. By R. M. Starbuck. 

This book represents the highest standard of plumbing work. It has been adopted and used 
as a reference book by the United States Government, in its sanitary work in Cuba, Porto 
Rico, and the Pliilippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United States and 
Canada. 

It gives connections, sizes and working data for all fixtures and groups of fixtures. It is 
helpful to the master plumber in demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It 
gives the mechanic and student quick and easy access to the best modern plumbing practice. 
Suggestions for estimating plumbing construction are contained in its pages. This book 
represents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice, and should be in the hands of 
every architect, sanitary engineer and plumber who wishes to keep himself up to the minute 
on this important feature of construction. Contains following chapters, each illustrated 
with a full-page plate: Kitchen sink, laundry tubs, vegetable wash sink; lavatories, 
pantry sinks, contents of marble slabs; bath tub, foot and sitz bath, shower bath; water 
closets, venting of water closets ; low-down water closets, water closets operated by fiush 
valves, water closet range; slop sink, urinals, the bidet; hotel and restavu-ant sink, grease 
trap; refrigerators, safe wastes, laimdry waste; Unes of refrigerators, bar sinks, soda foun- 
tain sinks; horse stall, frost-proof water closets; connections for S traps, venting; con- 
nections for drum traps; soil pipe connections; supporting of soil pipe; main trap and 
fresh air inlet; fioor drains and cellar drains, subsoil drainage; water closets and floor 
connections; local venting; connections for bath rooms; connections for bath rooms, con- 
tinued; connections for bath rooms, continued; connections for bath rooms, continued; 
examples of poor practice; roughing- work ready for test; testing of plumbing system; 
method of continuous venting ; continuous venting for two-floor work ; continuous venting 
for two lines of fixtures on three or more floors ; continuous venting of water closets ; plumb- 
ing for cottage house; construction for cellar piping; plumbing for residence, use of special 
fittings; plumbing for two-flat house; plumbing for apartment building; plumbing for 
double apartment building; plumbing for office building; plumbing for public toilet rooms; 
pliunbing for pubUc toilet rooms, continued; plumbing for bath establishment; plumbing 
for engine house, factory plumbing; automatic flushing for schools, factories, etc.; use of 
flushing valves; urinals for public toilet rooms; the Durham system, the destruction of 
pipes by electrolysis; construction of work without use of lead; Automatic sewage lift, 
automatic sump tank; coimtry plumbing; construction of cesspools; septic tank and auto- 
matic sewage siphon; country plumbing; water supply for country house; thawing of 
water mains and service by electricity; double boilers; hot water supply of large build- 
ings ; automatic control of hot water tank ; suggestions for estimating plumbing construc- 
tion. 400 octavo pages, fully illustrated by 55 full-page engravings. Price . $4.00 

STANDARD PRACTICAL PLUMBING. By R. M. Starbuck. 

A complete practical treatise of 450 pages covering the subject of Modem Plximbing 
in all its branches, a large amount of space being devoted to a very complete and practical 
treatment of the subject of Hot Water Supply and Circulation and Range Boiler Work. 
Its thirty chapters include about every phase of the subject one can thiaJc of, making it 

24 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

an indispensable work to the master plumber, the journeyman plumber, and the apprentice 
plumber, containing chapters on: the plumber's tools; wiping solder, composition and use; 
joint wiping; lead worlc; traps; siphonage of traps; venting; continuous venting; house 
sewer and sewer connections; house drain; soil piping, roughing; main trap and fresh air 
inlet; floor, yard, cellar drains, rain leaders, etc. ; fixture wastes ; water closets ; ventilation; 
improved plumbing connections; residence plumbing; plumbing for hotels, schools, fac- 
tories, stables, etc.; modern country plumbing; filtration of sewage and water supply; 
hot and cold supply; range boilers; circulation; circulating pipes; range boiler problems; 
hot water for large buildings; water lift and its use; multiple connections for hot water 
boilers; heating of radiation by supply system; theory for the plumber; drawing for the 
plimiber. Fully illustrated by 347 engravings. Price $3.00 

RECEIPT BOOK 



HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RECEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PRO- 
CESSES. Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. 

The most valuable Techno-chemical Receipt Boole published, including over 10,000 selected 
scientific, chemical, technological, and practical receipts and processes. 

This is the most complete Book of Receipts ever published, giving thousands of receipts for 
the manufacturer of valuable articles for everyday use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas, and 
Secret Processes are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of the useful arts and 
tells thousands of ways of making money and is just the book everyone should have at his 
command. 

Modern in its treatment of every subject that properly falls within its scope, the book may 
truthfully be said to present the very latest formulas to be found in the arts and industries 
and to retain those processes wliich long experience has proven worthy of a permanent record. 
To present here even a limited number of the subjects which find a place in this valuable 
work would be difiicult. Suffice to say that in its pages will be foimd matter of intense in- 
terest and immeasurable practical value to the scientific amateiu" and to him who wishes to 
obtain a knowledge of the many processes used ia the arts, trades and manufactures, a 
knowledge wtiich will render his pursuits more instructive and remunerative. Serving as a 
reference book to the small and large manufactm-er and suppplying intelligent seekers with 
the information necessary to conduct a process, the work will be found of inestimable worth 
to the Metallurgist, the Photographer, the Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of 
Glues, Pastes, Cements, and Mucilages, the Compounder of Alloys, the Cook, the Physician, 
the Druggist, the Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman, the Machinist, 
the Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner, the Chiropodist, the Manicure, the Manufacturer 
of Chemical Novelties and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater, the Enameler, 
the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass '^''orker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker, the Jew- 
eler, the Hat Maker, the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairyman, the 
Paper Maker, the Wood and Metal Worker, the Chandler and Soap Maker, the Veterinary 
Surgeon, and the Technologist in general. 

A mine of information, and up-to-date in every respect. A book which will prove of value 
to EVERYONE, as it covers every branch of the Useful Arts. 800 pages. Price $3.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 



"Your Twentieth Century Book of Receipts, Formulas and Processes duly received. I am 
glad to have a copy of it, and if I could not replace it money couldn't buy it. It is the best 
tiling of the sort I ever saw." (Signed) M. E. Trux, 

Soarta, Wis. 
' There are few persons who would not be able to find in the book some single formula that 
would repay several times the cost of the book." — Merchant's Record and Show Window. , 

RUBBER 



RUBBER HAND STAMPS AND THE MANIPULATION OF INDIA RUBBER. By 
T. O'CoNOR Sloane. 

This book gives full details on all points, treating in a concise and simple manner the elements 
of nearly everything it is necessary to understand for a commencement in any branch of the 
India Rubber Manufacture. The making of all kinds of Rubber Hand Stamps, Small Articles 
of India Rubber, U. S. Government Composition, Dating Hand Stamps, the Manipulation 
of Sheet Rubber, Toy Balloons, India Rubber Solutions, Cements, Blackings, Renovating 

2K 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber Shoes, etc.; the Hektograph Stamp Inks, and 
Miscellaneous Notes, with a Short Account of the Discovery, Collection, and Manufacfrure of 
India Rubber are set forth in a manner designed to be readily understood, the explanations 
being plain and simple. Including a chapter on Rubber Tire Making and Vulcanizing; also u 
chapter on the uses of rubber in Surgery and Dentistry. Third revised and enlarged edition. 
175 pages. Illustrated $1.00 

SAWS 



SAW FILINGS AND MANAGEMENT OF SAWS. By Robert Grimshaw. 

A practical hand book on filing, gumming, swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band saws, 
the speed, work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A handy book for those who have charge 
of saws, or for those mechanics who do their own filing, as it deals with the proper shape and 
pitches of saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints and rules for gumming, eetting, 
and filing, and is a practical aid to those who use saws for any purpose. New edition, revisedi 
and enlarged. Illustrated. Price $1.00 

STEAM ENGINEERING 

AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. By W. E. Crane. 

This book begins at the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. A plain talk on 
every-day work about engines, boilers, and their accessories. It is not intended to be scien- 
tific or mathematical. All formulas are in simple form so that any one understanding plain 
arithmetic can readily understand any of them. The author has made this the most prac- 
tical book in print; has given the results of his years of experience, and has included about 
all that has to do with an engine room or a power plant. You are not left to guess at a single 
point. You are shown clearly what to expect under the various conditions ; how to secxire 
the best results; ways of preventing "shut downs" and repairs; in short, all that goes to 
make up the requirements of a good engineer, capable of taking charge of a plant. It's plain 
enough for practical men and yet of value to those high in the profession. 

.\ partial list of contents is: The boiler room, cleaning boilers, firing, feeding; pumps; 
jispection and repair; chimneys, sizes and cost; piping; mason work; foundations; testing 
cement; pile driving; engines, slow and high speed ; valves; valve setting ; Corliss engines, 
setting valves, single and double eccentric; air pumps and condensers; different types of 
condensers; water needed; lining up; pounds; pins not square in crosshead or crank; 
engineers' tools ; pistons and piston rings ; bearing metal ; hardened copper ; drip pipes from 
cylinder jackets; belts, how made, care of; oils; greases; testing lubricants; rules and 
tables, including steam tables; areas of segments; squares and square root; cubes and cube 
root; areas and circumferences of circles. Notes on: Brick work; explosions; pumps; 
pump valves; heaters, economizers; safety valves ; lap, lead, and clearance. Has a complete 
examination for a license, etc., etc. Second edition. 285 pages. Illustrated. Price . $2.00 

EMINENT ENGINEERS. By Dwight Goddard. 

Everyone who appreciates the effect of such great inventions as the Steam Engine, Steamboat, 
Locomotive, Sewing Machine, Steel Working, and other fundamental discoveries, is interested 
in knowing a little about the men who made them and their achievements. 

Mr. Goddard has selected thirty-two of the world's engineers who have contributed most 
largely to the advancement of our civilization by mechanical means, giving only such facts as 
are of general interest and in a way which appeals to all, whether mechanics or not. 280 
pages. 35 illustrations. Price $1.50 

ENGINE RUNNER'S CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 

A practical treatise for the stationary engineer, telling how to erect, adjust and run the prin- 
cipal steam engines in use in the United States. Describing the principal features of various 
special and well-known makes of engines: Temper Cut-off, Shipping and Receiving Founda- 
tions, Erecting and Starting, Valve Setting, Care and Use, Emergencies, Erecting and Ad- 
justing Special Engines. 

The questions asked throughout the catechism are plain and to the point, and the answers 
are given in such simple language as to be readily understood by anyone. All the instructions 
given are complete and up-to-date; and they are written in a popular style, without any 
technicalities or mathematical formulre. The work is of a handy size for the pocket, clearly 
and well printed, nicely bound, and profusely illustrated. To young engineers this catechism 

26 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



will be of great value, especially to those who may be preparing to go forward to be examined 
for certificates of competency; and to engineers generally it will be of no little service, as they 
will find in this volume more really practical and useful information than is to be found any- 
where else within a like compass. 387 pages. Seventh edition. Price .... $2.00 

ENGINE TESTS AND BOILER EFFICIENCIES. By J. Buchetti. 

This work fully describes and illustrates the method of testing the power of steam engines, 
turbines and explosive motors. The properties of steam and the evaporative power of fuels'. 
Combustion of fuel and chimney draft; with formulas explained or practically computed 
255 pages, 179 illustrations $3.00 

HORSEPOWER CHART. 

Shows the horsepower of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the 
cylinder diameter of stroke; the steam pressure or cut off; the revolutions, or whether con- 
densing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calcu- 
lations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents 

MODERN STEAM ENGINEERING IN THEORY AND PRACTICE. By Gardner 
D. Hiscox. 

This is a complete and practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and firemen dealing 
with the care and management of boilers, engines, pumps, superheated steam, refrigerating 
machinery, dynamos, motors, elevators, air compressors, and all other branches with which 
the modern engineer must be familiar. Nearly 200 questions with their answers on steam 
and electrical engineering, likely to be asked by the Examining Board, are included. 
Among the chapters are: Historical; steam and its properties; appliances for the genera- 
tion of steam; types of boilers; chimney and its work; heat economy of the feed water; 
steam pumps and their work ; incrustation and its work ; steam above atmospheric pressure ; 
flow of steam from nozzles; superheated steam and its work; adiabatic expansion of steam; 
indicator and its work; steam engine proportions; slide valve engines and valve motion; 
Corliss engine and its valve gear; compound engine and its theory; triple and multiple 
expansion engine, steam turbine; refrigeration; elevators and their management; cost 
of power; steam engine troubles; electric power and electric plants. 487 pages. 405 en- 
gravings. Price $8.00 

STEAM ENGINE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 

This unique volume of 413 pages is not only a catechism on the question and answer princi- 
ple; but it contains formulas and worked-out answers for all the Steam problems that apper- 
tain to the operation and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations of various valves 
and valve gear with their principles of operation are given. Thirty-four Tables that are 
indispensable to every engineer and fireman that wishes to be progressive and is ambitious to 
become master of his calling are within its pages. It is a most valuable instructor in the 
service of Steam Engineering. Leading engineers have recommended it as a valuable educa- 
tor for the beginner as well as a reference book for the engineer. It is thoroughly indexed 
for every detail. Every essential question on the Steam Engine with its answer is contained 
in this valuable work. Sixteenth edition. Price $2.00 

STEAM ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-Cheney. 

A practical pocket book for the steam engineer. Shows how to work the problems of the 
engine room and shows "why." Tells how to figure horse-power of engines and boilers; area 
of boilers ; has tables of areas and circumferences ; steam tables ; has a dictionary of engineering 
terms. Puts you on to all all of the little kinks in figuring whatever there is to figure around 
a power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute zero; adiabatic expansion; duty ol 
engines; factor of safety; and 1,001 other things; and everything is plain and simple — not 
the hardest way to figure, but the easiest. 2nd Edition 50 cents 

STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION 



PRACTICAL STEAM, HOT- WATER HEATING AND VENTILATION. By A. G. 

King. 

This book is the standard and latest work published on the subject and has been prepared for 
the use of all engaged in the Dusiness of steam, hot water heating, and ventilation. It is an 
original and exhaustive work. Tells how to get heating contracts, how to install heating and 
ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, with "Tricks of the Trade" for 

27 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



shop use. Rules and data for estimating radiation and cost and such tables and information 
as make it an indispensable work for everyone interested in steam, hot water heating, and venti- 
lation. It describes all the principal systems of steam, hot water, vacuum, vapor, and vacuum- 
vapor heating, together with the new accelerated systems of hot water circulation, including 
chapters on up-to-date methods of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heating and 
ventilation. Containing chapters on: I. Introduction. II. Heat. III. Evolution of 
artificial heating apparatus. IV. Boiler surface and settings. V. The chimney flue. VI. 
Pipe and fittings. VII. Valves, various kinds. VIII. Forms of radiating surfaces. IX. 
Locating of radiating surfaces. X. Estimating radiation. XI. Steam-heating apparatus. 
XII. Exhaust-steam heating. XIII. Hot-water heating. XIV. Pressure systems of hot- 
water work. XV. Hot-water appliances. XVI. Greenhouse heating. XVII. Vacuum 
vapor and vacuum exhaust heating. XVIII. Miscellaneous heating. XIX. Radiator and 
pipe connections. XX. Ventilation. XXI. Mechanical ventilation and hot-blast heating. 
XXII. Steam appliances. XXIII. District heating. XXIV. Pipe and boiler covering. 
XXV. Temperature regulation and heat control. XXVI. Business methods. XXVII. 
Miscellaneous. XXVIII. Rules, tables and useful information. 367 pages. 300 detailed 
engravings. Price $3.00 

STEAM PIPES 

STEAM PIPES: THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION. By Wm. H. Booth. 

The work is well illustrated in regard to pipe joints, expansion offsets, flexible joints, and 
self-contained sliding joints for taking up the expansion of long pipes. In fact, the chapters 
on the flow of steam and expansion of pipes are most valuable to all steam fitters and users. 
The pressure strength of pipes and method of hanging them are well treated and illustrated. 
Valves and by-passes are fully illustrated and described, as are also flange joints and their 
proper proportions, exhaust heads and separators. One of the most valuable chapters is that 
on superheated steam and the saving of steam by insulation with the various kinds of felt- 
ing and other materials with comparison tables of the loss of heat in thermal units from naked 
and felted steam pipes. Contains 187 pages. Price $2.00 

STEEL 

AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. By E. R. Markham. 

This book tells how to select, and how to work, temper, harden, and anneal steel for everything 
on earth. It doesn't tell how to temper one class of tools and then leave the treatment of 
another kind of tool to your imagination and judgment, but it gives careful instructions for 
every detaU of every tool, whether it be a tap, a reamer or just a screw-driver. It tells about 
the tempering of small watch springs, the hardening of cutlery, and the annealing of dies. In 
fact there isn't a thing that a steel worker would want to know that isn't included. It is the 
standard book on selecting, hardening, and tempering all grades of steel. Among the 
chapter headings might be mentioned the following subjects: Introduction; the workman; 
steel ; methods of heating ; heating tool steel ; forging ; annealing ; hardening baths ; baths 
for hardening; hardening steel; drawing the temper after hardening; examples of hard- 
ening; pack hardening; case hardening; spring tempering; making tools of machine steel; 
special steels; steel for various tools; causes of trouble; high speed steels, etc. 366 pages. 
Very fully illustrated. 3rd Edition. Price $2.50 

HARDENING, TEMPERING, ANNEALING, AND FORGING OF STEEL. By J. V. 

WOODWORTH. 

A new work treating in a clear, concise manner all modern processes for the heating, annealing 
forging, welding, hardening, and tempering of steel, making it a book of great practical value 
to the metal-working mechanic in general, with special directions for the successful hardening 
and tempering of all steel tools used in the arts, including milling cutters, taps, thread dies, 
reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches and dies, and all kinds of sheet metal 
working tools, shear blades, saws, fine cutlery, and metal cutting tools of all description, as 
well as for all implements of steel both large and small. In this work the simplest and most 
satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are given. 

The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be adapted are concisely presented, and their 
treatment for working under different conditions explained, also the special methods for the 
hardening and tempering of special brands. 

A chapter devoted to the different processes for Case-hardening is also included, and special 
reference made to the adoption of machinery steel for tools of various kinds. 4th Edition. 288 
pages. 201 Illustrations. Price $2.60 

28 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD. PRACTICAL BOOKS 



TURBINES 

MARINE STEAM TURBINES. By Dr. G. Bauer and O. Lasche. Assisted by 
E. Ludwig and H. Vogel. Translated from the German and edited by M. G. S. 
Swallow. 

This work forms a supplementary volume to the book entitled "Marine Engines and Boilers." 
The authors of this book, Dr. G. Bauer and O. Lasche, may be regarded as the leading 
authorities on turbine construction. 

The book is essentially practical and discusses turbines in which the full expansion of steam 
passes through a niunber of separate tiu-bines arranged for driving two or more shafts, as 
in the Parsons system, and turbines in which the complete expansion of steam from inlet 
to exhaust pressure occurs in a turbine on one shaft, as in the case of the Curtis machines. 
It will enable a designer to carry out all the ordinary calculations necessary for the con- 
struction of steam tvu-bines, hence it fills a want which is hardly met by larger and more 
theoretical works. 

Numerous tables, curves and diagrams will be found, which explain with remarkable lucidity 
the reason why turbine blades are designed as they are, the course which steam takes through 
turbines of various types, the thermodynamics of steam turbine calculation, the influence 
of vacuum on steam consumption of steam turbines, etc. In a word, the very information 
which a designer and builder of steam turbines most requires. The book is divided into 
parts as follows: 1. Introduction. 2. General remarks on the design of a turbine installa- 
tion. 3. The calculation of steam turbines. 4. Tm-bine design. 5. Shafting and pro- 
pellers. 6. Condensing plant. 7. Arrangement of tiu'bines. 8. General remarks on the 
arrangement of steam turbines in steamers. 9. Turbine-driven avixiliaries. 10. Tables. 
Large octavo. 214 pages. Fully illustrated and containing 18 tables. Including an entropy 
chart. Price, net $8.60 

WATCH MAKING 

WATCHMAKER'S HANDBOOK. By Claudius Saunier. 

This famous work has now reached its seventh edition and there is no work issued that can 
compare to it for clearness and completeness. It contains 498 pages and is intended as a 
workshop companion for those engaged in Watch-making and allied Mechanical Arts, Nearly 
250 engravings and fourteen plates are included. Price ... .... $3.00 



39 



